Part 1

THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT

The Taj Mahal at Agra. This Tomb, Built by Shah Jahan to Immortalize His Favorite Wife, Is Conceded to be the Most Beautiful Building in the World "Matchless, perfect in form, a miracle Of grace and tenderness and symmetry, Pearl-pure against the sapphire of the sky"]

THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT

GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH

AUTHOR OF "COMFORT FOUND IN GOOD OLD BOOKS" "MODERN ENGLISH BOOKS OF POWER" "THE CRITIC IN THE OCCIDENT"

East is East and West is West and never the twain shall meet, Till Earth and Sky stand presently at God's great Judgment Seat. --Kipling

ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS

PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY PUBLISHERS · SAN FRANCISCO

Copyright, 1913 by PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY

The chapters of this book appeared originally in the Sunday supplement of the San Francisco Chronicle. The privilege of reproducing them here is due to the courtesy of M. H. de Young, Esq.

The author is greatly indebted to Isaac O. Upham, Esq., for the fine photographs which illustrate the section on Japan and for several photographs of Indian scenes

TO MY FELLOW TOURISTS ON THE MINNESOTA, WHOSE COMPANIONSHIP MADE MANY TEDIOUS JOURNEYS BY LAND AND SEA ENJOYABLE

CONTENTS

PAGE

Introduction IX

The Best Results of Travel in the Orient XIII

Japan, The Picture Country of the Orient 1

First Impressions of Japan and the Life of the Japanese-- The Japanese Capital and its Parks and Temples--The Most Famous City of Temples in all Japan--In Kyoto, The Ancient Capital of Japan--Kobe, Osaka, The Inland Sea and Nagasaki--Development of the Japanese Sense of Beauty--Conclusions on Japanese Life and Character-- Will the Japanese Retain Their Good Traits?

Manila, Transformed by the Americans 49

First Impressions of Manila and Its Picturesque People-- American Work in the Philippine Islands--Scenes in the City of Manila and Suburbs.

Hongkong, Canton, Singapore and Rangoon 63

Hongkong, the Greatest British Port in the Orient--A Visit to Canton in Days of Wild Panic--Singapore, the Meeting Place of Many Races--strange Night Scenes in the City of Singapore--Characteristic Sights in Burma's Largest City.

India, The Land of Temples, Palaces and Monuments 93

Calcutta, the Most Beautiful of Oriental Cities--Bathing, and Burning the Dead at Benares--Lucknow and Cawnpore, Cities of the Mutiny--The Taj Mahal, the World's Loveliest Building--Delhi and Its Ancient Mohammedan Ruins--Scenes in Bombay When the King Arrived--Religion and Customs of the Bombay Parsees.

Egypt, The Home of Hieroglyphs, Tombs and Mummies 135

Picturesque Oriental Life as Seen in Cairo--Among the Ruins of Luxor and Karnak--Tombs of The Kings at Ancient Thebes--Sailing Down the Nile on a Small Steamer--Before the Pyramids and the Sphinx.

Hints for Travelers 167

Some Suggestions That May Save the Tourist Time and Money.