Part 7

Trachyte (derived from τραχυς, rough), having a coarse, cellular appearance, and a rough and gritty feel, belongs to the class of volcanic rocks. The eruptions of trachyte seem to have commenced towards the middle of the Tertiary period, and to have continued up to its close. The trachytes present considerable analogy in their composition to the felspathic porphyries, but their mineralogical characters are different. Their texture is porous; they form a white, grey, black, sometimes yellowish matrix, in which, as a rule, felspar predominates, together with disseminated crystals of felspar, some hornblende or augite, and dark-coloured mica. In its external appearance trachyte is very variable. It forms the three most elevated mountain ranges of Central France; the groups of Cantal and Mont Dore, and the chain of the Velay (Puy-de-Dôme).

For full information in reference to the rocks and geology of this part of France, the reader is referred to the masterly work on “The Geology and Extinct Volcanoes of Central France,” by G. Poulett Scrope, 2nd edition, 1858.

The igneous group of Cantal may be described as a series of lofty summits, ranged around a large cavity, which was at one period probably a volcanic crater, the circular base of which occupies an area of nearly fifteen leagues in diameter. The strictly trachytic portion of the group rises in the centre, and is composed of high mountains, throwing off spurs, which gradually decrease in height, and terminate in plateaux more or less inclined. These central mountains attain a height varying between 4,500 and 5,500 feet above the level of the sea. A scaly or schistose variety of trachyte, called phonolite, or clinkstone (from the ringing metallic sound it emits when struck with the hammer), with an unusual proportion of felspar, or, according to Gmelin, composed of felspar and zeolite, forms the steep trachytic escarpments at the centre, which enclose the principal valleys; their abrupt peaks giving a remarkably picturesque appearance to the landscape. In the engraving on p. 40 (Fig. 4) the slaty, laminated character of the clinkstone is well represented in one of the phonolitic peaks of the Cantal group. The group at Mont Dore consists of seven or eight rocky summits, occupying a circuit of about five leagues in diameter. The massive trachytic rock, of which this mountainous mass is chiefly formed, has an average thickness of 1,200 to 2,600 feet; comprehending over that range prodigious layers of scoriæ, pumiceous conglomerates, and detritus, interstratified with beds of trachyte and basalt, bearing the signs of an igneous origin, tufa forming the base; and between them occur layers of lignite, or imperfectly mineralised woody fibre, the whole being superimposed on a primitive plateau of about 3,250 feet in height. Scored and furrowed out by deep valleys, the viscous mass was gradually upheaved, until in the needle-like Pic de Sancy (PLATE I.), a pyramidal rock of porphyritic trachyte, which is the loftiest point of Mont Dore, it attains the height of 6,258 feet. The Pic de Sancy, represented on page 40 (Fig. 4), gives an excellent idea of the general appearance of the trachytic mountains of Mont Dore.

Upon the same plateau with Mont Dore, and about seven miles north of its last slopes, the trachytic formation is repeated in four rounded domes--those of Puy-de-Dôme, Sarcouï, Clierzou, and Le Grand Suchet. The Puy-de-Dôme, one of the most remarkable volcanic domes in Auvergne, presents another fine and very striking example of an eruptive trachytic rock. The rock here assumes a peculiar mineral character, which has caused the name of domite to be given to it.

The chain of the Velay forms a zone, composed of independent plateaux and peaks, which forms upon the horizon a long and strangely intersected ridge. The bareness of the mountains, their forms--pointed or rounded, sometimes terminating in scarped plateaux--give to the whole landscape an appearance at once picturesque and characteristic. The peak of Le Mezen, which rises 5,820 feet above the sea, forms the culminating point of the chain. The phonolites of which it consists have been erupted from fissures which present themselves at a great number of points, ranging from north-north-west to south-south-east.

On the banks of the Rhine and in Hungary the trachytic formation presents itself in features identical with those which indicate it in France. In America it is principally represented by some immense cones, superposed in the chain of the Andes; the colossal Chimborazo being one of those trachytic cones.

BASALTIC FORMATIONS.

Basaltic eruptions seem to have occurred during the Secondary and Tertiary periods. Basalt, according to Dr. Daubeny, in its more strict sense, “is composed of an intimate mixture of augite with a zeolitic mineral, which appears to have been formed out of labradorite (felspar of Labrador), by the addition of water--the presence of water being in all zeolites the cause of that bubbling-up under the blow-pipe to which they owe their appellation.” M. Delesse and other mineralogists are of opinion that the idea of augite being the prevailing mineral in basalt, must be abandoned; and that although its presence gives the rock its distinctive character, as compared with trachytic and most other trap rocks, still the principal element in their composition is felspar. Basalt, a lava consisting essentially of augite, labradorite (or nepheline) and magnetic iron-ore is the rock which predominates in this formation. It contains a smaller quantity of silica than the trachyte, and a larger proportion of lime and magnesia. Hence, independent of the iron in its composition, it is heavier in proportion, as it contains more or less silica. Some varieties of basalt contain very large quantities of olivine, a mineral of an olive-green colour, with a chemical composition differing but slightly from serpentine. Both basalts and trachyte contain more soda and less silica in their composition than granites; some of the basalts are highly fusible, the alkaline matter and lime in their composition acting as a flux to the silica. There are examples of basalt existing in well-defined flows, which still adhere to craters visible at the present day, and with regard to the igneous origin of which there can be no doubt. One of the most striking examples of a basaltic cone is furnished by the mountain or crater of La Coupe d’Ayzac, in the Vivarais, in the south of France. PLATE II., on the opposite page, gives an accurate representation of this curious basaltic flow. The remnants of the stream of liquefied basalt which once flowed down the flank of the hill may still be seen adhering in vast masses to the granite rocks on both sides of a narrow valley where the river Volant has cut across the lava and left a pavement or causeway, forming an assemblage of upright prismatic columns, fitted together with geometrical symmetry; the whole resting on a base of gneiss. Basaltic eruptions sometimes form a plateau, as represented in Fig. 5, where the process of formation is shown theoretically and in a manner which renders further explanation unnecessary. Many of these basaltic table-lands form plateaux of very considerable extent and thickness; others form fragments of the same, more or less dislocated; others, again, present themselves in isolated knolls, far removed from similar formations. In short, basaltic rocks present themselves in veins or dykes, more or less, in most countries, of which Central France and the banks of the Rhine offer many striking examples. These veins present very evident proofs that the matter has been introduced from below, and in a manner which could only result from injection from the interior to the exterior of the earth. Such are the proofs presented by the basaltic veins of Villeneuve-de-Berg, which terminate in slender filaments, sometimes bifurcated, which gradually lose themselves in the rock which they traverse. In several parts of the north of Ireland, chalk-formations with flints are traversed by basaltic dykes, the chalk being converted into granular marble near the basalt, the change sometimes extending eight or ten feet from the wall of the dyke, and being greatest near the surface of contact. In the Island of Rathlin, the walls of basalt traverse the chalk in three veins or dykes; the central one a foot thick, that on the right twenty feet, and on the left thirty-three feet thick, and all, according to Buckland and Conybeare, within the breadth of ninety feet.

“Volcanoes,” 2nd ed.

One of the most striking characteristics of basalt is the prismatic and columnar structure which it often assumes; the lava being homogeneous and of very fine grain, the laws which determine the direction of the fissures or divisional planes consolidated from a molten to a solid state, become here very manifest--these are always at right angles to the surfaces of the rock through which the heat of the fused mass escaped. The basaltic rocks have been at all times remarkable for this picturesque arrangement of their parts. They usually present columns of regular prisms, having generally six, often five, and sometimes four, seven, or even three sides, whose disposition is always perpendicular to the cooling surfaces. These are often divided transversely, as in Fig. 6, at nearly equal distances, like the joints of a wall, composed of regularly arranged, equal-sided pieces adhering together, and frequently extending over a more or less considerable space. The name of Giant’s Causeway has been given, from time immemorial, to these curious columnar structures of basalt. In France, in the Vivarais and in the Velay, there are many such basaltic causeways. That of which Fig. 7 is a sketch lies on the banks of the river Volant, where it flows into the Ardèche. Ireland has always been celebrated for its Giant’s Causeway, which extends over the whole of the northern part of Antrim, covering all the pre-existing strata of Chalk, Greensand, and Permian formations; the prismatic columns extend for miles along the cliffs, projecting into the sea at the point specially designated the Giant’s Causeway.

These columnar formations vary considerably in length and diameter. McCulloch mentions some in Skye, which “are about four hundred feet high; others in Morven not exceeding an inch (vol. ii. p. 137). In diameter those of Ailsa Craig measure nine feet, and those of Morven an inch or less.” Fingal’s Cave, in the Isle of Staffa, is renowned among basaltic rocks, although it was scarcely known on the mainland a century ago, when Sir Joseph Banks heard of it accidentally, and was the first to visit and describe it. Fingal’s Cave has been hollowed out, by the sea, through a gallery of immense prismatic columns of trap, which are continually beaten by the waves. The columns are usually upright, but sometimes they are curved and slightly inclined. Fig. 8 is a view of the basaltic grotto of Staffa.

Grottoes are sometimes formed by basaltic eruptions on land, followed by their separation into regular columns. The Grotto of Cheeses, at Bertrich-Baden, between Trèves and Coblentz, is a remarkable example of this kind, being so called because its columns are formed of round, and usually flattened, stones placed one above the other in such a manner as to resemble a pile of cheeses.

If we consider that in basalt-flows the lower part is compact, and often divided into prismatic columns, while the upper part is porous, cellular, scoriaceous, and irregularly divided--that the points of separation on which they rest are small beds presenting fragments of the porous stony concretions known under the name of Lapilli--that the lower portions of these masses present a multitude of points which penetrate the rocks on which they repose, thereby denoting that some fluid matter had moulded itself into its crevices--that the neighbouring rocks are often calcined to a considerable thickness, and the included vegetable remains carbonised--no doubt can exist as to the igneous origin of basaltic rocks. When it reached the surface through certain openings, the fluid basalt spread itself, flowing, as it were, over the horizontal surface of the ground; for if it had flowed upon inclined surfaces it could not have preserved the uniform surface and constant thickness which it generally exhibits.

VOLCANIC OR LAVA FORMATIONS.

The lava formations comprehend both extinct and active volcanoes. “The term,” says Lyell, “has a somewhat vague signification, having been applied to all melted matter observed to flow in streams from volcanic vents. When this matter consolidates in the open air, the upper part is usually scoriaceous, and the mass becomes more and more stony as we descend, or in proportion as it has consolidated more slowly and under greater pressure.”

“Elements of Geology,” p. 596.

The formation of extinct volcanoes is represented in France by the volcanoes situated in the ancient provinces of Auvergne, Velay, and the Vivarais, but principally by nearly seventy volcanic cones of various sizes and of the height of from 500 to 1,000 feet, composed of loose scoriæ, lava, and pozzuolana, arranged upon a granitic table-land, about twelve miles wide, which overlooks the town of Clermont-Ferrand, and which seem to have been produced along a longitudinal fracture in the earth’s crust, running in a direction from north to south. It is a range of volcanic hills, the “chain of Puys” nearly twenty miles in length, by two in breadth. By its cellular and porous structure, which is also granular and crystalline, the felspathic or pyroxenic lava which flowed from these volcanoes is readily distinguishable from the analogous lavas which belong to the basaltic or trachytic formations. Their surface is irregular, and bristles with asperities, formed by heaped-up angular blocks.

The volcanoes of the chain of Puys, represented on opposite page (PL. III.) are so perfectly preserved, their lava is so frequently superposed on sheets of basalt, and presents a composition and texture so distinct, that there is no difficulty in establishing the fact that they are posterior to the basaltic formation, and of very recent age. Nevertheless, they do not appear to belong to the historic ages, for no tradition attests their eruption. Lyell places these eruptions in the Lower Miocene period, and their greatest activity in the Upper Miocene and Pliocene eras. “Extinct quadrupeds of those eras,” he says, “belonging to the genera mastodon, rhinoceros, and others, were buried in ashes and beds of alluvial sand and gravel, which owe their preservation to overspreading sheets of lava.”

Ibid, p. 677.

All volcanic phenomena can be explained by the theory we have already indicated, of fractures in the solid crust of the globe resulting from its cooling. The various phenomena which existing volcanoes present to us are, as Humboldt has said, “the result of every action exercised by the interior of a planet on its external crust.” We designate as volcanoes all conduits which establish a permanent communication between the interior of the earth and its surface--a conduit which gives passage at intervals to eruptions of lava, and in Fig. 9 we have represented, in an ideal section, the geological mode of action of volcanic eruptions. The volcanoes on the surface of the globe, known to be in an occasional state of activity, number about three hundred, and these may be divided into two classes: the isolated or central, and the linear or those volcanoes which belong to a series.

“Cosmos,” vol. i., p. 25. Bohn.

“Cosmos,” vol. i., p. 237.

The first are active volcanoes, around which there may be established many secondary active mouths of eruption, always in connection with some principal crater. The second are disposed like the chimneys of furnaces, along fissures extending over considerable distances. Twenty, thirty, and even a greater number of volcanic cones may rise above one such rent in the earth’s crust, the direction of which will be indicated by their linear course. The Peak of Teneriffe is an instance of a central volcano; the long rampart-like chain of the Andes, presents, from the south of Chili to the north-west coast of America, one of the grandest instances of a continental volcanic chain; the remarkable range of volcanoes in the province of Quito belong to the latter class. Darwin relates that on the 19th of March, 1835, the attention of a sentry was called to something like a large star which gradually increased in size till about three o’clock, when it presented a very magnificent spectacle. “By the aid of a glass, dark objects, in constant succession, were seen in the midst of a great glare of red light, to be thrown up and to fall down. The light was sufficient to cast on the water a long bright reflection--it was the volcano of Osorno in action.” Mr. Darwin was afterwards assured that Aconcagua, in Chili, 480 miles to the north, was in action on the same night, and that the great eruption of Coseguina (2,700 miles north of Aconcagua), accompanied by an earthquake felt over 1,000 miles, also occurred within six hours of this same time; and yet Coseguina had been dormant for six-and-twenty years, and Aconcagua most rarely shows any signs of action. It is also stated by Professor Dove that in the year 1835 the ashes discharged from the mountain of Coseguina were carried 700 miles, and that the roaring noise of the eruption was heard at San Salvador, a distance of 1,000 miles.

Darwin’s “Journal,” p. 291, 2nd edition.

In the sea the series of volcanoes show themselves in groups of islands disposed in longitudinal series.

Among these may be ranged the volcanic series of Sunda, which, according to the accounts of the matter ejected and the violence of the eruptions, seem to be among the most remarkable on the globe; the series of the Moluccas and of the Philippines; those of Japan; of the Marianne Islands; of Chili; of the double series of volcanic summits near Quito, those of the Antilles, Guatemala, and Mexico.

Among the central, or isolated volcanoes, we may class those of the Lipari Islands, which have Stromboli, in permanent activity, for their centre; Etna, Vesuvius, the volcanoes of the Azores, of the Canaries, of the Cape de Verde, of the Galapagos Islands, the Sandwich Islands, the Marquesas, the Society Islands, the Friendly Islands, Bourbon, and, finally, Ararat.

The mouths of volcanic chimneys are, almost always, situated near the summit of a more or less isolated conical mountain; they usually consist of an opening in the form of a funnel, which is called the crater, and which descends into the interior of the volcanic chimney. But in the course of ages the crater becomes extended and enlarged, until, in some of the older volcanoes, it has attained almost incredible dimensions. In 1822 the crater of Vesuvius was 2,000 feet deep, and of a very considerable circumference. The crater of Kilauea, in the Sandwich Islands group, is an immense chasm 1,000 feet deep, with an outer circle no less than from two to three miles in diameter, in which lava is usually seen, Mr. Dana tells us, to boil up at the bottom of a lake, the level of which varies continually according to the active or quiescent state of the volcano. The cone which supports these craters, and which is designated the cone of ejection, is composed for the most part of lava or scoriæ, the products of eruption. Many volcanoes consist only of a cone of scoriæ. Such is that of Barren Isle, in the Bay of Bengal. Others, on the contrary, present a very small cone, notwithstanding the considerable height of the volcanic chain. As an example we may mention the new crater of Vesuvius, which was produced in 1829 within the former crater (Fig. 10).