CHAPTER XVI. Greece

GREECE

Grecian Dishes--Athens.

No one lives better than a well-to-do Greek outside his own country, and when he is in Greece his cook manages to do a great deal with comparatively slight material. A Greek cook can make a skewered pigeon quite palatable, and the number of ways he has of cooking quails, from the simple method of roasting them cased in bay leaves to all kinds of mysterious bakings after they have been soused in oil, are innumerable. There are pillaus without number in the Greek cuisine, chiefly of lamb, and it is safe to take for granted that anything a la Grec is likely to be something savoury, with a good deal of oil, a suspicion of onion, a flavour of parsley, and a good deal of rice with it. These, however, are some of the most distinctive dishes:--Coucouretzi, the entrails and liver of lamb, roasted on a spit; Bligouri, wheat coarsely ground, cooked in broth, and eaten with grated cheese; Argokalamara, a paste of flour and yolk of egg fried in butter with honey poured over it. All Greek cooking, as all Turkish is, should be done very slowly over a charcoal fire. A too great use of oil is the besetting sin of the indifferent Greek cook. The egg-plant is treated in half-a-dozen ways by the Greeks, stuffing them with some simple forced meat being the most common.

The food of the peasant is grain, rice, goat when he can get it, a skinny fowl as a great delicacy, milk, and strong cheese. A bunch of grapes and a piece of sour bread forms a feast for him.

The Grecian wines are not unpalatable but very light. They are mostly exported to Vienna, being fortified previous to their departure to enable them to stand the voyage, and again manipulated on their arrival, so that their original characteristics are considerably obliterated.

Athens

My trusted collaborateur A.B. went on a yachting tour in Grecian waters last spring, having a special intention of studying Greek restaurants. He wrote to me as to Athens, and his report was short and to the point: "Outside the hotels there is but one cafe, Solon's, principally used as a political rendezvous. Its attractions are of the most meagre description." A most grave litterateur to whom, as he had been lately travelling in Greece, and as I had not been there for ten years, I applied for supplementary information, applied the adjective "beastly" to all Greek restaurants, and added that the one great crying need of Greece and Athens is an American bar for the sale of cooling drinks in the Parthenon.

N.N.-D.

INDEX

Aachen, 135

Abbaye de Theleme Restaurant, 33

Acqua Litiosa di S. Marco, 171

Agnolotti, 158

Aix-la-Chapelle, 135

Aix-les-Bains, 74

Albergo Giappone, Leghorn, 170

Algeciras, 192

Allemania, Frankfurt, 128

Alster Cafe, Hamburg, 143

Ambassadeurs Restaurant, 27

Ambleteuse, 37

Amsterdam, 109

Anglais, Cafe, 5, 6, 8

Anguille di Comacchio, 166

Antwerp, 83

Ardei Ungelute, 207

Argokalamara, 230

Arles, 73

Arselle alla Marinara, 171

Artichokes, 48, 173

Asparagus, 3

Athens, 231

Aubanel, M., 29

Aubergines, 227

Bacalas, 179

Bacchio e Capretto alla Cacciatora, 174

Bachelier, 65

Baclava, 207

Bad Gastein, 204

Baden, 198

Baden-Baden, 134

Barbue Paillard, 13 Durand, 17 a la Russe, 18

Barcelona, 180

Baron d'agneau Henri IV., 12

Bars, 31

Basle, 153

Bauernschaenke, Berlin, 150

Bauer's Cafe, Berlin, 149

Bayonne Restaurant, 50, 51

Beaufils, 38

Beaulieu, 60

Beauvillier's Cafe, 4

Becasse Flambee, 18 au Fumet, 12

Beer, 103, 117, 120, 121, 128, 129, 138, 196 cellars, 114

Belgium, 79

Belvedere Restaurant, Dresden, 118

Bequet, 42

Berk, 37

Berlin, 144

Bern, 154

Bertrand's Restaurant, 84

Biarritz, 52

Bignon's Cafe, 4

Birds, 3, 82, 98

Biscuit Foyot, 25

Blanche Restaurant, 33

Bligouri, 230

Bobadilla, 190

Boeuf, Cote de, braise Empire, 12

Boeuf a la mode Restaurant, 21

Bologna, 166

Borchard's Restaurant, Berlin, 146

Bordeaux, 50 Cafe de, 50, 51

Borel, 4

Bouillabaisse, 41, 54, 55, 73, 76

Bouillon Riche Restaurant, 27

Bouillons, 34

Boulogne, 36

Bouzoum, Madame, 71

Brandade, 55

Bratwurstgloecklein, 123

Brest, 49

Breton menu, 48

Brill, 2

Bristol Restaurant, Berlin, 145

Broccoli, 174

Broche a Rotir, 42

Bruges, 88

Brun, Hotel (Bologna), 166

Brussels, restaurants at, 93, 103

Bucarest, 208

Budapesth, 204

Buerose Restaurant, Frankfurt, 128

Burdel, M., 8

Burgos, 187

Burgundy, 80, 88, 94, 100, 109

Busecca, 160

Cabois, 38

Cabourg, 43

Cadiz and Jerez, 191

Caen, 44

Caesario, 18

Cafe de Paris, 30 Americain, 30 de la Cascade, 29 de la Paix, 30

Caille a la Souvaroff, 18

Calais, 35

Caldo, 179

Canape Clarence Mackay, 23

Canard Pompeienne, 26 a la Presse, 3, 17

Cancale, 47

Caneton de Rouen au Sang, 18

Caneton Rouennaise, 42

Cannes, 56

Capeletti, 158

Carbonades Flamandes, 81

Cardons, 160

Carlsbad, 199

Carpe a la Gelee, 5

Casimir, 4

Casino, Hotel du, Cherbourg, 46 Municipal, Biarritz, 52

Castagnacci alla Pisana, 169

Caviar, 143, 207, 208, 212

Cellars, 7, 10, 25

Cepes a la Bordelaise, 51

Chabas, M. Paul, 73

Champagne, 99, 100, 116, 148

Champeaux Restaurant, 22

Chapon Fin, 50, 51

Charcutiers, 44

"Charles," 11

Chateau de Madrid, 28 Laroque, 89

Chateaubriand, 22

Cherbourg, 46

Cheslas, 208

Cheval Blanc Restaurant, 43

Chevillard's Restaurant, 28

Choesels a la Bruxelloise, 81

Choux Farcies, 43

Cider, 43, 45

Cinghiale in agro dolce, 174

Ciulama, 207

Claret, 50

Clermont-Ferrand, 78

Club restaurant, 31

Codeghino, 167

Coffee, 93, 136

Cologne, 129

Colon Restaurant, Barcelona, 181

Confit d'Oie, 69

Consomme Fortunato, 15 Baigneuse, 17

Constantinople, 226

Cost of dinners, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 48, 65, 80, 84, 88, 89, 229

Cote de Boeuf a la Russe, 107

Cotelette alla Marsigliese, 162 a la Milanese, 162

Cotelettes d'Izard marine, 69

Coucouretzi, 230

Creme de Langoustines, 65 Germiny, 13

Crepes des Gourmets, 15 Suzette, 18

Criterium Restaurant, Antwerp, 84

Croutes au Champignons, 39

D'Hortesio's Cafe, 4

Denmark, 215

Desir, Le, de Roi, 11

Dieppe, 37

Dinard, 47

Diner Francais Restaurant, 34

Dresden, 114, 121

Dressel Restaurant, Berlin, 147

Drouet, Henri, 14

Ducordet, M., 38

Duglere, 2, 8

Durand's Restaurant, 14, 16, 30

Duesseldorf, 128

Echenard, M., 54

Ecrevisses Bordelaises, 39, 76 Regina, 96

Eggs, 48

Elysee Palace Hotel, 18

Ems, 135

Ermitage Restaurant, 219

Estoril, 195

Etaples, 37

Faina, 163

Faisan a la Financiere, 3

Fegatini di pollo, 169

Fegato alla Veneziana, 166

Ferme St-Simeon, 43

Fiesoli, 169

Figs, 163, 169

Filet de Lievre Arnold White, 23 Paillard, 12 Selle Czarine, 12

Filet de Sole, 12 Cardinal, 23 Gibbs, 23 Martin, 184 Mornay, 8 Noel, 21 La Peyrouse, 25

Fishes, 2, 21, 53, 64

Florence, 168

Fonduta, 160

Fowls, 2

Foyot's Restaurant, 11, 22, 25

Francais Restaurant, Nice, 58 Restaurant, 42

France, Hotel de, Cherbourg, 47

Frankfurt-am-Main, 126

Frankfurter Hof, 126

Frascati's Restaurant, 39

"Frederic," 11, 23

Fritto Misto, 158, 171 di Calamaretti, 174 Picatto, 162

Friture du Pays, 53

Gaillon Restaurant, 11, 14

Game, 3, 116, 219

Garbure soup, 69

Garnier, Restaurant, 36

Gazpaco, 179

Geneva, 154, 155

Genoa, 163

German restaurant, 31 cooking, 110

Germiny, Creme, 13

Ghent, 80

Ghiveci, 208

Gianduiotti, 160

Gieshuebl, 202

Gigot de sept heures, 9

Glace Gismonda, 18

Gnocchi di Patele, 174

Gothenburg, 213

Goulache, 204

Graff, M. Paul, 38

Grand Hotel de l'Europe, Spa, 87

Grand Port, 76 Revard, 76

Grand Seize, 5, 7, 8

Greece, 230

Grenada, 191

Grissini, 160

Grives a la Namuroise, 82

Grouse, 83

Gudgeon, 2

Guepet, 4

Guichard, 71, 72

Guillemin, 27

Hague, 105

Hamburg, 138

Hanover, 124

Hardi, Cafe, 4

Hareng Lucas, 22

Hartmann's Restaurant, 197

Hasselbacken Restaurant, 210

Havre, 38

Helder Restaurant, 66, 92

Henrion's Grand Hotel, Aachen, 135

Henri's Restaurant, Gaillon, 14

Heyste, 89

Hochepot Gantois, 81

Hofbrauhaus, Munich, 121

Holland, 105

Homard Cardinal, 12, 197 a l'Americaine, 41, 45, 107 Foyot, 25 chaud a beurre truffe, 148

Homburg, 131

Honfleur, 43

Huitres Titania, 197

Irish stew, 96

Isnard's Restaurant, 56

Italian cookery, 157 restaurants, 31

"Joseph," 11, 23

Julia, Mlle., 49

Julien's Cafe, 30

Justin's Restaurant, Barcelona, 180

Kaiserkeller, Berlin, 150

Kastanato, 227

Kebap, 227

Keinfte, 227

Kempinsky's Restaurant, Berlin, 147

Kiel, 137

Kneist, Dresden, 120

Lafosse's Restaurant, 37

Laiterie, Brussels, 152

Lampreys, 2, 51

La Peyrouse Restaurant, 22, 25

La Rue's Restaurant, 16, 30

Laurent's Restaurant, 26

Ledoyen's Restaurant, 27

L'Etoile, Brussels, 100

Lefebvre, 38

Leghorn, 170

Leipzig, 125

Le Navigateur, 25

Lennertz's Restaurant, Aachen, 136

Liqueurs, 22

Lisbon, 180, 192

Lobsters, 45, 48

London House, Nice, 58

Lucas's Restaurant, 21, 32

Lucerne, 153

Maccheroni, 158

Madrid, 187

Madrid, Restaurant de, 44

Maire's Restaurant, 20, 26, 30

Maison Doree, Barcelona, 184

Maison Grossetete, 14 d'Or Cafe, 4, 6, 8

Malmoe, 213

Mamaliguzza, 208

Marguery's Restaurant, 21

Marienbad, 203

Marivaux Cafe, 11

Marseilles, 54

Martigues, 73

Maxim's Restaurant, 30

Medoc, 96, 97

Meizanne, 163

Mentone, 68

Menus, 7, 9, 13, 15, 17, 19, 28, 48, 53, 58, 59, 63, 64, 66, 67, 80, 87, 97, 107, 108, 132, 140, 141, 144, 146, 148, 156, 164, 181, 182, 183, 185, 188, 192, 193, 206, 208, 211, 214, 220, 228

Milan, 161

Militei, 207

Milk, 28, 37

Minestrone, 53, 158, 161, 163

Monte Carlo, 61

Mortadella, 167

Moscardini, 163

Moscow, 218

Mottez's Restaurant, 81

Moules a la mariniere, 99

Mourier, M., 30

Moussaka, 227

Mozzarelle in carozza, 176

Munich, 121

Mushrooms, 20

Mutton, 47

Naples, 174

Nassauer Hof, Wiesbaden, 133

Naesselkalsoppa, 211

National Hotel, Lucerne, 153

Neues Palais de Saxe, Dresden, 119

Nice, 58

Nimes, 74

Noailles Hotel, Marseilles, 54

Noel Peter's Restaurant, 21

Noisettes de Veau Port Mahon, 15

Normandie, Hotel de, 40

Norway, 214

Notta, 11

Nuremberg, 122 hotels, 124

Odessa, 224

Oeufs Claude Lowther, 23

Omelette Siberienne, 107 Souffles, 136

Oranges a l'Infante, 197

Ortolans en surprise, 13

Ossobuco, 162

Ostend, 89

Oysters, 32, 45, 47, 49, 52, 60, 136, 147 cellars, 142

Paillard's Restaurant, 11, 26, 30

Palast Hotel, Furstenhof, 127 Berlin, 147

Palermo, 177

Palmen Garten, Frankfurt, 127

Panettone, 162

Paprika, 204

Paprikahuhn, 204

Paris and cookery, 1 Cafe de, 4 Plage, 37 Restaurant de, 42

Park Hotel, Duesseldorf, 128

Partridges, 3, 83, 201

Paste asciutte, 158

Pasticcio di Maccheroni, 174

Pasqualina, 163

Pattona alla Pisana, 169

Pau, 71

Pavillion d'Armenonville, 28 Bleu, 34 Henri IV., 34

Peches Flambees, 18

Pepin Restaurant, 44

Pepperoni, 160

Perdreau et Caille Paillard, 13

Perdrix au choux, 3, 107

Perpadelle, 158 col Ragout, 167

Perrier's Restaurant, 41

Peyrafitte, Joseph, 72

Pforte's Restaurant, Hamburg, 138

Phillipe's Cafe, 4, 34

Pisa, 169

Pizzaiola, Steak alla, 176 Pizza alla, 176

Plattaer, 214

Poire Wannamaker, 23 Alaska, 107

Pollo en padella, 174

Polpette a la Milanese, 162

Polpi alla Luciana, 176

Pomme Otero, 12 Georgette, 12 Macaire, 12

Port Bou, 184

Potage Henri IV., 17 Foyot, 25 Germiny, 8 Reine, 18

Potatoes, 48

Poulard Aine, Mont St-Michel, 48

Poularde Maison d'Or, 5 Archiduc, 12 a la Derby, 12 a la Parisienne, 107 Reserve en Cocotte Raviolis, 55 a la Santos Dumont, 65 Wladimir, 12, 197

Poule au pot Henri IV., 107

Poulet Saute Grand Duc, 17 Maire, 21 Saute petits diables, 17

Pourville, 38

Prague, 204

Prawns, 17, 43, 48

Presciutto con fichi, 169

Prices charged at restaurants, 8, 14, 17, 29, 34, 39, 40, 43, 45, 50, 52, 57, 58, 61, 63, 66, 75, 88, 96, 97, 105, 115, 119, 128, 134, 136, 144, 147, 148, 155, 164, 166, 181, 183, 201, 209, 210, 212, 219, 221, 223

Prinz Wilhelm Cafe, Berlin, 149

Provence, 73

Prunier's restaurant, 32

Pucca baruca, 166

Puchero, 179

Puloski's Restaurant, 32

Puys, 38

Pyrenees, the, 69

Quadri, Restaurant, Venice, 164

Rat Mort Restaurant, 33

Rathskeller, 113 Hamburg, 143 Wiesbaden, 134

Ravioli, 158

Regence, restaurant, Nice, 59

Reichshof, Berlin, 149

Remoulins, 74

Reserve, cafe, Marseilles, 54 Cannes, 56 Restaurant de la (Beaulieu), 60

Restaurant, good cheap, 33

Restaurant Re, 66 des Fleurs, 31 Summer, 26

Riche, Cafe, 4

Risotto, 158, 171 Certosino, 162 Milanese, 162

Ritz, Hotel, 14, 18

Ritz, M., 153

Riz de Veau Foyot, 25

Rocher de Cancale, restaurant, 4, 84

Roches Noire, 43

Rognone Trifolato, 160

Rome, 172

Roti Kouzoum, 227

Rotterdam, 109

Rouen, 42

Rouennais Paillard, 12 a la Presse, 12

Roumania, 207

Rudesheimer restaurant, 149

Rumpelmayer, 71, 76

Russian restaurant, 31 dishes, 217

Sacher's Restaurant, Vienna, 197

Salade Gauloise, 18 Georgette, 17 Ideale, 12 de Princesses Liegeoises, 81 Russe, 39

Salamanca, 5

San Sebastian, 184

Santander, 187

Sardines, 2, 48

Sarmalute, 207

Sauerkraut, 111

Scheveningen, 109

Schiacciata, 169

Schweitzerhof, Lucerne, 153

Scordolea, 207

Selianka, 218

Seville, 189

Shrimps, 37, 43

Smoergasbord, 212, 214

Snails, 32

Sole au vin Rouge, 5 Marguery, 21 Normande, 36, 42, 107 Paillard, 12 Waleska, 65

Sole, filet de, a la Russe, 12 Egyptiennes, 65 Kotchoubey, 12

Soles, 2

Sopa de Camarao, 194

Sou Fassu, 73

Souffle Palmyre, 107

Souffle Pole Nord, 17 King Edward VII., 197

Spa, 85

Spagetti, 158, 177

Spagetti alle Vongole, 176

Spaghetti a sugo di carne, 171

Spanish restaurants, 31 cookery, 178

Spezzia, 167

Spigola, 176

Srazis, 218

St-Cloud, 34

St-Germain, 34

St-Malo, 47

St-Petersburg, 222

St-Remy, 74

Stadt Gotha Restaurant, Dresden, 119

Stephan Keller, 197

Stocafisso alla Genovese, 163

Stockholm, 210

Storvik, 213

Stracotto, 169

Supreme de Volaille Grand Duc, 12

Switzerland, 151

Sylvain's Restaurant, 22, 30

Tarascon, 73

Tavernes, 30, 32, 34

Terrine de Fois Gras a la gelee au Porto, 13

Tettachine, 158

Thurion's Restaurant, 33

Thuernagel Restaurant, Duesseldorf, 128

Tiedemann and Grahl's Restaurant, 119

Timbale de queues d'Ecrevisses, Mantua, 12

Tirlemont, 79

Tomatoes, 176

Topper's Cafe, Berlin, 149

Tortoni's Restaurant, 38 brasserie, 39

Tour d'Argent, 11, 22

Tournedos a la Rossini, 18

Treteau de Tabarin Restaurant, 32

Triglie alla Livornese, 171

Trinetti, 158

Tripes a la mode de Caen, 44

Trois Freres Provenceaux Cafe, 4

Trout, 2, 28, 77, 116, 154, 197, 201

Trouville Deauville, 43

Truffles, 160

Turin, 159

Turkey, 220

Turkeys, Norfolk, 3

Tuscan dinner, 170

Uova di Bufola, 174

Van der Pyl's Restaurant, 105

Veal, 2

Veau a la Casserole, 4

Vegetable dishes, 3

Venice, 164

Veron, Cafe, 4

Very, Cafe, 4

Vichy, 77

Vienna, 196 wines, 196

Viennese restaurants, 31

Vieux Calvados, 45

Villa Julia, La, at Pont Avin, 48

Villefranche, 61

Vitello Uccelletto, 163

Voisin's Cafe, 6, 9

Walnuts, 177

Warsaw, 225

Waterzoei de Poulet, 81

Wiesbaden, 133

Wine cellars, 198

Wines, 21, 22, 25, 27, 28, 29, 32, 34, 38, 41, 45, 50, 61, 70, 87, 88, 116, 150, 155, 159, 160, 162, 164, 174, 177, 180, 193, 196, 198, 201, 205 Amarena di Siracusa, 177 Bordeaux, 141 Chianti, 169 Diamante, 181 Dragasani, 208 Marsala, 177 Moscato di Siracusa, 177 Moselle, 128 Rhine, 129, 149 Rioja, 181 Valdepenas, 180

Wimille, 37

Woodcocks, 82, 102 feast, 82

Yachni, 227

Yalandji Dolmas, 227

Yaourt, 227

Zabajone, 158, 165

Zaragoza, 187

Zucchini Ripieni, 160

Zum Weissen Roessl, Berlin, 150

Zuppa di Vongole, 176 Inglese, 174 Datteri, 167 Peoci, 165 Pesce, 173

THE END

Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited. Edinburgh.

Transcriber's Notes

Page 20, Is is corrected to It is

Page 150, Raeuberhotle corrected to Raeuberhohle

Page 150, Zunweissen corrected to Zum Weissen (also in Index)

Page 158, paste corrected to pasta, "another pasta dish"

In the Index, added reference to Page 13 in the entry for Perdreau et Caille Paillard.

Some spellings and accents are used inconsistently throughout the text. They have been left as in the original since they are potentially intentional.