Part 32

Galen says that the blite and orache are watery pot-herbs, and almost insipid. Seth, and the other authorities who notice it, agree that the latter is cooling and laxative. The blite is still much used as a pot-herb in Spain and Italy. It is the blitum capitatum.

Xenophon mentions that the ancient Persians lived very much upon cresses, using them as a seasoner to their food. (Cyroped. i, 2.) According to Aëtius and Simeon Seth, they are calefacient and desiccative. Seth calls them aphrodisiacal. On the aphrodisiacal powers of the cresses and rocket, see Section xxxvi.

The sion was probably the sium nodiflorum, procumbent water-parsnip. It was used as a substitute for the cress.

Dioscorides says that the root of the dracunculus, or dragon-herb, is sometimes eaten as a pot-herb, both when boiled and raw. He mentions that the inhabitants of the Balearian Isles mix its root with honey, and use it at their banquets in place of cakes. (ii, 16.) Simeon Seth notices it by the name of tarchon, being a corruption from Tarragona. He calls it flatulent and unwholesome, and says that its leaves only are to be used along with mint and parsley. Galen and Rhases likewise mention it as an article of food. The aron was a plant nearly allied to it, but one which it is difficult to determine accurately.

Mustard, as Hippocrates remarks, is of a hot and purgative nature. Seth says that it promotes the digestion and distribution of the food. Rhases forbids it to be eaten, except along with thick articles of food.

Pliny mentions the ocymum or basil in very unfavorable terms.

The dock, rumex L., is sometimes mentioned as a pot-herb, but does not appear to have been much in use. Horace alludes to its laxative properties. Galen says some women affected with pica and bizarre children eat the oxylapathum (rumex acutus L.) raw, but that it is still less nutritious than the lapathum.

Capers, says Aëtius and Seth, consist of different qualities, as bitterness, which renders them detergent, purgative, and penetrative; acrimony, which makes them calefacient, discutient, and attenuant; and sourness, which renders them astringent. Serapion says that, when pickled with vinegar, they strengthen the stomach and whet the appetite. When pickled with salt, he says, they are bad for the stomach. Galen recommends pickled capers in obstruction of the liver and spleen.

The buglossum, or borage, is frequently mentioned as a herb which, when eaten, imparts gladness to the soul. Ludovicus Nonnius informs us that the Belgians still fancy that it possesses this property, and look upon it as the Homeric nepenthes.

We have had occasion to mention in another place that the ancients were fully persuaded of the aphrodisiacal properties of the eruca, or rocket.

The strychnos has been generally supposed to be some species of solanum. It is mentioned as a pot-herb by Theophrastus, Dioscorides, and Galen, but was in little repute. Several other plants are mentioned as pot-herbs by the dietetical writers, such as fennel, anise, dill, hyssop, and wild thyme, but they are of little importance.

SECT. LXXV.—ON ASPARAGI OR YOUNG SHOOTS.

Blites, lettuces, orachs, mallows, and beets have the plant juicy, but the shoot dry. The turnip, mustard, radish, cress, pellitory, cabbage, and other hot things, have the plant of a dry, but the shoot of a juicy nature. The shoots of the bushy shrubs, both the marsh and garden, and that of the bryony, are stomachic and diuretic, but of little nourishment, yet when digested they are more nutritious than those of pot-herbs. Such also are the shoots of the ground-bay.

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COMMENTARY. See Suidas (in Voce); Galen (de Alim. Facult.); Humelbergius ad Apul. (de Med. Hist. 84.) Our author’s account of the Asparagi is abridged from Galen. He remarks that the young shoots of the cabbage, called cymæ, are particularly tender. Apicius directs them to be prepared with cumin, salt, old wine, and oil; to which pepper, borage, and the like may be added.

On the Asparagi, see Athenæus. (Deipnos. ii.)

The plant now commonly known by the name of asparagus is said by Simeon Seth to be so nutritious that it deserves to hold an intermediate place between pot-herbs and flesh. He remarks, that it is diuretic, and imparts its smell to the urine. The wild asparagus is called corruda by Cato, Columella, and Pliny.

SECT. LXXVI.—ON HERBS HAVING ESCULENT ROOTS.

The bunias or turnip, when eaten after being twice boiled, is nutritious, no less so than other herbs, but when frequently taken it engenders thick juices. The bulbi are astringent and detergent, whet the appetite, strengthen the stomach, and evacuate the viscid humours contained in the chest. When twice boiled, they are more nourishing, but less expectorant, having lost their bitter principle. They are productive of semen, and aphrodisiacal when liberally used, and occasion flatulence and griping. When eaten with fish-sauce and oil, they are very sweet, do not create flatulence, are nutritious and digestible. The garden and wild carrot and the caraway have roots which are less nutritious than turnip, but hot, decidedly aromatic, and diuretic. But when used too freely, they supply bad juices, and become of difficult digestion, like other roots. Some call the wild carrot daucus; it is evidently more diuretic than the other. The radish is of an attenuant and heating nature; but may be eaten before other food along with vinegar and fish-sauce, to loosen the bowels, but by no means after a meal. The onion, garlic, leek, and dog-leek (ampeloprason), being of an acrid nature, warm the body, attenuate and cut the thick humours contained in it; when twice boiled, they give little nourishment, but when unboiled they do not nourish at all. The garlic is more deobstruent and diaphoretic than the others; and the dog-leek, being wild, is drier than the common leek. Regarding pot-herbs in general, the raw, when eaten, furnish worse juices than the boiled, as they have more excrementitious juice. But those which are prepared for pickles with brine or vinegar and salt are stomachic, and whet the appetite, and discuss crude humours; but are of difficult digestion, and supply bad juices when too freely taken.

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COMMENTARY. Galen thus delivers the general character of these substances: The roots of pot-herbs which are acrid, such as those of onions, leeks, garlic, radish, and carrot, contain bad juices; but those of turnips, rapes, and caraways hold an intermediate place between things of good and of bad juices.

It is well known that the Romans had two kinds of herbs with esculent roots, called the napus and rapum, and that they are generally admitted to have been two species of the turnip. See Columella (de R. Rust. ii, 10); Pliny (H. N. xviii, 13) and the note of Harduin; Sprengel (R. H. H. t. i.) The term bunias occurs first in Nicander; and that it was synonymous with the gongylis is declared by Galen and our author; and, further, that it was the brassica napobrassica L., or wild navew, is admitted by all the late authorities on classical botany, with the exception of Dierbach, who most unaccountably contends that it is the B. oleracea. Galen says that unless well boiled it is indigestible, flatulent, and bad for the stomach. Seth assigns it the same qualities as our author. All account it diuretic and aphrodisiacal. Apicius directs the rapa and napi to be eaten with cumin, rue, vinegar, oil, &c. (iii, 13.) Cato the Censor was very fond of turnips, and used to prepare them with his own hands. It appears from Athenæus that the ancients frequently ate their turnips roasted. They also ate turnips prepared as a pickle with vinegar and mustard at the commencement of a feast, as whetters. (Deipnos. iv, 11.) According to Diphilus, in this state they are more attenuant than in their natural state. (Deipnos. ix, 8.)

It is not well ascertained what the esculent bulbi of the ancients were. Harduin conjectures that they were a delicious kind of onions. Matthiolus and Nonnius are wholly undecided. Sprengel inclines, with Dalecampius and Sibthorp, to think that they were a species of muscari, or musk hyacinth. The account given of them by Serapion, who calls them capæ sine tunicis, agrees better with the conjecture of Harduin. Eustathius likewise says that the bulbus was a wild onion. (Ad Iliad. xiii, 589.) Columella, Varro, Apicius, and Martial call them aphrodisiacal.

The staphylinus was probably the carrot, or daucus carota, but we are inclined to think that it also comprehended the parsnip. See Athen. (Deip. ix, 2.) Apicius, among other methods of dressing it, directs it to be done with salt, pure oil, and vinegar.

The sisarum was probably the garden parsnip, pastinaca sativa L.

The carus seems indisputably to have been the carum carui L. Dioscorides says that its boiled root may be eaten like the carrot. Seth praises it as being carminative, diuretic, and astringent. Apicius mentions it frequently along with spices and other aromatics.

The characters of the onion, garlic, and leek are taken from Galen. Celsus calls them calefacient, and ranks them with things having unwholesome juices. Actuarius prefers the leek to the onion and garlic. The latter is warmly eulogised by Galen, as being the rustic’s theriac. Horace had not so much favour for it. (Epod. iii.) Galen calls the ampeloprason the same as the wild leek. (De Fac. Simp. vi.) Dioscorides describes two species of the porrum, namely, the capitatum and sectivum.

The asphodel (asphodelus ramosus) is mentioned as an article of food by the poet Hesiod. Galen, however, speaks of its being eaten only in times of scarcity.