Part 25

Varieties for the South.--In the South, where the tomato is handled as a short-season crop, certain varieties are found to give best results in certain districts. Along the Atlantic seaboard the growers of tomatoes use such sorts as Beauty, Stone, Perfection, Aristocrat, and Paragon. In the truck regions of eastern Texas the Dwarf Champion is perhaps more universally grown than any other variety, but in this same region the Success is found to be a more profitable late-season or fall crop than the Champion.

Forcing Tomatoes.--In the forcing of plants, which means the growing of a plant out of its natural season and in an artificial environment, the first requirement for success is a properly constructed protective structure or greenhouse. Because of the tropical nature of the tomato more than ordinary provisions must be made in order to meet the demands of this crop. In the forcing of most vegetables a lower temperature and benches without bottom heat are satisfactory, but with the tomato the house must be piped so as to maintain a minimum temperature of 65 degrees F., and the benches should be so constructed as to admit of applying bottom heat.

Type of Greenhouse.--The type of house that is generally employed for the forcing of tomatoes is the even-span or a three-fourths span house. If the even-span house is used it is preferable to have the ridge running north and south; if the three-fourths span house is employed it is best to have the long side sloping toward the south. The tomato when grown in the forcing house, because of its long fruiting season and the fact that its clusters of fruit are borne one above the other, requires a considerable amount of head room. Low houses are therefore not desirable in the production of this crop. The side walls of a house designed for the forcing of tomatoes should be at least 4 feet in height, and the distance from the top of the middle bench to the ridge of the house should be at least 10 feet.

Soil.--The soil for the production of this crop should be well decomposed loam, made, if possible, from sods from an old pasture, the soil of which is a rather light clay loam or a heavy sandy loam. With this should be incorporated about one-fourth its bulk of well-rotted stable manure, preferably cow manure. By composting these two materials for from four to six months before they are required for use a very satisfactory soil for the forcing of tomatoes will result. Care should be exercised to allow the soil that is used for forcing tomatoes to be frozen each year. The depth of soil required for the successful growth of tomatoes is considerably more than that employed for roses, although the temperature and other requirements are very similar to those demanded by the rose. While 4 or 5 inches of soil are adequate to produce a crop of roses, the soil for tomatoes should be at least 6 or 8 inches in depth; 8 inches is preferable. It is not well to allow the soil to remain in the greenhouse longer than a single season. It becomes somewhat exhausted and is likely to become infested with injurious forms of life, particularly nematodes, which cause root-knots upon the tomato plants, thus defeating the work of the gardener. This trouble, however, can be easily overcome by subjecting the soil to freezing.

Seedling Plants.--Two types of plants are used for forcing purposes--seedling plants and cutting plants. The former are, of course, seedlings grown from seed especially sown for the purpose of raising plants to be grown in a greenhouse. It is customary in the latitude of New York and northward to sow the seed for a forcing crop of tomatoes in the month of August. The young seedling plants, as soon as they develop the first true leaves, are then transplanted from the seed bed to small pots, preferably 3-inch pots. They are planted deeply at this time and are kept growing rapidly but not sufficiently to produce a soft, succulent growth. As soon as the 3-inch pots are filled with roots the plants are shifted to 4-inch pots, and when the plants have attained a height of 12 or 15 inches, and have developed their first blossoms, they are usually placed on the benches of the greenhouse, where they are to produce their crop. The plants are then set 15 or 18 inches apart each way in a soil prepared as previously described.

Cutting Plants.--Cuttings should be taken from strong, healthy, vigorous-growing plants in the field, and placed in the cutting bed about the last of August, where they will quickly take root. As soon as the roots have developed to a length of from one-half to 1 inch the young plants are shifted to 3 or 4 inch pots, where they are allowed to develop until the blossom buds are well formed or the blossoms have expanded, when they should be planted on the bench where they are to mature their crop, in like manner as noted for seedling plants.

Pollination.--In the field, where the tomato plants are exposed to the action of wind and to the visits of insects, no special attention is necessary in order to secure the pollination of the flowers and the setting of the fruits. Under the conditions existing in a greenhouse, however, it is necessary to artificially pollinate the flowers of the tomato; otherwise only a very small percentage of fruits will set and the object of the work will be defeated. It is therefore necessary to allow the temperature of the house to become quite high in the middle of the day on bright sunshiny days while the plants are in bloom, and to pass through the house at this time with a little stick, 18 inches or 2 feet in length, with which to strike the supporting strings or wires and thus to set the plants in motion and liberate the pollen and cause it to fertilize the flowers. A more satisfactory way, however, is to use a watch glass, 1-1/4 or 1-12 inches in diameter, embedded in putty, at the end of a handle composed of a light material, preferably white pine, which shall be 12 or 18 inches long. Grasp this spatula in the left hand and, with a light pine stick of equal length in the right hand, pass through the house, tapping each open flower lightly with the wand, at the same time holding the watch glass under the flowers to catch the pollen. Before removing the watch glass from this position lift it sufficiently to cause the stigma of the flower to dip into the pollen contained in the glass. By carefully going through the house from day to day during the blooming period nearly 90 per cent of the blossoms which develop can be caused to set. During dark, cloudy, stormy weather, however, a smaller percentage of plants will be fertilized than during bright, comparatively dry weather. The conditions in the greenhouse can not be modified so as to entirely overcome the adverse conditions existing on the outside, although with care much can be done in this direction.

Manuring.--It is desirable to keep plants of the tomato which are designed for forcing growing at a moderately rapid rate throughout the whole forcing period. Growth should be strong and robust at all times, yet slow enough to produce close-jointed plants which bear their fruit clusters at near intervals. There is considerable difference in varieties of tomatoes in this respect, and those which naturally bear their fruit clusters close together should be selected for forcing purposes. The manuring of the plants should, therefore, take a form which will be conducive to this strong, vigorous growth, yet not sufficiently heavy to produce plants which run to wood at the expense of fruit bearing.

Ventilating and Watering.--If careful attention is given to keeping the plants in a healthy condition by never allowing them to suffer from overwatering or from becoming too dry, and if sufficient ventilation is given without allowing draughts of cold air upon the plants, much can be done to prevent the development of mildew. If the plants are to be sprayed it should be done once a week or once in ten days, and then only in the mornings of bright days. Ordinarily, however, the atmosphere of the house should be kept dry rather than moist, as a very moist atmosphere is liable to produce a soft, succulent growth, which brings on a disease known to gardeners as oedema. This, however, can be prevented by care in keeping the house rather dry. The temperature of the house, too, should not be allowed to fluctuate through too wide a range. The night temperature for tomatoes should range between 65° and 68° F., while the day temperature should run from 70° to 80° F.

Varieties for Forcing.--The comparatively limited use of tomatoes for forcing purposes in this country has not resulted in the development of many sorts especially suited for this purpose. The Lorillard is the one American sort which is now almost exclusively confined to this use, and it is perhaps more generally cultivated in forcing houses than any other single variety.

The Tomato as a Field Crop for Canneries.--Owing to the fact that in canned tomatoes it is difficult for the average consumer to note any deficiencies in the appearance of the original fruit, many labor under the delusion that any variety will answer for this purpose. This is a mistaken idea, as quality in canned goods is now an important factor, and it is quite as necessary that a good quality of product should be used for canning as for growing for the early or general market, although from the field side it is natural that tonnage should be a primary consideration.

In the matter of varieties, as in the case of early tomatoes, too much dependence should not be placed upon the name or upon the fact that a neighboring farmer secures good results from a given variety. There are so many variations in the character of soils, even in the same locality, which exert an influence upon the size and quality of crop that the best variety is usually one that is, in part at least, developed by the individual grower. The main point is to select varieties that produce large, smooth, solid fruits, which do not remain green or crack on the shaded side near the stem. Those which possess size as their chief characteristic are frequently of poor quality, as they are likely to possess large seed cavities and to ripen unevenly.

The conditions in some sections are such as to prevent the canners from making as much distinction between good and poor varieties as they would like. Canneries are in a measure obliged to receive all that come, unless they can control absolutely the land upon which the crop is grown. The variation in the quality of the crops of different farmers will make a difference of from 25 to 40 cans on a ton of fruit, or from 6 to 10 per cent--a very considerable item. In good seasons and with good fruit 400 cans may be regarded as the maximum number to be derived from a ton, though late in the season, and with poor varieties, as already stated, the pack from a ton is very much less. The interests of the grower and the canner are really identical in this regard. An improvement in the quality of the fruit will result in an improvement of the canned product and a consequent increase in the price of both the raw and manufactured products. Less expense is involved in growing suitable plants for cannery purposes than for other crops. This is due to the fact that earliness is not so important a factor as it is in the market garden crop.

Fertilizing and Cultivating the Soil.--In manuring and fertilizing, the character of the crop and the season of its growth should be remembered. Hence, recommendations that were made for an early crop do not apply in all cases except perhaps on the poorer classes of soils. In the first place, the plants are not put in the soil until summer, when the conditions are most favorable for the rapid change of organic forms of nitrogen into nitrates, and thus, if the soil has been manured or is naturally rich in vegetable matter, the additional application of nitrogen in immediately available forms is not so important. In the second place, the object of the growth is not early maturity, but the largest yield of mature fruit.

Setting and Cultivating the Plants.--The plants should be set from 4 to 4-1/2 feet apart each way and cultivation should begin immediately. The first cultivation should be deep, in order to conserve the moisture, and each subsequent cultivation shallower, in order not to destroy the roots, which will fill the soil as soon as the plants reach maturity. The crop in good seasons should begin to ripen in August, and picking will continue from that time until the last of September.

Cost, Yield, and Value of Crop.--The cost of production per acre is much less for fruit for canning than in the case of early tomatoes, the chief difference being in the production of the plants. The several items may be classified as follows:

Cost of growing an acre of tomatoes for canning:

Plants $ 2.00 Manures and fertilizers 8.00 Preparation of land, setting plants and cultivation 8.00 Picking and carting 10.00 _____ Total $28.00

The yield, as in the case of the early tomatoes, varies widely, ranging from 5 to as high as 20 tons per acre, even 30 tons per acre having been reported in exceptional cases, although the average for a series of years on average land will probably be under 8 tons. Where all conditions are carefully observed, 20-ton yields are frequently obtained, and at the prices received at the cannery, ranging from $5 to $7.50 per ton, according to the locality, the crop is a fairly good one and the net profits are quite as large as for other field crops.

TURNIPS.

A great variety of turnips is grown throughout temperate climates, some of which being coarse in texture are used as food for farm animals while other varieties are raised as table vegetables. There is considerable variation in the color, flavor, and composition of the turnip, the yellow-fleshed sorts as a group being commonly distinguished from the white by the name "Swedes" or "ruta-bagas." In the summer the early white varieties are usually preferred in spite of the fact that they are more watery, while in winter the yellow turnips are more commonly used.

The turnip requires a rich soil, and may be grown either as an early or a late crop. For an early crop, sow the seeds in drills 12 to 18 inches apart as early in the spring as the condition of the soil will permit. Two pounds of seed are required to plant an acre. After the plants appear, thin to about 3 inches. The roots will be ready for use before hot weather. For late turnips the seeds are usually sown broadcast on land from which some early crop has been removed, generally during July or August, but later in the South. Turnips are quite hardy, and the roots need not be gathered until after several frosts. Turnips may be stored in a cellar or buried in a pit outside. Before storing, the tops should be removed.--(F. B. 255, 295; U. Id. E. S. 10; Mich. E. S. 20.)

VEGETABLE MARROW.

The so-called vegetable marrows are a valuable product and closely allied to the pumpkin, both as to species and habit of growth, the principal difference being that the vegetable marrows are used while quite young and tender, and may be baked and served very much the same as sweet potatoes. The vegetable marrows should receive thorough cultivation in order that a tender product may be secured, and should be gathered while the outside skin is still so tender that it may easily be broken by the finger nail. The flesh is either boiled and mashed or baked in the oven and served with butter while hot.--(F. B. 255; Oreg. E. S. B. 74.)

Quantity of Seeds or Number of Plants Required for a Row 100 Feet in Length, with Distances to Plant, Times for Planting, and Period Required for Production of Crop.

Brackets indicate that a late or second crop may be planted the same season.

--------------------+---------------+------------------------------------------+-------------+-----------------------------------------------+-----------------+ | | Distance for plants to stand---- | | Time of planting in open ground. | | | Seeds or +---------------------------+--------------+ Depth +------------------------+----------------------+ Ready for use | | plants | Rows apart. | | of | | | after planting. | Kind of vegetable. | required +-------------+-------------+ Plants | planting. | South | North | | | for 100 feet | Horse | Hand | apart | | | | | | of row. | cultivation.| cultivation.| in rows. | | | | | --------------------+---------------+-------------+-------------+--------------+-------------+------------------------+----------------------+-----------------+ Artichoke, Globe | 1/2 ounce | 3 to 4 ft.| 2 to 3 ft. | 2 to 3 ft. | 1 to 2 in. | Spring | Early spring | 15 months. | Artichoke, Jerusalem| 2 qts. tubers | 3 to 4 ft.| 1 to 2 ft. | 1 to 2 ft. | 2 to 3 in. | Spring | Early spring | 6 to 8 months. | Asparagus, seed | 1 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 1 to 2 ft. | 3 to 5 in. | 1 to 2 in. | Autumn or early spring | Early spring | 3 to 4 years. | Asparagus, plants |60 to 80 plants| 3 to 5 ft.| 12 to 24 in.| 15 to 20 in. | 3 to 5 in. | Autumn or early spring | Early spring | 1 to 3 years. | Beans, bush | 1 pint | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 5 or 8 to ft.| 1/2 to 2 in.| February to April. | | | | | | | | | [August to September.]| April to July | 40 to 65 days. | Beans, pole | 1/2 pint | 3 to 4 ft.| 3 to 4 ft. | 3 to 4 ft. | 1 to 2 in. | Late spring | May and June | 50 to 80 days. | Beets | 2 ounces | 24 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in.| 5 or 6 to ft.| 1 to 2 in. | February to April. | | | | | | | | | [August to September.]| April to August | 60 to 80 days. | Brussels sprouts | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 24 to 30 in.| 16 to 24 in. | 1/2 in. | January to July | May and June | 90 to 120 days. | Cabbage, early | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 24 to 30 in.| 12 to 18 in. | 1/2 in. | October to December | March and April. | | | | | | | | | (Start in hotbed | | | | | | | | | during February) | 90 to 130 days. | Cabbage, late | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 40 in.| 24 to 36 in.| 16 to 24 in. | 1/2 in. | June and July | May and June | 90 to 120 days. | Cardoon | 1/2 ounce | 3 ft. | 2 ft. | 12 to 18 in. | 1 to 2 in. | Early spring | April and May | 5 to 6 months. | Carrot | 1 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 6 or 7 to ft.| 1/2 in. | March and April. | | | | | | | | | [September] | April to June | 75 to 110 days. | Cauliflower | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 24 to 30 in.| 14 to 18 in. | 1/2 in. | January and February. | April to June. | | | | | | | | | (Start in hotbed | | | | | | | | | during February | | | | | | | | | or March) | 100 to 130 days.| Celeriac | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 4 or 5 to ft.| 1/2 in. | Late spring | May and June. | | | | | | | | | (Start in cold | | | | | | | | | frame during April) | 100 to 150 days.| Celery | 1/4 ounce | 3 to 6 ft.| 18 to 36 in.| 4 to 8 in. | 1/2 in. | August to October | May and June. (Start | | | | | | | | | in hotbed or cold | | | | | | | | | frame during March | | | | | | | | | or April) | 120 to 150 days.| Chervil | 1 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 3 or 4 to ft.| 1 in. | Autumn | Autumn | 1 year. | Chicory | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 4 or 5 to ft.| 1/2 in. | March and April | May and June | 5 to 6 months. | Citron | 1 ounce | 8 to 10 ft.| 8 to 10 ft.| 8 to 10 ft. | 1 to 2 in. | March and April | May and June | 100 to 130 days.| Collards | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 24 to 30 in.| 14 to 18 in. | 1/2 in. | May and June | Late spring | 100 to 120 days.| Corn salad | 2 ounces | 30 in. | 12 to 18 in.| 5 or 6 to ft.| 1/2 to 1 in.| January and February. | | | | | | | | | [September and October]| March to September | 60 days. | Corn, sweet | 1/4 pint | 36 to 42 in.| 30 to 36 in.| 30 to 36 in. | 1 to 2 in. | February to April | May to July | 60 to 100 days. | Cress, upland | 1/2 ounce | 30 in. | 12 to 18 in.| 4 or 5 to ft.| 1/2 to 1 in.| January and February. | March to May | | | | | | | | (Autumn) | [September] | 30 to 40 days. | Cress, water | 1/2 ounce | Broadcast | | | On surface | Early spring | April to September | 60 to 70 days. | Cucumber | 1/2 ounce | 4 to 6 ft.| 4 to 6 ft. | 4 to 6 ft. | 1 to 2 in. | February and March. | | | | | | | | | [September] | April to July | 60 to 80 days. | Dandelion | 1/4 ounce | 30 in. | 18 to 24 in.| 8 to 12 in. | 1/2 in. | Early spring or autumns| Early spring | 6 to 12 months. | Eggplant | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 24 to 30 in.| 18 to 24 in. | 1/2 to 1 in.| February to April | April and May. (Start| | | | | | | | | in hotbed during | 100 to 140 days.| | | | | | | | March) | Endive | 1 ounce | 30 in. | 18 in. | 8 to 12 in. | 1/2 to 1 in.| February to April | April | 90 to 180 days.| Horse-radish | 70 roots | 30 to 40 in.| 24 to 30 in.| 14 to 20 in. | 3 to 4 in. | Early spring | Early spring | 1 to 2 years| Kale or borecole | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 18 to 24 in. | 1/2 in. | October to February | August and September.| | | | | | | | | [March and April] | 90 to 120 days.| Kohl-rabi | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 4 to 8 in. | 1/2 in. | September to March | March to May | 60 to 80 days.| Leek | 1/2 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 14 to 20 in.| 4 to 8 in | 1 in. | May to September | March to May | 60 to 80 days.| Lettuce | 1/2 ounce | 30 in | 12 to 18 in.| 4 to 6 in | 1/2 in. | September to March | March to September | 120 to 180 days.| Melon, muskmelon | 1/2 ounce | 6 to 8 ft. | 6 to 8 ft.| Hills 6 ft. | 1 to 2 in. | February to April | April to June (Start | | | | | | | | | early plants in | | | | | | | | | hotbed during March)| 120 to 150 days.| Melon, watermelon | 1 ounce | 8 to 12 ft.| 8 to 12 ft.| Hills 10 ft. | 1 to 2 in. | March to May | May and June | 100 to 120 days.| Mustard | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in.| 4 or 5 to ft.| 1/4 in. | Autumn or early spring | March to May. | 60 to 90 days. | | | | | | | | [September] | | New Zealand spinach | 1 ounce | 36 in. | 24 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in. | 1 to 2 in. | Early Spring | Early spring | 60 to 100 days.| Okra, or gumbo | 2 ounces | 4 to 5 ft. | 3 to 4 ft.| 24 to 30 in. | 1 to 2 in. | February to April | May and June | 80 to 140 days.| Onion, seed | 1 ounce | 24 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in.| 4 or 5 to ft.| 1/2 to 1 in.| October to March | April and May | 130 to 150 days.| Onion, sets | 1 qt. of sets.| 24 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in.| 4 or 5 to ft.| 1 to 2 in. | Early spring | Autumn and February | | | | | | | | | to May | 90 to 120 days.| Parsley | 1/4 ounce | 24 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in.| 3 to 6 in. | 1/8 in. | September to May | September and early | 90 to 120 days.| | | | | | | | spring | | Parsnip | 1/2 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 5 or 6 to ft.| 1/2 to 1 in.| | April and May | 125 to 160 days.| Peas | 1 to 2 pints. | 3 to 4 ft. | 30 to 36 in.| 15 to ft. | 2 to 3 in. | September to April | March to June | 40 to 80 days. | Pepper | 1/2 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 15 to 18 in. | 1/2 in. | Early spring | May and June (Start | | | | | | | | | early plants in | | | | | | | | | hotbed during March)| 100 to 140 days.| Physalis | 1/2 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 18 to 24 in. | 1/2 in. | March to May | May and June | 130 to 160 days.| Potato, Irish | 5 lbs. (or 9 | | | | | | | | | bu. per acre) | 30 to 36 in.| 24 to 36 in.| 14 to 18 in. | 4 in. | January to April | March to June | 80 to 140 days.| Potato, sweet | 3 lbs. (or 75 | | | | | | | | | slips) | 3 to 5 ft. | 3 to 5 ft.| 14 in. | 3 in. | April and May | May and June (Start | | | | | | | | | plants in hotbed | | | | | | | | | during April) | 140 to 160 days.| Pumpkin | 1/2 ounce | 8 to 12 ft.| 8 to 12 ft.| Hills 8 to 12| 1 to 2 in. | April and May | May to July | 100 to 140 days.| | | | | ft. | | | spring | | Radish | 1 ounce | 24 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in.| 8 to 12 to ft| 1/2 to 1 in.| September to April | March to September | 20 to 40 days. | Rhubarb, seed | 1/2 ounce | 36 in. | 30 to 36 in.| 6 to 8 in. | 1/2 to 1 in.| | Early Spring | 2 to 4 years. | Rhubarb, plants | 33 plants | 3 to 5 ft. | 3 to 5 ft.| 3 ft. | 2 to 3 in. | | Autumn or early | 1 to 3 years. | | | | | | | | spring | | Ruta-baga | 1/4 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 6 to 8 in. | 1/2 to 1 in.| August and September | May and June | 60 to 80 days. | Salsify | 1 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 18 to 24 in.| 2 to 4 in. | 1/2 to 1 in.| | Early spring | 120 to 180 days.| Spinach | 1 ounce | 30 to 36 in.| 12 to 18 in.| 7 or 8 to ft.| 1 to 2 in. | September to February | September or very | | | | | | | | | early spring | 30 to 60 days. | | Squash, bush | 1/2 ounce | 3 to 4 ft. | 3 to 4 ft.| Hills 3 to 4 | 1 to 2 in. | Spring | April to June | 60 to 80 days. | | | | | ft. | | | | | Squash, late | 1/2 ounce | 7 to 10 ft.| 7 to 10 ft.| Hills 7 to 9 | 1 to 2 in. | Spring | April to June | 120 to 180 days.| | | | | ft. | | | | | Tomato | 1/2 ounce | 3 to 5 ft.| 3 to 4 ft. | 3 ft. | 1/2 to 1 in.| December to March | May and June (Start | | | | | | | | | early plants in | | | | | | | | | hotbed during | 100 to 140 days.| | | | | | | | February and March) | | Turnip | 1/2 ounce | 24 to 36 in | 18 to 24 in | 6 or 7 to ft | 1/4 to 1/2in| August to October | April. | 60 to 80 days. | Vegetable marrow | 1/2 ounce | 8 to 12 ft.| 8 to 12 ft.| Hills 8 to | 1 to 2 in. | Spring | April to June | 110 to 140 days.| | | | | 9 ft. | | | | | --------------------+---------------+-------------+-------------+--------------+-------------+------------------------+----------------------+-----------------+

Average Composition of Succulent Roots.