The Panjab, North-West Frontier Province, and Kashmir

Chapter Xvii Could Not Have Been Written At All Without the Help

afforded by Mr Vincent Smith's Early History of India. I have acknowledged my debts to other friends in the "List of Illustrations."

J. M. D.

8 May 1916.

CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE

I. Areas and Boundaries 1

II. Mountains, Hills, and Plains 8

III. Rivers 32

IV. Geology and Mineral Resources 50

V. Climate 64

VI. Herbs, Shrubs, and Trees 71

VII. Forests 86

VIII. Beasts, Birds, Fishes, and Insects 90

IX. The People: Numbers, Races, and Languages 96

X. The People: Religions 114

XI. The People: Education 122

XII. Roads and Railways 127

XIII. Canals 132

XIV. Agriculture and Crops 142

XV. Handicrafts and Manufactures 152

XVI. Exports and Imports 159

XVII. History: Pre-Muhammadan Period, 500 B.C.-1000 A.D. 160

XVIII. History: Muhammadan Period, 1000 A.D.-1764 A.D. 168

XIX. History: Sikh Period, 1764 A.D.-1849 A.D. 181

XX. History: British Period, 1849 A.D.-1913 A.D. 188

XXI. Archaeology and Coins 200

XXII. Administration: General 212

XXIII. Administration: Local 217

XXIV. Revenue and Expenditure 219

XXV. Panjáb Districts and Delhi 224

XXVI. The Panjáb Native States 271

XXVII. The North-west Frontier Province 291

XXVIII. Kashmír and Jammu 314

XXIX. Cities 325

XXX. Other Places of Note 347

TABLES

I. Tribes of Panjáb including Native States and of N.W.F. Province 359

II. Rainfall, Cultivation, Population, and Land Revenue 360

III. Agricultural Diagrams 362

IV. Crops 364

V. Revenue and Expenditure of Panjáb 366

Index 367

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FIG. PAGE

1. Arms of Panjáb 1

2. Orographical Map (Holdich's India) 9

3. Nanga Parvat (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára) 11

4. Burzil Pass (Sir Aurel Stein) 13

5. Rotang Pass (J. Coldstream) 15

6. Mt Haramukh (Sir Aurel Stein) 16

7. R. Jhelam in Kashmír--View towards Mohand Marg (Sir Aurel Stein) 18

8. Near Náran in Kágan Glen, Hazára (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára) 19

9. Muztagh-Karakoram and Himalayan Ranges in Kashmír (Holdich's India) 21

10. The Khaibar Road (Holdich's India) 23

11. Panjáb Rivers (Holdich's India) 33

12. The Indus at Attock (Sir Aurel Stein) 37

13. Indus at Kafirkot, D.I. Khán dt. (Sir Aurel Stein) 38

14. Fording the River at Lahore (E. B. Francis) 42

15. Biás at Manálí (J. Coldstream) 44

16. Rainfall of different Seasons (Blanford) 62, 63

17. Average Barometric and Wind Chart for January (Blanford) 65

18. Average Barometric and Wind Chart for July (Blanford) 66

19. Banian or Bor trees (Sir Aurel Stein) 75

20. Deodárs and Hill Temple (J. Coldstream) 80

21. Firs in Himálaya (J. Coldstream) 82

22. Chinárs (Sir Aurel Stein) 83

23. Rhododendron campanulatum (J. Coldstream) 84

24. Big Game in Ladákh 92

25. Yáks (J. Coldstream) 93

26. Black Buck 95

27. Map showing density of population (Panjáb Census Report, 1911) 97

28. Map showing increase and decrease of population (Panjáb Census Report, 1911) 98

29. Map showing density of population in N.W.F. Province (N.W. Provinces Census Report, 1911) 99

30. Map showing density of population in Kashmír (Kashmír Census Report, 1911) 100

31. Jat Sikh Officers (Nand Rám) 103

32. Blind Beggar (E. B. Francis) 107

33. Dards (Sir Aurel Stein) 108

34. Map showing races (from The People of India, by Sir Herbert Risley. With permission of W. Thacker and Co., London) 109

35. Map showing distribution of languages (Panjáb Census Report, 1911) 111

36. Map showing distribution of religions (Panjáb Census Report, 1911) 115

37. Raghunáth Temple, Jammu 116

38. Golden Temple, Amritsar (Mrs B. Roe) 117

39. Mosque in Lahore City (E. B. Francis) 118

40. God and Goddess, Chamba (H.H. the Rája of Chamba) 120

41. A Kulu godling and his attendants (J. Coldstream) 121

42. A School in the time preceding annexation 124

43. Poplar lined road to Srínagar (Miss M. B. Douie) 128

44. Map showing railways 129

45. Map--Older Canals 134

46. Map--Canals 137

47. Map of Canals of Pesháwar district 141

48. Persian Wheel Well and Ekka (Sir Aurel Stein) 143

49. A drove of goats--Lahore (E. B. Francis) 144

50. A steep bit of hill cultivation, Hazára (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára) 146

51. Preparing rice field in the Hills (J. Coldstream) 147

52. Carved doorway (Sir Aurel Stein) 151

53. Shoemaker's craft (Baden Powell Panjáb Manufactures) 153

54. Carved windows (Sir Aurel Stein) 155

55. Papier maché work of Kashmír (Baden Powell Panjáb Manufactures) 156

56. The Potter 157

57. Coin--obverse and reverse of Menander 163

58. Mártand Temple (Miss Griffiths) 166

59. Bába Nának and the Musician Mardána 174

60. Guru Govind Singh 176

61. Mahárája Ranjít Singh 182

62. Mahárája Kharak Singh 185

63. Nao Nihál Singh 185

64. Mahárája Sher Singh 185

65. Zamzama Gun (E. B. Francis) 187

66. Sir John Lawrence (from picture in National Portrait Gallery) 189

67. John Nicholson's Monument at Delhi (Lady Douie) 190

68. Sir Robert Montgomery 191

69. Panjáb Camels at Lahore (E. B. Francis) 193

70. Sir Charles Aitchison (Bourne and Shepherd) 194

71. Sir Denzil Ibbetson (Albert Jenkins) 198

72. Sir Michael O'Dwyer (R. Rámlál Bhairulál and Son) 199

73. Group of Chamba Temples (H.H. the Rája of Chamba) 201

74. Payer Temple--Kashmír (Sir Aurel Stein) 202

75. Reliquary (Government of India) 203

76. Colonnade in Kuwwat ul Islám Mosque 204

77. Kutb Minár (Miss M. B. Douie) 205

78. Tomb of Emperor Tughlak Sháh (Miss M. B. Douie) 206

79. Jama Masjid, Delhi 207

80. Tomb of Humáyun (Miss M. B. Douie) 207

81. Bádsháhí Mosque, Lahore (E. B. Francis) 208

82. Coins 210

83. Skeleton District Map of Panjáb 223

84. Delhi Enclave 225

85. Hissár district with portions of the Phulkian States etc. 226

86. Rohtak district 228

87. Gurgáon district 230

88. Karnál district 231

89. Ambála district with Kalsia 233

90. Kángra district 235

91. Biás at Manálí (J. Coldstream) 237

92. Religious Fair in Kulu (J. Coldstream) 238

93. Kulu Women (J. Coldstream) 239

94. Hoshyárpur district 240

95. Jalandhar district and Kapurthala 242

96. Ludhiána district and adjoining Native States 243

97. Ferozepore district and Farídkot 244

98. Gurdáspur district 246

99. Siálkot district 247

100. Gujránwála district 248

101. Amritsar district 250

102. Lahore district 251

103. Gujrát district 252

104. Jhelam district 254

105. Ráwalpindí district 255

106. Shop in Murree Bazár (Lady Douie) 256

107. Attock district 257

108. Mianwálí district 259

109. Sháhpur district 261

110, Montgomery district 263

111. Lyallpur district 264

112. Jhang district 265

113. Multán district 266

114. Muzaffargarh district 268

115. Dera Ghází Khán district 269

116. Mahárája of Patiála (C. Vandyk) 272

117. Mahárája of Jínd 277

118. Mahárája Sir Hira Singh of Nábha (Bourne and Shepherd) 278

119. Mahárája of Kapúrthala 279

120. Rája of Farídkot (Julian Rust) 280

121. Nawáb of Baháwalpur 281

122. Native States of Chamba, Mandí, Suket, Biláspur 284

123. Rája Surindar Bikram Parkásh of Sirmúr 285

124. Rája of Chamba (F. Bremner) 287

125. Bashahr (Sketch Map by H. W. Emerson) 289

126. Sir Harold Deane (F. Bremner) 292

127. North-west Frontier Province 293

128. Dera Ismail Khán district 294

129. Bannu district 295

130. Kohát district 297

131. Pesháwar district 298

132. Hazára district 300

133. Sir George Roos Keppel (Maull and Fox) 303

134. Tribal Territory north of Pesháwar 304

135. Tribal Territory to west of N.W.F. Province 308

136. Khaibar Rifles 310

137. North Wazíristán Militia and Border Post 313

138. Mahárája of Kashmír 315

139. Jammu and Kashmír 316

140. Takht i Sulimán in Winter (Sir Aurel Stein) 318

141. Ladákh Hills (Mrs Wynyard Brown) 320

142. Zojilá Pass (Mrs Wynyard Brown) 322

143. Delhi Mutiny Monument 327

144. Kashmír Gate, Delhi 328

145. Map of Delhi City 329

146. Darbár Medal 334

147. Street in Lahore (E. B. Francis) 336

148. Sháhdara 338

149. Trans-border traders in Pesháwar 343

150. Mosque of Sháh Hamadán (F. Bremner) 345

Map of territories of Mahárája of Jammu and Kashmír at end of volume Map of Panjáb at end of volume

CHAPTER I. Areas and Boundaries

AREAS AND BOUNDARIES

~Introductory.~--Of the provinces of India the Panjáb must always have a peculiar interest for Englishmen. Invasions by land from the west have perforce been launched across its great plains. The English were the first invaders who, possessing sea power, were able to outflank the mountain ranges which guard the north and west of India. Hence the Panjáb was the last, and not the first, of their Indian conquests, and the courage and efficiency of the Sikh soldiery, even after the guiding hand of the old Mahárája Ranjít Singh was withdrawn, made it also one of the hardest. The success of the early administration of the province, which a few years after annexation made it possible to use its resources in fighting men to help in the task of putting down the mutiny, has always been a matter of just pride, while the less familiar story of the conquests of peace in the first sixty years of British rule may well arouse similar feelings.

~Scope of work.~--A geography of the Panjáb will fitly embrace an account also of the North-West Frontier Province, which in 1901 was severed from it and formed into a separate administration, of the small area recently placed directly under the government of India on the transfer of the capital from Calcutta to Delhi, and of the native states in political dependence on the Panjáb Government. It will also be convenient to include Kashmír and the tribal territory beyond the frontier of British India which is politically controlled from Pesháwar. The whole tract covers ten degrees of latitude and eleven of longitude. The furthest point of the Kashmír frontier is in 37° 2' N., which is much the same as the latitude of Syracuse. In the south-east the Panjáb ends at 27° 4' N., corresponding roughly to the position of the southernmost of the Canary Islands. Lines drawn west from Pesháwar and Lahore would pass to the north of Beirut and Jerusalem respectively. Multán and Cairo are in the same latitude, and so are Delhi and Teneriffe. Kashmír stretches eastwards to longitude 80° 3' and the westernmost part of Wazíristán is in 69° 2' E.

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