The South of France—East Half

Part I.—Paris to Marseilles.

By Sens, Dijon, Lyons, and Avignon, 537 miles.

Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For “London to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through tickets sold at their London office.

MARSEILLES 537 PARIS. Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon, No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or 40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices, distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station. Opposite the station is the H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off the H. Jules César.

Maps.—For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map page 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours; starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 a.m., and arriving next day at 5.33 a.m. From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35 a.m. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 a.m. From Toulon a train starts for Hyères at 9.32 a.m., and arrives at 10.13 a.m. The third-class carriages between Paris and 2

Marseilles are provided with separate compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to Hyères, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible, not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense; moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a most inconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journey from Paris to Hyères can be done in 18¼ hours for £4:13:6.

The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which here joins the Seine. Charenton, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. St. Maurice, pop. 4300, has in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for the cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the Maisons-Alfort, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre resided here some time.

Villeneuve St. George. Melun.

9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop. 1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, a deep river flowing through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther is Montgeron on the Yères, pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of Henri IV. On the other side of the river is the village of Crosne; where on the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English literature.

13¾ m. from Paris is Brunoy, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104½ ft. high. 28 m. S. from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000. Inns: Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St. Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building 3

behind the church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street, in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire. In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8 windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, “Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre, the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent pears—some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi, where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.

Fontainebleau.

PARIS MARSEILLES 37 500 FONTAINEBLEAU pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from the station; but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30 c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène. The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is a square with a garden surrounded with good shops—a bookseller’s with maps, plans, and photographs—souvenirs made from wood of the forest; a good confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.

Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.

Coach Tariff.—The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the forest in the shop opposite.

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the 4

day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10 frs. for the day.

Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following prices:—

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for the first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.

A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first hour 3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.

A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an hour.

Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.

Fontainebleau deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads and footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres. The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval Blanc,” which court forms the main entrance. A small fee is expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not obligatory.

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