Section Vi.—Ridge Separating the Nile Valley and the Fayum.

The desert ridge separating the Nile Valley from the Fayûm has, to the north of the Bahr Yusef, an average width of some ten kilometres; further south it narrows, until due east of Gharaq the ridge is barely 2½ kilometres wide. The highest points are situated to the east of Sersena and Qalamsha respectively.

In both these localities the Eocene rocks, consisting of clays alternating with beds of calcareous sandstone and sandy limestone (pp. 39, 40) are overlain by thick deposits of conglomerate and gravel, attaining altitudes of over 100 metres above the cultivated land below. From these summits the slope is usually very gradual on the Nile Valley side but much more rapid towards the Fayûm.

The ridge is cut down, however, to a comparatively low level in four localities; to the north-east of Tamia; to the east of Sêla, where the railway crosses; between Lahûn and Hawara, where the Bahr Yusef canal enters; and to the south of Qalamsha, where along the site of the proposed Wadi Rayan canal the highest point is only some 40 metres above the Gharaq basin and 27 metres above the adjoining Nile Valley cultivation.

One of the most interesting problems connected with the Fayûm may be briefly alluded to here—When did the waters of the Nile first obtain access to the depression?

As will be shown later the Fayûm was occupied by the sea in Pliocene times, when the great gravel accumulations and gypseous deposits were formed. Later the area became dry and denudation of the land surface completed the work of erosion already begun in earlier times.

In Pleistocene times drainage down the Nile Valley appears to have become definitely established and probably the river in the lower part of its course eventually washed up against and broke down the separating barrier of gravel between the Fayûm and the Nile Valley, so that part of its waters obtained access to the depression, formed a lake on the lowest part, and gradually rose until the whole basin, up to the level of the channel connecting it with the Nile Valley, became filled. Every year thousands of tons of sediment were carried in by the floods and spread out on the floor in the shape of a fan. Probably later, as the Nile level fell, the valley and the depression again became disconnected, until the more modern river, with its gradually rising bed, again attained the requisite altitude. In early historic times the alluvial deposits had probably silted up the lake in its southern central part, and when in the XIIth dynasty the district was first taken in hand by Amenemhat I this part of it must have had the character of a huge marsh, nearly surrounded by open water, rapidly deepening towards the north.