Part 100

Occasionally, we see a blonde in whom this deepening process has turned the hair to a golden brown, brought out the warm golden tints of the skin, and with it the blue eyes. Here the mistake is often made of ignoring the blue eyes. This should never be done. Fawns and old golds are good for this type. Browns, deep, rich pinks, blues, all greens but the palest, bluish grays, cream-white and pansy-purple.

Gray Hair.

Premature gray hair has a picturesque and charming effect, often giving beauty to what might otherwise prove a commonplace countenance. There are several types to be considered. Greenish gray hair, premature or natural, accompanied with brown, or dark gray eyes, and a skin in which the brownish tints prevail, can wear all dark greens and olives, blue, browns, and dark amber, warm yellows and dark, dusky reds, yellowish-pinks, dark blues and purple, especially the brownish-purples, also cream-white. Gray or black is to be avoided. This range of color will, of course, be chosen from, in accordance with the age of the wearer. For jewels, reddish topaz, and amethyst are beautiful for this type, and tea-roses a most effective flower.

Gray hair with a lighter, clear complexion and, perhaps, some color in the cheeks, can wear the loveliest harmonies in grays. Black can also be adopted and any of the first mentioned colors except brown.

A pale complexion with gray or blue and snowy hair, will be elegant in the black of lace or velvet.

Prematurely gray with fine clear complexion, either pale or roseate, together with blue eyes, is a magnificent type. The gray hair gives the brilliancy of powder, and diamonds combined with turquoise can be worn with fine effect; pearls also.

The Black Gown.

Women, as a rule, consider their wardrobe incomplete unless it embraces at least one good black gown. "So very convenient, you know, and suitable for so many occasions." In many respects this is very true. But there are several points to be considered. First, there are some types that should never wear black. Again, there are others that must carefully discriminate between the black of velvet, wool, satin, or lace, and the transparent black of grenadine and gauze. While to all comes the caution that, after thirty years of age, no woman can safely wear all black without thereby ageing her face.

Black certainly whitens the skin by contrast, but it brings out and deepens every line. Only plump, fair, unlined faces can safely bear the contrast.

In wearing black, the material whose tone is most becoming to the skin, must be chosen. For instance, very few skins can bear the glossy black of satin with its reflected lights. Black, however, may be softened by a profusion of cream laces or jetted until it scintillates with every motion, and for evening wear the bodice may be cut low, thus removing it from direct contrast with the face.

Various Hints.

Blondes may, if they choose, wear yellows in harmony with their hair. This possibility was first daringly acted upon by Worth with most charming results.

Blue eyes can always be deepened by wearing the appropriate shade of blue. White can be worn by women of all ages, and in almost all materials is it becoming. For evening wear and for day wear it is most satisfactory. Southern women make a point of dressing in it altogether.

For evening wear, where the complexion renders it possible, a very pretty effect is produced by wearing colors that relate or melt into the skin tints, such as pinky browns, soft drabs, ashes of roses or warm, creamy tints, like the heart of a tea-rose.

The Choice of Colors.

Much more lies in choosing a becoming color than people generally imagine. There is an old story told about some celebrated man, whose lifelong devotion to his wife was considered somewhat remarkable, as she was a very plain woman. One of his friends asked him what had been the first thing about her that had attracted him. He said: "A pink shawl that was lying on the back of the chair in which she was sitting made so pleasing a contrast to the white frock she wore that I thought only of that, and upon asking for an introduction to her solely on account of the pink shawl, I was then introduced to a wonderful fascination of manner and grace of mind which have enthralled me ever since."

A woman's surroundings of necessity play a great part in her appearance, but it does not by any means follow that luxurious furnishings have any more effect than the very simplest and plainest, particularly if they do not throw out well the beauty of the coloring. What shades of ribbon to choose, what colors to wear are far more serious matters than the majority of people realize.

The most stunning gown in the world, if it be unbecoming, will not be half so efficacious as the simplest and plainest of gowns of a becoming color and cut. This is emphatically a picturesque era, and wide latitude is allowed in the choice of what is becoming. But big hats, big sleeves, very stand-out skirts and a general fashion-plate air do not do for every woman, and she who has her gown made on the simplest possible lines will create more sensation in a roomful of very much gotten-up women than if she attempted to vie with them.

Harmony and Contrast of Colors.

The following is a list of colors which contrast and harmonize:

White contrasts with black and harmonizes with gray.

White contrasts with brown and harmonizes with buff.

White contrasts with blue and harmonizes with sky-blue.

White contrasts with purple and harmonizes with rose.

White contrasts with green and harmonizes with pea-green.

Cold greens contrast with crimson and harmonize with olive.

Cold greens contrast with purple and harmonize with citrine.

Cold greens contrast with white and harmonize with blues.