Part 3

SINGLE OR DOUBLE CASES.

For those having only a few colonies, it is not always convenient to build cases for colonies in groups of four. It is not necessary to give dimensions in detail for those having a few colonies, however, for they will usually wish to use whatever they have at hand. It is often possible to arrange a heavy wooden box, such as those used for shipping dry goods (fig. 4), so as to make a winter case for one colony which will answer every purpose. It is, of course, necessary that the salient feature of a good winter case be preserved. If the arrangement of the apiary makes it inconvenient to have the colonies in groups of four throughout the year, it is quite possible to make good cases for two colonies. Anything other than the four-colony case, however, will probably cost more per colony, or if too many colonies are put into larger cases there may be trouble from other causes, as from drifting.

ARRANGEMENT WITHIN THE HIVE.

CAPACITY OF THE WINTER HIVE.

As has been pointed out, bees need room for breeding in the fall and again in the spring. During the winter season there is no brood-rearing in normal colonies which are adequately protected, and room for breeding therefore is not essential during the winter. If the bees are to have room for the proper development of colony strength, however, they should have two hive bodies each of 10-frame Langstroth size by about the beginning of April in most parts of the country, and earlier in the South. In order that it may be unnecessary to open colonies during a period of such unsettled weather as obtains at this season, it is advised that the room for breeding be provided in the fall and left with the bees all winter. To make this a safe procedure, it is necessary to provide more packing than would be necessary if the colony were provided with only enough room for the cluster and winter stores during the winter. It has been found desirable also to leave more stores with the bees than have been left by many beekeepers, and this is additional reason for the giving of more room during the winter.

It is recommended, therefore, that in all parts of the United States colonies of full strength be wintered in two hive-bodies of 10-frame Langstroth size. They should, of course, be provided with abundant protection and the entrances should be reduced.

SPACE ABOVE THE FRAMES.

Formerly it was commonly recommended that corn cobs, or other objects designed for the purpose, be placed above the top bars of the frames, and then that quilts be placed over these. The purpose of these objects, was to lift the quilts so that the bees could pass over the tops of the frames. In former years it was advised that holes be bored through the combs to permit passage from one space to the other. Of late years these things have been abandoned, to a large degree, for it is known now that if bees are packed as they should be they may pass easily at all times to any part of the hive as need arises. It is often stated that bees die of starvation in the hives when there is abundant honey not many inches away from the cluster. This, of course, never happens in colonies that are well packed. In colonies that are adequately protected there is no better plan than simply to leave the regular wooden cover in place and sealed down by the bees. Quilts directly over the frames are a nuisance at any time, and during the winter they are of no value for upward ventilation in well packed colonies and should be used only as a poor makeshift for good packing.

UPWARD VENTILATION.

A common practice has been to remove the hive cover when the bees are packed for winter and to cover the frames with burlap or some such porous material, the object being to allow the escape of any moisture which may be generated within the hive during the winter. Moisture is being generated constantly as the bees consume the honey stores, but if the bees are adequately packed the amount of moisture will be reduced to the minimum. The chief dancer, of course, is from moisture which condenses, and in an adequately packed hive there is no condensation. The temperature never goes low enough for water vapor to condense. Therefore it is obvious that upward ventilation for the escape of moisture is never needed in hives that are packed as they should be. Any beekeeper who has had trouble in the past with condensed moisture in the hives, or with wet packing over the porous tops, may be sure that he has not provided enough packing material.

Another thing is to be considered in connection with the subject of upward ventilation. The entrances to the hives must be greatly reduced in order that there may not be excessive loss of heat at that point. If upward ventilation is provided, there is opportunity for the wind to blow through even the small entrance, through the hive and out through the porous cover. This current of air will be slight but nevertheless it exists, and serves as an avenue for the escape of considerable heat.

If insufficient packing is provided, upward ventilation becomes almost necessary, unless a large entrance is left. The beekeeper must see to it that he is providing adequate packing material before he gives up the upward ventilation, but he should not count his bees well packed for winter so long as he must provide for the escape of condensed moisture.

THE ENTRANCE.

As has been pointed out, the entrances of hives must be greatly reduced during the winter in order that the efficacy of the bottom packing may be preserved. It is desirable, however, that provision be made for larger entrances during the early fall and again in the spring. To provide conditions suitable at all times while the packing cases are on, the Bureau of Entomology has adopted a type of entrance which to some extent has been used previously in the North. Five 3/8-inch anger holes are bored in the ends of the packing case at a height that will allow for the thickness of the case floor, the bottom packing, and the thickness of the bottom of the hive. This usually is a little over 6 inches from the lower edge of the case ends. No alighting board should be placed at the outer entrance holes, as it is not needed and serves only to collect snow and ice.

To prevent the tunnels from getting out of alignment at the outer edge, a peg of the diameter of the holes is inserted through the outer hole for each hive and into the tunnel (see fig. 2). This peg is usually about 2-1/2 inches long. This leaves four auger holes, each three-eighths of an inch in diameter, for the bees to use as an entrance during the fall and spring, and during the colder weather a piece of section material or a small board is tacked over three of the holes. (See fig. 3.) This gives in winter a single hole for an entrance, three-eighths of an inch in diameter. This provides a place for the bees to remove their dead, a place for flight on moderately warm days, and also provides adequate ventilation for the hive while the bees are confined without an opportunity for flight. However, the size of entrance should not be discussed without warning beekeepers that unless adequate packing is provided, such a small entrance may result in the death of the colony. Furthermore, a poorly packed colony will not be able to carry out the bees as they die, and the death rate will be higher; and these things combined may result in an accumulation of dead bees at the entrance, which will serve to suffocate the remaining bees. A colony that is well packed, however, is able to remove all dead bees as fast as they die, and there will never be an accumulation on the floor of the hive. Furthermore, a well-packed colony does not need so large an entrance for ventilation as does one that is not packed or which has not enough packing. If snow drifts over the small entrance here described, the beekeeper need have no anxiety, for the bees can still receive adequate ventilation. If a crust of ice closes the entrance it will be well to break it, but usually the escaping heat will melt this ice before any damage is done.

WINTER SCHEDULE.

Great confusion has existed among beekeepers as to the right time to pack the bees for winter, and especially as to the right time to remove the packing in the spring. It is quite possible to give definite directions for both procedures and to place the recommendations on a firm foundation by basing them on weather phenomena. The maps (figs. 5 and 6), showing the time of the first average killing frost in the fall, serve as a basis for the recommendations for each of the zones into which the map of the eastern United States is divided. Perhaps it will be a matter of surprise to beekeepers in parts of the South to see that, so far as the wintering of the bees is concerned, they are as far north as beekeepers who live many miles farther toward the pole.

The lines on figure 5 indicate the average dates of the first killing frost in the fall, and these dates, given at the ends of the heavy lines, are of direct value to the beekeeper as giving the proper time for putting on the winter cases. The average dates of the last killing frost in the spring do not show exactly the same lines on the maps, but the differences are not sufficiently great to justify the use of a separate map for this purpose. The authors have chosen therefore to divide the country into the zones indicated, and the recommendations given below apply to each of the zones shown.

On account of the variations in elevation, it is impossible to carry these lines into the Rocky Mountain region, but as packing is just as necessary in the West as in the East, figure 6 is inserted to indicate roughly the time for the putting on of the packing in the fall. The dates in this map are the average dates of the first killing frost. By consulting Table I the beekeeper of the West may learn the time advised for the removal of the packing, by placing his locality in its proper zone, on the basis of the first killing frost.

Table I.--Dates for the packing and unpacking of been in the various parts of the United States, board on data furnished by the Weather Bureau for the average dates of the first and last killing frosts. The amount of packing recommended for each zone is included.

------+-------------+-----------+----------------+----------------- | Date for | Date for | Packing | Zone.| packing. | unpacking.| recommended.| Remarks. ------+-------------+-----------+----------------+----------------- A | ..... | ..... | ..... | None needed. B | ..... | ..... | ..... | Do. C | November 25 | March 15 | 2-4- 6 | D | November 10 | April 10 | 4-6- 8 | E | October 25 | May 1 | 4-6- 8 | F | October 1 | May 20 | 4-8-12 | G | September 15| June 1 | 4-8-12 | Cellar wintering | | | | much safer. ------+-------------+-----------+----------------+-----------------

In this column the first figure represents in inches the amount of packing needed below the bottom boards, the second the amount of side packing, and the last the amount needed on top.

TIME FOR PUTTING ON THE WINTER PACKING.

Frequently great loss of colony strength is due to delay in putting on the packing. Perhaps this is the most common source of loss in outdoor wintering aside from that due to a failure to pack the bees at all. Packing should not be deferred after the flowers furnishing the last honey are killed by frost. In case the late fall flowers furnish honey that is to be removed, then it is necessary to wait until nectar is no longer coming in before applying the packing, but it is indeed rare that the last honey should be taken away, and it is good beekeeping to apply the packing even before there is any frost at all. The determining factor is the necessity for handling the bees. If more stores must be given them or if some of the late honey is to be removed in order that it may be replaced by better honey or by sugar sirup, then handling of the bees after frost may be needed, but after the last essential handling it is much the best plan to pack the bees. In pints of the country where bees are wintered outdoors it is quite customary to delay packing until Thanksgiving Day, but this is too late by far except in the extreme South (zone C).

It is safe, therefore, for the beekeeper to use the dates shown in figures 5 and 6 and the data given in Table I as a guide to the time of packing. He may be assured that if he delays packing later than the dates shown therein the bees will suffer by a loss of colony strength and vitality at a season of the year when they can ill afford to be weakened by neglect. Under no circumstances should packing be delayed more, than two weeks after the date given for each zone. Further, if packing is delayed until after cold weather begins, the disturbance of the colony may induce the beginning of brood-rearing, find this in turn may result in the death of the colony. If by chance a colony has been left unpacked until after the bees have been confined by cold weather for three or four weeks, the packing may do more harm than good.

TIME FOR THE REMOVAL OF PACKING.

If bees are given the right amount of room, stores, and protection early in the fall, nothing that the beekeeper can do will benefit them until it is necessary to handle them because of preparations for swarming or because of the incoming nectar. Of course if bees are well packed they get so strong in the spring that if crowded they begin preparations for swarming earlier than do colonies which have been neglected during the winter. By following the methods here described the season for swarm control is advanced, so that usually it is entirely passed before the honey-flow begins.

In the region of Washington it has been found best not to remove the packing until at least May 1. Further south or in warmer regions it may be well to remove the packing earlier, but in localities such as New York or Wisconsin (zone F) the packing should be left in place until at least May 20, and usually until June 1. Obviously this will be impossible unless two hive bodies are left on the bees all winter, or unless more room is given in the early spring, before unpacking. It has been found that if the bees are allowed to remain in the cases until the dates named they may then be taken out ready for whatever nectar may come. By that time they should have 12 frames of brood--far more than is found in the average colony throughout the country oven in the midst of the honey-flow. Such colonies are so strong that if cooler weather comes after they are unpacked, as it sometimes does, they are not injured by it. Of course the bees would be as well of even better off if the packing could be left on throughout the year, but as yet no practicable way has been devised for giving the bees enough packing during the winter and then leaving it on throughout the summer. The commercial double-walled hives which have been devised for this purpose are all too scant in packing material for good results, and none of them can be recommended.