Royal Edinburgh

CHAPTER III

THE SHAKSPEARE OF SCOTLAND 491

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

ST. GILES'S FROM THE LAWNMARKET Frontispiece

ROYAL EDINBURGH xiv

QUEEN MARGARET'S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH CASTLE 1

PILLAR IN NAVE, DUNFERMLINE ABBEY 5

DUNFERMLINE ABBEY 7

WEST TOWER, DUNFERMLINE ABBEY 11

THE NAVE, DUNFERMLINE ABBEY--LOOKING WEST 13

QUEEN MARGARET'S CAVE 15

WEST DOORWAY, DUNFERMLINE ABBEY 17

INTERIOR OF QUEEN MARGARET'S CHAPEL, EDINBURGH CASTLE 25

ARMS OF QUEEN MARGARET OF SCOTLAND 37

THE BASS ROCK 53

HOLYROOD 77

EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM THE SOUTH-WEST 81

INNER BARRIER, EDINBURGH CASTLE 87

EDINBURGH CASTLE FROM THE VENNEL 97

ST. ANTHONY'S CHAPEL AND ST. MARGARET'S LOCH 115

MONS MEG 123

THE CANONGATE TOLBOOTH 127

ARMS OF JAMES IV OF SCOTLAND 155

OLD HOUSE IN LAWNMARKET 161

ST. ANTHONY'S CHAPEL 165

OLD HOUSES AT HEAD OF WEST BOW 171

BAKEHOUSE CLOSE 183

WHITE HORSE CLOSE 195

SALISBURY CRAGS 201

REID'S CLOSE, CANONGATE 211

DOORWAY, SIR A. AITCHESON'S HOUSE 217

LINLITHGOW PALACE 227

FALKLAND PALACE 253

ST. ANDREWS 287

KNOX'S HOUSE, HIGH STREET 307

HOLYROOD PALACE AND ARTHUR'S SEAT 311

LOCHLEVEN 331

QUEEN MARY'S BATH 335

WEST DOORWAY, HOLYROOD CHAPEL 341

DOORWAY, HOLYROOD PALACE 349

MORAY HOUSE, CANONGATE 359

THE PENDS, ST. ANDREWS 365

INTERIOR OF ST. GILES'S 369

KNOX'S PULPIT 372

NORTH DOORWAY, HERIOT'S HOSPITAL 381

STIRLING CASTLE 417

GREYFRIARS CHURCHYARD 433

EDINBURGH: GENERAL VIEW 437

ALLAN RAMSAY'S SHOP 439

CROWN OF ST. GILES'S 445

SMOLLETT'S HOUSE 453

ALLAN RAMSAY'S HOUSE 461

ALLAN RAMSAY'S MONUMENT 469

DOORWAY, LADY STAIR'S CLOSE 471

LADY STAIR'S CLOSE 477

DUGALD STEWART'S MONUMENT 483

BURNS'S MONUMENT 489

ST. GILES'S FROM PRINCES STREET 493

THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH 497

PLAYFAIR'S MONUMENT, CALTON HILL 503

SIR WALTER SCOTT'S HOUSE 515

GEORGE STREET, EDINBURGH 519

SIR WALTER SCOTT 520

ROYAL EDINBURGH

PART I. Margaret of Scotland, Atheling--Queen and Saint

MARGARET OF SCOTLAND, ATHELING--QUEEN AND SAINT

It is strange yet scarcely difficult to the imagination to realise the first embodiment of what is now Edinburgh in the far distance of the early ages. Neither Pict nor Scot has left any record of what was going on so far south in the days when the king's daughters, primitive princesses with their rude surroundings, were placed for safety in the castrum puellarum, the maiden castle, a title in after days proudly (but perhaps not very justly) adapted to the supposed invulnerability of the fortress perched upon its rock. Very nearly invulnerable, however, it must have been in the days before artillery; too much so at least for one shut-up princess, who complained of her lofty prison as a place without verdure. If we may believe, notwithstanding the protest of that much-deceived antiquary the Laird of Monkbarns, that these fair and forlorn ladies were the first royal inhabitants of the Castle of Edinburgh, we may imagine that they watched from their battlements more wistfully than fearfully, over all the wide plain, what dust might rise or spears might gleam, or whether any galley might be visible of reiver or rescuer from the north. A little collection of huts or rude forts here and there would be all that broke the sweeping line of Lothian to the east or west, and all that width of landscape would lie under the eyes of the watchers, giving long notice of the approach of any enemies. "Out over the Forth I look to the north," the maidens might sing, looking across to Dunfermline, where already there was some royal state, or towards the faint lines of mountains in the distance, over the soft swelling heights of the Lomonds. No doubt Edinburgh, Edwinesburgh, or whatever the antiquaries imagine it to have been, must have been sadly dull if safe, suspended high upon the rock, nearer heaven than earth. It is curious to hear that it was "without verdure"; but perhaps the young ladies took no account of the trees that clothed the precipices below them, or the greenness that edged the Nor' Loch deep at their feet, but sighed for the gardens and luxuriance of Dunfermline, where all was green about their windows and the winding pathways of the dell of Pittendreich would be pleasant to wander in. This first romantic aspect of the Castle of Edinburgh is, however, merely traditional, and the first real and authentic appearance of the old fortress and city in history is in the record, at once a sacred legend and a valuable historical chronicle, of the life of Margaret the Atheling, the first of several Queen Margarets, the woman saint and blessed patroness of Scotland, who has bequeathed not only many benefits and foundations of after good to her adopted country, but her name--perhaps among Scotswomen still the most common of all Christian names.

No more moving and delightful story was ever written or invented than the history of this saint and Queen. She was the daughter of Edward, called the Outlaw, and of his wife a princess of Hungary, of the race which afterwards produced St. Elizabeth: and the sister of Edgar Atheling, the feeble but rightful heir of the Saxon line, and consequently of the English throne. The family, however, was more foreign than English, having been brought up at the Court of their grandfather, the King of Hungary, one of the most pious and one of the richest Courts in Christendom; and it was not unnatural that when convinced of the fact that the most legitimate of aspirants had no chance against the force of William, they should prefer to return to the country of their education and birth. It was no doubt a somewhat forlorn party that set out upon this journey, for to lose a throne is seldom a misfortune accepted with equanimity, and several of the beaten and despondent Saxons had joined the royal exiles. Their voyage, however, was an unprosperous one, and after much beating about by winds and storms they were at last driven up the Firth of Forth, where their ship found shelter in the little bay at the narrowing of the Firth, which has since borne the name of St. Margaret's Hope.

Lying here in shelter from all the winds behind the protecting promontory, with perhaps already some humble shrine or hermit's cell upon Inchgarvie or Inchcolm to give them promise of Christian kindness, with the lonely rock of Edinburgh in the distance on one side, and the soft slopes of the Fife coast rising towards the King's palace at Dunfermline on the other, the travellers must have awaited with some anxiety, yet probably much hope, the notice of the barbaric people who came to the beach to stare at their weather-beaten ships, and hurried off to carry the news inland of such unwonted visitors. It is the very spot which is now disturbed and changed by the monstrous cobwebs of iron which bear the weight of the Forth Bridge and make an end for ever of the Queen's Ferry, which Margaret must have crossed so often, and by which a personage more familiar, Mr. Jonathan Oldbuck, once, as we all know, made his way to the North; but these are modern reflections such as have nothing to do with that primitive morning, fresh no doubt as to-day with sun and dew, when Malcolm's messengers came hurrying down to see what were these intruders, and what their purpose, and whether anything was to be apprehended from a visit apparently so unusual. The eager and curious emissaries had apparently no warrant to board the strangers, but gazed and wondered at the big ship and all its equipments, so unlike their own rude galleys; then hastened back again with an excited and exciting description of the greatness of the passengers on board and all their splendid array. Malcolm, cautious yet excited too, sent forth, as we are told in the Scotichronicon, "his wisest councillors" to make further inquiries. They too were astonished by the splendour of all they saw, and especially by the mien of a certain lady among these strangers, "whom, by her incomparable beauty, and the pleasantness of her jocund speech, I imagined to be the chief of the family," said the spokesman; "nor was it wonderful," adds the chronicler, "that they should believe her to be the chief who was destined to be Queen of Scotland and also heir of England." Perhaps it was the after light of these events that conveyed that high appreciation of Margaret's qualities into the story, for she must have been quite young, and it is very unlikely that in presence of her mother, and the brother whom they all considered as the King of England, a young girl, however gifted, would have taken upon her the chief place.

The report he received, however, had so much effect upon King Malcolm that he went himself to visit the strangers in their ship. He was not a mere barbaric prince, to be dazzled by the sight of these great persons, but no doubt had many a lingering recollection in his mind of Siward's great house in Northumberland, where he had taken refuge after his father's murder. It is curious and bewildering to go back in that dawn of national life to familiar Shaksperian regions, and to think that this primitive King who had so much in him of the savage, along with all his love and gentleness, was the son of that gracious Duncan who addressed his hostess like a kingly gentleman though her hospitality was to be so fatal. King Malcolm came down, no doubt with such state as he could muster, to see the wandering foreign princes. He was not unlearned, but knew Latin and the English tongue, though he could not read, as we are afterwards told. He had already reigned for fourteen years, after about as long a period of exile, so that he could not now be in his first youth, although he was still unmarried. He came down with his suite to the shore amid all the stir of the inquiring country folk, gathered about to see this strange thing--the ship with its unusual equipments, and the group of noble persons in their fine clothes who were to be seen upon the deck. The Athelings were carrying back with them to Hungary all the gifts with which the Emperor, Henry III, had loaded their father when he went to England, and had jewels and vessels of gold and many fine things unknown to the Scots. And Margaret, even though not so prominent as the chroniclers say, was evidently by the consent of all a most gracious and courteous young lady, with unusual grace and vivacity of speech. The grave middle-aged King, with his recollections of a society more advanced than his own, which probably had made him long for something better than his rude courtiers could supply, would seem at once to have fallen under the spell of the wandering princess. She was such a mate as a poor Scots King, badgered by turbulent clans, could scarcely have hoped to find--rich and fair and young, and of the best blood in Christendom. Whether the wooing was as short as the record we have no means of knowing, but in the same year, 1070, Margaret was brought with great rejoicing to Dunfermline, and there married to her King, amid the general joy.

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