The Albert N'yanza, Great Basin of the Nile, and Explorations of the Nile Sources

CHAPTER I.. The Expedition.

THE EXPEDITION.

Programme--Start from Cairo--Arrive at Berber--Plan of Exploration-- The River Atbara--Abyssinian Affluents--Character of Rivers--Causes of Nile Inundations--Violence of the Rains--Arrival at Khartoum-- Description of Khartoum--Egyptian Authorities--Taxes--The Soudan-- Slave-Trade of the Soudan--Slave-Trade of the White Nile--System of Operations--Inhuman Proceedings--Negro Allies--Revelations of Slave-Trade--Distant Slave Markets--Prospects of the Expedition-- Difficulties at the Outset--Opposition of the Egyptian Authorities-- Preparations for Sailing--Johann Schmidt--Demand for Poll-Tax-- Collision before starting--Amiable Boy!--The Departure--The Boy Osman --Banks of White Nile--Change in Disposition of Men--Character of the River--Misery of Scene--River Vegetation--Ambatch Wood--Johann's Sickness--Uses of Fish-skin--Johann Dying--Johann's Death--New Year --Shillook Villages--The Sobat River--Its Character--Bahr Giraffe-- Bahr el Gazal--Observations--Corporal Richarn--Character of Bahr el Gazal--Peculiarity of River Sobat--Tediousness of Voyage--Bull Buffalo--Sali Achmet killed--His Burial--Ferocity of the Buffalo-- "The Clumsy" on the Styx--Current of White Nile--First View of Natives --Joctian and his Wife--Charming Husband--Natron--Catch a Hippopotamus--"Perhaps it was his Uncle"--Real Turtle is Mock Hippopotamus--Richarn reduced to the Ranks--Arrival at the Zareeba-- Fish Spearing--The Kytch Tribe--White Ant Towers--Starvation in the Kytch Country--Destitution of the Natives--The Bull of the Herd--Men and Beasts in a bad Temper--Aboukooka--Austrian Mission Station--Sale of the Mission-House--Melancholy Fate of Baron Harnier--The Aliab Tribes--Tulmuli of Ashes--The Shir Tribe--The Lotus Harvest--Arrival at Gondokoro--Discharge Cargo

CHAPTER II.. Bad Reception At Gondokoro.

BAD RECEPTION AT GONDOKORO.

Reports of Speke and Grant--The Bari Tribe--Description of the Natives --Effects of poisoned Arrows--Hostility of the Bari Tribe--Atrocities of the Trading Parties--Lawlessness at Gondokoro-A Boy shot--The first Mutiny--Decision of my Wife--The Khartoum Escort--Arrival of Speke and Grant--Gladness at meeting them--Their Appearance--Speke and Grant's Discoveries--Another Lake reported to exist--Speke's Instructions--Arrange to explore the Luta N'zige--Scarcity at Gondokoro--Speke and Grant depart to Khartoum

CHAPTER III.. Gun Accident.

GUN ACCIDENT.

Gun Accident--Birds ruin the Donkeys--Arrangement with Mahommed--His Duplicity--Plot to obstruct my Advance--The Boy Saat--History of Saat --First Introduction to Saat--Turned out by Mistake--Saat's Character --Something brewing--Mutiny of Escort--Preparation for the worst-- Disarm the Mutineers--Mahommed's Desertion--Arrangement with Koorshid Aga--The last Hope gone--Expedition ruined--Resolution to advance-- Richarn faithful--Bari Chief's Report--Parley with Mutineers-- Conspiracy again--Night Visit of Fadeela--"Quid pro Quo"--"Adda," the Latooka--Arrange to start for Latooka--Threats of Koorshid's People-- Determination to proceed--Start from Gondokoro--My own Guide.

CHAPTER IV.. First Night's March.

FIRST NIGHT'S MARCH.

Bivouacking--Arrival at Belignan--Attempts at Conciliation--I shame my Men--The March--Advantages of Donkeys--Advice for Travellers-- Want of Water--A forced March--Its Difficulties--Delays on the Road-- Cleverness of the Donkeys--Party dead-beat--Improvidence of Monkey-- We obtain Water--Native Tit-Bits--Surrounded by Natives-- Cross-Examination--Recognition of the Chief--Interest of Natives--The Monkey Wallady--We leave Tollogo--The Ellyria Pass--A Race for Ellyria--Ellyrian Villages palisaded--Outmarched by the Turks-- Ibrahim and his Men--Attempt at Reconciliation--Diplomacy--Peace established--Arrive at Ellyria--Legge, the Chief of Ellyria--Presents to Ibrahim--Legge's Intemperance--Violent Storm--No Supplies-- Formation of Skulls.

CHAPTER V.. Leave Ellyria.

LEAVE ELLYRIA.

We leave Ellyria--Brutality towards the Women--Order of March-- Bellaal--Drainage towards the Sobat--Game at Wakkala--Delightful Scenery--Latooka Thieves--Stalking Antelopes--Chase after Waterbuck-- Good Service of Rifle--The Turks' Salute--Treacherous Welcome-- Mahommed Her--Quarrelling among the Traders--The Latooka Mutiny-- Settle the Ringleader--Stop the Mutiny--I pursue a Fugitive, and interpose on his behalf--Held in some Estimation--Desertion of Men-- The Natives of Latooka--Their probable Origin--Tribes hard to distinguish--Tarrangolle--Native Architecture--Exhumation of the Dead --Coiffure of Natives--Hair Helmets of Latooka--Fighting Bracelets-- The Latooka Women--The Chief's Introduction--"Moy" and his Ladies-- Bokke proposes to improve Mrs. Baker--Bokke and Daughter--Extraction of the front Teeth--The Value of Wives--Cows of more value than Women --Destruction of Mahommed Her's People--Death of my Deserters--My Prophecy realized--Apprehensive of an Attack--The Turks insult the Women--Ill Conduct of the Turks--Well done, Bokke!--Results of the Turks' Misconduct--Interview with Commoro--Awkward Position--The Latooka War Signal--Preparations for Defence--We await the Attack-- Parley--Too "wide awake"--Camp at Tarrangolle--Scarcity in view of Plenty--Wild Duck Shooting--The Crested Crane, &c.--Adda's Proposal-- Obtuseness of Natives--Degraded State of Natives.

CHAPTER VI.. The Funeral Dance.

THE FUNERAL DANCE.

A Funeral Dance--Bari Interpreters--Commoro, the Lion--Conversation with Commoro--"Where will the Spirit live?"--"Good and bad all die"-- Failure of the religious Argument--Further Conversation--The Camel poisoned--Habits of the Camel--Camel's peculiar Constitution--The Hygeen, or riding Dromedary--Loss of Camel a Misfortune--Dirty Donkeys

CHAPTER VII.. Latooka.

LATOOKA.

Herds of the Latookas and Game--Storm--Effects of Rain upon Natives-- Native Blacksmiths--Their Tools--Elephants--Elephant Hunt--Tetel, my old Hunter--Charged by a herd of Elephants--Cowardly Followers--Track the wounded Elephant--Nearly caught--Tetel distressed--Return to Camp --African and Indian Elephants--Height of Elephants--Food of Elephants --African and Ceylon Elephants--Difference in Formation of Brain-- Rifles and Bullets for heavy Game--Character of Country and its Sports --The "Baby"--Method of killing Elephants--Elephant Pitfalls-- Circling them with Fire--Native Hunting--The Bagara Hunters--Danger of Elephant Hunting

CHAPTER VIII.. Ibrahim's Return.

IBRAHIM's RETURN.

The African Black--Comparison between Whites and Blacks--Varieties in Creation--The Negro--Character of the Negro-Originated African Slave System--Indisposition to Work--Negro Slave Hunters--Ibrahimawa; or, Sinbad the Sailor--Makkarika Cannibals--My daily Employments-- Quarrels with the Latookas--Parley with Latooka Chiefs--The Latookas seize a Gun--Helplessness in an Advance--Hope to the South--Journey to Obbo--Uncomfortable Night--Enter the Mountains--Beautiful Scenery --Arrive at Obbo--Natives of Obbo--Butter Nuts and Fruits--Pottery and Utensils--Natural Features of Obbo--Katchiba, Chief of Obbo-- Entertained with a Dance--Women of Obbo--Languages of Tribes-- Katchiba's Diplomacy--Katchiba "always at Home"--Family Government-- The great Magician--Reconnaissance to the South--Mrs. Baker's Dwelling --An Upset--Loss of Filfil--My Bivouac--Ceremony of Welcome at Farajoke--Elevated Country at Farajoke--Stopped by the Asua--Return to Obbo--Gallantry of Katchiba--Katchiba determines to ride--First Attempts at Horsemanship--Recover the lost Horse--Ceremony at parting with Katchiba--Return to Latooka--Discovery of supposed Yams--Beware of Botanists--Baboons--The Maharif Antelope--The Giraffe--Hunting Giraffes--Unsuccessful Hunt--Benighted--Regain the Party-- Bread-baking on the March--Sickness; Small-pox--Wani, the Interpreter --First Clue to the Lake--Brown Men are called White

CHAPTER IX.. The Turks Attack Kayala.

THE TURKS ATTACK KAYALA.

The "Pleasant Robber" killed--Division of the Spoil--Discord among the Natives--The Life of Women spared in War--Scarcity of Salt, among the Latookas--Another Cause of Alarm--The Turks murder a Native--Country disturbed--Good Sport--Two Thieves--Ibrahimawa's Reminiscences of England--Party recalled to Obbo--White Ants--Destructiveness of Birds --Cattle Stealers at Night--A Thief shot--My Wife ill with Fever-- March to Obbo--Great Puff Adder--Poison-fangs of Snakes--Violent Storm--Arrive again at Obbo--Hostility caused by the Turks--The M.D. attends us--Death of "Mouse"--Marauding Expedition--Saat becomes scientific--Saat and Gaddum Her--Will England suppress the Slave Trade?--Filthy Customs of the Natives--The Egyptian Scarabaeus-- Bacheeta, the Unyoro Slave--Intelligence of the Lake--Its probable Commercial Advantages--Commerce with the Interior--Obbo the Clothing Frontier--Death of my last Camel--Excellent Species of Gourd--A Morning Call in Obbo--Katchiba's Musical Accomplishments--Loss of remaining Donkey--Deceived by the Turks--Fever--Symptoms--Dismal Prospect, "Coming Events," &c.

CHAPTER X.. Life At Obbo.

LIFE AT OBBO.

Physician in General--Influence gained over the People--Katchiba is applied to for Rain--"Are you a Rainmaker?"--Katchiba takes Counsel's Opinion--Successful Case--Night-watch for Elephants--Elephant killed --Dimensions of the Elephant--Wild Boars--Start for the South--Mrs. Baker thrown from her Ox--The Asua River--Stalking Mehedehet Antelope --A Prairie Fire--Tracking an Antelope--Turks' Standard-bearer killed --Arrival at Shooa--The Neighbourhood of Shooa--Fruitfulness of Shooa --Cultivation and Granaries--Absconding of Obbo Porters--"Wheels within Wheels"--Difficulty in starting South--Departure from Shooa-- Fatiko Levee--Boundless Prairies--Fire the Prairies--Deceit of the Guide--Arrive at the Victoria Nile--Arrive at Rionga's Country--Start for Karuma--The Karuma Falls--Welcome by Kamrasi's People--Passage of the River forbidden--To await Reply of Kamrasi--The Natives' Dread of Kamrasi--They hold a Conference--Resolve to cross the River alone-- The Ferry of Atada--Reception by Keedja--I lull the Suspicions of the Natives--Appellations of Speke and Grant--Freemasonry of Unyoro-- Native Curiosity--The Bark Cloth of Unyoro--Comparative Civilization of Unyoros--Native Pottery--The Bottle Gourds used as Models--"Great Men never in a Hurry to pay Visits"--Pronounced to be Speke's Brother-- The Escort cross the River--Neatness of the Natives in packing--Native Manufactures--March parallel with the Victoria Nile--Severe Illness of Mrs. Baker--March to the Capital--Kamrasi suspects Treachery--Arrive at last at the Capital--Imprisoned on the Marsh--Expectation of an Attack--Kamrasi makes a State Visit--Conversation with the King--His Reception of my Presents--Another Interview with Kamrasi--Exchange Blood and become Friends--Avarice of the King--Permitted to leave our Fever-bed--Ibrahim and Party return North--Sulkiness of Bacheeta-- Attempt to barter for Speke's Rifle--Rapacity of the Chiefs.

CHAPTER XI.. The Start for the Lake.

THE START FOR THE LAKE.

Despicable Conduct of the King--Pertinacity of Kamrasi--Kamrasi's Infamous Proposal--Resentment of the King's Insolence--The King's Apology--Expectation of a Fight--Kamrasi's Satanic Escort--The Rout at a Gun-shot--A disagreeable Escort--Passage of the Kafoor--Mrs. Baker receives a Sun-stroke--Dismissal of the brutal Escort--Misery and Distress--Return to Consciousness, but afflicted with Brain-fever

CHAPTER XII.. Recovered.

RECOVERED.

The Sugarcane indigenous--Unyoro People clean Feeders--Close to the Lake--Discovery of the Albert N'yanza--Gratitude to Providence-- Denominate it "The Albert N'yanza"--Fishing Tackle--The Lake declared to be the Sea--Feast in honour of the Discovery--Survey of the Lake-- Geography of the Lake--Countries bordering the Lake--The Great Basin of the Nile--Sources of the Nile--Affluents of the Albert Lake--Our whole party Fever-stricken--Yearning for Home--Arrange Canoes for Lake Voyage--Start from Vacovia--Voyage upon the Lake--Shore Encampment-- Deserted by the Boatmen--No Pilot--Endeavour to civilize the Canoes-- Adapt a Scotch Plaid for a Sail--Natives volunteer as Boatmen--Storm on the Lake--Nearly swamped--Land safely on Shore--Falls of the Kaiigiri River--Shoot a Crocodile--Taste of Crocodile Flesh-- Discomforts of Lake Voyage--Elephants in the Lake--Inhospitable Natives--Procure Supplies--The Lake changes its character--Arrival at Magungo--Embouchure of the Somerset River--Fish and Fishing--The Baggera and Lepidosiren Annecteus--Native Fishing Arrangements--Exit of the Nile from the Lake--Nile navigable from Lake to Madi--The Victoria Nile at Magungo--Determination to settle Nile Question--Nobly seconded by Mrs. Baker--Leave Magungo--Voyage up the Victoria Nile-- Stricken again with Fever--Guided by Waterplants--Numerous Crocodiles --The Murchison Falls--Hippopotamus charges the Canoe--Narrow Escape from Crocodiles--Arrival of Oxen, but not the Guide--Loss of Oxen from Fly-bite--Sickness on the March--The Island of Patooan--Information about Ibrahim--Difference in the Level--Difference in Observations-- Altitudes

CHAPTER XIII.. Treacherous Designs of the Natives.

TREACHEROUS DESIGNS OF THE NATIVES.

Confined in the Country--Determine to proceed--Deserted by the Natives --Discovery of a "Tullaboon" Granary--Misery at Shooa Moru--Hard Fare --Preparation for Death--Kamrasi's Tactics--The Bait takes--We are carried to the King's Camp--Rejoin the Turks' Detachment--Their Welcome--Kamrasi seeks my Alliance--Deception of Kamrasi--M'Gambi has impersonated the King--The real Kamrasi--Prefer seeing Meat to a King --The begging Envoy--Carried to the Camp of Kamrasi--Introduction to the real King--Description of Kamrasi--The Native Court

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