When the tile field is underlain by stratified rock or where under-drainage is necessary, advice should be sought from the public health authorities, as regulations in some States may not permit the use of certain methods.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF SEPTIC TANKS
A septic tank when first used does not need starters, such as yeast, to promote bacterial action. A good septic tank normally requires no maintenance other than a yearly inspection and an occasional cleaning. Frequency of cleaning depends on the capacity of the tank and the quantity and composition of the sewage. Tanks of the size recommended in this bulletin may require cleaning at intervals of 3 to 5 years.
The tank should be cleaned when 18 to 20 inches of sludge and scum has accumulated. If a drain has not been provided, sludge may be removed by bailing or by pumping with a sludge or bilge pump. It is not necessary to remove the entire liquid contents. Burial in a shallow pit or trench with at least 18 to 24 inches of earth cover at a point remote from water sources is the most practical method for disposing of these wastes.
A septic tank is intended to handle sewage only. Coffee grounds and ground garbage may be included if there is an ample supply of water for flushing and the tank is cleaned more frequently than would otherwise be done. The size of the tank should be increased at least 25 percent if these materials are included in the sewage.
=Do not use matches or an open flame to inspect a septic tank, as the gasses produced by decomposing sewage may explode and cause serious injury.=
EFFECT OF DRAIN SOLVENTS AND OTHER MATERIALS
Soap, drain solvents, and other mild cleaning or disinfecting solutions used for normal household purposes cause no trouble in the tank. Constant use in large quantities, however, and disinfected wastes from the sickroom may prove harmful.
Wastes from milk rooms, strong chemicals used in sterilizing equipment or in photographic work, and the wastes from filters or water softeners not only reduce bacterial action but also cause abnormally rapid accumulations of sludge and clogging of the tile lines.
PROTECTION AGAINST FREEZING
Septic-tank systems seldom freeze when in constant use. Warm water and the decomposition of the sewage usually maintain above-freezing temperatures. In cold regions there is trouble from freezing if various parts of the system are not covered adequately. If the system is to be out of service for a period of time or if exposure is severe, it may be advisable to mound over the poorly protected parts of the system with earth, hay, straw, brush, leaves, manure, snow, or the like.
In cold regions it is not advisable to install the entire system below frost depth, as this will remove the effluent from the action of the aerobic bacteria in the upper layers of the soil and make the system generally less accessible.
New systems put into operation during very cold weather may freeze unless large quantities of hot water are discharged during the first few weeks.
SEPTIC-TANK TROUBLES
In sewage disposal, clogging of the disposal field is the most common trouble. This may be caused (1) by a tank too small for the volume of sewage, (2) by failure to clean the tank regularly, (3) by interior arrangement that does not provide slow flow through the tank or that allows scum or sludge to pass out with the effluent, or (4) by a disposal field that is too small or is incorrectly built.
The remedy for a clogged disposal field is to dig up and clean the tiles and re-lay them 3 or 4 feet to one side or the other of their former position. Sometimes a tile line can be cleaned by opening up the line at each end and flushing it thoroughly with a hose. With this method provision must be made to drain off and safely dispose of the water used for flushing.
Tile lines laid with improper slope allow the effluent to collect in a limited area and saturate the soil, causing odors. Bacteria cannot work in such areas, where the soil becomes sour, or "sewage-sick." These lines must be relaid on the correct slope. Odors or a water-logged soil may also indicate that the disposal field is too small.
House sewers frequently clog. This is due, in most cases, to roots and less frequently to trash, garbage, or other foreign materials discharged with the sewage. Greases in the sewer may cause trouble, especially when the slope is insufficient to give the sewage a cleansing velocity. Drain solvents will sometimes remove the obstruction, but more often it is necessary to clean the sewer by rodding. In some cases it may be necessary to dig up the line to reach the obstruction or, at least, to open the line so that it can be rodded from two directions. When it has been cleaned, a manhole could be built for use in case of future trouble. If stoppage is due to roots it may be necessary to re-lay the sewer with root-tight joints, or to move either the sewer or the vegetation so that roots cannot reach the line.
GREASE TRAPS
Grease traps (fig. 11) are not recommended for the average farm, because they clog easily and require frequent cleaning, but they are desirable for boarding houses and tourist camps where large quantities of grease are produced. The septic tank if of proper design and size will take care of the normal grease from most farm kitchens.
The traps must be several times larger than the quantity of greasy water discharged into them at any one time, in order to allow the greases to rise, but they should not be of less than 30 gallons' capacity.
The trap is best located in an accessible place in the basement or under the house close to the source of grease and safe from frost. Outdoor locations at shallow depths require a covering for insulation against freezing. Grease traps should be connected to the kitchen sink only and not to laundry, shower, or water-closet wastes. They must be cleaned periodically for satisfactory operation, and the outlet should be properly trapped.
DISPOSAL OF DRAINAGE FROM FIXTURES OTHER THAN TOILETS
When the farmhouse does not have an indoor toilet but does have a kitchen sink or other similar fixtures, the drainage can be disposed of as shown in figure 12. Even where septic tanks have been installed, it is sometimes advisable to have a second disposal field for other fixtures than the toilet, to avoid overloading the tank, especially where large quantities of laundry water are discharged at one time.
These wastes are not likely to create serious health hazards, but they become nuisances if discharged promiscuously on the ground surface. Such drainage should never be permitted on the watershed of a spring.
Coarse sand and gravel, 12 to 18 inches deep, may be placed on the bottom of the pit, to strain out small particles of solids, which might clog the pores of the soil. If, after a few years, the sand or gravel becomes clogged with solids, it should be replaced with clean materials.
If excessive quantities of grease are permitted to enter the sink drain, a grease trap may be advisable.
CESSPOOLS
Sewage and Garbage Disposal on the Farm · The Wunder Library — complete classics, free to read, with narration.