Part 4

1. Bore a downslanting hole about 1/2 inch in diameter and 1 inch deep into the wood near the place where a larva is working.

2. Insert a tight-fitting metal or glass tube in the hole. Let about 1/4 inch of the tube project.

3. Place one end of a rubber tube over the projecting portion of the metal or glass tube, and connect the other end with a funnel. The funnel should be supported so that it will stay in place until the treatment has been completed.

4. Pour insecticide into the funnel. Use any of the preparations mentioned in the discussion of spraying and brushing. Leave the equipment in place about 48 hours, or until the insecticide is taken up. The insecticide flows into the infested wood, is absorbed for a distance of several inches around the hole, and reaches and kills the larva.

If several larvae are working in places as much as 18 inches apart, individual treatment is needed.

=Fumigation=

Treatment of a heavy infestation of powder-post beetles by spraying or brushing or by the slow-diffusion method is impractical where the wood is hard to reach; particularly when it is located behind plastered walls or covered by paneling or insulation.

Such an infestation can be controlled by fumigation--but this work must be done by a licensed fumigator.

Hydrocyanic acid gas or methyl bromide gas is used in fumigating. Each is very poisonous, and heavy dosages have to be used.

After fumigation, the building must be aired to make it safe for reoccupancy. The fumigating and the airing require 2 to 4 days.

Fumigation methods of the "home-remedy" type--such as burning sulfur candles--are ineffective because the fumigant does not penetrate the infested wood.

PRECAUTIONS

The insecticides mentioned in this leaflet are poisonous to people and to animals. Keep them where children and pets cannot reach them. Do not let them come in contact with the body. When applying them, wear rubber gloves, a cellulose acetate type of face-guard, and a rubber or leather apron. When spraying an overhead area, do not stand directly under it.

Guarding against explosions.--Apply a coarse spray. It is effective and safe to use. A concentrated fine mist is ineffective and may explode in the presence of a spark or flame. Do not smoke while spraying. Shut off pilot lights.

Pressure.--In spraying, use only enough pressure to wet the surface of the wood. Too much pressure may cause spray to splash onto the body. If you apply the insecticide in an enclosed place, make sure that the air can circulate freely. Keep doors and windows open; if necessary, use a fan. The purpose is to prevent odors from accumulating in the building.

If you treat a floor that has a finished ceiling under it--for example, the floor of a second-story room--avoid applying too much material. If you do, it may run through to the ceiling and cause a stain. Removal of the floor finish before applying the insecticide makes it unnecessary to apply a large amount; the wood absorbs most of it.

If you apply the oil solution to parquet flooring, do it very lightly. If you apply too much, the oil may dissolve the asphalt in which the flooring is set. The dissolved asphalt may stain the floor. Around the edges of the floor, it may "creep up" and damage the walls.

If you have applied insecticide with a garden sprayer, rinse out the tank and hose before putting the sprayer away. This prevents the gaskets from shriveling and keeps oil from getting on plants the next time the sprayer is used in the garden.

Food cabinets.--In treating a food cabinet, do not use an insecticide because it might contaminate food. Use deodorized kerosene alone. It has little odor and evaporates quickly. Take the cabinet outdoors to treat it, and leave it there until the kerosene odor disappears.

Fumigation.--The fact that fumigation work must be done by a licensed operator is stated on page 7.

Only isolated buildings can be safely fumigated. If an apartment, a row house, or part of a duplex were fumigated, the gas might penetrate walls and kill persons in an adjoining unit.

Methyl bromide gas is odorless, but in the presence of articles having a high sulfur content, or containing animal matter, sponge rubber, or iodized salt, a chemical change takes place and a garliclike odor is apt to be given off later. Before this gas is used, see whether such articles are in the building; if they are, remove them. This need not be done if hydrocyanic acid gas is used. However, hydrocyanic acid gas tarnishes silver and spoils unexposed photographic film; before it is used, remove silver and film.

Prepared by R. A. St. George and T. McIntyre, entomologists,

Division of Forest insect Research, Forest Service

Washington, D.C. · Revised November 1959

U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1959

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office Washington 25, D.C. - Price 5 cents

Transcriber Note