Chapter xx.

THE PILGRIMAGE OF JOSEPH PITTS TO MECCAH AND AL-MADINAH.—A.D. 1680

OUR second pilgrim was Jos. Pitts, of Exon,[FN#1] a youth fifteen or sixteen years old, when in A.D. 1678, his genius “leading him to be a sailor and to see foreign countries,” caused him to be captured by an Algerine pirate. After living in slavery for some years, he was taken by his “patroon” to Meccah and Al-Madinah via Alexandria, Rosetta, Cairo, and Suez. His description of these places is accurate in the main points, and though tainted with prejudice and bigotry, he is free from superstition and credulity. Conversant with Turkish and Arabic, he has acquired more knowledge of the tenets and practice of Al-Islam than his predecessor, and the term of his residence at Algier, fifteen years, sufficed, despite the defects of his education, to give fulness and finish to his observations. His chief patroon, captain of a troop of

“God be merciful to me a Sinner!”

is the deprecation that precedes the account of his “turning Turk,” and the book concludes with,

“To him, therefore, Father, Son, and Holy Spirit, Three

Having received from his patroon, whom he acknowledges to have been a second parent to him, a letter of freedom at Meccah and having entered into pay, still living with his master, Pitts began to think of escape. The Grand Turk had sent to Algier for ships, and the renegade was allowed to embark on board one of them provided with a diplomatic letter[FN#2] from Mr. Baker, Consul of Algier, to Mr. Raye, Consul at Smyrna. The devil, we are told, was very busy with him in the Levant, tempting him to lay aside all thoughts of escaping, to return to Algier, and to continue a Mussulman, and the loss of eight months’ pay and certain other monies seems to have weighed heavily upon his soul. Still he prepared for the desperate enterprise, in which failure would have exposed him to be dragged about the streets on the stones till half dead, and then be burned to ashes in the Jews’ burial-place. A generous friend, Mr. Eliot, a Cornish merchant who had served some part of his apprenticeship in Exon and had settled at Smyrna, paid £4 for his passage in a French ship to Leghorn. Therefrom, in the evening before sailing, he went on board “apparel’d as an Englishman with his beard shaven, a campaign periwig, and a cane in his hand, accompanied with three or four of his friends. At Leghorn he prostrated himself, and kissed the earth, blessing Almighty God, for his mercy and goodness to him, that he once more set footing on the

The following passages are parts of the 7th and 8th chapters of Pitts’ little-known work.

“Next we came to Gidda, the nearest sea-port town to Mecca, not quite one day’s journey from it,[FN#4] where the ships are unloaded. Here we are met by Dilleels,[FN#5] i.e. certain persons who came from Mecca on purpose to instruct the Hagges, or pilgrims, in the ceremonies (most [p.362] of them being ignorant of them) which are to be used in their worship at the temple there; in the middle of which is a place which they call Beat Allah, i.e. the House of God. They say that Abraham built it; to which I give no credit.

“As soon as we come to the town of Mecca, the Dilleel, or guide, carries us into the great street, which is in the midst of the town, and to which the temple joins.[FN#6] After the camels are laid down, he first directs us to the Fountains, there to take Abdes[FN#7]; which being done, he brings us to the temple, into which (having left our shoes with one who constantly attends to receive them) we enter at the door called Bab-al-salem, i.e. the Welcome Gate, or Gate of Peace. After a few paces entrance, the Dilleel makes a stand, and holds up his hands towards the Beat-Allah (it being in the middle of the Mosque), the Hagges imitating him, and saying after him the same words which he speaks. At the very first sight of the Beat-Allah, the Hagges melt into tears, then we are led up to it, still speaking after the Dilleel; then we are led round it seven times, and then make two Erkaets.[FN#8] This being done, we are led into the street again, where we are sometimes to run and sometimes to walk very quick with the Dilleel from one place of the street to the other, about a bowshot.[FN#9] And I profess I could not chuse but admire to see those poor creatures so extraordinary devout, and affectionate, when they were about these superstitions, and with what awe and trembling they

“All the pilgrims hold it to be their great duty well to improve their time whilst they are at Mecca, not to do their accustomed duty and devotion in the temple, but to spend all their leisure time there, and as far as strength will permit to continue at Towoaf, i.e. to walk round the Beat-Allah, which is about four and twenty paces square. At one corner of the Beat, there is a black stone fastened and framed in with silver plate,[FN#11] and every time they come to that corner, they kiss the stone; and having gone round seven times they perform two Erkaets-nomas, or prayers. This stone, they say, was formerly white, and then it was called Haggar Essaed, i.e. the White Stone.[FN#12] But by reason of the sins of the multitudes of people who kiss it, it is become black, and is now called Haggar Esswaed, or the Black Stone.

“This place is so much frequented by people going round it, that the place of the Towoaf, i.e. the circuit which they take in going round it, is seldom void of people at any time of the day or night.[FN#13] Many have waited several weeks, nay months, for the opportunity of finding it so. For they say, that if any person is blessed with such an opportunity, that for his or her zeal in keeping up the honour of Towoaf, let they petition what they will at the Beat-Allah, they shall be answered. Many will walk round

“First, as to Mecca. It is a town situated in a barren place (about one day’s journey from the Red Sea) in a valley, or rather in the midst of many little hills. It is a place of no force, wanting both walls and gates. Its buildings are (as I said before) very ordinary, insomuch that it would be a place of no tolerable entertainment, were it not for the anniversary resort of so many thousand Hagges, or pilgrims, on whose coming the whole dependance of the town (in a manner) is; for many shops are scarcely open all the year besides.

The people here, I observed, are a poor sort of people, very thin, lean, and swarthy. The town is surrounded for several miles with many thousands of little hills, which are very near one to the other. I have been on the top of some of them near Mecca, where I could see some miles about, yet was not able to see the farthest of the hills. They are all stony-rock and blackish, and pretty near of a bigness, appearing at a distance like cocks of hay, but all pointing towards Mecca. Some of them are half a mile in circumference, but all near of one height. The people here have an odd and foolish sort of tradition concerning them, viz.: That when Abraham went about building the Beat-Allah, God by his wonderful providence did so order it, that every mountain in the world should contribute something to the building thereof; and accordingly every one did send its proportion; though there is a mountain near Algier, which is called Corradog, i.e. Black Mountain; and the reason of its blackness, they say, is because it did not send any part of itself towards building the temple at Mecca.[FN#16] Between

“There is upon the top of one of them a cave, which they term Hira,[FN#17] i.e. Blessing; into which (they say) Mahomet did usually retire for his solitary devotions, meditations, and fastings; and here they believe he had a great part of the Alcoran brought him by the Angel Gabriel. I have been in this cave, and observed that it is not at all beautified; at which I admired.

“About half a mile out of Mecca is a very steep hill, and there are stairs made to go to the top of it, where is a cupola, under which is a cloven rock; into this, they say, Mahomet, when very young, viz. about four years of age, was carried by the Angel Gabriel, who opened his breast, and took out his heart, from which he picked some black blood-specks, which was his original corruption; then put it into its place again, and afterwards closed up the part; and that during this operation Mahomet felt no pain.

“Into this very place I myself went, because the rest of my company did so, and performed some Erkaets, as they did.

“The town hath plenty of water, and yet but few herbs, unless in some particular places. Here are several sorts of good fruits to be had, viz. grapes, melons, watermelons, cucumbers, pumkins, and the like; but these are brought two or three days’ journey off, where there is a place of very great plenty, called, if I mistake not, Habbash.[FN#18] [p.367] Likewise sheep are brought hither and sold. So that as to Mecca itself, it affords little or nothing of comfortable provisions. It lieth in a very hot country, insomuch that people run from one side of the streets to the other to get into the shadow, as the motion of the sun causes it. The inhabitants, especially men, do usually sleep on the tops of the houses for the air, or in the streets before their doors. Some lay the small bedding they have on a thin mat on the ground; others have a slight frame, made much like drink-stalls on which we place barrels, standing on four legs, corded with palm cordage, on which they put their bedding. Before they bring out their bedding, they sweep the streets and water them. As for my own part, I usually lay open, without any bed-covering, on the top of the house: only I took a linen cloth, dipt in water, and after I had wrung it, covered myself with it in the night; and when I awoke I should find it dry; then I would wet it again: and thus I did two or three times in a night.

“Secondly, I shall next give you some account of the temple of Mecca.

“It hath about forty-two doors to enter into it, not so much, I think, for necessity, as figure; for in some places they are close by one another. The form of it is much resembling that of the Royal Exchange in London, but I believe it is near ten times bigger. It is all open and gravelled in the midst, except some paths that come from certain doors which lead to the Beat-Allah, and are paved with broad stones. The walks, or cloisters, all round are arched over-head, and paved beneath with fine broad stone; and all round are little rooms or cells, where such dwell and give themselves up to reading, studying, and a devout life, who are much akin to their dervises, or hermits.

“The Beat-Allah, which stands in the middle of the temple, is four-square, about twenty-four paces each

“This Beat-Allah is opened but two days in the space of six weeks, viz. one day for the men, and the next day for the women.[FN#21] As I was at Mecca about four months, I had the opportunity of entering into it twice; a reputed advantage, which many thousands of the Hagges have not met with, for those that come by land make no longer stay at Mecca than sixteen or seventeen days.

“When any enter into the Beat, all that they have to do is to perform two Erkaets on each side,[FN#22] with the holding up their two hands, and petitioning at the conclusion of each two Erkaets. And they are so very reverent and devout in doing this, that they will not suffer their eyes to wander and gaze about; for they account it very sinful so to do. Nay, they say that one was smitten blind for gazing about when in the Beat, as the reward of his vain and unlawful curiosity.[FN#23] I could not, for my part, give any credit to this story, but looked on it as a legendary relation, and, therefore, was resolved, if I could, to take my view of it; I mean not to continue gazing about it, but now and then to cast an observing eye. And I profess I found nothing worth seeing in it, only two wooden pillars in the midst, to keep up the roof,[FN#24] and a bar of iron fastened to them, on which hanged three or four silver lamps, which are, I suppose, but seldom,

“But to speak something further of the temple of Mecca (for I am willing to be very particular in matters about it, though in so being, I should, it may be, speak of things which by some people may be thought trivial). The compass of ground round the Beat (where the people exercise themselves in the duty of Towoaf) is paved with marble[FN#26] about 50 foot in breadth, and round this marble pavement stand pillars of brass about 15 foot high[FN#27] and

“On each of the four squares of the Beat is a little room built, and over every one of them is a little chamber with windows all round it, in which chambers the Emaums (together with the Mezzins) perform Sallah, in the audience of all the people which are below. These four chambers are built one at each square of the Beat, by reason that there are four sorts of Mahometans. The first are called Hanifee; most of them are Turks. The second Schafee[FN#28]; whose manners and ways the Arabians follow. The third Hanbelee; of which there are but few. The fourth Malakee; of which there are those that live westward of Egypt, even to the Emperor of Morocco’s country. These all agree in fundamentals, only there is some small difference between them in the ceremonial part.

“About twelve paces from the Beat is (as they say) the sepulchre of Abraham,[FN#29] who by God’s immediate command, they tell you, built this Beat-Allah; which

“I shall now inform you how, when, and where, they receive the honourable title of Hagges, for which they are at all this pains and expence.

“The Curbaen Byram, or the Feast of Sacrifice, follows two months and ten days after the Ramadan fast. The eighth day after the said two months they all enter into Hirrawem, i.e.} put on their mortifying habit again, and in that manner go to a certain hill called Gibbel el Orphat (El Arafat), i.e. the Mountain of Knowledge; for [p.374] there, they say, Adam first found and knew his wife Eve. And they likewise say, that she was buried at Gidda near the Red Sea; at whose sepulchre all the Hagges who come to Mecca by way of the Red Sea, perform two Erkaets-nomas, and, I think, no more. I could not but smile to hear this their ridiculous tradition (for so I must pronounce it), when observing the marks which were set, the one at the head, and the other at the foot of the grave: I guessed them to be a bow-shot distant from each other. On the middle of her supposed grave is a little Mosque built, where the Hagges pay their religious respect.

“This Gibbel or hill is not so big as to contain the vast multitudes which resort thither; for it is said by them, that there meet no less than 70,000 souls every year, in the ninth day after the two months after Ramadan; and if it happen that in any year there be wanting some of that number, God, they say, will supply the deficiency by so many angels.[FN#31]

“I do confess the number of Hagges I saw at this mountain was very great; nevertheless, I cannot think they could amount to so many as 70,000. There are certain bound-stones placed round the Gibbel, in the plain, to shew how far the sacred ground (as they esteem it) extends; and many are so zealous as to come and pitch their tents within these bounds, some time before the hour of paying their devotion here comes, waiting for it. But why they so solemnly approach this mountain beyond any other place, and receive from hence the title of Hagges, I confess I do not more fully understand than what I have already said, giving but little heed to these delusions. I observed nothing worth seeing on this hill, for there was only a small cupola on the top of it[FN#32]; [p.375] neither are there any inhabitants nearer to it than Mecca. About one or two of the clock, which is the time of Eulea-nomas, having washed and made themselves ready for it, they perform that, and at the same time perform Ekinde-nomas, which they never do at one time, but upon this occasion; because at the time when Ekinde-nomas should be performed in the accustomed order, viz. about four of the clock in the afternoon, they are imploring pardon for their sins, and receiving the Emaum’s benediction.[FN#33]

“It was a sight indeed, able to pierce one’s heart, to behold so many thousands in their garments of humility and mortification, with their naked heads, and cheeks watered with tears; and to hear their grievous sighs and sobs, begging earnestly for the remission of their sins, promising newness of life, using a form of penitential expressions, and thus continuing for the space of four or five hours, viz. until the time of Acsham-nomas, which is to be performed about half an hour after sunset. (It is matter of sorrowful reflection, to compare the indifference of many Christians with this zeal of these poor blind Mahometans, who will, it is to be feared, rise up in judgment against them and condemn them.) After their solemn performance of their devotions thus at the Gibbel, they all at once receive that honourable title of Hagge from the Emaum, and are so stiled to their dying day. Immediately upon their receiving this name, the trumpet is sounded, and they all leave the hill and return for Mecca, and being gone two or three miles on their way[,] they then rest for that night[FN#34]; but after nomas, before

“The next morning they move to a place called Mina, or Muna; the place, as they say, where Abraham went to offer up his son Isaac,[FN#35] and therefore in this place they sacrifice their sheep. It is about two or three miles from Mecca. I was here shown a stone, or little rock, which was parted in the middle. They told me, that when Abraham was going to sacrifice his son, instead of striking him, Providence directed his hand to this stone, which he clave in two. It must be a good stroke indeed!

“Here they all pitch their tents (it being in a spacious plain), and spend the time of Curbaen Byram, viz. three days. As soon as their tents are pitched, and all things orderly disposed, every individual Hagge, the first day, goes and throws seven of the small stones, which they had gathered, against a small pillar, or little square stone building.[FN#36] Which action of theirs is intended to testify their defiance of the devil and his deeds; for they at the same time pronounce the following words, viz. Erzum le Shetane wazbehe[FN#37]; i.e. stone the devil, and them that please him.[FN#38] And there are two other of the like pillars, which are situated near one another; at each of which

“These three days of Byram they spend festivally, rejoicing with abundance of illuminations all night, shooting of guns, and fireworks flying in the air; for they reckon that all their sins are now done away, and they shall, when they die, go directly to heaven, if they don’t apostatize; and that for the future, if they keep their vow and do well, God will set down for every good action ten; but if they do ill, God will likewise reckon every evil action ten: and any person, who, after having received the title of Hagge, shall fall back to a vicious course of life, is esteemed to be very vile and infamous by them.[FN#39]

“Some have written, that many of the Hagges, after they have returned home, have been so austere to themselves as to pore a long time over red-hot bricks, or ingots of iron, and by that means willingly lose their sight, desiring to see nothing evil or profane, after so sacred a sight as the temple at Mecca; but I never knew any such thing done.

“They say, that after the Hagges are gone from Mina to Mecca, God doth usually send a good shower of rain to wash away the filth and dung of the sacrifices there slain; and also that those vast numbers of little stones, which I told you the Hagges throw in defiance of the devil, are all carried away by the angels before the year comes about again. But I am sure I saw vast numbers of them that were thrown the year before, lie upon the ground. After they are returned to Mecca, they can tarry there no longer than the stated time, which is about ten or twelve days; during which time there is a great fair held, where are sold all manner of East India goods, and abundance of fine stones for rings and bracelets, &c., brought from Yeamane[FN#40]; also of China-ware and musk, and variety of other curiosities. Now is the time in which the Hagges are busily employed in buying, for they do not think it lawful to buy any thing till they have received the title of Hagge. Every one almost now buys a caffin, or shroud of fine linen, to be buried in (for they never use coffins for that purpose), which might have been procured at Algier, or their other respective homes, at a much cheaper rate; but they choose to buy it here, because they have the advantage of dipping it in the holy water, Zem Zem. They are very careful to carry the said

“The evening before they leave Mecca, every one must go to take their solemn leave of the Beat, entering at the gate called Babe el Salem, i.e. Welcome Gate, and having continued at Towoaf as long as they please, which many do till they are quite tired, and it being the last time of their paying their devotions to it, they do it with floods of tears, as being extremely unwilling to part and bid farewell; and having drank their fill of the water Zem Zem, they go to one side of the Beat, their backs being towards the door called by the name of Babe el Weedoh i.e., the Farewell Door, which is opposite to the welcome door; where, having performed two or three Erkaets, they get upon their legs and hold up their hands towards the Beat, making earnest petitions; and then keep going backward till they come to the above said farewell gate, being guided by some other, for they account it a very irreverent thing to turn their backs towards the Beat when they take leave of it. All the way as they retreat they continue petitioning, holding up their hands, with their eyes fixed upon the Beat, till they are out of sight of it; and so go to their lodgings weeping.

“Ere I leave Mecca, I shall acquaint you with a passage of a Turk to me in the temple cloyster, in the night time, between Acsham-nomas, and Gega-nomas, i.e., between the evening and the night services. The Hagges do usually spend that time, or good part of it (which is about an hour and half), at Towoaf, and then sit down on the mats and rest themselves. This I did, and after I had sat a while, and for my more ease at last was lying on my back, with my feet towards the Beat, but at a distance as many others did, a Turk which sat by me, asked me what countryman I was; ‘A Mogrebee’ (said I), i.e. one of the West. ‘Pray,’ quoth he, ‘how far west did you come?’ I told him from Gazair, i.e. Algier. ‘Ah!’ replied he, ‘have you taken so much

“Here are many Moors, who get a beggarly livelihood by selling models of the temple unto strangers, and in being serviceable to the Pilgrims. Here are also several Effendies, or masters of learning, who daily expound out of the Alcoran, sitting in high chairs, and some of the learned Pilgrims, whilst they are here, do undertake the same.

“Under the room of the Hanifees (which I mentioned before), people do usually gather together (between the hours of devotion), and sitting round cross-legged, it may be, twenty or thirty of them, they have a very large pair of Tessbeehs, or beads, each bead near as big as a man’s fist, which they keep passing round, bead after bead, one to the other, all the time, using some devout expressions. I myself was once got in amongst them, and methought it was a pretty play enough for children,—however, I was to appearance very devout.

“There are likewise some dervises that get money here, as well as at other places, by burning of incense, swinging their censers as they go along before the people that are sitting; as this they do commonly on Friday, their Sabbath. In all other Gamiler or Mosques, when the Hattib is preaching, and the people all sitting still at their devotion, they are all in ranks, so that the dervise, without the least disturbance to any, walks between every rank, with his censer in one hand, and with the other takes his powdered incense out of a little pouch that hangs by his side.[FN#41]

“But though this place, Mecca, is esteemed so very holy, yet it comes short of none for lewdness and debauchery. As for uncleanness, it is equal to Grand Cairo; and they will steal even in the temple itself.

“Having thus given you an account of the Turks’ pilgrimage to Mecca, and of their worship there (the manner and circumstances of which I have faithfully and punctually related, and may challenge the world to convict me of a known falsehood), I now come to take leave of the temple and town of Mecca. “Having hired camels of the carriers, we set out, but we give as much for the hire of one from Mecca to Egypt, which is about forty days’ journey, as the real worth of it is, (viz.) about five or six pounds sterling. If it happen that the camel dies by the way, the carrier is to supply us with another; and therefore, those carriers[FN#42] who come from Egypt to Mecca with the Caravan, bring with them several spare camels; for there is hardly a night passeth but many die upon the road, for if a camel should chance to fall, it is seldom known that it is able to rise again; and if it should, they despair of its being capable of performing the journey, or ever being useful more. It is a common thing, therefore, when a camel once falls, to take off its burden and put it on another, and then kill it; which the poorer sort of the company eat. I myself have eaten of camel’s flesh, and it is very sweet and nourishing. If a camel tires, they even leave him upon the place. “The first day we set out from Mecca, it was without any order at all, all hurly burly; but the next day every one laboured to get forward; and in order to it, there was many time much quarrelling and fighting. But after every one had taken his place in the Caravan, they orderly and peaceably kept the same place till they came to Grand Cairo. They travel four camels in a breast,

“They have lights by night (which is the chief time of travelling, because of the exceeding heat of the sun by day), which are carried on the tops of high poles, to direct the Hagges on their march.[FN#45] They are somewhat like

“Every day, viz. in the morning, they pitch their tents, and rest several hours. When the camels are unloaded the owners drive them to water, and give them their provender, &c. So that we had nothing to do with them, besides helping to load them.

“As soon as our tents were pitched, my business was to make a little fire and get a pot of coffee. When we had ate some small matter and drank the coffee, we lay down to sleep. Between eleven and twelve we boiled something for dinner, and having dined, lay down again, till about four in the afternoon; when the trumpet was sounded which gave notice to every one to take down their tents, pack up their things, and load their camels in order to proceed on their journey. It takes up about two hours time ere they are in all their places again. At the time of Acsham-nomas, and also Gega-nomas, they make a halt, and perform their Sallah (so punctual

“As for provisions, we bring enough out of Egypt to suffice us till we return thither again. At Mecca we compute how much will serve us for one day, and consequently, for the forty days’ journey to Egypt, and if we find we have more than we may well guess will suffice us for a long time, we sell the overplus at Mecca. There is a charity maintained by the Grand Seignior, for water to refresh the poor who travel on foot all the way; for there are many such undertake this journey (or pilgrimage) without any money, relying on the charity of the Hagges for subsistence, knowing that they largely extend it at such a time.

“Every Hagge carries his provisions, water, bedding, &c., with him, and usually three or four diet together, and sometimes discharge a poor man’s expenses the whole journey for his attendance on them. There was an Irish renegade, who was taken very young, insomuch that he had not only lost his Christian religion, but his native language also. This man had endured thirty years slavery in Spain, and in the French gallies, but was afterwards redeemed and came home to Algier. He was looked upon as a very pious man, and a great Zealot, by the Turks, for his not turning from the Mahommedan faith, notwithstanding the great temptations he had so to do. Some of my neighbours who intended for Mecca, the same year I went with my patroon thither, offered

“Their water they carry in goats’ skins, which they fasten to one side of their camels. It sometimes happens that no water is to be met with for two, three, or more days; but yet it is well known that a camel is a creature that can live long without drinking (God in his wise providence so ordering it: for otherwise it would be very difficult, if not impossible to travel through the parched deserts of Arabia).

“In this journey many times the skulking, thievish, Arabs do much mischief to some of the Hagges; for in the night time they will steal upon them (especially such as are on the outside of the Caravan), and being taken to be some of the servants that belong to the carriers, or owners of the camels, they are not suspected. When they see an Hagge fast asleep (for it is usual for them to sleep on the road), they loose a camel before and behind, and one of the thieves leads it away with the Hagge upon its back asleep. Another of them in the meanwhile, pulls on the next camel to tie it to the camel from whence the halter of the other was cut; for if that camel be not fastened again to the leading camel, it will stop, and all that are behind will then stop of course, which might be the means of discovering the robbers. When they have gotten the stolen camel, with his rider, at a convenient distance from the Caravan, and think themselves out of danger, they awake the Hagge, and sometimes destroy him immediately; but at other times, being a little more

“About the tenth easy day’s journey, after we come out of Mecca, we enter into Medina, the place where Mahomet lies entombed. Although it be (as I take it) two or three days’ journey out of the direct way from Mecca to Egypt, yet the Hagges pay their visit there for the space of two days, and come away the third.

“Those Mahometans which live to the southward of Mecca, at the East Indies, and thereaway, are not bound to make a visit to Medina, but to Mecca only, because it would be so much out of their way. But such as come from Turkey, Tartary, Egypt, and Africa, think themselves obliged to do so.

“Medina is but a little town, and poor, yet it is walled round,[FN#48] and hath in it a great Mosque, but nothing near so big as the temple at Mecca. In one corner of the Mosque is a place, built about fourteen or fifteen paces square. About this place are great windows,[FN#49] fenced with brass grates. In the inside it is decked with some lamps, and ornaments. It is arched all over head. (I find some relate, that there are no less than 3000 lamps about Mahomet’s tomb; but it is a mistake, for there are not, as I verily believe, an hundred; and I speak what I know, and have been an eye-witness of). In the middle of this place is the tomb of Mahomet, where the corpse of that bloody impostor is laid, which hath silk curtains all around it like a bed; which curtains are not costly nor beautiful. There is nothing of his tomb to be seen by any, by reason

“It is storied by some, that the coffin of Mahomet hangs up by the attractive virtue of a loadstone to the roof of the Mosque; but believe me it is a false story. When I looked through the brass gate, I saw as much as any of the Hagges; and the top of the curtains, which covered the tomb, were not half so high as the roof or arch, so that it is impossible his coffin should be hanging there. I never heard the Mahometans say anything like it. On the outside of this place, where Mahomet’s tomb is, are some sepulchres of their reputed saints; among which is one prepared for Jesus Christ, when he shall come again personally into the world; for they hold that Christ will come again in the flesh, forty years before the end of the world, to confirm the Mahometan faith, and say likewise, that our Saviour was not crucified in person, but in effigy, or one like him.

“Medina is much supplied by the opposite Abyssine country, which is on the other side of the Red Sea: from thence they have corn and necessaries brought in ships: an odd sort of vessels as ever I saw, their sails being made of matting, such as they use in the houses and Mosques to tread upon.

“About ten days before we got to Cairo, we came to a very long steep hill, called Ackaba, which the Hagges are usually much afraid how they shall be able to get up. Those who can will walk it. The poor camels, having no hoofs, find it very hard work, and many drop here. They were all untied, and we dealt gently with them, moving very slowly, and often halting. Before we came to this hill, I observed no descent, and when we were at the top there was none, but all plain as before.

“We past by Mount Sinai by night, and, perhaps, when I was asleep; so that I had no prospect of it.

“When we came within seven days’ journey of Cairo, we were met by abundance of people more, some hundreds, who came to welcome their friends and relations; but it being night, it was difficult to find those they wanted, and, therefore, as the Caravans past along they kept calling them aloud by their names, and by this means found them out. And when we were in three days’ journey of it, we had many camel-loads of the water of the Nile brought us to drink. But the day and night before we came to Cairo, thousands came out to meet us with extraordinary rejoicing. It is thirty-seven days’ journey from Mecca to Cairo, and three days we tarry by [p.389] the way, which together make us (as I said) forty days’ journey; and in all this way there is scarce any green thing to be met with, nor beast nor fowl to be seen or heard; nothing but sand and stones, excepting one place which we passed through by night; I suppose it was a village, where were some trees, and, we thought, gardens.”

GIOVANNI FINATI.

THE third pilgrim on our list is Giovanni Finati, who, under the Moslem name of “Haji Mohammed,” made the campaign against the Wahhabis for the recovery of Meccah and Al-Madinah. A native of Ferrara, the eldest of the four scions of a small landed proprietor, “tenderly attached to his mother,” and brought up most unwillingly for a holy vocation,—to use his own words, “instructed in all that course of frivolous and empty ceremonials and mysteries, which form a principal feature in the training of a priest for the Romish Church,” in A.D. 1805, Giovanni Finati’s name appeared in the list of Italian conscripts. After a few vain struggles with fate, he was marched to Milan, drilled and trained; the next year his division was ordered to the Tyrol, where the young man, “brought up for the church,” instantly deserted. Discovered in his native town, he was sent under circumstances of suitable indignity to join his regiment at Venice, where a general act of grace, promulgated on occasion of Napoleon’s short visit, preserved him from a platoon of infantry. His next move was to Spalato, in Dalmatia, where he marched under General Marmont to Cattaro, the last retreat of the hardy and warlike Montenegrins. At Budoa, a sea-port S.E. of Ragusa, having consulted an Albanian “captain-merchant,” Giovanni Finati, and fifteen other Italians—

“Exulting in my escape, my mind was in a state to receive very strong impressions, and I was much struck with all I saw upon entering the city; for though it is neither large nor beautiful in itself, there is something in it that is calculated to impress a sort of awe, and it was the hour of noon when everything is very silent, except the Muezzins calling from the minarets.

“The principal feature of the city is that celebrated sacred enclosure which is placed about the centre of it; it is a vast paved court with doorways opening into it from every side, and with a covered colonnade carried all round like a cloister, while in the midst of the open space stands the edifice called the Caaba, whose walls are entirely covered over on the outside with hangings of rich velvet,[FN#4] on which there are Arabic inscriptions embroidered in gold.

“Facing one of its angles (for this little edifice is of

“There is a stone also near the bottom of the building itself which all the visitants kiss as they pass round it, and the multitude of them has been so prodigious as to have worn the surface quite away.

“Quite detached, but fronting to the Caaba, stand four pavilions (corresponding to the four sects of the Mahometan religion), adapted for the pilgrims; and though the concourse had of late years been from time to time much interrupted, there arrived just when I came to Meccah two Caravans of them, one Asiatic and one from the African side, amounting to not less than about 40,000 persons, who all seemed to be full of reverence towards the holy place.[FN#6]”

After commenting on the crowded state of the city, the lodging of pilgrims in tents and huts, or on the bare ground outside the walls,[FN#7] and the extravagant prices of provisions, Haji Mahomet proceeds with his description.

“Over and above the general ceremonies of the purification at the well, and of the kissing of the corner-stone,[FN#8]

We have then an account of the Mosque-pigeons, for whom it is said, “some pilgrims bring with them even from the most remote countries a small quantity of grain, with which they may take the opportunity of feeding these birds.” This may have occurred in times of scarcity; the grain is now sold in the Mosque.

“The superstitions and ceremonies of the place,” we are told, “are by no means completed within the city, for the pilgrims, after having performed their devotions for a certain time at the Caaba, at last in a sort of procession go to a place called Arafat, an eminence which stands detached in the centre of a valley; and in the way thither there is a part of the road for about the space of a mile where it is customary to run.[FN#9] The road also passes near a spot where was formerly a well which is superstitiously supposed to be something unholy and cursed by the Prophet himself. And for this reason, every pilgrim as he goes by it throws a stone; and the custom is so universal and has prevailed so long that none can be picked up in the neighbourhood, and it is necessary therefore to provide them from a distance, and some persons even bring them out of their own remote countries, thinking thereby to gain the greater favour in the sight of Heaven.[FN#10]

“The hill of Arafat lying at a distance of seven hours from Meccah, it is necessary to set out very early in order to be there in time; many of the pilgrims, and especially the more devout amongst them, performing all the way on foot.

“When they have reached the place[FN#12] all who have any money according to their means sacrifice a sheep, and the rich often furnish those who are poor and destitute with the means of buying one.

“Such a quantity of sacrifices quite fills the whole open space with victims, and the poor flock from all the country round to have meat distributed to them.

“After which, at the conclusion of the whole ceremony, all the names are registered by a scribe appointed for the purpose[FN#13]: and when this is finished the African

Being desirous of enrolment in some new division of Mohammed Ali’s army, Finati overcame the difficulty of personal access to him by getting a memorial written in Turkish and standing at the window of a house joined on to the enclosure of the great temple. After the sixth day the Pasha observed him, and in the “greatest rage imaginable” desired a detailed account of the defeat at Kunfudah. Finati then received five hundred piastres and an order to join a corps at Taif, together with a strict charge of secrey, “since it was of importance that no reverse or check should be generally talked of.” Before starting our author adds some “singular particulars” which escaped him in his account of Meccah.

“Many of the pilgrims go through the ceremony of walking the entire circuit of the city upon the outside; and the order in which this is performed is as follows. The devoted first goes without the gates, and, after presenting himself there to the religious officer who presides, throws off all his clothes, and takes a sort of large wrapping garment in lieu of them to cover himself; upon which he sets off walking at a very quick pace, or rather running, to reach the nearest of the four corners of the city, a sort of guide going with him at the same rate all the way, who prompts certain ejaculations or prayers, which he ought to mention at particular spots as he passes; at every angle he finds a barber, who with wonderful quickness wets and shaves one quarter of his head, and so on; till he has reached the barber at the fourth angle, who completes the work. After which the

“There is also near the holy city an eminence called the hill of light,[FN#15] as I imagine from its remarkable whiteness. Upon this the pilgrims have a custom of leaping while they repeat at the same time prayers and verses of the Koran. Many also resort to a lesser hill, about a mile distant from the city, on which there is a small Mosque, which is reputed as a place of great sanctity.

“An annual ceremony takes place in the great temple itself which is worth mentioning before I quit the subject altogether.

“I have already spoken of the little square building whose walls are covered with hangings of black and gold, and which is called the Caaba. Once in the year,[FN#16] and once only, this holy of holies is opened, and as there is nothing to prevent admission it appears surprising at first to see so few who are willing to go into the interior, and especially since this act is supposed to have great efficacy in the remission of all past sins. But the reason must be sought for in the conditions which are annexed, since he who enters is, in the first place, bound to exercise no gainful pursuit, or trade, or to work for his livelihood

“One more remark with reference to the great scene of sacrifice at Arafat. Though the Pasha’s power in Arabia had been now for some time established, yet it was not complete or universal by any means—the Wahhabees still retaining upon many sides a very considerable footing, so that open and unprotected places, even within half a day’s journey of Meccah, might be liable to surprise and violence.”

For these reasons, our author informs us, a sufficient force was disposed round Arafat, and the prodigious multitude went and returned without molestation or insult.[FN#18]

It is not my intention to accompany Mahomet to the shameful defeat of Taraba, where Tussun Pasha lost three quarters of his army, or to the glorious victory of Bissel, where Mohammed Ali on the 10th January, 1815, broke 24,000 Wahhabis commanded by Faysal bin Sa’ud. His account of this interesting campaign is not full or accurate like Mengin’s; still, being the tale of an eye-witness, it attracts attention. Nothing can be more graphic than his picture of the old conqueror sitting with exulting countenance upon the carpet where he had vowed to await death or victory, and surrounded by heaps of enemies’ heads.[FN#20]

Still less would it be to the purpose to describe the latter details of Haji Mahomet’s career, his return to Cairo, his accompanying Mr. Bankes to upper Egypt and Syria, and his various trips to Aleppo, Kurdistan, the

NOTES ON MY JOURNEY.

BY A. SPRENGER.

IN the map to a former edition of the Pilgrimage, Captain Burton’s route from Madina to Meccah is wrongly laid down, owing to a typographical error of the text, “From Wady Laymun to Meccah S.E. 45°;” (see vol. ii. p. 155, ante), whereas the road runs S.W. 45°, or, as Hamdany expresses himself in the commentary on the Qacyda Rod., “Between west and south; and therefore the setting sun shines at the evening prayer (your face being turned towards Meccah) on your right temple.” The account of the eastern route from Madina to Meccah by so experienced a traveller as Captain Burton is an important contribution to our geographical knowledge of Arabia. It leads over the lower terrace of Nejd, the country which Muslim writers consider as the home of the genuine Arabs and the scene of Arabic chivalry. As by this mistake the results of my friend’s pilgrimage, which, though pious as he unquestionably is, he did not undertake from purely religious motives, have been in a great measure marred, I called in 1871 his attention to it. At the same time I submitted to him a sketch of a map in which his own and Burckhardt’s routes are protracted, and a few notes culled from Arabic geographers, with the intention of showing how much light his investigations throw on early

At Sufayna, Burton found the Baghdad Caravan. The regular Baghdad-Meccah Road, of which we have two itineraries, the one reproduced by Hamdany and the other by Ibn Khordadbeh, Qodama, and others, keeps to the left of Sufayna, and runs parallel with the Eastern Madina-Meccah Road to within one stage of Meccah. We find only one passage in Arabic geographers from which we learn that the Baghdadlies, as long as a thousand years ago, used under certain circumstances to take the way of Sufayna. Yacut, vol. iii. p. 403, says “Sufayna ([Arabic] Cufayna), a place in the caliya (Highland) within the territory of the Solaymites, lies on the road of Zobayda. The pilgrims make a roundabout, and take this road, if they suffer from want of water. The pass of Sufayna, by which they have to descend, is very difficult.” The ridges over which the road leads are called al-Sitar, and are described by Yacut, vol. iii. p. 38, as a range of red hills, flanking Sufayna, with defiles which serve as passes. Burton, vol. ii. p. 128, describes them as low hills of red sandstone and bright porphyry. Zobayda, whose name the partly improved, partly newly opened Hajj-Road from Baghdad to Meccah bore, was the wife of Caliph Harun, and it appears from Burton, pp. 134 and 136, that the improvements made by this spirited woman—as the wells near Ghadir, and the Birkat (Tank)—are now ascribed to her weak, fantastical, and contemptible husband. Burton’s description of the plain covered with huge boulders and detached rocks (p. 131) puts us in mind of

At Zariba ([Arabic], Dhariba) Burton and his party put on the Ihram (pilgrim-garb). If the Baghdadlies follow the regular road they perform this ceremony at Dzat-Irq, which lies somewhat lower down than Dhariba, to the South-east of it, and therefore the rain-water which falls in Dhariba flows in the shape of a torrent to Dzat-Irq, and is thence carried off by the Northern Nakhla. Above the station of Dzat-Irq there rise ridges called Irq; up these ridges the regular Baghdad Road ascends to the high-plateau, and they are therefore considered by early geographers as the western limit of Nejd. Omara apud Yacut, vol. iv. p. 746, says: “All the country in which the water flows in an Easterly (North-easterly) direction, beginning from Dzat-Irq as far as Babylonia, is called Nejd; and the country which slopes Westwards, from Dzat-Irq to Tihama (the coast), is called Hijaz.” The remarks of Arabic geographers on the Western watershed, and those of Burton, vol. ii. pp. 142 and 154, illustrate and complete each other most satisfactorily. It appears from Yacut that the Fiumara in which Burton’s party was attacked by robbers takes its rise at Ghomayr close to Dzat-Irq, that there were numerous date-groves in it, and that it falls at Bostan Ibn camir into the Nakhla, wherefore it is called the Northern Nakhla. The Southern Nakhla, also called simply Nakhla, a term which is sometimes reserved for the trunk formed by the junction of the Southern and Northern

In Wdy Fatima, Burckhardt found a perennial rivulet, coming from the Eastward, about three feet broad and two feet deep. It is certain that Wady Fat?ima, formerly called Wady Marr, is a continuation of Wady Nakhla, and Yacut considers in one passage Nakhla as a subdivision of Marr, and in another Marr as part of Wady Nakhla; but we do not know whether the rivulet, which at al-Zayma seems to be of considerable size, disappears under the sand in order to come forth again in Wdy Marr, or whether it forms an uninterrupted stream. In ancient times the regular Baghdad-Meccah Road did not run down from Dzat-Irq by the Northern Nakhla which Burton followed, but it crossed this Wady near its Northern end and struck over to the Southern Nakhla as far as Qarn almarazil, which for a long time was the second station from Meccah, instead of Dzat-cIrq.

THE MECCAH PILGRIMAGE.

HAVING resolved to perform the Meccah pilgrimage, I spent a few months at Cairo, and on the 22nd of May embarked in a small steamer at Suez with the “mahmil” or litter, and its military escort, conveying the “kiswah” or covering for the “kabah.” On the 25th the man at the wheel informed us that we were about to pass the village of Rabikh, on the Arabian coast, and that the time had consequently arrived for changing our usual habiliments for the “ihram,” or pilgrim-costume of two towels, and for taking the various interdictory vows involved in its assumption: such as not to tie knots in any portion of our dress, not to oil the body, and not to cut our nails or hair, nor to improve the tints of the latter with the coppery red of henna. Transgression of these and other ceremonial enactments is expiated either by animal sacrifice, or gifts of fruit or cereals to the poor.

After a complete ablution and assuming the ihram, we performed two prayer-flections, and recited the meritorious sentences beginning with the words “Labbaik Allah huma labbaik!” “Here I am, O God, here I am! Here I am, O Unassociated One, here I am, for unto Thee belong praise, grace, and empire, O Unassociated One!”

This prayer was repeated so often, people not unfrequently rushing up to their friends and shrieking the sacred sentence into their ears, that at last it became a signal for merriment rather than an indication of piety.

On disembarking we were accosted by several “mut?awwafs,” or circuit-men, so termed in Arabic, because, besides serving as religious guides in general, their special duty is to lead the pilgrim in his seven obligatory circuits around the Kabah. We encamped outside the town, and, having visited the tomb of “our Mother Eve,” mounted our camels for Meccah.

After a journey of twenty hours across the Desert, we passed the barriers which mark the outermost limits of the sacred city, and, ascending some giant steps, pitched our tents on a plain, or rather plateau, surrounded by barren rock, some of which, distant but a few yards, mask from view the birthplace of the Prophet. It was midnight; a few drops of rain were falling, and lightning played around us. Day after day we had watched its brightness from the sea, and many a faithful haji had pointed out to his companions those fires which were Heaven’s witness to the sanctity of the spot. “Al hamdu Lillah!” Thanks be to God! we were now at length to gaze upon the “Kiblah,” to which every Mussulman has turned in prayer since the days of Muhammad, and which for long ages before the birth of Christianity was reverenced by the Patriarchs of the East. Soon after dawn arose from our midst the shout of “Labbaik! Labbaik!” and passing

On crossing the threshold we entered a vast unroofed quadrangle, a mighty amplification of the Palais Royal, having on each of its four sides a broad colonnade, divided into three aisles by a multitude of slender columns, and rising to the height of about thirty feet. Surmounting each arch of the colonnade is a small dome: in all there are a hundred and twenty, and at different points arise seven minarets, dating from various epochs, and of somewhat varying altitudes and architecture. The numerous pigeons which have their home within the temple have been believed never to alight upon any portion of its roof, thus miraculously testifying to the holiness of the building. This marvel having, however, of late years been suspended, many discern another omen of the approach of the long-predicted period when unbelievers shall desecrate the hallowed soil.

In the centre of the square area rises the far-famed Kabah, the funereal shade of which contrasts vividly with the sunlit walls and precipices of the town. It is a cubical structure of massive stone, the upper two-thirds of which are mantled by a black cloth embroidered with silver, and the lower portion hung with white linen. At a distance of several yards it is surrounded by a balustrade provided with lamps, which are lighted in the evening, and the space thus enclosed is the circuit-ground along which, day and night, crowds of pilgrims, performing the circular ceremony of Tawaf, realize the idea of perpetual motion. We at once advanced to the black stone imbedded in an angle of the Kabah, kissed it, and exclaimed, “Bismillah wa Allahu Akbar,”—“In God’s name, and God is greatest.” Then we commenced the usual seven rounds, three at a walking pace, and four at a brisk trot. Next

p.412] followed two prayer-flections at the tomb of Abraham, after which we drank of the water of Zamzam, said to be the same which quenched the thirst of Hagar’s exhausted son.

Besides the Kabah, eight minor structures adorn the quadrangle, the well of Zamzam, the library, the clock-room, the triangular staircase, and four ornamental resting-places for the orthodox sects of Hanafi, Shafi, Maliki, and Hanbali.

We terminated our morning duties by walking and running seven times along the streets of Safa and Marwa, so named from the flight of seven steps at each of its extremities.

After a few days spent in visiting various places of interest, such as the slave-market and forts, and the houses of the Prophet and the Caliphs ’Ali and Abubakr, we started on our six hours’ journey to the mountain of ’Arifat, an hour’s sojourn at which, even in a state of insensibility, confers the rank of haji. It is a mountain spur of about a hundred and fifty feet in height, presenting an artificial appearance from the wall encircling it and the terrace on its slope, from which the iman delivers a sermon before the departure of his congregation for Meccah. His auditors were, indeed, numerous, their tents being scattered over two or three miles of the country. A great number of their inmates were fellow-subjects of ours from India. I surprised some of my Meccah friends by informing them that Queen Victoria numbers nearly twenty millions of Mohammedans among her subjects.

On the 5th of June, at sunset, commencing our return, we slept at the village of Muzdalifah, and there gathered and washed seven pebbles of the size of peas, to be flung at three piles of whitewashed masonry known as the Shaitans (Satans) of Mun?. We acquitted ourselves satisfactorily of this duty on the festival of the 6th of [p.413] June, the 10th day of the Arabian month Zu’lhijah. Each of us then sacrificed a sheep, had his hair and nails cut, exchanged the ihram for his best apparel, and, embracing his friends, paid them the compliments of the season. The two following days the Great, the Middle, and the Little Satan were again pelted, and, bequeathing to the unfortunate inhabitants of Muna the unburied and odorous remains of nearly a hundred thousand animals, we returned, eighty thousand strong, to Meccah. A week later, having helped to insult the tumulus of stones which marks, according to popular belief, the burial-place of Abulah?ab, the unbeliever, who, we learn from the Koran, has descended into hell with his wife, gatherer of sticks, I was not sorry to relinquish a shade temperature of 120°, and wend my way to Jeddah en route for England, after delegating to my brethren the recital of a prayer in my behalf at the Tomb of the Prophet at Medina.

In penning these lines I am anxious to encourage other Englishmen, especially those from India, to perform the pilgrimage, without being deterred by exaggerated reports concerning the perils of the enterprise. It must, however, be understood that it is absolutely indispensable to be a Mussulman (at least externally) and to have an Arabic name. Neither the Koran nor the Sultan enjoins the killing of intrusive Jews or Christians; nevertheless, two years ago, an incognito Jew, who refused to repeat the creed, was crucified by the Meccah populace, and in the event of a pilgrim again declaring himself to be an unbeliever the authorities would be almost powerless to protect his life.

An Englishman who is sufficiently conversant with the prayers, formulas, and customs of the Mussulmans, and possess a sufficient guarantee of orthodoxy, need, however, apprehend no danger if he applies through the British Consulate at Cairo for an introduction to the Amirul Haj, the Prince of the Caravan.

END OF VOLUME II.

AAKAL, or fillet, of the Arabs, i. 235 Aaron, burial place of, on Mount Ohod, i. 346, 423; ii. 275. His grave also shown over the summit of Mount Hor, i. 346, n. Aba, the, or camel’s hair cloak of Arab shaykhs, i. 236 Abar (Saba), or seven wells, of Kuba, i. 414 Abbas Effendi, deputy governor of Alexandria, an interview with, i. 21 Abbas, prayers for, i. 328 Abbas, Al-, uncle of Mohammed the Prophet, ii. 353 Abbas, the fiery Shaykh of the Hawazim, ii. 29 Abbas, Ibn, his statement of the settlement of the family of Noah, i. 343 Abbas ibn Abd al-Muttalib, his tomb, ii. 40 Abbas Pasha (Viceroy of Egypt), his enlightened policy, i. 18, 78 His intention to erect a magnificent Mosque, i. 99 His present to the Prophets Mosque, i. 312 His respect for the Alim Mohammed Ibn Abdillah al-Sannusi, ii. 25, n. Abbasiyah, Kubbat al- (Dome of Abbas), visit to the, ii. 39 Abbasiyah Palace at Cairo, i. 78 Abd al-Ashal (tribe of), Al-Islam preached by the Prophet to, i. 352 Converted to Mohammedanism, 353 Abd al-Hakk al-Muhaddis of Delhi, Shaykh, i. 358, n. Abd al-Hamid, the Sultan, his repair of the Mosque of Al-Kuba, i. 409 Abd al-Malik bin Marwar, the Caliph, his additions to the House of Allah, ii. 324 Abd al-Majid, Sultan, his mahmil turned back by robbers in Arabia, i. 257 Imbecility of his government in Arabia, i. 257 His Tanzimat, i. 258 Sends gifts to the robbers of Arabia, i. 260 His war with the Czar, i. 291 His additions to the Prophet’s Mosque at Al-Madinah, i. 308 Abolishes Wakf in Turkey, i. 359, n. Abd al-Muttalib (Shaybah), grandfather of the Prophet, i. 351, n. Abd al-Muttalib bin Ghalib, Sharif of Meccah, i. 259 Description of him, ii[.] 150 His cavalcade, 150 His children, 150 His quarrel with Ahmad Pasha of Al-Hijaz, 151, n. His Palace, 152 His procession to the ceremonies of the day of Arafat, 194 Abd al-Rahim al-Burai, the saint of Jahaydah, i. 262 Abd al-Rahim al-Burai, the poet, quoted, ii. 212 Abd al-Rahman, meaning of the name, i. 14 Abd al-Rahman, tomb of, ii. 249 [p.416] Abd al-Rahman al-Ausat, tomb of, ii. 44 Abd al-Rahman bin Auf, his tomb, ii. 43, n. Abd al-Wahhab, Shaykh, the chief of the Afghan college at Cairo, i. 130 His kindness to the pilgrim, 131 Visits the Pilgrim, 142 Abdullah, father of the Prophet, his burial-place, i. 351, n. Abdullah bin Ja’afar al-Tayyar, his tomb, i. 44 Abdullah bin Jaysh, his tomb, i. 429 Abdullah bin Mas’ud, his tomb, ii. 44, n. Abdullah bin Salam, the Jew, of Al-Madinah, converted to Al-Islam, i. 358 Abdullah bin Sa’ud concludes a peace with the Egyptians, i. 370 His unsuccessful attack on Jeddah, ii. 265, n. Abdullah bin Zubayr, nephew of Ayishah, builds the ninth House of Allah, ii. 323 Slain, 324 Abdullah, Pasha of Damascus, i. 263 Abdullah, Shaykh, the assumed name of the author, i. 14 Meaning of the name, 14, n. Abdullah Sahib, Shaykh, the Indian physician of Al-Madinah, ii. 5 Abdullah, Shaykh (the pilgrim’s namesake), introduced, ii. 129 His acquirements, 130 His success with the Syrians in the Desert, 133 Acts as director of the pilgrims’ consciences, 133 His accident on camel back, 146 Abdullah, son of the Sharif of Meccah, ii. 150 Abdullah the Saudawi, or melancholist, ii. 230 Performs a wakil for the pilgrim’s parents, 243 His farewell of the pilgrim, 260 Abel, his burial-place at Damascus, ii. 160, n. Abrahah of Sana’a, erects the Kilis to outshine the Ka’abah, i. 321 Abraham, i. 212 Mosque at Meccah connected with, i. 305 Stone on which he stood, preserved at Meccah, ii. 112 History of it, 112, it, n Legend respecting his having learnt the rites of pilgrimage, 321 The Moslem idea of the existence of two Abrahams, ii. 239 Abrahat al-Ashram, destruction of the host of, i. 384, n. Abrar, or call to prayer, i. 88 Abs, the tribe of Arabs, so called, ii. 119 Absinthe, of the Desert, i. 155 Abu Abbas al-Andalusi, the Wali of Alexandria, tomb of, i. 12 Abu Ali, the fiery Shaykh of the Hawazim, ii. 29 Abu Ayyub, the Ansari, receives Mohammed after the Flight, i. 351, 355-357 Abu Bakr, the Caliph, his window at Al-Madinah, i. 316, 320 The benediction bestowed on, 320 His tomb, 324 Elected Caliph, 339 How regarded by Orthodox Moslems and Shi’ahs, 354 n. His dwelling near the Mosque, 358 His Mosque at Al-Madinah, i. 395; ii. 48 The first who bore the title of Emir al-Hajj, 420, n. Abu Daraj (Father of Steps), wells of, i. 158, n. The mountain of, 158 Abu Hurayrah, his account of the building of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 361 Abu Jubaylah, his destruction of the power of the Jews in Al-Madinah, i. 349 Abu Kubays, the hill, the burial-place of Adam, ii. 160, 173 Abu Lahab, his ambuscade laid for the Prophet, site of, ii. 242 Abulfeda, his limits of Al-Hijaz, i. 376 [p.417] Abu Sa’id al-Khazari, tomb of, at Al-Bakia, ii. 36 Abuse of Christians in the East, ii. 335 Abu Shuja’a of Isfahan, his theological work, i. 106 Abu Sufiyan routed by Mohammed the Prophet, i. 275 Abu Sufiyan bin al-Haris, his tomb, ii. 44, n. Abu Zulaymah, Shaykh, the Red Sea saint, i. 199, 200 Abwa, tomb of Aminah at, i. 351, n. Abyaz, or white, i. 381, n. Abyssinian slaves in Egypt, i. 59 Style of courtship of, 59. Derivation of the name, i. 177, n. Abyssinian slave girls, their value, ii. 13 Acacia, quantities of, ii. 68, 69, 72 Acacia-barren, terrors of an, ii. 69 Academia, the, of Al-Madinah, i. 338 Adam, stature of, according to Moslem legends, i. 204 His burial place at the hill Abu Kubays, ii. 160 Legend of Adam and Eve at Mount Arafat, 189 Adam’s place of prayer at Arafat, 193 Adnan, the tribe of Arabs so called, ii. 119 Adas (lentils). See Lentils Aden, ancient wells at, i. 204, n.; dry storms of, i. 247 Adultery, how punished at Al-Madinah, ii. 19 Advenae, of Arabia, ii. 77, n. Aelius Gallus, i. 189 Aerolite worship, ii. 300, n. Afghans, a chivalrous race, i. 40 Africans, their susceptibility to religious phrenzy, ii. 175 Agapemones, suppression of, in Egypt, i. 81, n. Aghas, or eunuchs of the tomb of the Prophet, i. 316, n., 321 et seq; Agha, pl Aghawat, a term of address to the eunuchs of the tomb, i. 371, n. Agni, the Indian fire-god, ii. 160, n. Ague, prevalence of, in the East, i. 13 Ahali, or burghers, of Al-Madinah, i. 375 Ahl al-Risa, or the “people of the garment,” i. 327, n. Ahmad Pasha, of Al-Hijaz, ii. 256 His quarrel with the Sharif of Meccah, ii. 151, n. Ahmad, son of the Sharif of Meccah, ii. 150 Ahzab, the Masjid al-, ii. 47 Ahzab, Al-, the battle of, ii. 47 Aimmat, the Shaykh al-, of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 374 Ajami, meaning of the term, i. 11 Ajwah, the date so called, ii. 401 Ajwah (conserve of dates), ii. 401, n. Akabah, ill-omened, i. 203, 213 Akabah, a steep descent, ii. 251, n. Akd al-Nikah, or Ziwaj (Arab marriage), at Al-Madinah, ii. 23 Akhdam, or Serviles, of Al-Yaman, ii. 78, n. Akhshabayn, Al-, the “two rugged hills,” near Arafat, ii. 182 The confusion of the return of the pilgrims at, 200 Akhawah, Al-, the black mail among the Badawin, ii. 141 Akif, Haji, accosts the pilgrim, ii. 261 [p.418] Akik, Wady al-, i. 278, n. Aksa, the Masjid al-, at Jerusalem, ii. 305 Akhawat, the relationship among the Badawin so called, ii. 113 Alai, or regiment, of soldiers, i. 394 Alamayn (the “Twin Signs”), near Arafat, i. 379, ii. 182 Visit to the, 242 Albanians, or Arnauts, their desperate manners and customs, i. 133 Their man-shooting amusements, 133 A drinking bout with one, 135 One killed by a sunstroke, i. 265 Parade of irregular horse, 266 Their singular appearance, 267 Their delight in the noise of musketry, 267, n. Their method of rifling their bullets, 267, n. Fight between them and the hill Arabs, 269 A quarrelsome one in the Caravan, ii. 137 Alchemy, favourite Egyptian pursuit of, i. 108, n. Alexander of Alexandria, i. 143, n. Alexandria, i. 10 A city of misnomers, 10 Its peculiar interest to Moslems, 12 Shopping in, 11 Venerable localities in, ib. Whiteness of the walls of, 20, n. The Foreign Office of, 22 The Transit Office, 27 Algebra, study of, in Egypt, i. 107, n. Alhambra, i. 95 Alhamdolillah, meaning of the ejaculation, i. 8 Ali, the fourth Caliph, reference to, ii. 280 His pillar at Al-Madinah, 326, n. His spouse, Lady Fatimah, 327 et seq. Column of, in the Prophet’s Mosque, 336 Remains with the Prophet, 354 Joins Mohammed at Kuba, 355 His dwelling near the Mosque, 358 His Mosque at Al-Madinah, 395 Called the “Musalla al-id,” ib. The birthplace of, at Meccah, ii. 254 Ali (the Masjid) at Al-Kuba, i. 412 At Al-Madinah, ii. 48 Ali Agha, an Albanian captain of Irregulars, or Yuzbashi, i. 132 His personal appearance, 132 Origin of the pilgrim’s acquaintance with him, 132 Manners and customs of his countrymen, 133 His call and invitation, 135 A drinking bout with him, 136 Ali Bey al-Abbasi, i. 215, n.; 225, n. Employed as spy by the French government, ii. 319. n. Value of his works, 319. n. History of him, 319, n. Ali bin Ya Sin, the Zemzemi, ii. 125 A type of the Arab old man, 125 His accident on camel-back, 146 His appearance at the ceremonies of the day of Arafat, 194 Insists on bestowing his company on the pilgrim, 199 His irritation, 202 His invitation to the pilgrim to dinner, 255 Description of the meal, 256 Ali al-Urays, a descendant of the Prophet, his tomb, ii. 59 Ali Murad, owner of the pilgrim-ship, i. 189, 192 Aliki tribe of Arabs, i. 145 Alms (sadaka), given the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 312 The, contributed to the Prophet’s Mosque, 374 Aloe, superstitions of the Arabs and Africans respecting the, ii. 248 Amalekites, identified with the Amalik of the Moslems, i. 343, n. Amalik, the tribe. See Aulad Sam bin Nuh Amalikah, their foundation of the fifth house of Allah, ii. 321 Amalikah tribes, their mixture with the Himyaritic, ii. 79 [p.419] Ambassadors, shameful degradation of, by Moslems, i. 112 Ambari gate of Al-Madinah, i. 285, 287, 395 Ambariyah, of Al-Madinah, house of the Coptic girl Mariyah at, i. 362, n. American Indians, North, compared with the Badawin, ii. 118 Inferiority of the former, 119 Amin, Al- (the Honest), origin of the surname of the Prophet, ii. 323 Aminah, Sitt (mother of the Prophet), her tomb, i. 351, n.; ii. 249 Amlak bin Arfakhshad bin Sam bin Nuh, i. 343 Amlak (property in land) of the Benu Hosayn, ii. 4 Amm Jamal, the native of Al-Madinah, i. 230 Amr, the tribe of, saved from the deluge of Iram, i. 349 Their abodes at Al-Madinah, 355 Their language, ii. 99, n. Amr bin Amin Mal-al-Sama, his stratagem, i. 348 Saved from the Yamanian deluge, 349 The forefather of Mohammed, 349 Amr al-Kays, poet and warrior, his death from ulcer, i. 390 Amur, the Benu, ii. 120, n. Its sub-divisions, 121, n. Amusements of the Cairenes, i. 116 Anakim, Moslem, belief in, i. 204 Anatolia, i. 191 Angels, place of the (Malaikah), at Al-Madinah, i. 326 Prayer at the, 326 Anizah, the Benu (a Jewish tribe), in Arabia, i. 347, n. Their temperament, ii. 78, 121 Ansar, Arab tribe of, i. 347 Ansar, or Auxiliaries, of Al-Madinah, i. 355 Assist Mohammed in building the first Mosque, 357 One of the, sells his house to the Prophet, 361 Antar, songs of, Warburton’s opinion of, ii. 95 Antichrist (Al-Dajjal), the Moslem belief respecting, i. 378, n. Antimony (Kohl), used as a remedy in small-pox, i. 385 Anzah (iron-shod javelin), i. 407 Apes, of Al-Hijaz, ii. 220 Traditions respecting them, 220, n. Stories told of them, 221 Apple of Sodom, ii. 137, n. “Arabesque,” origin of, i. 94 Arabesques, the vulgar, of the Riwaks at Al-Madinah and of the tombs at Cairo, i. 335 Arabia, horses of, i. 3 The Ruba al-Khali, 3 Possesses no river worthy of the name, 4 Testimony of Ibn Haukal to this fact, 4 Contains three distinct races, 4 Enumeration of them, 4 Remnants of heathenry in, 4 Destruction of the idols of the Arab pantheon, 91. Origin of Arab art, 94, n. Closed against trade with Christianity as early as the 7th century, 113, n. The “Mountains of Paradise” with which it abounds, 222 The little villages in, continually changing their names, 245 The “dry storm” of, 247 A Caravan in, 249 The water-courses (misyal) of, 250 Excellent water found in the Deserts of, 254 Depopulation of villages and districts in, 254 Bands of robbers in, 256 Imbecility of the Turkish Government in, 257 The “poison wind” of, 265, n. The celebrated horses and camels from Nijd, 266, n. Wells of the Indians in Arabia, 274 Moslem account [p.420] of the first settlement in, 343 One of the nurseries of mankind, 344, n. Causes of the continual emigrations from, 345, n. Governed by the Benu Israel, after the destruction of the Amalik, 346 Derivation of the name Arabia, 346, n. The flood of Iram, 348 Former possessions of, in Egypt, 359, n. Fire-temples of the ancient Guebres in, 379, n. Diseases of, 384, et seq. Description of a desert in, ii. 131 A night journey in, 132 Arabia Petræa, of the Greeks, i. 376, n. Arab al-Aribah, ii. 77 Arab al-Musta’ajamah, ii. 79 Arab al-Musta’arabah, or half-caste Arab, ii. 79 Arabs. (See also Badawin.) Similarity in language and customs between the Arabs and the tribes occupying the hills that separate India from Persia, 246, n. Generalisation unknown to the Arabs, 250, n. Their ignorance of anything but details, 250 Journey through a country fantastic in its desolation, 252 Ruinous effects of the wars between the Wahhabis and the Egyptians, 254 Good feelings of Arabs easily worked upon, 256 Douceurs given by the Turkish government to the Arab Shaykhs of Al-Hijaz, 266 Fight between the troops and Arabs in Al-Hijaz, 273 The world divided by Arabs into two great bodies, viz., themselves and the “Ajami,” 290, n. Their affectionate greetings, 287, 280, n. Their fondness for coffee, 290, n. Their children and their bad behaviour and language, 292 An Arab breakfast, 298 Melancholia frequent among the Arabs, 299, n. Probable cause of this, 299, n. Tenets of the Wahhabis, 306 Capitulation of the Benu Kurayzah to the Prophet, 336 Moslem early history of some of the tribes, 349, et seq. Dwellings of the Arabs in the time of Mohammed, 359 The seasons divided by them into three, 383 Diseases of the Arabs of Al-Hijaz, 384, et seq. The Arabs not the skilful physicians that they were, 390 Portrait of the farmer race of Arabs, 407 The Arzah, or war dance, 419 Arab superstitions, 427 Difference between the town and country Arab, ii. 13 Their marriages, 23, et seq. Their funerals, 24 Their difficulty of bearing thirst, 69 The races of Al-Hijaz, 76 et seq. Arab jealousy of being overlooked, 318, n. Arabic. Generalisation not the forte of the Arabic language, 250 Its facilities for rhyming, i. 319, n. Traditions respecting its origin, 344 Said to be spoken by the Almighty, 344, n. Changes in the classical Arabic, ii. 15 Purity of the Badawi dialect, 98, n. Examination of the objections to Arabic as a guttural tongue, 99, n. Difference in the articulation of several Badawi clans, 99, n. Suited to poetry, but, it is asserted, not to mercantile transactions, 100 The vicious pronounciation of Indians and slaves, 184, n. The charming song of Maysunah, 190 The beautiful Tumar character, 215 Differences of opinion among travellers and linguists respecting Arabic and its dialects, 235, n. Arafat, the Masjid, at Al-Kuba, i. 412 Tall Arafat, 412 Arafat, mount (anciently Jabal Ilal, now Jabal al-Rahmah), ceremony of the pilgrimage to, ii. 289 Description of, 189 Former high cultivation of the Arafat plain, 187 Derivation of the name of [p.421] the mount, 188, n. The camp arrangements at, 189 Superstitious rite on behalf of women at, 189 The ceremonies of the day of Arafat, 192, et seq. The sermon, 197 The hurry from Arafat, 199 The approach to the Arafat plain, 182 Araki, the Cognac of Egypt and Turkey, i. 134 Called at Cairo “sciroppo di gomma,” 144, n. A favourite drink among all classes and sexes, 144, n. Arbun (earnest money), ii. 52 Arches, pointed, known at Cairo 200 years before they were introduced into England, i. 96 Architecture, the present Saracenic Mosque-architecture, origin of the, i. 364, n. Simple tastes of the Arabs in, 396 The climate inimical to the endurance of the buildings, 396 Arian heretics, i. 143, n. Arimi, tribe of Arabs so called, i. 145 Aris, Al-, (a bridegroom), ii. 23 Arithmetic, Moslem study of, i. 108, n. Arkam bin al-Arkam, last king of the Amalik, i. 345 Armenian marriage, i. 123 Arms prohibited from being carried in Egypt, i. 17 Arms of Arabs, 237, 248; ii. 105, 106 Those worn by Oriental travellers, i. 238 Should always be kept bright, 238 Arms of Arnaut Irregular horse, 266 The use of the bayonet invaluable, 269, n. Stilettos of the Calabrese, 269, n. Sabres preferred to rifles by Indians, 269, n. Army, amount of the Turkish of Al-Hijaz, i. 393, n. The battalion regiment and camp, 394, n. Arnaud, M., his visit to the ruins of the dyke of Mareb, i. 348, n. Arnauts. See Albanians Arwam or Greeks in Al-Madinah, i. 292 Arsh, or throne, of God, ii. 319 Art, Arab origin of, i. 95, n. Arusah, Al- (a bride), ii. 23, n. Arzah, or Arab war-dance, i. 419 As’ad bin Zararah, his conversion by the Prophet, i. 352 Asal Asmar, or brown honey, ii. 130, n. Asclepias gigantea (ashr), its luxuriance in the deserts of Arabia, ii. 137 Bears the long-sought apple of Sodom, 138, n. The fruit used as a medicine by the Arabs, 138, n. Called the “silk-tree,” 138, n. Its probable future commercial importance, 138, n. Ashab, or Companions of the Prophet, i. 320 The Ustuwanat al-Ashab, or Column of the Companions, 326, n. Graves of the, at Al-Bakia, ii. 43 Ashab al-Suffah, or “Companions of the Sofa,” i. 363, n. Ashab, the relationship among the Badawin so called, ii. 113 Ashgar, Ali Pasha, the Emir al-Hajj, ii. 71 Ashr (Asclepias gigantea, which see) Ashwat, or seven courses, round the Ka’abah, ii. 167, n. Askar, the Masjid al-, ii. 49 Asr, al-, or afternoon prayers, i. 311, n. Assayd, the Jewish priest of Al-Madinah, i. 350 [p.422] “Asses turning their back upon Allah’s mercy,” i. 347 Asses, of Al-Madinah, ii. 17 Usefulness of the ass in the East, ii. 241, n. The best and the highest-priced animals, 241, n. Assassination, how to put an end to at Naples and Leghorn, i. 258, n. Assassins (from Hashshashshiyun), i. 187, n. Astronomy among the modern Egyptians, i. 108, n. Among the Badawin, ii. 107 Aswad (dark or black), the word, i. 381, n. Atakah, Jabal (Mountain of Deliverance), i. 195 Atfah, i. 30 Auf, the Benu, their language, ii. 99, n. Their subdivisions, 120, n. Aukaf, or bequests left to the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 374 Those given to the Benu Hosayn, ii. 4 The Nazir al-Aukaf at Constantinople, 7 Aulad Sam bin Nuh (or Amalikah, Amalik) inspired with a knowledge of the Arabic tongue, i. 343 Settles at Al-Madinah, 344 Identified with the Phœnicians, Amalekites, Canaanites, and Hyksos, 343, n. Supplanted by the Jews, 347 Aus, Arab tribe of, i. 147, 149 Their wars with the Kharaaj, 149 Converted by Mohammed, 352 Their plot against Mohammed, 358 Their mixture with the Amalikah, ii. 79 Austrians, despised in Egypt, i. 111 Awali, the, or plains about Kuba, i. 380 Awam, the, or nobile vulgus of Al-Madinah, i. 375 Ayat, or Koranic verse, i. 353 Ayishah accedes to the wishes of Osman and Hasan to be buried near the Prophet, i. 325 Her pillar in the Mosque of the Prophet, 335 Her chamber, or the Hujrah, surrounded with a mud wall, 363 Anecdote of her, ii. 34, n. Her tomb, 38 Her jealousy of the Coptic girl Mariyah, 47, n. Ayn al-Birkat, i. 227 The Ayn Ali, 227 Ayn al-Zarka (azure spring), of Al-Madinah, i. 381 Ayr, Jabal, its distance from Al-Madinah, i. 379 Cursed by the Prophet, 422 Ayyas bin Ma’az, converted by the Prophet, i. 352 Ayyaz, Kazi, his works, i. 106, n. Ayyub, Abu, the Ansari, ii. 408 The Bayt Ayyub, his descendants, 408 Ayyub, well of, at Al-Madinah, i. 360 Azan, or summons to prayer, i. 76; i. 363 Azbakiyah, of Cairo, i. 81 Drained and planted by Mohammed Ali, 81, n. Azhar, Al-, Mosque, at Cairo, i. 97, l00, et seq. Foundation of, 102 Immense numbers of students at, 102 The course of study pursued in, 103 The principal of the Afghan College, Shaykh Abd al-Wahab ibn Yunus al-Sulaymani, 130-131 Azrail, the angel of death, i. 302, 365 Azrak, Bahr al-, remarks on the usual translation of the expression, i. 381, n.

BAB, gates of the Mosque of Meccah, ii. 314 Bab al-Atakhah, “gate of deliverance,” at Al-Madinah, i. 332, n. [p.423] Bab al-Jabr, or Gate of Repairing, i. 333, n. Bab al-Nasr, the gate of Cairo so called, i. 143 Tombs outside the, 335, n. Bab al-Nisa, at Al-Madinah, i. 332 Bab al-Rahmah, or Gate of Pity, at Al-Madinah, i. 332 Bab al-Salam, anciently called the Bab al-Atakah, i. 332 Bab Jibrail, or Gate of the Archangel Gabriel, i. 333 Bab Majidi, or Gate of the Sultan Abd al-Majid, at Al-Madinah, i. 332 Babel or Babylon, settled by the family of Noah, i. 343 Badanjan (egg plant), i. 404 Bad-masti, or liquor-vice, ii. 272 Baghdad, i. 266, n. Quarrel between the Baghdad Caravan and that from Damascus, ii. 128 Baghlah (corrupted to Bungalow), i. 178 Bayt al-Ansari, at Al-Madinah, ii. 1 The Bayt Abu Jud, 1 The Bayt al-Sha’ab, 1 The Bayt al-Karrani, 1 Bayt al-Ma’amur, ii. 320 Bayt al-Nabi (the Prophet’s old house) at Meccah, ii. 251 Bayt Ullah, or House of Allah at Meccah, i. 306 See Ka’abah. Bakhshish, meaning of, i. 8, n. In the deserts of Arabia, 247, 248; 406 The odious sound for ever present in Egypt, i. 189 Always refused by Englishmen, 189 Bakia, Al-, cemetery of at Al-Madinah, i. 278, n., 286, 323, n., 327 Prayers for the souls of the blessed who rest in, 328 Visitation of the, ii. 31 Graves of the Ashab and Sayyids at, 32 Foundation of the place by the Prophet, 32 Description of a funeral at, 33 The martyrs of, 37 Tombs of the wives and daughters of the Prophet at, 38 The beggars of, 38 Benediction of, 42 The other celebrities of, 43-44, n. Belal, his Mosque at Al-Manakhah, i. 395 Balsam of Meccah, used in the cure of wounds, i. 389 See Gilead, Balm of Bamiyah, an esculent hibiscus, i. 404 Banca tin, i. 180 Baras, the kind of leprosy so called. See Leprosy Barbers, Eastern, their skill, i. 289, n. Barr, Al-, at Madinah, i. 289, 297 Barsim, or Egyptian clover, i. 404 Bartema, reference to, i. 326 n. His account of the colony of Jews existing in Arabia, 346 n. Adventures of, ii. 333 Basalt (Hajar Jahannam, or hell-stone), ii. 74 Bashi Buzuks, irregular troops at Cairo, i. 157 Bashat al-Askar, or commander of the forces of the Caravan, ii. 72 Bashir Agha college, at Al-Madinah, ii. 24 Basrah, a den of thieves, how reformed, i. 258, n. Bastarah, i. 29 Bathing in cold water, Arab dislike to, i. 173 The bath in the Hart Zawaran of Al-Madinah, i. 392 Batn Arnah, near Mount Arafat, ii. 187 Batn al-Muhassir (Basin of the Troubler) at Muna, ii. 181 Battalin, the lowest order of the Eunuchs of the Tomb, i. 372 [p.424] Batul, Al-, or the Virgin, term applied to the Lady Fatimah, i. 328, n. Bawwabin, one of the orders of the Eunuchs of the Tomb, i. 372 Bazar, of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Bayazi schismatics, ii. 6 Bayonet, use of, not learnt in the English army, i. 269, n. The most formidable of offensive weapons, 269, n. Bayruha, Bir al-, at Kuba, i. 414, n. “Beauty-masks,” in vogue at Meccah, ii. 233 Badawin, i. 142, 144 Observations on the modern Sinaitic or Tawarah race of, 146, et seq. Enumeration of the chief clans of, 146 Ethnographical peculiarities of, 146 Improvement in, 147 How manageable in the Desert, 148 The city Arab, 153 Arab dislike to bathing in cold water; 173 Arab food, 211 Description of a Shaykh fully equipped for travelling, 234 Dress of the poorer class of Arabs, 237 Their songs in the Desert, 242 The Aulad Ali, 112, n. Badawi robbers, mode of proceeding of, 127 Awed only by the Albanian irregulars, 133 Habits, 142, 144 Their songs, 144 Their tobacco-pipes, 144, n. Remarks on the modern Sinaitic clans, 145 Purity of blood of the Muzaynah, 145 Their peculiar qualities, 146 Their love of the oasis, 149, n. How treated by the city Arab, 152 A Badawi ambuscade, 156 Their food, 182, n. The wreckers of the coasts of the Red Sea, 205 Their bad character at Marsa Damghah, 213 Those of the coasts of the Red Sea, 218 The camel Badawin of Arabia, 230 The Hazimi tribe “out,” 231 The black mail levied by them on stranger travellers, 233, n. Their suspicion of persons sketching, 240, n. Badawi woman leading sheep and goats, 246 Character of the tribe of Benu-Harb, 247 Their pride, 247 The Benu Bu Ali tribe defeated by Sir L. Smith, 248, n. Their ingenuity in distinguishing between localities the most similar, 251 Quarrel with, 256. The Sumayat and Mahamid, sub-families of the Hamidah, 256 The Benu Amr, 257 Attempt to levy black mail, 261 Their defeat of Tussun Bey in 1811, 262 Fight between them and the Albanian troops, 269, 273 Their method of treating wounds, 271, n. Their attack on the Caravan, 273 Graves of the Benu Salim, or Salmah, 274, n. Shape of the graves, 274 Their contempt for mules and asses, 304 Their preservation of the use of old and disputed words, 377, n. Their appearance in the Damascus Caravan, 418 n. The Benu Hosayn at Al-Madinah, ii. 4 The Benu Ali at the Awali, 4, 5 Almost all the Badawin of Al-Madinah are of the Shafe’i school, 6 Their idea of the degradation of labour, 9 Furious fight between the Hawazim and the Hawamid, 29 Practice of entrusting children to their care that they may be hardened by the discipline of the Desert, 36, n. Their fondness for robbing a Hajji, 385 The Sobh tribe inveterate plunderers, ii. 58 Their only ideas of distance, 63, n. Their difficulty of bearing thirst, 69 Account of the Badawin of Al-Hijaz, 76, et seq. The three races, 76 The indigens, or autochthones, 77 Their similarity to the indigens of India, 77, n. The advenæ, 78 The Ishmaelites, 78 Mixture of the Himyaritic and Amalikah tribes, 79 Immutability of race [p.425] in the Desert, 79 Portrait of the Hijazi Badawin, 80 Their features, complexion, &c., 80, 82 Their stature, 83 Their systematic intermarriage, 84 Appearance of the women, 85 Manners of the Badawin, 85 Their true character, 86 How Arab society is bound together, 86, 87 Fitful and uncertain valour of the Badawin, 87 Causes of their bravery, 88 The two things which tend to soften their ferocity, 89 Tenderness and pathos of the old Arab poets, 93 Heroisms of the women, 94 Badawi platonic affection, 94 Arab chivalry, 95 Dakhl, or protection, among them, 97 Their poetic feeling, 98 Effect of Arab poetry, in the Desert 98, 99 Brigandage honourable among the Badawin, 101 The price of blood among them, 103 Intensity of their passions, 103 Their sports, 103 Their weapons, 105 Their sword-play, 106 Their music and musical instruments, 107 Their surgery, 108 Their religion, 109 Their ceremonies, 110 Circumcision, 110 Marriage, 111 Funeral rites, 111 Methods of living on terms of friendship with them, 112 Their bond of salt, 112 Their government, 113 The threefold kind of relationship among the tribes: the Ashab, the Kiman, and the Akhawat, 113 Black mail, 114 Their dress, 115 Their food, 116 Smoking, 118 The Badawin compared with the North American Indians, 118-119 Superiority of the former, 119 Enumeration of the principal branches of the Badawi genealogical tree, 119-123 n. Ferocity of the Utaybah Badawin, 144. Their visit to the House of Allah, 168 Their graves at Mount Ohod, i. 430 Their disgust when in towns, ii. 179n. Their appearance in the Damascus Caravan on the Arafat plain, 181 Their cleanliness compared with the dirt of the citizen Arabs, 190 Their fondness for the song of Maysunah, 190, n. Their wild dances and songs, 223 A pert donkey-boy, 262 “Badr,” the scene of the Prophet’s principal military exploits, i. 225, 260 Badr, reference to the battle of, i. 274 n. Beef, considered unwholesome by the Arabs, ii. 17 Beggars in the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 312 Female beggars near the tomb of the Lady Fatimah, 328 At the tomb of the Prophet, 331 Strong muster of, at Al-Bakia, ii. 38 Bekkah, or place of crowding, Meccah so called, ii. 215, n. Belal, the Prophet’s mu’ezzin, i. 234; ii. 1, n. Bells, origin and symbolical meaning of, i. 79, n. Baluchi, nomads, the, i. 246 n. Benu-Harb, the Arab tribe, i. 247 Their pride, 248 Sub-families and families of the, 256 Their defeat of Tussun Bey and his 8,000 Turks, 262 Benu-Israel, Dr. Wilson’s observations on, i. 147, n. Benu Jahaynah, i. 24 Benu Kalb, i. 214, 248 Benjamin of Tudela, his accounts of the Jewish colony in Arabia, ii. 346, n. Bequests (Aukaf) left to the Prophet’s Mosque, ii. 374 Berberis, characteristics of the, i. 62, 63, 202 Bertolucci, M., his visit to Meccah, i. 5, n. Beybars, Al-Zahir, Sultan of Egypt, his contribution to the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 368 [p.426] [“]Bida’ah,” or custom unknown at the time of the Prophet, i. 371, n. Bir Abbas, in Al-Hijaz, i. 264 Bir al-Aris, the, in the garden of Kuba, i. 412 Called also the Bir al-Taflat (of Saliva), 413 Bir al-Hindi, the halting place, i. 274 Bir Said (Sa’id’s well), i. 251 Bilious complaints common in Arabia, i. 387 Birds, of the palm-groves of Al-Madinah, ii. 399 Carrion birds on the road between Al-Madinah and Meccah, ii. 62 The Rakham and Ukab, 62 Vicinage of the kite and crow to the dwellings of man, 72 Birkah, Al-, the village so called, i. 29 Birkat, Al- (the Tank), description of, ii. 136 Birni, Al-, the date so called, i. 401 The grape so termed, 404 Bissel, battle of, ii. 89 Bizr al-Kutn (cotton seed), used a remedy in dysentery, i. 389 Blackmail, levied by the Badawin, i. 233, n., 265; ii. 114 Black Stone (Hajar al-Aswad), the famous, of the Ka’abah, ii. 302, 321 Traditions respecting the, 303, n. Its position, 302 Its appearance, 303 Ceremonies on visiting it, 168 Blessing the Prophet, efficacy of the act of, i. 313, n. The idea borrowed from a more ancient faith, 313, n. Blood-revenge, i. 235 Blood-feud, proper use of the, i. 259 Its importance in Arab society, ii. 87 The price of blood, 103 Buas, battle of, between the Aus and Kharaj tribes, i. 349; ii. 59, n. Bokhari, Al-, celebrated divine, i. 106, n. Books, Moslem, those read in schools in Egypt, i. 105 Works on Moslem divinity, 105, et seq. Books on logic and rhetoric, 108, n. Algebra, 108, n. History and philosophy, 108, n. Poetry, 108, n. Abundance of books at Al-Madinah, ii. 24 Borneo, pilgrims from, to Meccah, i. 179 Botany of the Arabian Desert, ii. 137 Bouda, the Abyssinian malady so called, ii. 175, n. Brahui nomads, i. 246, n. Bravado, its effect in Arabia, ii. 264 Bread in Arabia, i. 245 That called Kakh, 245 Fondness of Orientals for stale unleavened bread, 245, n. Breakfast, an Arab, i. 298 “Breeding-in,” question of, ii. 84 Brigandage, held in honour among the Badawin, ii. 101 Britain, probable origin of the name, ii. 239, n. Bughaz, or defile, where Tussun Bey was defeated, i. 262, n. Bukht al-Nasr (Nebuchadnezzar), invasion of, i. 347 Bulak, the suburb of, i. 31 “Bulak Independent,” the, i. 109, n. Buraydat al-Aslami, escorts Mohammed to Al-Madinah, i. 354 Burckhardt, his grave near Cairo, i. 84, n. Error in his Map of Arabia, 253 Reference to his “Travels,” i. 286, n. His account of the curtain round the Prophet’s tomb, 321, n. Extracts from his descriptions of the Bayt Ullah, ii. 294, et seq. [p.427] Burial-places in the East and in Europe, ii. 183 Burma, or renegade, derivation of the word, i. 23 Burnus, i. 193 Burton, Lieut., what induced him to make a pilgrimage, i. 1 His principal objects, 3 Embarks at Southampton, 5 His Oriental “impedimenta,” 5 His eventless voyage, 6 Trafalgar, 7 Gibaltar, 7 Malta, 7 Lands at Alexandria, 8 Successfully disguises himself, 11 Supposed by the servants to be an ’Ajami, 11 Secures the assistance of a Shaykh, 11 Visits Al-Nahl and the venerable localities of Alexandria, 11 His qualifications as a fakir, magician, and doctor, 12 Assumes the character of a wandering Darwaysh as being the safest disguise, 13 Adopts the name of Shaykh Abdullah, 14 Elevated to the position of a Murshid, 14 Leaves Alexandria, 16 His adventures in search of a passport, 19 Reasons for assuming the disguise, 22 His wardrobe and outfit, 23 Leaves Alexandria, 28 Voyage up the Nile, 29 Arrives at Bulak, 31 Lodges with Miyan Khudabakhsh Namdar, 35 Life in the Wakalah of Egypt, 41 Makes the acquaintance of Haji Wali, 43 Becomes an Afghan, 45 Interposes for Haji Wali, 48 Engages a Berberi as a servant, 62 Takes a Shaykh, or teacher, Shaykh Mohammed al-Attar, 67 The Ramazan, 74 Visits the “Consul-General” at Cairo, 86 Pleasant acquaintances at Cairo, 122 Account of the pilgrim’s companion, Mohammed al-Busyani, 123 Lays in stores for the journey, 125 The letter of credit, 126 Meets with difficulties respecting the passport, 127 Interview with the Persian Consul, 129 Obtains a passport through the intervention of the chief of the Afghan college, 131 An adventure with an Albanian captain of irregulars, 132, et seq. Departure from Cairo found necessary, 140 A display of respectability, 141 Shaykh Nassar, the Badawi, 141 Hasty departure from Cairo, 142 The Desert, 144, et seq. The midnight halt, 154 Resumes the march, 154 Rests among a party of Maghrabi pilgrims, 156 Adventure on entering Suez, 159 An uncomfortable night, 159 Interview with the governor of Suez, 160 Description of the pilgrim’s fellow-travellers at Suez, 161, et seq. Advantages of making a loan, 165 Suspicion awakened by a sextant, 166 Passports a source of trouble, 168 Kindness of Mr. West, 169 Preparations for the voyage from Suez, 172 Society at the George Inn, 172 The pilgrim-ship, 186 A battle with the Maghrabis, 191 Leaves Suez, 194 Course of the vessel, 195 Halts near the Hammam Bluffs, 197 The “Golden Wire” aground, 200 Re-embarkation, 201 Reaches Tur, 201 Visits Moses’ Hot Baths, 203 Leaves Tur, 207 Effects of a thirty-six hours’ sail, 209 Makes Damghah anchorage, 213 Enters Wijh Harbour, 214 Sails for Jabal Hassani, 217 Nearly wrecked, 219 Makes Jabal Hassani, 220 Wounds his foot, 221 The halt at Yambu’, 225 Bargains for camels, 230 An evening party at Yambu’, 232 Personates an Arab, 234 His Hamail or pocket Koran, 239 Departure from Yambu’, 241 The Desert, 242 The halting-ground, 244 Resumes the march, 244 Alarm of [p.428] “Harami” or thieves, 249 Reaches Bir Sa’id, 251 Encamps at Al-Hamra, 253 Visits the village, 254 A comfortless day there, 255 Attempt of the Badawin to levy blackmail, 261 Encamps at Bir Abbas, 264 A forced halt, 271 Prepares to mount and march, 272 Scene in the Shuab al-Hajj, 273 Arrives at Shuhada, 274 The favourite halting-place, Bir al-Hindi, 274 Reaches Suwaykah, 275 Has a final dispute with Sa’ad the Demon, 276 Disappearance of the camel-men, 277 First view of the city of Al-Madinah, 279 Poetical exclamations and enthusiasm of the pilgrims, 280 Stays at the house of Shaykh Hamid, 288 The visitors and children there, 291 The style of living at Al-Madinah, 296 View from the majlis’ windows, 297 Visits the Prophet’s tomb, 304 Expensiveness of the visit, 331 Reasons for doubting that the Prophet’s remains are deposited in the Hijrah, 339. Visits the Mosque of Kuba, 398 Sums spent in sightseeing, 411 His “Kayf” at Al-Kuba, 412 Arrival of the “Damascus pilgrimage” at Al-Madinah, 416 The visitation of Ohod, 419 Attends at the Harim in the evening, 433 Visits the cemetery of Al-Bakia, ii. 31 Prepares to leave Al-Madinah, 51 Adieus, 54 The last night at Al-Madinah, 55 The next dangers, 57 The march from Al-Madinah, 59 The first halt, 59 A gloomy pass, 61 Journey from Al-Suwayrkiyah to Meccah, 124 A small feast, 127 A night journey, 132 An attack of the Utaybah, 143 The pilgrim sights Meccah, 152 His first visit to the House of Allah, 160 His uncomfortable lodging, 171 Returns to the Ka’abah, 172 Ceremonies of the day of Arafat, 192 et seq.; and of the Day of Victims, 202 Accident at the Great Devil, 204 Revisits the Ka’abah, 206 The sacrifices at Muna, 217 The sermon at the Harim, 225 Life at Meccah, and the Little Pilgrimage, 227 The pilgrim’s contemplated resolution to destroy the slave trade, 252 Description of a dinner at Meccah, 256 Leaves Meccah, 260 Events on the road, 261, et seq. Enters Jeddah, 265 End of the pilgrim’s peregrinations, 276 Busat, Bir al-, at Kuba, i., 414, n. Business, style of doing, in the East, i. 27 Bassorah, i. 266, n. Butter, clarified (Samn in Arabia, the Indian ghi), used in the East, i. 182, 245 Fondness of Orientals for, ii. 11 Buza’at, Bir al-, at Kuba, i. 414, n.

CAGLIOSTRO, Count (Guiseppe Balsamo), the impostor, his settlement of Greeks at Al-Madinah, i. 292; ii. 25 Cain, his burial-place under Jabal Shamsan, ii. 160, n. Cairo, its celebrated latticed windows, i. 35 Medical practitioners in, 54 Expenses of a bachelor in, 65 A Cairo druggist described, 67 The Abbasiyah palace, 78 Scene from the Mosque of Mohammed Ali by moonlight, 84 A stroll in the city at night, 88 Immense number of Mosques at, 96 Once celebrated [p.429] for its libraries, 101, n. Fanatic Shaykhs of, 113, n. The corporations, or secret societies of, 113 Description of the festival following the Ramazan, 115 The “New Year Calls” at Cairo, 117. Meaning of the name Cairo, 117 The Pressgang in, 117 The inhabitants panic-stricken at the rumours of a conspiracy, 118 Scenes before the police magistrate, 119 Vulgar arabesques on the tombs outside the Bab al-Nasr, 335, n. Gardens in the Mosques of, 337 Magician of, 388, n. Cambay, Gulf of, i. 212 Camel-grass of the Desert, i. 252 Camels, remarks on riding, i. 142 The “nakh,” 152 n. The Shaykh or agent of (the Mukharrij), 230 His duties, 230, n. Loading camels in Arabia, 234 The mas’hab, or stick for guiding, 237 The Arab assertion that the feet of the camel are pained when standing still, 241, n. Mounting a camel, 241 Travelling in Indian file, 243 Pace at which camels travel, 244, n. Method of camel-stealing in Arabia, 250, n. The celebrated camels from Nijd, i. 266, n. Camel-travelling compared with dromedary-travelling, 281 The she-camel which guided Mohammed, 354, 355, 360 Carthartic qualities of camels’ milk, 390 The huge white Syrian dromedary, 418 The Dalul, 418 The Nakah, 418, n. The camels of Al-Madinah, ii. 16 Camel hiring at Al-Madinah, 32 Camel’s sure-footedness, 68 A night-journey with, in the Desert, 132 Specimens of the language used to camels, 133, n. Mode of sacrificing camels, 217, n. Canaanites, identified with the Amalik of the Moslems, i. 343, n. Canal, the proposed, between Pelusium and Suez, i. 143 Capparis, the wild, in Arabia, ii. 72 Caramania, i. 191 Caravan, i. 249 The escort, 249 The Tayyarah, or flying Caravan, ii. 50 The Rakb, or dromedary Caravan, 50 Principal officers of the Caravan to Meccah, ii. 71 Caravanserai, of Egypt. See Wakalah Caste in India, observations on, i. 36, n. Castor-plant, i. 403 Cathedrals, of Spain, proofs of their Oriental origin, i. 307, n. The four largest in the world, 364, n. Catherine, St., convent of, on the shores of the Red Sea, i. 202, n. Cattle, breeding of, among the Badawin, ii. 107 Cautery, the actual, used in cases of dysentery, i. 389 And for the cure of ulcers, 390 Cavalry, Albanian irregular, i. 266 English cavalry tactics defective, 268 Reference to Captain Nolan’s work, 268 Ancient and modern cavalry, 268 The Chasseurs de Vincennes, 269 Cave, of Mount Ohod, i. 423 Celibacy in the East, pernicious effects of, ii. 79, n. Cemetery of Al-Bakia. See Bakia Cemetery of Meccah (Jannat al-Ma’ala), visit to the, ii. 248 Cephren, pyramid of, i. 30 Cereals, of the Madinah plain, i. 404 “Chains, Affair of,” (Zat al-Salasil), ii. 89 [p.430] Chaldæans, in Arabia, ii. 77 Charity, water distributed in, i. 6 Chasseurs de Vincennes, i. 269 Chaunting the Koran, i. 106 Cheops, pyramid of, i. 30 Children of the Arabs, i. 292 Their bad behaviour and bad language, 292 Causes of this, 292, n. Children entrusted to Badawin, ii. 89 Chivalry, Arab, ii. 92 Songs of Antar, 95 Chivalry of the Caliph Al-Mu’tasim, 96 Chob-Chini. See Jin-seng Cholera Morbus in Al-Hijaz. See Rih al-Asfar Christ, personal suffering of, denied by all Moslems, i. 326, n. Christians, colony of, on the shores of the Red Sea, i. 202 Civilisation, the earliest, always took place in a fertile valley, with a navigable river, i. 344 n. Circumambulation. See Tawaf Circumcision, ceremony of, ii. 19 Among the Badawin, ii. 110 The two kinds, Taharah and Salkh, 110. Method of proceeding, 110, n. Cleopatra’s Baths, i. 10 Cleopatra’s Needle, i. 10 Called Pharaoh’s packing-needle by the native Ciceroni, 10, n. Cleopatra, her introduction of Balm of Gilead into Egypt, ii. 148, n. Coffee-house, description of an Eastern, i. 215 Good quality of the coffee drunk at Al-Madinah, i. 290 Filthiness of that of Egypt, 290, n. The “Kishr” of Al-Yaman, 291, n. The coffee-houses of Al-Madinah, 392 Coffee-drinking on the march, ii. 63 The coffee-houses at Muna, 222 Coffee-houses on the road near Meccah, 261 Cole, Mr. Charles, Vice-Consul at Jeddah, his account of the population of the principal towns of Arabia, i. 393, n. His straightforwardness and honesty of purpose, ii. 267 His letter on the trade of Jeddah, 268, n. Colleges (Madrasah), the two, of Al-Madinah, ii. 24 Colligation, system of, in battle, ii. 89. The “Affair of Chains” (Zat al-Salasil), 89, n. Coloquintida, its growth in the Deserts of Arabia, ii. 137 Used as a medicine by the Arabs, 137, n. Comet, apprehensions of the Madani at the appearance of one, ii. 29 Commerce, of Suez, i. 179 Communist principles of Mazdak the Persian, ii. 3, n. Consular dragoman, a great abuse in the East, i. 128, n. Instances of the evils caused by the tribe, 128, n. Hanna Massara, 128, n. Remedies proposed, 128, n. Consular abuses, 129 Conversation, specimen of Oriental, i. 87 Coptic Christians, good arithmeticians, i. 108, n. Coptic artists employed on the Mosque of Al-Madinah, i. 365 Probably half-caste Arabs, ii. 78, n. Coral reefs of the Red Sea. i. 218 Corinthians, fair, not any at Al-Madinah, ii. 19 Those of Jeddah, ii. 270 Cosmetic, Badawi, ii. 81, n. [p.431] Cot, column of the, in the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 336 Cotton seed (Bizr al-Kutn), used as a remedy in dysentery, i. 389 Courtship, Abyssinian style of, i. 59 Covetousness of the Arab, its intensity, ii. 103 Cressets (Mashals), of the East, ii. 132 The Pasha’s cressets, 132, n. Cressy, reference to the battle of, i. 267, n. Crown of Thorns, i. 405, n. Curtain, of the Prophet’s tomb, i. 321

DABISTAN al-Mazahib, i. 344, n. Daggers of the Badawin, ii. 106 Dajjal, Al- (Antichrist), the Moslem belief respecting, i. 378, n. Dakhl, or protection, among the Arabs, ii. 97 Dakkat al-Aghawat, or eunuch’s bench, at Al-Madinah, i. 316, n. Dakruri, Al-, the shrine of the saint, i. 155 Damascus, cathedral of, i. 364 Its eminence among Moslem cities, ii. 133, n. Epithets applied to it, 133, n. Sayings of the Prophet respecting, 133, n. Said to be the burial place of Abel, 160, n. Damascus Caravan, i. 321, n. Brocade of Damascus, 322, n. Rejoicing at Al-Madinah on the arrival of the Caravan, 334 Description of the arrival of at Al-Madinah, 416 The Emir al-Hajj, 420 Number of pilgrims in the, 334 Quarrel between it and that from Baghdad, ii. 128 Stopped in a perilous pass, 143 Grand spectacle afforded by the, on the plain of Arafat, 181 Damghah, Marsa, on the Red Sea, i. 213 Dancing of the Badawin, its wildness, ii. 223 Daniyal, al-Nabi (Daniel the Prophet), tomb of, i. 12 Dar al-Bayda, the viceroy’s palace in the Desert, i. 154 Daraj, Al- (the ladder), at the Ka’abah, ii. 311 Darb al-Sharki, or Eastern road, from Al-Madinah to Meccah, ii. 58 Darb Sultani (the Sultan’s road), i. 260; ii. 58 Dates, the delicious, of Tur, i. 204 Those of the hypæthral court of the Prophet’s Mosque, 337 The date “Al-Sayhani,” 337 The date-groves of Kuba, 381 The fruit of Nijd, 383 The Tamr al-Birni kind used as a diet in small-pox, 385 Celebrity of the dates of Al-Madinah, 400 Varieties of the date-tree, 400 Al-Shelebi date, 400 The Ajwah, 401 Al-Hilwah, 401 Al-Birni, 401 The Washi, 401 The Sayhani, 401 The Khuzayriyah, 401 The Jabali, 401 The Laun, 401 The Hilayah, 402 Fondness of the Madani for dates, 402 Rutab, or wet dates, 402 Variety of ways of cooking the fruit, 402 The merry-makings at the fruit gatherings, 403 Causes of the excellence of the dates of Al-Madinah, 403 The date-trees of Kuba, ii. 338 Da’ud Pasha, his palace at Al-Madinah, i. 394 Daughters of the Prophets, tombs of the, ii. 38 Daurak, or earthern jars, used for cooling the holy water of Zemzem, ii. 310 David, King, i. 212 Darwayshes, wandering, i. 13 A Darwaysh’s the safest disguise, 14 The two orders of Darwayshes, 15 Death, easy in the East, ii. 183 [p.432] Death-wail, of Oriental women, i. 118 Deir, i. 189 Deraiyah, the capital of the Wahhabis, i. 369 Deri dialect, said to be spoken by the Almighty, i. 344, n. Descendants of the Prophet, one of the five orders of pensioners at Al-Madinah, i. 375 Desert, the Great, by moonlight, i. 85 Camel riding in, 143, 148 Reflected heat of, 144, n. Habits and manners of the Badawi camel-men, 146 Peculiarities by which inhabitants of the Desert may be recognised, 146, n. Feeling awakened by a voyage through the Desert, 148 The oases, 149 Unaptly compared to a sandy sea, 150, n. The pleasures of the Desert, 150 Effect of the different seasons in the Desert, 151, n. Pleasures of smoking in the, 152 A midnight halt in the, 154 The absinthe (“Wormwood of Pontus”) of the, 155 Rest under the shade of the mimosa tree, 155 Perfect safety of the Suez road across the, 156 A Badawi ambuscade, 156 Charms of the Desert, 158 The Desert near Yambu’, 242 Fears of the travellers in crossing, 244 Breakfast in the, 244 Dinner in the, 245 Hot winds in the Deserts of Arabia, 247 Desert valleys, 252 Fatal results from taking strong drinks in the Desert during summer heats, 265, n. Discipline of the Desert, ii. 36, n. Effect of Arab poetry in the, 99 Description of an Arabian Desert, 223 Devil, the Great (Shaytan al-Kabir), ceremony of throwing stones at, ii. 204 Second visit to the, 219 Dews in Arabia, i. 245 D’Herbelot, reference to, i. 281, n. Dickson, Dr., his discovery of the chronothermal practice of physic, i. 13 Dictionaries and vocabularies, Egyptian, imperfections of, i. 108, n. Dinner, description of one at Meccah, ii. 256 Discipline, Oriental, must be based on fear, i. 212 Diseases of Al-Hijaz, i. 384 The Rih al-Asfar, or cholera morbus, 384 The Taun, or plague, 384 The Judari, or small-pox, 384 Inoculation, 385 Diseases divided by Orientals into hot, cold, and temperate, 385 Ophthalmia, 385 Quotidian and tertian fevers (Hummah Salis), 386 Low fevers (Hummah), 387 Jaundice and bilious complaints, 387 Dysenteries, 388 Popular medical treatment, 389 The Filaria Medinensis (Farantit), 389 Vena in the legs, 389 Hydrophobia, 389 Leprosy (Al-Baras), 389 Ulcers, 390 Divination, Oriental, i. 12 Divinity, study of, in Egypt, i. 105 The Sharh, 105 Books read by students in, 105, n. Divorces, frequency of, among the Badawin, ii. 111 Diwan, luxury of the, i. 295 Diwani, value of the Hijazi coin so called, ii. 11, n. Doctors. See Medicine Dogs, pugnacity of, of Al-Madinah, i. 301 Superstitions respecting them, 302 Donkey boys of Egypt, i. 111, n. Donkeys, despised by the Badawin, i. 304 [p.433] Dragoman, consular. See Consular dragoman Dress, Oriental; gold ornaments forbidden to be worn by the Moslem law, i. 34, n., 236, n. Fashions of young Egyptians, 99 Faults of Moslem ladies’ dressing, 123, n. Dress of the Maghrabis, 156 The face-veil of Moslem ladies, 229 The Lisam of Constantinople, 229, n. The Lisam of Arab Shaykhs, 235 Description of an Arab Shaykh fully equipped for travelling, 235 The Kamis, or cotton shirt, 236 The Aba, or camel’s hair cloak, 236 The Arab and Indian sandal, 236 Dress of the poorer classes of Arabs, 237 The belt for carrying arms, 238 Dress of the Benu-Harb, 248 The Kufiyah, 265, n. Costume of the Arab Shaykhs of the Harbis, 266 Dress of Madinite Shaykh, 289 Articles of dress of city Arabs, 289, n. Dress of a Zair, or visitor to the sepulchre of the Prophet, 309 n. Dress of the Benu-Hosayn, ii. 4 Costume of the Madani, 14 Dress of the Badawin, 115 The ceremony of Al-Ihram (or assuming the pilgrim dress) on approaching Meccah, 139 Costume of the regions lying west of the Red Sea, 139 The style of dress called Taylasan, 226 Drinking bout with an Albanian, i. 153 Drinking water, Oriental method of, i. 6 Drinks, intoxicating, not known to the Badawin, ii. 118 Dromedaries, sums charged for the hire of, i. 141 Dromedary-travelling compared with camel-travelling, i. 281 Dromedaries of Al-Madinah, ii. 16 Druze mysteries, foundation of, i. 97 Dry storms of Arabia, i. 247 Dua, the, or supplication after the two-bow prayers, i. 312, n. Dubajet, Aubert, i. 112. n. Dust storms, ii. 129 Dye used for the beard, ii. 14 Dysentery, frequent occurrence of, in the fruit season in Arabia, i. 388 Popular treatment of, 389 Dwellings of the Arabs in the time of Mohammed, i. 357

EARNEST money (arbun), ii. 52 Ebna, the descendants of the soldiers of Anushirwan, ii. 78, n. Echinus, the, common in the Red Sea, i. 221, n. Eddeh, Al-, the dress in the baths at Cairo, ii. 139 Education, Moslem, i. 185, et seq. Remarks on Mr. Bowring’s strictures on, 109 Egypt, curiosity of the police, i. 2 Alexandria, 8, 10 Egypt’s first step in civilisation, 17 Inconveniences of the passport system of, 18 Officials of, 19 Her progress during the last half-century, 28 The Nile, 29 The Barrage bridge, 30 The Wakalahs or inns of, 41 The tobacco of, 64 Shortness of the lives of the natives of Lower Egypt, 69 The worst part of the day in, 77 All Agapemones suppressed in, 81 Fashions of young Egyptians, 99 Subjects taught in Egyptian schools, 103, et seq. Theology in Egypt, 106 State of learning not purely religious, 107, et seq. Degenerate state of modern Egyptian taste in poetry, 108, n. Acquirements of the Egyptians in the exact sciences, 108, n. And in natural [p.434] science, 108 Their capabilities for being good linguists, 180, n. Their knowledge of the higher branches of language, 108, n. State of periodical literature in Egypt, 109, n. Bigotry of the Egyptians, 110 Their feelings at the prospect of the present Russian war, 111 Their views respecting various nations of foreigners, 111 Their longings for European rule, 111 Their hatred of a timid tyranny, 112 An instance of this, 112, n. The proposed ship canal and railway in, 113 Importance of, to the rulers of India, 113 Secret societies of, 113 Press-gangs in, 117 Employment of Albanian Irregulars in, 133 Semi-religious tradition of the superiority of Osmanlis over Egyptians, 147, n. Story respecting this, 148 Seasons of severe drought, 180 Diseases of the country, 181 Food of the Suezians, 182 Reason of the superiority in the field of Egyptian soldiers, 184 Insolence of demeanour and coarseness of language of the officials in Egypt, 194, n. Ruinous state of Al-Hijaz, the effect of the wars between the Egyptians and the Wahhabis, 254, n. Bad quality of the coffee of, 290, n. The scourge of ophthalmia, 385, n. The pot-bellied children of the banks of the Nile, 406, n. Their monopoly of milk, curds, and butter, at Al-Madinah, ii. 9 “Elephant, affair of the,” ii. 321, n. Embracing, Oriental mode of, i. 287 Emir al-Hajj, of the Damascus Caravan, ii. 420 His privileges, 420 Abu Bakr the first Emir al-Hajj, 420, n. English, how regarded in Egypt, i. 111 Fable in Arabia, respecting their desire to become Moslems, ii. 230 Eothen, reference to, i. 388, n. Epithets, Arab, i. 277, n., 305, 327 The epithets applied to Al-Madinah, 377 Applied to the Syrians, ii. 133 And to Damascus, 133, n. Era, Moslem, commencement of, i. 355, n. Erythræan Sea, i. 196, n. Escayrac de Lanture, M., his preparations for a pilgrimage to Meccah, i. 4, n. Esmah, Sultanah, sister of Sultan Mahmud, i. 371 Etiquette in Al-Hijaz, i. 419, n. Eunuchs of the Prophet’s tomb, i. 316, n., 321, n., 322, n., 371, n. Antiquity of eunuchs, 371, n. Originated with Semiramis, 371, n. Employment of, unknown at the time of the Prophet, 371, n. Considerations which gave rise to the employment of, 371, n. Method of addressing them, 371, n. Value of the title of Eunuch of the Tomb, 371, n. Shaykh of the Eunuchs, 371 The three orders of Eunuchs of the Tomb, 371 The curious and exceptional character of the eunuch, 372 His personal appearance 372 Value of eunuch slaves at Al-Madinah, ii. 13 Eunuchs of the Mosque at Meccah, ii. 319 Respect paid to a eunuch at Meccah, 255 Euphorbiæ, in Arabia, ii. 72 Eve’s tomb, near Jeddah, ii. 273 Traditions respecting it, 275 Ezion-Geber, i. 189

FACE-GASHING in Meccah, ii. 234 In other countries, 234, n. Fadak, town of, founded by the Jews, i. 347 [p.435] Faddah, value of the Egyptian, ii. 11, n. Fahd, Shaykh, the robber-chief, i. 257 Fa-hian quoted, ii. 276 Fairies, good and bad, origin of, i. 314 Fakihs, at the Mosque at Al-Madinah, i. 316 Falconry, among the Arabs, ii. 104 Origin of the sport, 104, n. Its perfection as a science in the 12th century, 104 Farainah (Pharaohs), origin of, according to the Moslem writers, i. 344 Faraj Yusuf, the merchant of Jeddah, i. 47 Farantit. Filaria Medinensis Farrash (tent-pitchers, &c.), ii. 71 Farrashin, or free servants of the Mosque, i. 372 “Farsh al-Hajar,” of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 332 Faruk, the Separator, a title of the Caliph Omar, i. 320 Farz, or obligatory prayers, i. 311, n. Fasts, Moslems’, i. 76 Fath, the Masjid al- (of Victory), ii. 48 Fatihah, i. 194, 200 Repeated at the tomb of the Prophet, 319 Said for friends or relations, 319, n. Fatimah, the Lady, her tomb at Al-Madinah, i. 308, n. Gate of, 315 Prayer repeated at her tomb, 327 Epithets applied to her, 327, n. The doctrine of her perpetual virginity, 327, n. Her garden in the Mosque of the Prophet, 337 Three places lay claim to be her burial-place, 339 Mosque of, at Kuba, 411 Her tomb, ii. 42 Obscurity of tradition respecting her last resting-place, 42, n. Her birth-place, 251 Fatimah bin As’ad, mother of Ali, her tomb, ii. 43, n. Fattumah, i. 174 Fatur (breakfast), i. 79 Fayruz, the murderer of Omar, i. 435 Fayruzabadi, his Kamus, or Lexicon, i. 108, n., ii. 98, n. Fazikh, the Masjid al- (of Date-liquor), ii. 45 “Fealty of the Steep, the First,” i. 352 “The Second Fealty of the Steep,” 352 “Great Fealty of the Steep,” 353 Festivals, following the Ramazan, i. 115, 116 Scene of jollity at the cemetery outside the Bab al-Nasr, 116 Feuds between the Desert and the City Arabs, ii. 18 Fevers, quotidian and tertian (Hummah Salis), in Arabia, i. 386 Remedies for, 389 Fiends, summoning of, favourite Egyptian pursuit, i. 109, n. Fijl, (radishes), i. 404 Fikh (divinity), study of, in schools, i. 104 Filaria Medinensis (Farantit), not now common at Al-Madinah, i. 389 Finati, Giovanni, Hajji Mohammed, his pilgrimage, i. 199, n., 262, ii. 390 Sketch of his adventures, 390, et seq. Fire-worship introduced into Arabia from India, ii. 160, n. Agni, the Indian fire-god, 160, n. Fiumaras, of Arabia, i. 3 The Fiumara “Al-Sayh,” i. 399 That of Mount Ohod, 424 Flight (the), of Mohammed, i. 354, 355, n. [p.436] Flowers of Arabia, i. 251 Of India, 251 Of Persia, 251 Food of the Badawin, ii. 116 Their endurance of hunger, 116 Method of cooking locusts, 117 Their favourite food on journeys, 117 Forskal, i. 218 Forster, Rev. C., strictures on his attack on Gibbon, ii. 76, n. Fortress of Al-Madinah, i. 393 Forts of the East, a specimen of, i. 157 Fountain, the public (Sabil), of Al-Madinah, i. 391 French, their popularity in Egypt, i. 111 Causes of this, 111 Friday sermon, of the Prophet, i. 335 Fruit trees, of Al-Madinah, i. 400 Fugitives, pillar of, in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 335 Fukahs, or poor divines, of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 375 Fukayyir, Bir al-, at Kuba, i. 414, n. Funerals, Arab, ii. 23 Description of a burial at Al-Bakia, 32 Funeral ceremonies of the Badawin, ii. 111

GABRIEL the Archangel. Jibrail Gabriel’s Gate (Bab Jibrail), i. 333 Gabriel’s place (Makan Jibrail), in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 336 Gabriel the Archangel, his communications to the Prophet, i. 360, 361, 363 Galla slave girls, their value, ii. 13 Gallantry of Orientals, i. 210 Ungallantry of some “Overlands,” 210 Gambling not in existence among the Badawin, ii. 107 Gara tribe of Arabs, i. 145. Low development of the indigens of, ii. 77 Garden of our Lady Fatimah, in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 337 Date trees of, 337 Venerable palms of, 337 Gardens not uncommon in Mosques, 337 Garlic and onions, use of, in the East, i. 32, n. Gates of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Geesh, Lord of, i. 8 Genealogy of the Arabs, intricacy of the subject, ii. 119, n. The best known Arabic genealogical works, 119, n. Generalisation unknown to the Arabs, i. 250, n. Geographical Society (Royal) of London; its zeal for discovery, i. 1. Geography among the modern Egyptians, i. 108, n., 250 Geology of the neighbourhood of Al-Madinah, i. 279 Of the road between Al-Madinah and Meccah, ii. 73 Geomancy, favourite Egyptian pursuit of, i. 158, n. Geometry, study of, in Egypt, i. 158, n. George Inn, at Suez, i. 159 Society at the, 161, 173 Ghabbah, Al-, or the watershed of Al-Madinah, i. 381 Ghadir, Al-, description of the plan of, ii. 134 The three wells of the Caliph Harun at, 134 Ghalib, the late Sharif of Meccah, revered as a saint, i. 340, n. Purchases the treasures of the Prophet’s tomb from Sa’ad the Wahhabi, 369 Ghaliyah, her heroism, ii. 94 Ghazi, or a crusader, i. 329, n. [p.437] Ghazi (twenty-two piastres), paid to the free servants of the Mosque, i.372 Ghi, of India, ii. 12 Considered by Indians almost as a panacea for diseases and wounds, 12, n. Ghul (Devil), how expelled from persons suffering from hydrophobia, i. 389 Ghul, the hill near Meccah, ii. 147 Ghurbal, Bir al-, at Kuba, i. 414, n. Ghuri, Al-, the Sultan, his additions to the Ka’abah, ii. 307 Ghuzat, or crusaders, i. 329, n. Giants (Jahabirah), who fought against Israel, i. 344 Gibbon, his derivation of the name Saracens, ii. 76, n. The Rev. C. Forster’s Attack on him, 76, n. Gibraltar, i. 7 Gilead, Balm of, grows as a weed in Al-Hijaz, ii. 148 Name by which it is known to the Arabs, 148, n. Its value in the valley of the Jordan, 148, n. Introduced by Cleopatra into Egypt, 148, n. Places where the best balsam is produced, 149, n. Qualities of the best kind, 149, n. Description of the tree, 149 Goat, the milk of, ii. 17, n. The flesh of, 17, n. Gold ornaments, forbidden by the Moslem law to be worn, i. 34, n.; 236 “Golden Wire,” the pilgrim-ship, i. 188 Its wretched state, 188 Ali Murad, the owner, 189 The passengers, 189 Riot on board, 191 Halt near the Hammam Bluffs, 197 Runs aground, 200 Goose (Sand-), the, i. 154 Gospel of Infancy, quotation from, ii. 148, n. Grammar, how taught in Egyptian schools, i. 104 Prosody among the Arabs, 107 Granites (Suwan), of the plains of Arabia, ii. 74 Of Meccah, 295, n. Grapes of Al-Madinah, ii. 404 The Sharifi grape, 404 The Hijazi, 404 The Sawadi, or black grape, 404 The Raziki, or small white grape, 404 Gratitude, no Eastern word for, i. 51 Graves, shape of, of the Badawin, i. 274. Injunctions of Mohammed to his followers to visit, 314, n. At Mount Ohod, 430 Musannam, or raised graves, 430 Musattah, or level graves, 430 The graves of the saints at Al-Bakia, ii. 32 Greek Emperor, his presents to the Mosque of Al-Madinah, i. 365 Greeks, hated in Egypt, i. 111 Those settled on the Red Sea, 202 Those in Al-Madinah, 292 Guebres, fable of, respecting man’s good works, 313, n. Their ancient fire-temples in Arabia and Persia, 379, n. Their claim to the Ka’abah, ii. 301 Fire worship introduced from India, 160, n. Guest-dish, ii. 12 “Gugglets,” for cooling water, i. 399 Gunpowder play (La’ab al-Barut) of the Arabs, ii. 86 Guns sounding the order of the march, ii. 71 The guns of the Badawin, 105 Gypsum, tufaceous, in the Desert, ii. 134

HABASH (Abyssinia), i. 177 [p.438] Haddah, Al-, the settlement so called, ii. 202 Hadis (the traditions of the Prophet), study of, in schools, i. 104, 305 Hæmorrhoids, frequency of, in Al-Hijaz, i. 389 Treatment of, 389 Hagar, her tomb at Meccah, ii. 305, n. Hajar al-Akhzar, or green stone, of the Ka’abah, ii. 305, n. Hajar al-Aswad (Black Stone), the famous, of the Ka’abah, ii. 300 (See Black Stone) Hajar Shumaysi (yellow sandstone) of Meccah, ii. 295, n. Haji Wali, i. 43, 44 His advice to the pilgrim, 44, 45 His lawsuit, 46 His visit to the “Consul-General” at Cairo, 86 Accompanies the author in paying visits, 116 Introduces the pilgrim to the Persian Consul, 128 His horror at a drinking bout, 137 Takes leave of the pilgrim, 142 Hajin, the Egyptian she-dromedary, i. 418, n. Hajj (pilgrimage), difference between the, and the Ziyarat, i. 305 The Hajj (or simple pilgrimage), ii. 281 Hajj al-Akbar (the great pilgrimage), 281 Hajj bin Akhtah, plots against Mohammed, i. 358 Hajj al-Shami (the Damascus pilgrimage), i. 416 Hajjaj bin Yusuf, general of Abd al-Malik, ordered to rebuild the House of Allah, ii. 324 Hajjat al-Farz (obligatory pilgrimage), ii. 280 The Hajjat al-Islam (the pilgrimage of the Mohammedan faith), 280 Hakim, Al-, bi ’Amri’llah, his attempt to steal the bodies of the Prophet and his two companions, i. 367 Hakim, Al-, the Sultan of Egypt, i. 97 “Halal,” to, a sheep, i. 256 Halimah (the Lady), the Badawi wet-nurse of the Prophet, her tomb, i. 328, n., ii. 36 Halliwell, Mr., his mistake respecting the “Methone” of Sir John Mandeville, ii. 286 Hamail, or pocket Koran, of pilgrims, i. 239 Hamid al-Samman, Shaykh, description of, i. 162, 200 Lands at Yambu’, 225 Vaunts the strong walls of Yambu’, 242 Leaves Yambu’, 242 Halal of a sheep in the desert, 256 His fear of the Badawin, 261 His determination to push through the nest of robbers, 271 Takes his place in the Caravan, 272 Arrives at Al-Madinah, 281 His toilet after the journey, 288 His hospitality to the pilgrim, 288 Improvement in his manners, 290 Behaviour of his children, 292 His real politeness, 294 Description of his abode, 295 His household, 296 Accompanies the pilgrim to the Prophet’s tomb, 304 Introduces the pilgrim to the Prophet’s window, 321 Accompanies him to the Mosque of Kuba, 398 And to Mount Ohod, 419, et seq. And to the cemetery of Al-Bakia, ii. 31 et seq. Procures a faithful camel-man for the journey to Meccah, 51 His debt forgiven, 56 Hamidah, the principal family of the Benu-Harb, i. 257 Their attack on the Caravan, 273 Hammam, or the hot bath, i. 70 Hamra, Al-, i. 249 Derivations of its name, 253 Called also Al-Wasitah, 253 Encamped at, 253 Description of the village of, 254 The fortress of, 255 [p.439] Hamra, Al-, the third station from Al-Madinah in the Darb Sultani, i. 260 Hamra, Al-, the torrent, i. 278, n. Hamzah, friend of Mohammed, prayer in honour of, i. 328 Sent forward by the Prophet to Al-Madinah, 354 Mosque of, 426 The place where he was slain, 433 Hanafi school, their views respecting the proper dress for visiting the Prophet’s tomb, i. 309, n. Their place of prayer at, i. 310 Mufti of, at Al-Madinah, 373 Their practice of nighting at Muzdalifah, ii. 201 Hanafi sect, its station for prayer at the Ka’abah, ii. 308 Its importance in Meccah, 309, n. Hanbali school, i. 373 Its station for prayer at the Ka’abah, ii. 308 Hands, clapping of (Safk), practice of in the East, ii. 223 Hanna Massara, the Consular Dragoman of Cairo, i. 128, n. Haramayn, or sanctuaries, the two of Al-Islam, i. 230, n.; i. 304 “Harami,” or thieves, in the Desert, i. 261 Harb, the Benu, the present ruling tribe in the Holy Land, ii. 119 Its divisions and sub-divisions, 119 et n. Harbis, of Al-Hijaz, i. 266 Harim, (or Sanctuary), the Prophet’s, at Al-Madinah, i. 298, 305, 307 The Shaykh al-, or principal officer of the Mosque, 371 The Mudir al-, or chief treasurer of the Tomb of the Prophet, 371 The Huddud al-Harim, 379 All Muharramat or sins forbidden within the, 379, n. Dignity of the Harim, 380, n. See Ka’abah Harim, of a Madinite, i. 298 Harim, arrangements of the, ii. 91 Its resemblance to a European home, 91 Hariri, Al-, poem of, i. 108, n. Harrah, or ridges of rock, i. 251; 251, n. Al-Harratayn, 279, n. Harrah, or ridge, as represented in our popular works, i. 341 Meaning of the term, i. 421, n. The second and third Harrahs, 421, n., 424 The Prophet’s prediction at the Harrah Al-Wakin or Al-Zahrah, 421, n. “The affair of the Ridge,” 421, n. Harun, the Kubbat, or Aaron’s tomb, on Mount Ohod, i. 423 Harun al-Rashid. His three wells at Al-Ghadir, ii. 70, 134 His pilgrimages and crusades, 136 Harun Bir (well of Harun), ii. 70 Hasan, grandson of Mohammed, i. 97, n. Prayers for, 327 His descendants at Al-Madinah, ii. 3, n. His tomb, 40 Burckhardt’s mistakes respecting him, 40, n. His death by poison 40, n. Hasan al-Marabit, Shaykh, tomb of, on the shore of the Red Sea, i. 218 Hasanayn Mosque, at Cairo, i. 97 Hasan the Imam, requests to be buried near the Prophet, i. 325 Hasan, Sultan, Mosque of, at Cairo, i. 98 Hasan, Jabal (Mount Hasan), i. 220 Hashim, great grandfather of the Prophet, i. 351, n. Hashish, smoking i. 44 Haswah, or gravelled place, i. 307 Hatchadur Nury, Mr., his friendship with the author, i. 122 [p.440] Hatim, the generous Arab chieftain, i. 166 Hatim, Al- (the broken), of the Ka’abah, ii. 305 Hawamid Arabs. Their fight with the Hawazim, ii. 28 Hawazim Arabs, their furious fight with the Hawamid, ii. 28 Their Shaykhs, Abbas and Abu Ali, ii. 28 “Haye” in military tactics, i. 267, n. Haykal! Ya (sons of Haykal), explained, i. 30, n. Hazirah, or presence, i. 316 Hazramaut, the Arabs of, i. 240, n. Hazrat Ali, apparition of, ii. 184 Heat, the reflected, at Yambu’, ii. 232 The hot wind of the Desert, 247, 264 Sun-strokes, 265, n. The great heats near the Red Sea prejudicial to animal generation, 265, n. The hour at which the sun is most dangerous, i. 275 Terrible heat at Al-Hijaz, ii. 221 Unbearable at Meccah, 228 Heathenry, remnants of, in Arabia, i. 4 Hebrew, points of resemblance between, and Pahlavi, ii, 79, n. Heliopolis, Balm of Gilead of, ii. 148, n. Hemp-drinkers, Egyptian, ii. 189, 191 Henna powder, i. 400, n. Herklots, Dr., reference to his work “Qanoon-i-Islam,” i. 388, n. Quoted, ii. 304, n. Hermaic books, the, i. 385, n. “Herse,” in military tactics, i. 267 n. Hijaz, Al-, dangers and difficulties of, i. 2 Antiquity and nobility of the Muzaynah tribe in, 145, 146 Land route to, from Suez, 158 Persecution of Persians in, 232, n. The Badawi blackmail in, 233, n. Description of the shugduf or litter of, 233, n. Abounds in ruins, 254 Sa’ad the robber chief of, 256 Shaykh Fahd, the robber chief, 257 Wretched state of the government in, 257, 258 The charter of Gulhanah, 258 The Darb Sultani, 260 Heat in Al-Hijaz, 265 Douceurs given by the Turks to the Arab shaykhs of, 266 “Al-Shark,” 266, n. Fight between the Arabs and soldiers in, 269 Peopled by the soldiers of the children of Israel, 347 Limits of, 379 Meaning of the name, 380 Rainy season in, 383 Diseases of, 384 Number of the Turkish forces in, 393, n. Account of the Badawin of, ii. 76, et seq. (See Badawin) Money of, 111, n. Observations on the watershed of, 154 Purity of the water throughout, 194 Healthiness of the people of, 229 Hijazi, the grape so called, i. 404 Hijriyah, Al-, halt at, ii. 71 Hilayah, the date so called, i. 401 Hilwah, Al-, the date so called, i. 402 Himyaritic tribes, their mixture with the Amalikah, ii. 79 Hinda, mother of Mu’awiyah, her ferocity, i. 433, n. Her name of “Akkalat al-Akbad,” 433, n. Hindi, Jabal, at Meccah, ii. 153 “Hindu-Kush,” the, i. 243, n. Hindus, their square temples similar in form to the Mosque, ii. 300, n. Their litholatry, 301, n. The Ka’abah claimed as a sacred place by them, 301, n. [p.441] History (Tawarikh), study of, little valued in Egypt, i. 107, n. Hitman tribe of Arabs, the lowness of their origin, ii. 121 Unchastity of their women, 121 Hogg, Sir James, i. 1 Holofernes, general of Nebuchadnezzar I., i. 347, n. Honey, the Arabs curious in, and fond of, ii. 130, n. The different kinds of honey, 130, n. Honorarium (ikram), given to the Madani who travel, ii. 7 “Horde,” probable origin of the word, i. 394, n. Horses, Arabian, i. 3 The celebrated, of Nijd, i. 266, n., ii. 195 Horses of the Arnaut Irregulars, i. 267 Pugnacity of the, of Al-Madinah, 301 The, of Al-Madinah, ii. 16 Price of horses in time of Solomon, 195, n. Egyptian horses, 195, n. Qualities of a pure Arab horse, 195, n. The former horse trade of Yaman, 195, n. The breed supplied to India, 196, n. Hosayn, Al-, grandson of Mohammed, i. 98, n. His death at Kerbela, ii. 40, n. His head preserved in the Mosque Al-Hasanayn at Cairo, ii. 40, n. Hosayn, Benu, become guardians of the Prophet’s tomb, i. 368, ii. 3, n. Head-quarters of the, at Suwayrkiyah, 3 Their former numbers and power, 3 Their heretical tenets, 3 Their personal appearance, 4 Their town of Al-Suwayrkiyah, 124 Hosayn bin Numayr, his siege of Meccah, ii. 323 Hosh, Al-, or the central area of a dwelling-house, i. 307, 397 Hosh ibn Sa’ad, at Madinah, the residence of the Benu Hosayn, ii. 4 Hospitality in the East, i. 36 House hire in Egypt, i. 42, 65 Houses of the Arabs at the time of Mohammed, 356 Those of Al-Madinah, 393 Those at Meccah, description of, ii. 171 Hudud al-Hatim, or limits of the sanctuary, i. 379 Hufrah (holes dug for water in the sand) ii. 62 Hufrah, Al- (the digging), of the Ka’abah, ii. 304, n. Hujjaj, or pilgrims, i. 329 Hujrah, or Chamber of Ayishah, description of, i. 314 Errors of Burckhardt and M. Caussin, respecting the word, 314, n. Its walls rebuilt, 324, n. Referred to, 325-329 Surrounded by a mud wall by the Caliph Omar, 363 Enclosed within the Mosque by Al-Walid, 366 Spared from destruction by lightning, 368 Hukama, or Rationalists, of Al-Islam, ii. 201 Hummum Bluffs (Hammam Faraun), i. 197 Hummi tobacco, i. 66, n. Hurayrah, Abu, his account of the Benu Israel in Arabia, i. 346 Hydrophobia, rarity of, in Al-Hijaz, i. 388 Popular superstition respecting, 388 Treatment of, 388 Hyksos, the, identified with the Amalik of the Moslems, i. 343, n. “Hypocrites,” conspiracy of the, i. 358

IAMBIA, of Ptolemy, i. 225 Ibn Asm, or Ibn Rumi, slain, i. 94 His sister, 94 Ibn Batutah, reference to, i. 12 n., 265, n. Ibn Dhaher Berkouk, King of Egypt, rebuilds the Mosque at Meccah, ii. 296 [p.442] Ibn Haukal, reference to, i. 4, n., 17, n. Ibn Hufazah al-Sahmi, his tomb, ii. 43, n. Ibn Jubayr, reference to, i. 279, n. Ibn Kasim, his commentary, i. 106 Ibn Zubayr, chief of Meccah, rebuilds the Ka’abah, ii. 299 Ibrahim, catafalque of, in the great Mosque of Meccah, i. 324, n. Ibrahim, the Makam, at the Ka’abah, ii. 307, n., 311, 325 Ibrahim, infant son of the Prophet, his burial-place, ii. 32, 37 Ibrahim Pasha, his ships on the Red Sea, i. 170 Ibrahim bin Adham, his vision, ii. 184, n. Ichthyophagi, the modern, of the Red Sea, i. 218, n., 221 Idrisi, Al-, i. 195 Ignatius, Epistles of, to the Smyrneans, references to, i. 326, n. Ihlal, the pilgrim dress so called, ii. 205 Ihn, Bir, at Kuba, i. 414, n. Ihram, Al- (assuming the pilgrim garb), the ceremony so called, ii. 138 Change from Ihram to Ihlal, 205 Ceremonies of, 284 The Victims of Al-Ihram, 286 Ijabah, the Masjid al- (the Mosque of Granting), ii. 47, 153, n. Ikamah, or call to divine service, ii. 311, n. Ikhlas, Al-, the chapter of the Koran, i. 429 Ihram (honorarium) given to the Madani who travel, i. 263, ii. 7 The four kinds of, 7 Ilal, Jabal (Mount of Wrestling in Prayer). See Arafat, Mount Ilfrad, Al- (singulation), the pilgrimage so called, ii. 280 Imans, of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 313, n., 374, 375 Place where they pray, i. 335, 338 Imlik, great-great-grandson of Noah, the ancestor of the Amalikah, ii. 321 Immigrations of the Arabian people, i. 344 India, style of doing business in, i. 27 Observations on caste in, 36, n. Real character of the natives of, 37-40 Popular feeling in, respecting British rule, and causes of this, 37, n. No European should serve an Eastern lord, 39 The natives a cowardly and slavish people, 40 Their cowardice compared with the bravery of the North American Indians, 40 Testimony of Sir Henry Elliot to this, 40, n. An instance of Indian improvidence, 157, n. Luxuriance of the plains of, 251 Indian pilgrims protected by their poverty, 265 The Duke of Wellington’s dictum about the means of preserving health in, 265, n. Wells of the Indians in Arabia, 274 n. Their sinful method of visiting the Prophet’s tomb, 305 Generosity of Indian pilgrims, 331, n. Their drawings of the holy shrines as published at Meccah, 342 Dress and customs of the Indian women settled at Al-Madinah, ii. 6 Recklessness of poor Indian pilgrims, ii. 184 Remedies, proposed, 185 Qualities of the horses of, obtained from the Persian Gulf, 195, n. Profuseness of Indian pilgrims, 210 Indian Ocean (Sea of Oman), the shores of, when first peopled, according to Moslem accounts, i. 344, n. Inns. See Wakalah Inoculation practised in Al-Madinah, i. 384 [p.443] “Inshallah bukra” (please God, to-morrow), ii. 21 Intermarriages, theory of the degeneracy which follows, ii. 84 Dr. Howe’s remarks on, 84, n. Intonation and chaunting of the Koran taught in Moslem schools, i. 106, n. Irak, Al-, expedition of Tobba al-Asghar against, i. 349 Iram, flood of, i. 348 Ireland, probable origin of its name, ii. 239, n. Irk al-Zabyat, mountain, ii. 274, n. Isa bin Maryam, reference to, ii. 274, n. Spare tomb at Al-Madinah for him after his second coming, 325 Isha, or Moslem night prayer, i. 233 Ishmael (Ismail), his tomb at Meccah, ii. 305 The two-bow prayer over the grave of, 176 Ishmaelites, of the Sinaitic peninsula, ii. 78 Their distinguishing marks, 78 Ismail Pasha murdered by Malik Nimr, chief of Shendy, i. 138, n. Ismid, a pigment for the eyes, i. 381, n. Israel Benu, rule of, in Arabia, i. 345 See Jews Israelites, course of the, across the Red Sea, i. 199 Israfil, the trumpet of, on the last day, i. 340, n. Istikharah, or divination, ii. 23 Italians, how regarded in Egypt, i. 111 Izar, the portion of a pilgrim’s dress so called, ii. 139

JA AL-SHARIFAH, the halting-ground, ii. 63 Ja’afar al-Sadik, the Imam, his tomb, ii. 40, 41, n. Ja’afar Bey (governor of Suez), i. 147 Account of him, 160 Jababirah (giants), who fought against Israel, i. 344 Jabariti, from Habash, i. 177 Jahaydah, a straggling line of villages, i. 262 Jama, meaning of, i. 97 Jama Taylun, mosque, i. 96 Jama’at, or public prayers, in Al-Rauzah, i. 330, n. Jami al-Sakhrah, at Arafat, ii. 192 Jami Ghamamah at Al-Manakhah, i. 395 Jannat al-Ma’ala (the cemetery of Meccah), visit to, ii. 248 Jauf, Al-, excellence of the dates of, i. 383 Jauhar, founder of the Mosque of Al-Azhar, i. 102 Jaundice, common in Arabia, i. 387 Popular cure for, 387 Java, number of Moslem pilgrims from, to Meccah, i. 179 Javelin, (Mizrak), description of the Arab, i. 237 Jazb al-Kulub ila Diyar al-Mahbub, the work so called, ii. 358, n. Jabal, observations on the word, i. 220, n. Jabali, the date so called, i. 401 Jeddah, slave trade at, i. 47 Price of perjury at, 47 Value of the exports from Suez to, 178 Jews settled in, 346, n. Population of, 393, n. Unsuccessful attempt of the Wahhabis to storm it, ii. 265, n. Considered by the Meccans to be a perfect Gibraltar, 265 The Wakalah of Jeddah, 266 The British Vice-Consul, Mr. Cole, 266 Different descriptions of the town, 267, 268 The fair Corinthians at, 270 How the time passes at Jeddah, 272 [p.444] Jahaymah, tribe of Arabs, i. 145 Jamal, Amm, his advice to the pilgrim, i. 233 Reproved for his curiosity, 243 Jamal al-Din of Isfahan, his improvements of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 366, n. Janabah, low development of the indigens of, ii. 77 Janazah, Darb al- (Road of Biers), at Al-Madinah, i. 395 “Jangli,” an opprobrious name applied to the English rulers of India, i. 36 Jarid, or palm-sticks, with which the houses of the Arabs were made, i. 357 Jazzar Pasha, i. 263 Jews, former settlements of, in Arabia, i. 345 Entirely extinct at present, 347, n. Take refuge from Nebuchadnezzar in Arabia, 347 Towns founded by them in Arabia, 347 Fall into idolatry, 347 Given over to the Arabs, 347 Their power in Al-Madinah, 350 Their conspiracy against the Prophet, 358 Their expectation of the advent of their Messiah, 358 Jibrail, Mahbat, or place of Gabriel’s Descent, i. 326, 333, n. Jibrail, Makam (Gabriel’s Place), in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 336 Jibrail, Bab al- (Gabriel’s Gate), i. 333 Jinn, the Masjid al- (Mosque of the Genii), at Meccah, ii. 250 Jin-seng, or China root, notice of, i. 56, n. Jiyad, Jabal, the two hills so called, ii. 174 Jizyat, or capitation tax levied on infidels, i. 233, n. Job, tomb of, ii. 275, n. Journey, a day’s length of, ii. 63, n. Jubayr, Ibn, on the position of the tombs of the Prophet and the first two Caliphs, i. 324 Referred to, i. 399, n., ii. 40 Jubayr bin Mutin, his march to Ohod, i. 433 Jubbah, i. 17, n. Judari, Al- (or Small-pox), indigenous to the countries bordering the Red Sea, i. 384 Inoculation practised in Al-Madinah, i. 385 The disease how treated, i. 385 Inoculation in Yaman, i. 385, n. Diet of the patient, i. 385 Jumah, Bab al-, or Friday gate, of Al-Madinah, i. 391 The cemetery of Schismatics near, 395 Jumah, the Masjid al-, near Al-Madinah, ii. 45 Jumma Masjid, of Bijapur, the third largest cathedral in the world, i. 364, n. Jurh al-Yamani (the Yaman ulcer), i. 390 Jurham, the Benu, their mixture with the Himyaritic tribes, ii. 79 Their foundation of the sixth House of Allah, 322 Legend of their origin, 322 Justinian, i. 202, n.

KA’AB, the Jewish priest of Al-Madinah, i. 350, n. Ka’ab al-Ahbar (or Akhbar), poems of, i. 107, n., 146 Ka’abah (or Bayt Ullah) i. 305, 321, n. Superstitious reverence of the Jews of Al-Madinah for, 350, n. Miraculously shown to Mohammed by the archangel Gabriel, 361. Times of the opening [p.445] of, ii. 398 Extracts from Burckhardt’s description of, 294 Its dimensions, ii. 294 Its domes and pillars, 294 Its bad workmanship, 295 Periods of opening it, 298 The doors of, 298 The famous Hijar al-Aswad, or Black Stone, 300 The Rukn al-Yamai, 303 Al-Ma’ajan, or place of mixing, 304 The Myzab, or water-spout, 304 The mosaic pavement, 305 Tombs of Hagar and Ishmael, 305 Limits of the Ka’abah, 306 Al-Mataf, or place of circumambulation, 307 The four Makams, or stations for prayer, 307 Zemzem, or the holy well, 307 Al-Darah, or the ladder, 311 Stone on which Abraham stood, 311 The boast that the Ka’abah is never, night nor day, without devotees, 317, n. Legends of the Ten Houses of Allah, 319, et seq. Proofs of the Ka’abah’s sanctity, 325 The pilgrim’s first visit to it, 160 Legend of the Bab Benu Shaybah, 161 Ceremonies of the visit, 162, et seq. Visit of the pilgrim to, 206 Sketch of the interior of the building, 208 Ceremony of opening, in Ibn Jubayr’s time, 209, n. Expenses of visiting, 209 Reasons for all pilgrims not entering, 211 The first covering of the, 212 Changes in the style and make of the Kiswah, or curtain, 213 Inscriptions on the Kiswah, 215 Ka’aka’an, Jabal, the residence of the Benu Jurham, ii. 322 Kabirah, Al-, or lady of the house, ii. 160 Kindness of one to the pilgrim at Meccah, 216 Her affectionate farewell of the pilgrim, 259 Kadiriyah, an order of Darwayshes, i. 14 Kaf, “to go to Kaf,” explained, i. 17, n. Kafr al-Zajyat, i. 30 Kaid-Bey, the Mamluk Sultan of Egypt, i. 313, n. Rebuilds the Mosque of the Prophet, 324, n., 340 “Kayf,” explanation of, i. 9 Sonnini’s description of, 9, n. Kayf on the brink of the well at Al-Kuba, 412 Kairom and its potteries, i. 29 Kalaun, Sultan of Egypt, his improvements of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 366, n. Kalka-shandi, Al-, his testimony respecting the tomb of the Prophet, i. 323 Kamis, or cotton shirt, of Arab Shaykhs, i. 236 Kanat (spears), of the Badawin, ii. 106 Kanisat, or Christian Church, i. 365 Kansuh al-Ghori (Campson Gaury), King of Egypt, i. 202, n. Kara Gyuz, the amusement so called, i. 81 Karashi tribe of Arabs, i. 145 Kasr, Al-, the village of, i. 376, n. Kaswa, Al-, the she-camel of Mohammed the Prophet, i. 354, 360, 407 Kata, or sand-goose, the (Pterocles melanogaster), i. 154 Katibs, or writers of the tomb of the Prophet, i. 371 Katirah race, its mixture with the Himyaritic tribes, ii. 79 Kaukab al-Durri, or constellation of pearls suspended to the curtain round the Prophet’s tomb, i. 322 It apparent worthlessness, 322 Plundered by the Wahhabis, 369 Kawwas, or police officer, of Egypt, i. 20 [p.446] {|Kazi (Cadi), or chief judge of Al-Madinah, i. 373 Customs of the, ii. 87 Kerbela, battle of, ii. 40, n. Khadijah (one of the Prophet’s fifteen wives), her burial-place, ii. 38 Khadim, or guardian, of a Mosque, i. 411 Of the tombs at Al-Bakia, ii. 36 Khakani, the Persian poet, quoted, ii. 162 Khalawiyah tribes of Arabs, despised by the other clans, ii. 121 Khalid Bey, brother of Abdullah bin Sa’ud, his noble qualities, ii. 272 Khalid bin Walid, i. 425 Anecdote of him, ii. 230 Khaluk, a perfume so called, i. 335 Khandak (the moat) celebrated in Arabian history, i.399 Khasafat al-Sultan, of the Mosque at Al-Madinah, i.316, n. Khatan bin Saba, tribe of, i. 340 Khatbys, of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 375 Khatim, Bir al-, or Kuba well, i. 382, n. Khattabi, Al-, his opinions respecting Al-Madinah, i. 379, n. Khatyb, or Moslem preacher, ii. 313 Khaybar, in Arabia, Israelite settlements at, i. 346, 347 The colony entirely extinct, 347, n. Capture of, 361 Its distance from Al-Madinah, ii. 30 Khayf, Al-, i. 262 The Mosque of, at Muna, ii. 179 Khaznadar, the treasurer of the Prophet’s tomb, i. 371 Khazraj, its mixture with the Amalikah, i. 79 Arab tribe of, 347 Its wars with the Aus, 349 Converted by Mohammed, 352 Its plot against Mohammed, 358 Khitbah, or betrothal in Arabia, ii. 23 Khitmahs, or persuals of the Koran on behalf of the reigning Sultan, i. 316, n. Khubziyah, one of the orders of the Eunuchs of the Tomb, i. 371 Khudabakhsh, the Lahore shawl merchant, his profuse pilgrimages, ii. 210, n. Khurunfish, Al-, the manufactory at which the Kiswah is now worked, ii. 215 Khusraw, his work on divinity, “Al Durar,” i. 106 Khutaba, the Shaykh al-, of the Prophet’s mosque, i. 374 Khutbah, or Friday Sermon of the Prophet, i. 335 Khutbat al-Wakfah (“Sermon of the Standing” upon Arafat), ii. 197 Khuzayriyah, the date so called, i. 401 Khwajah Yusuf, his adventures, i. 122 Kiblatayn, the Mosque Al-, foundation of the, ii. 44 Kichhri, the Indian food so called, i. 182, n. ii. 63 Kilis, or Christian Church, of Abrahah of Sana’a, i. 321, n. Kiman, the relationship among the Badawin so called, ii. 313 Kiram al-Katibin (the generous writers), the personifications of man’s good and evil principles, i. 314, n. “Kirsh Hajar,” a sound dollar, so called by the Badawin, i. 370, n. Kisra, goblet and mirror of, i. 365, n. Kissing the hand, ii. 164, n. Kiswah, or “garment” or curtain round the Prophet’s tomb, i. 321, n. Description of a Kiswah, 322, n. Purloining the bits of, ii. 176 Notice of, 215 [p.447] Kiswah, or cover of a saint’s tomb, i. 429 Knight-errantry, Arab, ii. 95 Derivation of the word knight, 95, n. Kohl (antimony), a pigment for the eyes, i. 381, n. Used as a remedy in small-pox, 385 Koran, beautiful penmanship exhibited in some copies of, i. 103, n. Intonation of, taught in Schools, 106 Expositions of, 109 Mode of wearing the pocket Koran, 142 Precepts respecting the profession of belief in the saving faith, 167 Texts of, respecting Moses, Abraham, David, Solomon, and Mohammed, 212, n. The Hamail, or pocket Koran, of pilgrims, 239 The, suspended over the head of the Prophet’s tomb, 322, n. That of the Caliph Osman, 322, n. The Ya-Sin usually committed to memory, 330, n. A curious one kept in the library of the Mosque of the Prophet, 338. n. The Cufic MSS. written by Osman, the fourth Caliph, 368 Koraysh, tribe of Arabs, i. 145 Kotambul, island of, i. 376, n. Kuba, Mosque of, i. 279, n. Gardens of, 285 Receives the Prophet, 355 Date-groves of, 381 The Kuba well, 382, n. Cool shades of Kuba, 403 Description of the village, 406 Its inhabitants, 406 History of its Mosque, 407 Purity of the place and people of Al-Kuba, 410 The Mosque called Masjid al-Takwa, or Mosque of Piety, 411 The Mosque of Sittna Fatimah, 411 That of Arafat, 412 Date trees of, ii. 338 Kubar, or great men of the Mu’ezzini of Al-Madinah, i. 373 Kubbat al-Masra, at Ohod, i. 432 Kubbat al-Sanaya, or Dome of the Front Teeth, at Mount Ohod, i. 430 Kubbat al-Zayt (Dome of Oil), or Kubbat al-Shama (Dome of Candles), in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 337, n. Kulsum bin Hadmah, gives refuge to Mohammed at Kuba, i. 355 Kummayah, Ibn, the infidel, i. 430 Kuraysh, legend of their foundation of the eighth House of Allah, ii. 322 Kurayzah, a tribe of the Benu Israel, i. 349 Kurayzah, town of, founded by the Jews, i. 347 Kurayzah, the Masjid al-, ii. 46 Extermination of the Jewish tribe of Al-Kurayzah, 46 Kurbaj, or “Cat o’ Nine Tails,” of Egypt, i. 21 Kus Kusu, the food so called, i. 198 Kusah (scant-bearded man), ii. 14 Kusay bin Kilab, his foundation of the seventh House of Allah, ii. 322 Kuwwat Islam (strength of Islam), the building near Al-Madinah, so called, ii. 49

LA’AB al-Barut (gunpowder play) of the Arabs, ii. 86 Labid, the poet, his description of the rainy seasons of Al-Hijaz, i. 383 His suspended poem, ii. 98 Quoted, 147 Labour, price of, at Al-Madinah, ii. 9 Lance, the Arab. See Javelin Land-cess (Miri), not paid by the Madani, ii. 6 Lane, Mr., reference to, i. 12, n. His discovery of the frauds of the Cairo magician, i. 388, n. Language; difference between the Japhetic and Semitic tongues, ii. 79, n. Resemblance between Pahlavi and Hebrew, 79, n. Traditions [p.448] respecting the origin of Arabic, i. 344 See Arabic language Lapidation (Rajm), punishment for adultery, ii. 19 Diabolical practice of, in Arabia, 180 Antiquity of the custom in token of hate, 282, n. Lapidation (Rami), ceremony of, ii. 203 The second day’s ceremony, 222 Larking, Mr. John, i. 7 Latakia tobacco, i. 65, n. Latrinæ, not allowed in Al-Madinah, i. 65, n. Laun, the date so called, i. 401 Law-suit, a Mohammedan, description of, i. 46 Laymun, Wady, or Al-Mazik, ii. 147 Its celebrity, 147 Legends of the House of Allah, ii. 319, et seq. Lentils (Adas), the diet during an attack of small-pox, i. 385 Their cheapness on the banks of the Nile, 385 Revalenta Arabica, 385, n. Leprosy, the kind called Al-Baras only known in Al-Hijaz, i. 389 Considered incurable, 389 Levick, Henry, Esq., late Vice-Consul at Suez, i. 170 His remarks respecting Suez, 170, et seq. Lex scripta, strictness of everywhere in inverse ratio to that of custom, ii. 87, n. Libraries, decay of, in Cairo, i. 101, n. The library of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 338 The only object of curiosity in it, 338, n. Lift (turnips), i. 404 Light-extinguishers, sect of, ii. 235, n. Lisam, of Constantinople, i. 229, n. The, of the Arab Shaykhs, 235 Literature, periodical, state of, in Egypt, i. 109, n. Litholatry, ii. 300, n. Litter (Shugduf), description of, as used in Al-Hijaz, i. 233, n. The mahmil, or Syrian litter, 234, n. Locusts eaten as food by the Badawin, ii. 117 Method of cooking them, 117 Logic, study of, little valued in Egypt, i. 107, n. Works on logic, 107, n. Lots, pillar of, in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 325, n. “Lotus eaters,” i. 405 Lubabah, Abu, column of, in the Rauzah, i. 325, n., 326, n., 336 Story of him, 336 Lukman the Elder (of the tribe of Ad), i. 348 Lying among Orientals, ii. 211

MA’ABIDAH, AL-, or northern suburb of Meccah, ii. 153 Origin of the name, 153, n. Ma’ajan, Al-, or place of mixing, at the Ka’abah, ii. 304 Its origin, 304, n. Ma’amun, Al-, makes additions to the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 367 Mabrak al-Nakah (place of kneeling of the she-dromedary), at Al-Kuba, i. 410 Madinah, Al-, the first Mosque erected at, i. 91 Its smallness an annoyance to the people of, 94, n. Men of, respected by Badawin robbers, 96, n. First view of the city of, 279 Place [p.449] whence the city is first seen by the pilgrim, 279, n. Poetical explanations and enthusiasm of the pilgrims, 279, 280 Distance of, from the Red Sea to, 281 View of, from the suburbs, at sunrise, 285 The scenery of the neighbourhood, 285 The Ambari gate, 285-287 The Takiyah erected by Mohammed Ali, 285 Fortress of, 286 Its suburb “Al-Manakhah,” 286 “The trees of Al-Madinah,” 286 The Bab al-Misri, or Egyptian gate, 288 Good quality of the coffee of Al-Madinah, 290, n. Coolness of the nights at Al-Madinah, 300 Pugnacity of the horses and dogs of, 301 Account of a visit to the Prophet’s tomb at, 304, 342 Tents of the people of Al-Madinah compared with those of the Meccans, 306 Its Mosque compared with that of Meccah, 307 Ludicrous views of Al-Madinah as printed in our popular works, 341, n. Moslem account of the settlement of Al-Madinah, 343 Destruction of the Jewish power in Al-Madinah, 349 Al-Madinah ever favourable to Mohammed, 351 The Prophet escorted to the city, 354 Joy on his arrival, 356 Tomb of the Prophet, 359 Various fortunes of the city, 359 Present state of the revenue of the holy shrines of, 359 The Prophet builds his Mosque at Al-Madinah, 360 The second Mosque erected by the Caliph Osman, 363 The Masjid erected with magnificence by Al-Walid the Caliph, 364 The second Masjid erected by Al-Mahdi, the Caliph, 367 Additions of Al-Ma’amun, 367 Erection of the fifth and sixth Mosques, 368 Besieged and sacked by the Wahhabis, 369, 370 Almost all the people of, act as Muzawwirs, 374 Epithets of Al-Madinah, 377, n. Its geographical position in Arabia, 379 All Muharramat, or sins, forbidden within it, 379, n. Cause of its prosperity, 380 Manner of providing water at, 381 Its climate, 382, 383 Diseases of, 384, et seq. The three divisions of the city, 391 The gates of the town, 391 The bazar, 391 The walls, 392 The streets, 392 The Wakalahs, 392 The houses, 392 Population, 393, 393, n. The fortress of, 394 The suburbs of Al-Madinah, 395 The Khamsah Masajid, 395 The suburbs to the south of the city, 396 Inhabitants of the suburbs, 397 Celebrity of the dates of Al-Madinah, 400 The weights of Al-Madinah, 402, n. Cereals, vegetables, &c., of the Madinah plain, 404 The fruits of, 404 Arrival of the Damascus Caravan, 416 The “Affair of the Ridge,” 421 Account of the people of Al-Madinah, ii. 1 The present ruling race at Al-Madinah, 5 Privileges of the citizens, 6 Trade and commerce of, 8 Price of labour at, 9 Pride and indolence of the Madani, 9 Dearness of provisions at, 10 Tariff of 1853, 10 The households of the Madani, 12 Their personal appearance, 13 Scarcity of animals at Al-Madinah, 16 The manners of the Madani, 17 Their character, 19 Their marriages and funerals, 20-24 Abundance of books at, 24 The two Madrasah or colleges, 24 The Olema of Al-Madinah, 25 Learning of the Madani not varied, 25 Their language, 26 Their apprehensions at the appearance of a comet, 28 Their cemetery of Al-Bakia, 31 The Mosques in the neighbourhood of the city, 44-48 Vertomannus’ description of the city, 338 The four roads leading from Al-Madinah to Meccah, 58 [p.450] Madrasah (or colleges), the two of Al-Madinah, ii. 24 “M’adri,” village of, i. 245, n. Madshuniyah, Al-, the garden of, near Al-Madinah, i. 415 Ma al-Sama, “the water, or the splendour, of heaven,” a matronymic of Amr bin Amin, i. 348 Mafish, meaning of the term, i. 8, n. Maghrabi pilgrims, i. 156, 187 Their treachery, 156 Observations on the word and on words derived from it, 187, n. Habits and manners of the Maghrabis, 190, 191 Their bad character, 191 Frays with them on board, 191, 192 Their dislike to tobacco, 194, n. Their repentance of their misdeeds, 198 Their guttural dialect, 198, n. Their efforts to get the ship off the sand, 201 Return of their surliness, 203 Their desire to do a little fighting for the faith, 206 Effect of a strange place on them, 252, n. Mahamid, a sub-family of the Benu-Harb, i. 256 Mahar, Marsa (Maliar anchorage), i. 220 Mahattah Ghurab (Station of Ravens), halt at, ii. 66 Mahdi, Al-, the Caliph, erects the fourth Mosque of Al-Madinah, i. 367 His additions to the House of Allah, ii. 324 His enlargement of the Mosque at Meccah, 296 Mahjar, or stony ground, ii. 70 Mahmil, the Sultan’s, turned back by robbers in Arabia, i. 257 Its appearance in the Caravan, ii. 65 Place of the Egyptian and Damascus Mahmils during the sermon on Arafat, 194 Mahmud, the late Sultan, his dream, i. 12 Mahmudiyah Canal, i. 29 Barrenness of its shores, i. 29 Mahmudiyah College, at Al-Madinah, ii. 24 Mahr, or sum settled upon the bride before marriage, ii. 23 Average amount of such sums, 23, n. Mahrah, the indigens of, ii. 77 Their low development, 77 Majarr al-Kabsh (Dragging-place of the Ram), notice of, ii. 219 Majidi Riwak, or arcade of the Sultan Abd al-Majid at Al-Madinah, i. 308 Makam Ibrahim, at Meccah, ii. 311 Makam Jibrail (place of Gabriel), at the Ka’abah, ii. 304, n. Makan al-Ayat (place of signs), at the Mosque of Kuba, i. 410 Makams, the four, or stations for prayer, at the Ka’abah, ii. 313 Maksurah, or railing round a cenotaph, i. 314, n. Malabar, Suez trade in the pepper of, i. 179 Malaikah, or the Angels, at Al-Madinah, i. 326 Prayer at the, i. 326 Malakayn, Al- (the two Angels), personifications of the good and evil principles of man’s nature, i. 314, n. Malbus (religious frenzy), a case of, at Meccah, ii. 175 Malik, the Imam, i. 305, n. His followers, 306, 311, n. Few of them in his own city, 373, n. His strictness respecting Al-Madinah, 379, n. School of, reference to, 373, n. Mufti of, at Al-Madinah, 373 Its station for prayer at the Ka’abah, ii. 308 Malik ibn Anas, Imam, his tomb, ii. 38 Malta, i. 7 The Maltese regarded with contempt by Egyptians, 111 [p.451] Mambar, or pulpit of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 310 Origin of, 362 Various forms of, 362, n. The Mosque of Meccah, ii. 313 Manakhah, Al-, the suburb of Al-Madinah, i. 286 The Harat or Quarter, Al-Ambariyah, 288 Omitted in our popular representations of the city, 341 Population of, 393 Mandal, its celebrity in Europe owing to Mr. Lane, i. 12, n., ii. 175 Mandeville, Sir John, his opinion of the Badawin, i. 147 His remarks on the word Saracen, 187, n. Reference to, 286, n. Manners, Oriental, compared with European, i. 6 Manners of Eastern officials, 27 Mansur, the camel-man, i. 262 Bullied by Mohammed Al-Basyuni, i. 277 Marble, white (Rukham), of Meccah, ii. 295, n. March, distance of a, ii. 63, n. The Sariyah on night march, 67 Mareb, dyke of, i. 348 Accounts of its bursting, 348, n. The ruins visited by a late traveller, 348 n. Mariyah, the Coptic girl of Mohammed, house of, i. 362, n. The infant son Ibrahim, ii. 37 Jealousy of Ayishah of her, 47, n. Maryam, Al-Sitt (the Lady Mary), i. 243, 264, 271. Affection of her younger son, 287 Markets of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Marriage, an Armenian, i. 123 An Arab, ii. 23 The Kitbah, or betrothal, 23 The Mahr, or sum settled upon the bride, 23 The marriage ceremony, 23 Martineau, Miss, her strictures on the harim, ii. 91 Martyrs, in Moslem law, not supposed to be dead, i. 339, n. Martyrs of Mount Ohod, i. 328 Of Al-Bakia, 328, n. Visitation to the, of Mount Ohod, 419 Marwah, meaning of the word, ii. 244, n. Ceremonies at, 245, 246 Marwan, Al-, governor of Al-Madinah, i. 381 Removes Osman’s grave-stones, ii. 32 Mas’hab, or stick for guiding camels, i. 237 Mas’ad, the Benu (a Jewish tribe), in Arabia, i. 347, n. Masajid, Khamsah, of the suburb of Al-Madinah, i. 395 Mashali, the Madani children’s bodies marked with, ii. 13 Mashals (lights carried on poles), ii. 132, 382 The Pasha’s mashals 132, n. Mashar al-Harim (place dedicated to Religious Ceremonies), at Muna ii. 181 Mashrabah Umm Ibrahim, the Masjid, ii. 46 Mashrabiyah, or famous carved latticed window of Cairo, i. 35, 99, n. Masjid, a place of prayer, i. 97, n. Masjid al-Jum’ah, i. 356 Maskat, i. 3 Importation of slaves into, ii. 13, n. The ancient Caravan from Maskat to Al-Madinah, 29, n. Masruh tribe of Arabs, ii. 120 Its subdivision, ii. 120 Mastabah, of the shops in Cairo, i. 68 Mastabah, or stone bench before the Mosque of Al Kuba, i. 409 Mastich-smoke, the perfume, i. 298 Arab prejudice against the fumes of gum, i. 298, n. [p.452] Mas’ud, of the Rahlah, engaged for the journey to Meccah, ii. 52, 59, 67, 70 Heavy charges for watering his camels, 129 His dislike of the Shamar, 134 His quarrel with an old Arnaut, 136 His skill in steering. the Desert-craft, 144 His disgust at the dirt of the Meccans, ii. 190 Maula Ali, leader of the Maghrabis, i. 191 Maulid al-Nabi, or the Prophet’s birthplace, ii. 254 Maulid Hamzah, or birthplace of Hamzah, at Meccah, ii. 254 Maundrell, his error respecting the curtain round the Prophet’s tomb, i. 321, n. Mauza al-Khatt (place of writing) at Meccah, ii. 250 Mawali, or clients of the Arabs, ii. 349 Mayda, Al-, or the Table, in the Mosque at Al-Madinah, i. 316, n. Maysunah, the Badawi wife of the Caliph Mu’awiyah, ii. 190 The beautiful song of, 190 Her son Yazid, 191, n. Mazdak, the Persian communist, ii. 3, n. Mazghal (or matras), long loopholes in the walls of Al-Madinah, i. 392 Mazik, Al-. (See Laymun, Wady) Measures of length, Arab, ii. 63 Meccah, remnants of heathenry in, i. 4 Visit of M. Bertolucci to, 5, n. And of Dr. George Wallin, 5, n. “Tawaf,” or circumambulation of the House of Allah at, 305 Its Mosque compared with that of Al-Madinah, 306, 359, n. Pride of the Meccans of their temple, 359, n. A model to the world of Al-Islam, 360 Population of, 393, n. Vertomannus’ description of the city, ii. 345 Pitts’s account of, 365, et seq. Finati’s adventures at, 393 The four roads leading from Al-Madinah to Meccah, 58 The Sharif of Meccah, Abd al-Muttalib bin Ghalib, i. 259, ii. 150 The Saniyat Kuda’a, near, 152 The old gates of the city, 152, n. The Sharif’s palace at, 152 The haunted house of the Sharif bin Aun at, 153 The Jana’at al-Ma’ala, or cemetery of Meccah, 153 The Afghan and Syrian quarters, 153 Extracts from Burckhardt’s description of the Bayt Ullah, or Ka’abah, 294, et seq. The gates of the Mosque, 316 Expenses during “season” at Meccah, 317 Description of a house at Meccah, 171 Resemblance of the city to Bath or Florence, 173 Admirable linguistic acquirements of the Meccans, 223 Life at Meccah, 227 The city modern, 229 Character of the Meccans, 232 Immorality of, 233 Appearance of the Meccans, 233 Their “beauty-masks,” 233 Their pride and coarseness, 235 Good points in their character, 237 Dangers of visiting Meccah, 239 Places of pious visitation at Meccah, 247 Medicine, Oriental practice of, i. 12, 13 The chronothermal practice, 13, n. Experiences respecting the medicine-chest, 26 Asiatic and European doctors contrasted, 50 A medical man’s visit in the East, 52 Amount of a doctor’s fee, 53 Asiatic medical treatment, 54 A prescription, 55 Method of securing prescriptions against alteration, 57 Medical practitioners in Cairo, 57 Inefficiency of European treatment in the East, 57 Superstitious influences of climate, 58 Description of a druggist’s shop, 67, 68 [p.453] Meerschaum pipe, i. 144, n. Melancholia, frequent among the Arabs, i. 299, n. Probable cause of it, 299, n. Mihrab al-Nabawi, or place of prayer, i. 310 Origin of, 361, n., 364, n. The Mihrab Sulamanyi of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 310 Milk, laban, both in Arabic and Hebrew, i. 246 Food made by Easterns from milk, 246 Milkseller, an opprobrious and disgraceful term, 246 The milk-balls of the Badawin, ii. 117 The Kurut of Sind and the Kashk of Persia, 117, n. Method of making, 117, n. Mimosa, compared by poetic Arabs to the false friend, i. 276 Minarets, the five, of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 333 Invention of, 334, n. Origin of the minaret, 361, n., 364 The erection of the four, of the Mosque of the Prophet, 366, ii. 318, n. Dangers of looking out from a minaret window, 318, n. Mir of Shiraz, the calligrapher, i. 104, n. Mirba’at al-Bayr, “place of the beast of burden,” in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 336 Mirbad, or place where dates are dried, i. 360 Mirage, ii. 72 Beasts never deceived by, 72 Mirayat (magic mirrors), used for the cure of bilious complaints, i. 387 Antiquity of the Invention, 387, n. The magic mirrors of various countries, 387, n. The Cairo magician, 388, n. Mr. Lane’s discovery, 388, n. Sir Gardner Wilkinson’s remarks respecting, 388, n. Miri, or land-cess, not paid by the Madani, ii. 6 Mirror, the Magic, i. 12 See Mirayat Mirza, meaning of, i. 14, n. Mirza Husayn, “Consul-General” at Cairo, i. 86 Misri, Bab al-, or Egyptian gate, of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Misri pomegranates of Al-Madinah, i. 405 Misriyah, the opprobrious term, i. 175 Miyan, or “Sir,” a name applied to Indian Moslems, i. 232 Miyan Khudabakhsh Namdar, the shawl merchant, i. 35 Moat, battle of the, ii. 44, n., 47 Mohammed Abu See Mohammed. His mandate for the destruction of the diseased population of Al-Yaman, i. 390 Mohammed Ali Pasha, his improvements in the Greek quarter of Cairo, i. 81, n. His mosque, 84, 99 His establishment of a newspaper in Egypt, 109, n. His wise regulations for insuring the safety of travelling across the Desert, 136 His expedition to Al-Hijaz, 177 His strong-handed despotism capable of purging Al-Hijaz of its pests, 258 The “Takiyah” erected by him at Al-Madinah, i. 285 Purchases all the Wakf in Egypt, 359, n. His introduction of professed poisoners from Europe, ii. 86, n. His defeat of the Wahhabis at the battle of Bissel, 89, n. Mohammed bin Aun, (quondam prince of Meccah), his palaces, ii. 252, 266 His imprisonment at Constantinople, 253 His history, 253, n. Mohammed at-Attar, the druggist, i. 67 Description of his shop, 67 His manners, 69 His sayings and sarcastic remarks, 71-73 Mohammed al-Bakir, the Imam, tomb of, ii. 40, n. [p.454] Mohammed Al-Basyuni, account of, i. 123 Starts for Suez, 124 Meets the author in the Desert near Suez, 151 His boundless joy, 151 His treatment of the Badawin, 152 His usefulness at Suez, 159 His savoir faire, 160 His joke, 176 Promises to conduct the devotions of the Maghrabis at Meccah, 199 Change in his conduct at Yambu’, 232 His quarrel with the Badawin, 256 And with the Madinites, 271 Bears the brunt of the ill-feeling of the pilgrims, 276 Bullies the camel-men, 277 Downcast and ashamed of himself in his rags at Al-Madinah, 290 Made smart, 294 Confounded by a Persian lady, 303 Distributes the pilgrim’s alms in the Mosque at Al-Madinah, 312 Takes a pride in being profuse, 331 Accompanies the pilgrim to the Mosque of Kuba, 398 His economy at Al-Madinah, 411 His indecorous conduct, 431 His fondness for clarified butter, ii. 12, 67 His adventures in search of water on the march to Meccah, 66 Mounts a camel, 130 But returns tired and hungry, 135 His house at Meccah, 153 His welcome home, 159 Becomes the host of the pilgrim, 159 His introduction of hard words into his prayers, 168 His resolution to be grand, 184 His accident at the Great Devil, 204 Conducts the pilgrim round the Ka’abah, 206 His sneers at his mother, 216 His taunts of Shaykh Nur, 218 Receives a beating at Jeddah, 270 Departs from the pilgrim with coolness, 271 Mohammed Al-Busiri, the Wali of Alexandria, tomb of, i. 12 Mohammed Ibn Abdillah Al-Sannusi, his extensive collection of books, ii. 24 Celebrated as an Alim, or sage, 24, n. His peculiar dogma, 25 Kindness of Abbas Pasha to him, 25, n. His followers and disciples, 25, n. Mohammed Jamal al-Layl, his extensive collection of books, ii. 24 Mohammed Khalifah, keeper of the Mosque of Hamzah, i. 427 Mohammed Kuba, founder of the first Mosque in Al-Islam, i. 91 Mohammed of Abusir, the poet, works of, i. 107, n. Mohammed Shafi’a, his swindlings, i. 46 His lawsuit, 46 Mohammed Shiklibha, i. 165 Mohammed the Prophet, his traditionary works studied in Egypt, i. 106 His cloak, 146 The moon and Al-Burak subjected to, 212 The “Badr,” the scene of his principal military exploits, 260, 274, n. Gives the Shuhada the name of the “Sejasaj,” and prophecies its future honours, 274, n. His attack of Abu Sufiyan, and the Infidels, 275, n. Distant view of his tomb at Al-Madinah, 286 His recommendation of the Kaylulah, or mid-day siesta, 299 Account of a visit to his Mosque at Al-Madinah, 304 A Hadis, or traditional saying of, 305 His tomb, how regarded by the orthodox followers of Al-Malik and the Wahhabis, 306 Al-Rauzah, or the Prophet’s garden, 308 His pulpit at Al-Madinah, 310 Efficacy ascribed to the act of blessing the Prophet, 313 Enjoins his followers to visit graveyards, 314, n. The Shubak al-Nabi, or Prophet’s window, 316 The Prophet, how regarded as an intercessor, 318 His prayers for the conversion of Omar, 320 The Kiswah round his tomb, 321, n. The exact place of the tomb, 322 The Kaukab al-Durri, suspended to the Kiswah, 322 The tomb and coffin, 323 Position of the body, 324 Story of the suspended coffin, 325, n. [p.455] Reasons for doubting that his remains are deposited in the Mosque at Al-Madinah, 339 His ancestors preserved from the Yamanian deluge, 348 Doubts respecting his Ishmaelitic descent, 350, n ii. 76, n. Finds favour at Al-Madinah, i. 351 Tombs of his father and mother, 351, n. Meets his new converts on the steep near Muna, 352 Receives the inspired tidings that Al-Madinah was his predestined asylum, 354 Escorted to Al-Madinah, 354 His she-camel, Al-Kaswa, 354, 355 His halt near the site of the present Masjid al-Juma, 356 Joy on his arrival at Al-Madinah, 356 His stay at the house of Abu Ayyub, 357 Builds dwellings for his family, 357 The conspiracy of the “Hypocrites,” 358 The prophet builds the Mosque, 360 Abode of his wives, family, and principal friends, 363 Place of his death and burial, 363 Attempt to steal his body, 367 His Mosque in the suburb of Al-Manakhah at Al-Madinah, 395 Foundation of the Mosque of Al-Kuba, 407 His “Kayf” on the brink of the well at Al-Kuba, 412 His miraculous authority over animals, vegetables, &c., 422 His battle with Abu Sufiyan on Mount Ohod, 423, 425 Anecdote of the origin of his Benediction of Al-Bakia, ii. 34, n. Tombs of his wives, 38 And of his daughters, 38 Origin of his surname of Al-Amin, the Honest; 323 His tradition concerning the fall of his birth-place, 231 The Prophet’s old house (Bayt al-Nabi) at Meccah, 251 The birth-place of the Prophet, 254 Momiya (mummy), medicinal qualities attributed to, ii. 344 Monday, an auspicious day to Al-Islam, i. 355 Money, the proper method of carrying in the East, i. 25, 25, n. Value of the Turkish paper money in Al-Hijaz, 393, n. Value of the piastre, the Turkish parah, the Egyptian faddah, and the Hijazi diwani, ii. 11, n. Of Al-Hijaz, 111, n. The Sarraf, or money-changer, 235 Monteith, General, i. 1 Moon, the crescent, ii. 71 Moonlight, evil effects of the Arab belief in, i. 154 Moor, derivation of the name, i. 187 Moplah race, foundation of, i. 344, n. Moresby’s Survey, i. 215, n. Mosaic pavement of the Ka’abah, ii. 305 Moses’ Wells (Uyun Musa), at Suez, i. 158, n., 195 Visit to the, ii. 203 Hot baths of, 203 His “great tallness,” according to Moslem legends, i. 204 “Moses’ Stones,” the bitumen so called, 204, n. His pilgrimage to Meccah, 345 Inters his brother Aaron on Mount Ohod, 346 His tomb, ii. 275, n. “Moskow,” the common name of the Russians in Egypt and in Al-Hijaz, i. 292 Mosque, the origin of, i. 90 Form and plan of, 91, 92 Erection of the first Mosque in Al-Islam, 91 First appearance of the cupola and niche, 92 Varied forms of places of worship, 92 Byzantine combined with Arabesque, 93 Use of colours, 94 Statuary and pictures forbidden in Mosques, 94 The Meccan Mosque a model to the world of Al-Islam, 95 Immense number of Mosques at Cairo, 96 Europeans not excluded from [p.456] Mosques, 96 The Jami Taylun, 96 The Mosque of the Sultan Al-Hakim, 97 The Azhar and Hasanayn Mosques, 97 That of Sultan Hasan, 98 Of Kaid Bey and the other Mamluk Kings, 98 The modern Mosques, 98 That of Sittna Zaynab, 98 Mohammed Ali’s “Folly,” 98 The Al-Azhar Mosque, 100 Mode of entering the sacred building, 100 Details of the Al-Azhar, 100 Scene in it, 101 The Riwaks, 101 The collegiate Mosque of Cairo, 102 Mosque of Al-Shafe’i, 106, n. The Mosques of Suez, 173 The Mosques of Zu’l Halifah, i. 279 Account of a visit to the Prophet’s, 304, 342 The Masjid al-Nabawi, one of the two sanctuaries, 304 The Masjid al-Harim at Meccah, 305 The Masjid al-Aksa at Jerusalem, 305 How to visit the Prophet’s, 305 Ziyarat, or visitation, 305 Points to be avoided in visiting the Prophet’s, 305 Comparison between the Al-Madinah and Meccah Mosques, 306 Description of the Masjid al-Nabi, 307 Burnt by lightning and rebuilt by Kaid Bey, 324, n. The gates of the Mosque, 322, 323 The five minarets of the Mosque, 333 The four porches of the Mosque, 334 The celebrated pillars, 335 The garden of our Lady Fatimah in the hypæthral court, 337 Gardens not uncommon in Mosques, 337 The pilgrim makes a ground-plan of the Prophet’s Mosque, 341, n. The Prophet’s Mosque built, 360 The second Masjid erected by Osman, 363 The Masjid erected with magnificence by the Caliph al-Walid, 365 Various improvements in the, 366 Burnt by fire and by lightning, 366 The fourth Mosque of Al-Madinah erected by the Caliph Al-Mahdi, 367 Additions of Al-Ma’amun, 367 Erection of the fifth and sixth Mosques, 367, 368 The treasures of the tomb stolen by the Wahhabis, 369 The “sacred vessels” repurchased from the Wahhabis, 370 The various officers of the Mosque, 371 The executive and menial establishment of the Prophet’s Mosque, 373 Revenue of the Prophet’s Mosque, 374 Pensioners of the, 375 Description of the Prophet’s Mosque at Al-Manakhah, 395 History of the Mosque of Al-Kuba, 407 The Mosque of Sittna Fatimah at Al-Kuba, 411 The Masjid Arafat at Al-Kuba, 412 Hamzah’s Mosque, 426 The Mosques in the neighbourhood of Al-Madinah, ii. 44-49 The former Masjid al-Ijabah at Meccah, 153 Description of the Mosque at Meccah, 294, et seq. The mosque Al-Khayf at Muna, 180 The Mosque Muzdalifah, 181 The Masjid al-Jinn, 250 Mother-of-pearl, brought from the Red Sea, i. 179 Mothers of the Moslems, (the Prophet’s wives), i. 328, n. “Mountains of Paradise,” i. 222 Mourning forbidden to Moslems, ii. 16 Mourning dress of the women, ii. 16 MSS. “bequeathed to God Almighty,” i. 101, n. Mu’awiyah, Al-, Caliph, i. 258, n. His Badawi wife Maysunah, ii. 190 His son Yazid, 191, n. Muballighs, or clerks of the Mosque, i. 311, n. Mubariz, or single combatant of Arab chivalrous times, i. 302 [p.457] Mudarrisin, or professors, of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 375 Mudir, or chief treasurer, of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 337 Mu’ezzin, i. 78, 84 The Prophet’s, 334 The Ruasa, or chief of the, 334 Mu’ezzins, of Al-Madinah, 373 Reasons for preferring blind men for Mu’ezzins, ii. 318, n. Muftis, the three, of Al-Madinah, i. 373 Muhafiz, or Egyptian governor, i. 19 Muhajirin, or Fugitives, from Meccah, i. 360 Muhallabah, the dish so called, i. 79 Muharramat, or sins, forbidden within the sanctuary of the Prophet, i. 379, n. Mujawirin, or settlers in Al-Madinah, i. 375 Mujrim (the Sinful), the pilgrim’s friendship with him, ii. 29 Mujtaba, Al- (the Accepted), a title of the Prophet, ii. 37, n. Mukabbariyah, of the Mosque, i. 311 Mukuddas, Bayt al- (Jerusalem), prostrations at, i. 408 Mukarinah, Al- (the uniting), the pilgrimage so called, ii. 280 Mukhallak, Al-, the pillar in the Mosque of the Prophet so called, i. 335 Mukattum, Jabal, i. 58 Mules, despised by the Badawin, i. 304 Not to be found at Al-Madinah, ii. 17 Multazem, Al-, the place of prayer in the Ka’abah so called, ii. 299, n. Mulukhiyah (Corchoris olitorus), a mucilaginous spinach, i. 404 Muna, place of meeting of the new converts with the Prophet, i. 353 Sanctity of, ii. 179, 180 Derivation of the name, 180, n. The pebbles thrown at the Devil at, 180, n The Mosque Al-Khayf, 180 Sacrifices at, 217, 218 A storm at, 218 Coffee-houses of, 222 Its pestilential air, 224 Munafikun, or “Hypocrites,” conspiracy of the, i. 358 Munar Bab al-Salam, of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 332 Munar Bab al-Rahmah, 333 The Sulaymaniyah Munar, 333 Munar Raisiyah, 334 Murad Bey, the Mamluk, i. 98 Murad Khan, the Sultan, his improvements in the building of the House of Allah, ii. 324 Murchison, Sir Roderick, i. 1 Murshid, meaning of the term, i. 14 Specimen of a murshid’s diploma, ii. 327 Musab bin Umayr, missionary from the Prophet to Al-Madinah, i. 352 Musafahah (shaking hands), Arab fashion of, ii. 52 Musahhal, village of, i. 245 Musalla al-Id, the Mosque of Ali at Al-Madinah, i. 395 Musalla al-Nabi (Prophet’s place of prayer), in the Mosque of Al-Madinah, i. 395, 409 Musannam, or raised graves, of the Badawin, i. 430 Music and musical instruments, of the Badawin, i. 145, ii. 107 Of Southern Arabia, remarks on, and on the music of the East, 223, n. Musket-balls, Albanian method of rifling, i. 267, n. Muslim bin Akbah al-Marai, his defeat of the Madani, i. 421, n. Mustachios, clipped short by the Shafe’i school, ii. 53 [p.458] Mustafa, Al- (the Chosen), a title of the Prophet, ii. 37, n. Musattah, or level graves, of the Badawin, i. 430 Mustarah, or resting-place, on Mount Ohod, i. 424 Mustasim, Al-, last Caliph of Baghdad, his assistance in completing the fifth Mosque of the Prophet, i. 368 Mustaslim, or chief of the writers of the tomb of the Prophet, i. 371 Mustazi b’illah, Al-, the Caliph, i. 366, n. Mutamid, Al-, the Caliph, his additions to the House of Allah, ii. 324 Mutanabbi, Al-, the poet, i. 107, n. His chivalry, ii. 96 Admiration of the Arabs for his works, 97 Mu’tasim, Al-, the Caliph, his chivalry, ii. 96 Mutazid, Al-, the Caliph, his additions to the House of Allah, ii. 324 Muttaka, Al-, legend of the stone at Meccah so called, ii. 254 Muwajihat al-Sharifah, or “Holy Fronting,” in the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 309 Muzaykayh, Al-, a surname of Amir bin Amin, i. 348 Myzab (water-spout), of the Ka’abah, ii. 304 Generally called Myzab al-Rahmah, 304, n. Muzaynah tribe of Arabs, i. 145 Its antiquity and nobility, 145 Its purely Arab blood, 146 Muzdalifah (the approacher), the Mosque so called, ii. 181 “Muzzawir,” or conductor of the pilgrim to the Prophet’s tomb, i. 305 Almost all the Madinites act as, 374 Importance of, 374

NABAWI, the Mihrab al-, in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 335 Nabi, Bir al-, at Kuba, i. 414, n. Nabi, Masjid al-, description of, i. 307 Nabi, the Masjid al-, or the Prophet’s Mosque at Al-Madinah, built by Mohammed, i. 360 Nabi, the Shubak al-, or Prophet’s window, i. 316 Nabi Bir al-, or the Prophet’s well, i. 338 Superstitions respecting, 338 Nafi Maula, Al- (Imam Nafi al-Kari), son of Omar, tomb of, ii. 38 Nafil, the Hijazi, his pollution of the Kilis, or Christian Church, i. 321, n. Nafr, Al- (the Flight), from Muna to Meccah, ii. 206 Nahl, Al-, visit to, i. 11 Nahw (syntax), study of, in schools, i. 104 Naib al-Harim, or vice-intendant of the Mosque of Meccah, ii. 319 Najjar, Benu, i. 357 Meaning of the name, 357, n. Nakb, the valley of, i. 279, n. “Nakh, to,” the camels, i. 244 Nakhawilah, the race of heretics so called, at Al-Madinah; ii. 1 Their principles, 2 Nakhil (or palm plantations), of Al-Madinah, i. 399 “Nakhwali,” i. 403 Nakib, or assistant Mustaslim of the tomb of the Prophet, i. 372 Nakil, or apostles, of the Prophet, i. 353. n. Namrud (Nimrod), dispersion under him, i. 343 Nassar, Shaykh, the Badawi of Tur, i, 141, et seq. His finesse, 153 Nasur, or ulcer of Al-Hijaz. See Ulcer Natak al-Nabi, at Meccah, origin of, ii. 253 [p.459] Nazir, a tribe of the Benu Israel, i. 349 Nebek, the fruit of a palm-tree so called, i. 337 Nebek, or jujube tree, of Al-Madinah, i. 404 Supposed to have been the thorn which crowned our Saviour’s head, 405, n. Nebuchadnezzar (Bukht al-Nasr), invasion of, i. 347 Nijd, i. 266, n. Its choice horses and camels, 266, n. The greatest breeding country in Arabia, 266, n. View of the ground of, 285 Excellence of the dates of, 383 The Nijdi tribes of Badawin, their temperament, ii. 78 Newspaper, establishment of a, in Egypt, i. 109, n. Niebuhr, his remarks on the Sinaitic Arabs referred to, i. 147 His description of the Oriental sandal, 236 Reference to, 265, n., 385, n. His incorrect hearsay description of the Prophet’s tomb, 323, n. Night journey in Arabia, description of, ii. 132 Nile, steamboat of the, i. 29 Description of, 29 The Barrage bridge, 30 Objects seen on the banks of the, 31 Compared with Sind, 31 Nimrah, Masjid, or Mosque without the minaret, ii. 181 Nisa, the Bab al-, or women’s gate, at Al-Madinah, i. 308 Niyat, in Moslem devotions, i. 76 In the visitation of the Mosque of Al-Kuba, 409 Repeated when approaching Meccah, ii. 139 Niyat, or the running, at the Little Pilgrimage, ii. 244 Nizam, or Turkish infantry, i. 226 Noachians, in Arabia, ii. 77 Their many local varieties, 78, n. Noah, account of Ibn Abbas respecting the settlement of his family, i. 343 Nolan, Captain, reference to his work on Cavalry, i. 263 Nullah, the Indian, identical with the Fiumara of Arabia, i. 3, 4 Nur al-Din, al-Malik al-Adil, i. 367 Nur al-Din Shahid Mahmud bin Zangi, the Sultan, i. 367 Nur, Jabal, anciently Hira, ii. 398, n. Its celebrity, ii. 179 Nur, Shaykh, sensation caused by his appearance in the streets of Cairo, i. 126 His defection, 159 His return, 161 His fishing tackle, 198 His dirty appearance at Al-Madinah, 290 His improved aspect, 294 Enraptured with Al-Madinah, ii. 5 His preparations for leaving Al-Madinah, 51 His ride in the shugduf of Ali bin Ya Sin, ii. 126 Accompanies the pilgrim to the Ka’abah, 172 Becomes now Haji Nur, 260 His quarrel with Mohammed al-Basyuni, 271

OASES, the, i. 149 Derivation of the word, 149, n. Vulgar idea of an oasis, 150, n. Love of the Badawin for them, 150, n. Officials, Asiatic, how to treat, i. 20 Habits and manners of, 27 Ogilvie, Mr., English Consul at Jeddah, shot at for amusement by Albanian soldiers, i. 133 Ohod, Jabal (Mount Ohod), i. 279, n., 285 Prayer in honour of the martyrs of, 328 Grave of Aaron on, 346 Its distance from Al-Madinah, 379 Winter on, 382 Visitation to the martyrs of, 419 The Prophet’s declaration concerning it, 421 Supposed to be one of the-four hills of Paradise, 421, n. Meaning of the word, 422, n. Causes of its present reputation, 423 Its springs, 423, n. The Mustarah or resting-place, 424 The Fiumara of, 424 Its distance from Al-Madinah, 425 Its appalling look, 425 [p.460] Olema, their regulation respecting the prostration prayer, ii. 312 Their opinion respecting the death of Moslem saints, &c., 340, n. One of the five orders of pensioners at the prophet’s Mosques, 375 Omar, the Caliph. His window in the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 316 Benediction bestowed on him, 320 His tomb, 325 His Mosque at Jerusalem, 325, n. Sent forward by the Prophet to Al-Madinah, 354 Improves the Masjid at Al-Madinah, 363 Supplies the town of Al-Madinah with water, 381 Mosque of, at Al-Madinah, 395 His respect for the Mosque at Al-Kuba, 408 His tomb defiled by all Persians who can do so, 431, 435 His murderer Fayruz, 435 Omar Bin Abd al-Aziz, governor of Al-Madinah, i. 327, n. Omar Effendi, his personal appearance, i. 161 His character, 161 His part in the fray on board the ship, 192 Effects of a thirty-six hours’ sail on him, 209 His brothers at Yambu’, 230 His alarm at the Hazimi tribe, 231 Takes leave of Yambu’, 241 His rank in the camel file, 243 His arrival at Al-Madinah, 281 His house in Al-Barr, 297 His intimacy with the pilgrim, 300 His gift of a piece of a Kiswah to the pilgrim, 322, n. His account of the various offices of the Mosque of the Prophet, 311 His share of the pensions of the Mosque, 375 Accompanies the pilgrim to Ohod, 419 Bids him adieu, ii. 54 His brothers the shopkeepers of Al-Madinah, 8, n. Runs away from his father at Jeddah, 270 Caught and brought back, 271 Omar ibn Fariz, poems of, i. 107, n. Onayn, the Masjid, near Al-Madinah, ii. 49 Onions, leeks, and garlic, disliked by the Prophet, i. 357 Abominable in the opinion of the Wahhabis, 357, n. Ophthalmia in Egypt, i. 181 Rarity of, in Arabia, 385 Allusions of Herodotus to, 385, n. An ancient affliction in Egypt, 385, n. A scourge in Modern Egypt, 386, n. Origin and progress of the disease, 386, n. Practices of Europeans to prevent, 386, n. Remedies of the author, 387, n. Errors of native practitioners, 387, n. Orientals, their repugnance to, and contempt for, Europeans, i. 110 Discipline among, must be based on fear, 212 Effect of a strange place on them generally, 232, n. Osman Effendi, the Scotchman, i. 388, n. Osman, the Caliph, his Cufic Koran, ii. 322, n. His wish to be buried, near the Prophet, 325 Prayers for, 328 The niche Mihrab Osman, 330 Assists in building the Prophet’s Mosque, 361 Builds the second Mosque at Al-Madinah, 363 Enlarges the Mosque of Al-Kuba, 408 Loses the Prophet’s seal ring, 413 His troubles, 413, n. Visit to his tomb at Al-Bakia, ii. 32 His funeral, 35 His two wives, the daughters of the Prophet, 36, n. Osman, the Pasha, the present principal officer of the Mosque at Al-Madinah, ii. 371 Osman, Bab, i. 361 Osman bin Mazun, his burial-place, ii. 32 Ostriches, found in Al-Hijaz, ii. 106, n. Arab superstition respecting them, 106, n. Ovington, reference to, i. 281, n. Oxymel. See Sikanjabin [p.461] PALM-GROVE, of Al-Madinah, i. 360 Palm-trees, venerable, of the hypæthral court of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 337 Extensive plantations of, in the suburbs of Al-Madinah, 397 Loveliness of the palm-plantations of Al-Madinah, 399 Celebrity of its dates, 400 The time of masculation of the palms, 403 The Daum or Theban palm, ii. 62 Parah, value of the Turkish coin so called ii. 11, n. “Paradise, Mountains of,” i. 222, ii. 274, n. Parasang, the Oriental, in the days of Pliny, and at the present day, ii. 343, n. Pashin valley, inhabitants of, i. 246, n. Pass, Arabic terms for a, ii. 61 Passports in Egypt (Tazkirah) inconveniences of, i. 19 Sir G. Wilkinson’s observations on, 18, n. Adventures in search of one, 19 British, carelessness in distributing, in the East, 46 Difficulty of obtaining one in Egypt, 127, et seq. “Path” (Tarakat) to heaven, i. 15 Pathan (Afghan), the term, i. 45 Paul’s, St., in London, the fourth largest cathedral in the world, i. 364, n. Pebbles of the accepted, ii. 180, n. Pensioners, orders of, at the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 375 Perceval, M.C. de, reference to, i. 275, n. His account of Amlak, 343, n. His remarks on the title “Arkam,” 345, n. Quoted, 347, n., 350, n. Referred to, 353, n., 354, n., 384, n., 399, n. Perfumed pillar, in the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 335 Perfumes, of the Zair, i. 309, n. Perjury, price of, at Jeddah, i. 47 Persia, tobacco and pipes of, i. 179 Persian Pilgrims, a disagreeable race, i. 205 They decline a challenge of the orthodox pilgrims, 222 Persecutions they suffer in Al-Hijaz, 232, n. Luxuriance of the plains of, 251 The Persians’ defilement of the tombs of Abu Bakr and Omar, 431, n. Eunuchs among the, 371, n. Fire-temples of the ancient Guebres in, 379, n. Large number of, in the Damascus caravan, 434 Treatment of the “Ajami” at Al-Madinah, 434 Charged with having defiled the Ka’abah, ii. 168, n. Peter’s, St., at Rome, the second largest cathedral in the world, ii. 364, n. Pharaoh, the “Cæsar aut Diabolus” of the Nile, i. 10, n. Spot where he and his host were whelmed in the “hill of waters,” 199 Arab legends respecting that event, 199, n. Pharaoh’s Hot Baths (Hammam Faraun), i. 197 Philosophy (Hikmat), study of, little valued in Egypt, i. 107, n. Phœnician colony on the Red Sea, i. 202 The Phœnicians identified with the Amalik of Moslem writers, i. 343, n. Physicians, Arab, not so skilful as they were, i. 390 Physiologists, their errors respecting the food of the inhabitants of hot and cold countries, ii. 11, n. Piastre, value of, ii. 11, n. Pickpockets in Egypt, i. 25 [p.462] Pigeons, sacred at Meccah, ii. 174 Enter almost everywhere into the history of religion, 175 Pilgrims, distribution of, at Alexandria, into three great roads, i. 168 Pauper pilgrims, 168 Steady decrease of the number of pilgrims who pass annually through Suez, 176 Reasons assigned for this, 177 Takrouri pilgrims, 177 The Hamail, or pocket Koran of, 239 How they live on the march, ii. 63 Ordinances of the pilgrimage, 140 Offerings for atonements in cases of infractions of, 140 Observations on, 279 Common to all old faiths, 279 Conditions under which every Moslem is bound to perform the pilgrimage, 279 The three kinds of pilgrimage, 280 The treatise of Mohammed of Shirbin respecting pilgrim rites, 281, et seq. Directions to the intending pilgrim, from other books, 281, n. The Prophet’s last pilgrimage, the model for the Moslem world, 290 The reckless pilgrimages of poor Indians, 185 Note on the ceremonies of the Wahhabi pilgrimage, 195, n. The change from Ihram to Ihlal, 205 The Umrah, or little pilgrimage, 251 Pilgrim’s tree, i. 154 Probably a debris of fetish-worship, i. 155, n. Its practice in various Eastern countries, 155, n. Pistols, of the Badawin, ii. 105 Pitts, Joseph, his pilgrimage to Meccah and Al-Madinah; ii. 358 Sketch of his adventures, 358, et seq. Plague. See Taun Poetry, Arab, those generally studied, i. 107, n. The Burdah and Hamziyah of Mohammed of Abusir, 107, n. The Banat Su’adi of Ka’ab al-Ahbar, 107, n. The Diwan Umar ibn Fariz, 107, n. Al-Mutanabbi, 107, n. Al-Hariri, 108, n. Simplicity of ancient Arab poetry, 108, n. Degenerate taste of the modern Egyptians in, 108, n. Poetical exclamations of the pilgrims on obtaining the first view of Al-Madinah, 279, 280 Tenderness and pathos of the old, ii. 93 The suspended poem of Labid, 93 The poetic feeling of the Badawin, 97 The improvisatore of the Benu Kahtan, 98, n. Arabic suited to poetry, 99 The rhyme of the Arabs, 101, n. Poison. The Tariyak of Al-Irak, the great counter-poison, ii, 108 Poisoners, professed, introduced by Mohammed Ali, ii. 86, n. “Poison-wind,” i. 265, n. Its effects, 265, n. Police of Egypt, curiosity of, i. 2 Police magistrates in Cairo, scenes before, 120 The “Pasha of the Night,” 120 Politeness of the Orientals, i. 210 Unpoliteness of some “Overlands,” 210 Polygamy and monogamy, comparisons between, ii. 91, n. Pomegranates, of Al-Madinah, i. 405 The Shami, Turki, and Misri kinds, 405 Pompey’s pillar, i. 10, 29 Prayer, the Abrar, or call to, i. 88 The Maghrib, or evening, 151, n. The Isha, or night prayer, 233 Prayer to prevent storms (Hizb al-Bahr), 211 The prayer recited, 211 Prayers on first viewing the city of Al-Madinah, 259 The prayer at the Prophet’s Mosque, 309 The places of prayer at, 311 The afternoon prayers, 312 The Sujdah, or single-prostration prayer, 312 The Dua, or [p.463] Supplication after the two-bow prayer, 312 The position during, 313 Efficacy ascribed to the act of blessing the Prophet, 316 Prayer at the Shubak al-Nabi, 316 Ancient practice of reciting this prayer, 316, n. The Testification, 318 The benedictions on Abu Bakr and on Omar, 320 The two-bow prayer at the Rauzah or Garden, 325, n. The prayer at the Malaikah, or place of the angels, 326 The prayer opposite to the grave of the Lady Fatimah, 327, n. The prayer in honour of Hamzah and of the martyrs of Mount Ohod, 328 Prayers for the souls of the blessed who rest in Al-Bakia, 328 At the Prophet’s window, 329 Public service in Al-Rauzah, 330, n. Origin of the prayer-niche in the Mosque, 361, 364, n. Al-Kuba, the first place of public prayer in Al-Islam, 407 The Niyat, or intention, 409 The Prophet’s place of prayer at Al-Kuba, 409 The prayers at the Mosque of Al-Kuba, 409 The prayers at Hamzah’s tomb, 427 The Niyat when approaching Meccah, ii. 139 The Talbiyat, or exclaiming, 139 The prayers on sighting Meccah, 152 The four Makams, or stations for prayer, 307, 308 The prayers at the Ka’abah, 164, et seq., 209 Procrastination of Orientals, ii. 21 Preacher, at Meccah, his style of dress, ii. 225 Origin of his wooden sword, 226, n. Presents of dates from Al-Madinah, i. 400 Pressgangs in Cairo, i. 117 Price, Major, referred to, i. 384, n. Prichard, Dr., on the Moors of Africa, i. 187, n. Pride of the Arabs, i. 246 Printing-press, in Egypt, i. 108, n. Prophets, in Moslem law, not supposed to be dead, i. 340, n. Prosody (Ilm al-’Aruz), study of, among the Arabs, i. 107 Prostration-prayers, i. 311, n., 312, n. Proverbs, Arab, i. 149, 277, n. Ptolemy the geographer, i. 225 Puckler-Muskau, Prince, his remarks on the reflected heat of the Desert, i. 144, n. Pulpit, the Prophet’s, at Al-Madinah, i. 311 Pyramids, i. 30 Their covering of yellow silk or satin, ii. 213, n.

RABELAIS, on the discipline of armies, i. 268 Races of Badawin. See Badawin Radhwah, Jabal (one of the “Mountains of Paradise”), i. 122 Rafik, or collector of blackmail, ii. 112 Rafizi (rejector, heretic), origin of the term, ii. 4, n. Rahah, meaning of the term, ii. 256 Rahmah, Bab al-, i. 307, 308, 361 Jabal al- (Mount of Mercy). See Arafat, Mount Rahman of Herat, the calligrapher, i. 104, n. Rahmat al-Kabirah, the attack of cholera so called, i. 384 Railway, in Egypt, i. 113 Rain, want of, at all times, in Egypt, ii. 180, 181 The rainy season expected with pleasure at Al-Madinah, i. 383 Welcomed on the march, ii. 142 [p.464] Raisiyah minaret of Al-Madinah, i. 373 Rajm (lapidation), practice of, in Arabia, ii. 180 Rakb, or dromedary Caravan, ii. 50 Rakham (vulture), ii. 62 Ramazan, i. 74 Effects of, 75 Ceremonies of, 77 The “Fast-breaking,” 79 Ways of spending a Ramazan evening, 79 The Greek quarter at Cairo, 81 The Moslem quarter, 81 Beyond the walls, 84 Ramy, or Lapidation, ceremony of, ii. 203 Ramlah, or sanded place, i. 307 Ras al-Khaymah, i. 248, n. Ras al-Tin, the Headland of Figs (the ancient Pharos), i. 7 Rashid, Bir (well of Rashid), ii. 59 Rauzah, Al-, or the Prophet’s garden, at Al-Madinah, i. 310 Traditions respecting it, 310, n. Description of it, 312 The two-bow prayer at the, 325 Public prayers in, 330, n. Farewell visits to, 56 Rayah (the Banner), the Masjid al-, near Al-Madinah, ii. 48 Rayyan, the hill near Meccah, ii. 147 Raziki grapes, of Al-Madinah, i. 404 Red Sea, view of, on entering Suez, i. 158 Injury done to the trade of, by the farzh or system of rotation at Suez, 170 Shipbuilding on, 177 Kinds of ships used on, 178 Imports and exports at Suez, 179, 180 Description of a ship of, 188 Course of ships on, 195 Observations on the route taken by the Israelites in crossing, 195 Scenery from, 195 Bright blue of the waters of, 196 Phœnician Colony on, 201 Christian colony on the shores of, 202 Jabaliyah, or mountaineers of, 202, n. Morning on, 207 Fierce heat of the mid-day, 208 Harmony and majesty of sunset, 208 Night on, 209 Marsa Damghah, 213 Wijh harbour, 214 The town of Wijh, 215 Coral reefs of the Red Sea, 218 The Ichthyophagi and the Badawin of the coasts of, 218 Arab legends respecting the phosphoric light in, 219 Al-Kulzum the Arabic name for the, 250, n. The great heats near, in Arabia, prejudicial to animal generation, 266 The shores of, when first peopled, according to Moslem accounts, 343, n. Rekem (Numbers, xxxi. 8), identified with the Arcam of Moslem writers, 345, n. Religion of the Badawin, ii. 109 Religious phrenzy (Malbus), case of, at Meccah, ii. 175 Susceptibility of Africans to, 175 Rhamnus Nabeca (the Nebek or Jujube), of Al-Madinah, i. 405, n. Rhazya stricta, used as a medicine by the Arabs, ii. 137 Rhetoric, study of, in Egypt, i. 107, n. Rhyme of the Arabs, ii. 101, n. Ria, or steep descents, i. 251 Rida, Al- (portion of the pilgrim dress), ii. 139 “Ridge, Affair of the,” the battle so called, i. 421, n. Rifkah, Al-, the black-mail among the Badawin, ii. 114 Rih al-Asfar (cholera morbus), in Al-Hijaz, i. 384 Medical treatment of the Arabs in cases of, 384 The Rahmat al-Kabirah, 384 Ring (seal), of the Prophet, i. 413 [p.465] Rites of pilgrimage, ii. 281, et seq. Riwaks, or porches, surronding the hypæthral court of the Mosque at Al-Madinah, i. 334 “Riyal Hajar,” a stone dollar so called by the Badawin, i. 370, n. Riza Bey, son of the Sharif of Meccah, ii. 150 Robbers in the Desert, mode of proceeding of, i. 127, 249 Sa’ad the robber-chief of Al-Hijaz, 256 Shaykh Fahd, 257 How Basrah, a den of thieves, was purged, 258, n. Indian pilgrims protected by their poverty, 265 Rock inscriptions near Meccah, ii. 147 Ruasa, or chief of the Mu’ezzins, residence of, i. 334 Ruba al-Khali (the empty abode), its horrid depths and half-starving population, i. 3 “Rubb Rumman,” or pomegranate syrup, of Taif and Al-Madinah, i. 405 Rukham (white marble) of Meccah, ii. 295, n. Rokn al-Yamany, of the Ka’abah, ii. 303 Rumah, Bir al-, or Kalib Mazni, at Kuba, i. 414, n. Rumat, Jabal al- (Shooters’ Hill), near Al-Madinah, ii. 49 Rangit Singh, his paramount fear and hatred of the British, i. 39 Russia, opinions of the Madinites on the war with, i. 292 The present feeling in Egypt respecting, 111 Rustam, battles of, i. 94 Rutab (wet dates), i. 402

SA’AD AL-JINNI (the Demon), description of his personal appearance, i. 162 His character, 162 Equipped as an able seaman on board the pilgrim-ship, 189 His part in the fray on board, 192 Effects of a thirty-six hours’ sail on him, 210 His quarrel with the coffee-house keeper at Wijh, 216 His sulkiness, 223 Leaves Yambu’, 240 His apprehensions in the Desert near Yambu’, 244 Purchases cheap wheat at Al-Hamra, 254 His fear of the Badawin, 261 His fear of the robbers, 272 Takes his place in the Caravan, 272 Forced to repay a debt to the pilgrim, 276 Arrives at Al-Madinah, 280 His intimacy with the pilgrim, 300 Accompanies the pilgrim to Ohod, 418 Sa’ad bin Ma’az, converted to Al-Islam, i. 352 His tomb, ii. 44, n. Condemns the Kurayzah to death, 46 Sa’ad ibn Zararah, his tomb, ii. 44, n. Sa’ad, the robber-chief of Al-Hijaz, i. 256 Particulars respecting him, 256 His opponent Shaykh Fahd, 257 His blood-feud with the Sharif of Meccah, 259 Description of Sa’ad, 259 His habits and manners, 260 His character, 260 He sometimes does a cheap good deed, 265 Conversation respecting him, 270 Description of his haunt, 270 Saba, the land of, i. 348 Sabæans, their claim to the Ka’abah as a sacred place, ii. 302, n. Sabatier, M., i. 112, n. Sabil, or public fountain, of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Sabkhah, or tufaceous gypsum of the Desert, ii. 134 Sacrifices in cases of infractions of the ordinances of the pilgrimage, ii. 140 At Muna, 217, 218 [p.466] Sadakah, or alms, sent to the Holy Land, i. 139, n. Sadi, the Bayt al-, the makers of the Kiswah of the Ka’abah, ii. 215 Safa, Al-, the hill, at Meccah, i. 364 The ceremonies at, ii. 44 Meaning of “Safa,” 44, n. Safk (clapping of hands), practice of, in the East, ii. 223 Sahal, sells ground to Mohammed, i. 357 Sahil, the Sufi, i. 10, n. Sahn, Al-, or central area of a Mosque, i. 307, 333 Sahrij, or water tank, on Mount Ohod, i. 429 Sai, Al-, the ceremony so called, ii. 170, n. Compendium of the ceremony, 288 Saidi tribe of Arabs, i. 145 Saint Priest, M. de, i. 112, n. Saints, in Moslem law, not supposed to be dead, i. 340 Their burial-place at Al-Bakia, ii. 31 Saj, or Indian teak, i. 364 Sakka, or water-carrier of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 331, 373 Salabah bin Amru, i. 349 Salam, among the Moslems, i. 143, 151 Not returning a salam, meaning of, 231, n. Salam, or Blessings on the Prophet, i. 76 Salam, the Bab al-, at Al-Madinah, i. 307, n., 309, 313 Salat, or mercy, in Moslem theology, i. 313, n. Salatah, the dish so called, i. 135 Salih Shakkar, description of, i. 164 Effects of a thirty-six hours’ sail on him, 210 Leaves Yambu’, 241 Arrives at Al-Madinah, 280 Salihi tribe of Arabs, i. 145 Salim, the Benu, their subdivisions, ii. 120, n. Salim, Sultan, of Egypt, i. 146 Salkh, the kind of circumcision among the Badawin so called, ii. 110 Salma al-Mutadalliyah, great-grandmother of the Prophet, i. 351, n. Salman, the Persian, companion of the Prophet, i. 414, n. Salman al-Farsi, the Masjid, ii. 48 Salmanhudi, Al- (popularly El Samhoudy), his testimony respecting the tomb of the Prophet, i. 323 Remarks on his name, 323, n. His burial-place, 323, n. His account of the graves of the Prophet and the first two caliphs, 340 Unsuccessful endeavour to purchase a copy of Al-Samanhudi, 340, n. Visits the tombs of the Hujrah, 368, n. Salt, sacredness of the tie of “terms of salt,” ii. 53, n. The bond of, sacredness of, among the Badawin, 112 The Syrians called “abusers of the salt,” 133, n. Salutation of peace in the East, i. 143, 151, 287 Samanhud, the ancient Sebennitis, i. 323, n. Sambuk, i. 178 Description of, 188 Samman, Mohammed al-, the saint, i. 426 His Zawiyah, or oratory, near Ohod, 426 Samun wind, i. 149, 265, n. Its effects on the skin, ii. 69 And on the travellers’ temper, 127 The, on the road between Al-Madinah and Meccah, 129 Sanctuary, right of, in the Ka’abah, ii. 325 The Prophet’s. See Ka’abah [p.467] Sand, pillars of, in Arabia, ii. 69 Arab superstition respecting them, 66 Sandals donned when approaching Meccah, ii. 139 Sandal, the Oriental, i. 236 Uncomfortable and injurious to wearers of them, 236, n. Sanding instead of washing, when water cannot be obtained, i. 261 Sandstone, yellow (Hayar Shumaysi), of Meccah, ii. 295, n. Saniyat Kuda’a, near Meccah, ii. 152 Saracen, derivation of the word, i. 187, n. Saracens, Gibbon’s derivation of the name, ii. 76, n. Saracenic style of architecture, i. 90, 92, 364 Sarf, Al- (grammar of the verb), study of, in schools, i. 104 Sariyah, or night march, disagreeableness of, ii. 67, 68 Sarraf, or money changer, ii. 235 Sarsar wind, i. 151, n. Sa’ud, the Wahhabi, i. 242 Besieges the city of Al-Madinah, i. 369 Saur, Jabal, Mohammed’s stay in the cave of, i. 355, n. Its distance from Al-Madinah, 379 Sawadi, or black grapes, i. 404 Sawik, the food so called, i. 275, n. Sayh, Al-, the torrent at Al-Madinah, i. 395, 399, 420 Sayhani, Al-, the date so called, i. 401 Sayl, or torrents, in the suburbs of Al-Madinah, i. 380 Sayyalah, the Wady, i. 274 The cemetery of the people of, 274, n. Sayyid, Abu ’l Hayja, Sultan of Egypt, his present to the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 366, n. Sayyid Ali, vice-intendant of the Mosque of Meccah, ii. 319 Sayyidna Isa, future tomb of, i. 326 Sayyids, great numbers of, at Al-Madinah, ii. 3 Their origin, 3, n. Dress of Sayyids in Al-Hijaz, 4 The Sayyid Alawiyah, 4 Graves of the, at Al-Bakia, 32 Schools in Egypt, i. 102 Course of study in Al-Azhar, 103, et seq. Intonation of the Koran taught in, 106 Science, exact and natural, state of, in Egypt, i. 108, n. Scorpions near Meccah, ii. 179 “Sea of Sedge,” i. 196 Seasons, divided into three, by the Arabs, i. 383 Sebastiani, General, i. 112, n. Sebennitis, the modern Samanhud, i. 323, n. Semiramis, eunuchs first employed by, i. 371, n. Sena’a, city of, its depravity, ii. 107, n. Senna plant, abundance of the, in Arabia, ii. 72 Its growth in the Deserts, 137 Sepulchre, the Holy, imitations of, in Christian churches, i. 95 Sermons, Moslem, ii. 313 The Sermons of Sa’adi, 165 The sermon on Mount Arafat, 290 The Khutbat al-Wakfah, Sermon of the Standing (upon Arafat), 197 The Sermon at the Harim, 225 Impression made by it on the hearers, 226 Sesostris, ships of, i. 189 His blindness, 385 Shafe’i, Al-, Mosque of, i. 105, n. Shafe’i, Imam, his vision of Ali, ii. 184, n. Shafe’i, Masalla, or place of prayer of the Shafe’i school, i. 310, n. [p.468] Shafe’i pilgrimage, the compendium of Mohammed of Shirbin relating to, ii. 281 et seq. Shafe’i school, mufti of, at Al-Madinah, i. 373 Shahan, the Benu (a Jewish tribe), in Arabia, i. 347, n. Shajar Kanadil, or brass chandelier of the hypæthral court of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 339 Shaking hands (Musafahah), Arab fashion of, i. 52 Shame, a passion with Eastern nations; i. 37 Shami, Bab al-, or Syrian gate, of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Shami pomegranates, of Al-Madinah, i. 405 Shamiyah, or Syrian, ward of Meccah, ii. 153 Quarrels of the, with the Sulaymaniyah quarter, 153 Shammas bin Osman, his tomb at Ohod, i. 429 Shamsan, Jabal, the burial-place of Cain, ii. 160, n. Sharai and Bi-Sharai, the two orders of Darwayshes, i. 15 Shararif, or trefoiled crenelles in the walls of Al-Madinah, i. 392 Sharbat Kajari, the poison of the Persians, ii. 86 Shark, Al-, i. 266 Explanation of the name, 266, n. Sharki, the Darb al-, i. 380 Sharzawan, Al-, or base of the Ka’abah, ii. 298, n. Shaving in the East, ii. 14 Shaw, Dr. Norton, i. 1, 5 Shawarib, Abu, the father of mustachios, ii. 53 Shaybah, generally called Abd al-Muttalib, grandfather of the Prophet i. 351, n. Shaybah, Ibn, his account of the burial-place of Aaron, i. 346 Shaybah, Bab Benu, legend of, of the Ka’abah, ii. 161, n. The true sangre azul of Al-Hijaz, 206 Keepers of the keys of the Ka’abah, 206 The chief Shaykh Ahmad, 206, n. Shaykh, explanation of the term, i. 14 Description of an Arab, fully equipped for travelling, 234 Shaykhayn, the “two shaykhs,” Abu Bakr and Osman, ii. 2 Shaytan al-Kabir (the Great Devil), ceremony of throwing stones at, ii. 203 Sheep, the three breeds of, in Al-Hijaz, ii. 17 The milk of the ewe, 17 Shems al-Din Yusuf, al-Muzaffar, chief of Yaman, his contribution to the fifth Mosque of the Prophet, i. 368 Sharifs, or descendants of Mohammed, i. 327 Great numbers of, at Al-Madinah, ii. 3 Their origin, 3, n. Their intense pride, 79, n. Forced celibacy of their daughters, 79, n. Their bravery, 150, n. Causes of their pugnacity, 150, n. Sharifi, Al-, the grape so called, i. 404 Shi’ahs, their defilement of the tombs of Abu Bakr and Omar, i. 321, n. Their antipathy to the Sunnis, 321, n. Their aversion to Abu Bakr, 354, n. Their detestation of Syria and of the Syrians, ii. 138, n. Shibr Katt, i. 30 Shibriyah, or cot, for travelling, ii, 65 Ship-building on the Red Sea, i. 177 [p.469] Ships. The toni or Indian canoe, i. 188, n. The “catamaran” of Madras and Aden, i. 189, n. Shiraz, boasts of the Shi’ahs at, i. 321, n. Shisha, or Egyptian water-pipe, i. 80 Shisha, or travelling pipe, ii. 125 Shopping in Alexandria, i. 11 Shuab Ali, valley of, i. 279, n. Shuab al-Hajj, (the pilgrim’s pass), scene in, i. 272 Shugduf, difference between the Syrian and Hijazi shugduf, i. 418 Dangers to, in “acacia-barrens,” ii. 69 Shuhada (the Martyrs), i. 274 Remarks on, 274 Its past and future honours, 274, n. Visit to the graves of the, at Mount Ohod, 426, 427 Shumays, Bir, yellow sandstone of, ii. 295, n. Shurafa, pl. of Sharif, a descendant of Mohammed, i. 327 Shurum, i. 145 Shushah, or tuft of hair on the poll, i. 163 Sicard, Father, i. 195 Sidr or Lote tree of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 337 Sie-fa of the Bokte, in Tartary, i. 58 Siesta, i. 299, n. The Kaylulah, or noon siesta, 299 The Aylulah, 299, n. The Ghaylulah, 299, n. The Kaylulah, 299, n. The Faylulah, 299, n. Sikandar Al-Rumi, tomb of, i. 12 Sikanjabin (oxymel), used as a remedy in fevers in Arabia, i. 387 Silk-tree of Arabia. See Asclepias gigantea Sinai, Mount, i. 202 Sinaitic tribes of Arabs, modern, observations on, i. 145, et seq. Chief clans of, 145 Impurity of the race, 146 Their ferocity, 147 How manageable, 147 Sind, dry storms of, i. 247, 265 Singapore, pilgrims from, to Meccah, i. 179 Silat al-Rasul, referred to, i. 384, n. Sittna Zaynab (our Lady Zaynab), Mosque of, at Cairo, i. 98 Siyuti, Al-, his theological works, i. 106, n. Sketching, dangerous among the Badawin, i. 240 Slaves, trade in, at Jeddah and in Egypt, i. 47 Reform in our slave laws throughout the East much needed, 49 Abyssinian slave, style of courting, 59 Slave-hunting in Africa, 60 Condition of slaves in the East, 61 The black slave-girls of Al-Madinah, ii. 12 Value of slave-boys and of eunuchs, 12 Value of the Galla girls, 13 Price of a Jariyah Bayza, or white slave-girl, 13 Female slaves at Meccah, 233 The slave-market of Meccah, 252 The pilgrim’s resolve, if permitted, to destroy the slave-trade, 252 Ease with which the slave-trade may be destroyed in the Red Sea, 252 Small-pox in Arabia. See Judari Smith, Sir L., his defeat of the Beni Bu Ali Arabs, i. 248 Smoking the weed “hashish,” i. 44 Soap, tafl or bole earth used by the Arabs as, i. 415 Sobh Badawin, their plundering propensities, ii. 58 [p.470] Societies, secret, in Egypt, i. 113 Sodom, the long-sought apple of, ii. 138, n. Sola, plain of, near Meccah, ii. 148 Soldier-travellers, fatalities which have befallen them lately, i. 1 Soldiers in Egypt, i. 118 Solomon, King, i. 212 Mosque of, at Jerusalem, connected with, 305 Somalis, dislike of, to tobacco, i. 194, n. Foundation of the tribe, 344, n. Songs of the Badawi Arabs, i. 145 Of Maysunah, ii. 190 Specimen of one, 223 Sonnini, his description of the “Kayf,” i. 9, n. Reference to, 299 His testimony to the virtues of the Harim, ii. 91, n. Sophia’s, St., at Constantinople, the largest Cathedral in the world, i. 364, n. Spanish cathedrals, Oriental origin of, i. 307 Spears (Kanat), of the Badawin, ii. 106 Sports of the Badawin, ii. 104 Springs of Mount Ohod, i. 423, n. Stanhope, Lady Hester, her faith in magic mirrors, i. 288, n. Statuary and pictures forbidden in Mosques, i. 94 Stimulants, effects of drinking, in the East, i. 265, n. Stoa, or Academia, of Al-Madinah, i. 338 Stocks, Dr., of Bombay, reference to, i. 246, n. Stone, obtained near Meccah, ii. 295, n. That of Panopolis, 296 Stone-worship, ii. 301, n. Storm, description of one at Muna, ii. 218 Dry storms of Arabia, i. 247 Streets, of Al-Madinah, i. 392 Students, Moslem, i. 104, n. Wretched prospects, 108 Sudan (Blacksland), i. 177 Suez (Suways), a place of obstacle to pilgrims, i. 128 Safety of the Desert road to, 156 Its want of sweet water, 158, n. Its brackish wells, 158, n. No hammam (or bath) at, 158, n. Number of caravanserais of, 159, n. Want of comfort in them all, 159, n. The farzah, or system of rotation, in the port of, 170, 178 Exorbitant rate of freight at, 170, n. The George Inn at (see George Inn), 173, et seq. Decrease in the number of pilgrims passing through Suez to Meccah, 176 The ship-builders of Suez, 177 Kinds of ships used at, 178 Number of ships at, 178 Imports and exports, 179, 180 Average annual temperature of the year at, 180 Population of, 181 State of the walls, gates, and defences of, 182 Food of the inhabitants of, 182, 183 Their fondness for quarrels, 183 A “pronunciamento” at, 183 Scene on the beach on a July morning, 186 Sufayna, Al-, the village of, ii. 128 Halt of the Baghdad Caravan at, 128 Description of the place, 130 Sufat (half-caste Turk), the present ruling race at Al-Madinah, ii. 5 Suffah, or sofa, companions of the, i. 363 Sufiyan, Abu, his battle with Mohammed at Mount Ohod, i. 423, 425, ii. 47 His daughter, ii. 35 Sufrah, i. 76 “Sufrah hazir,” i. 76, n. [p.471] Suhayl, sells ground at Al-Madinah to Mohammed, i. 357 Sujdah, or single-prostration prayer, i. 312 Suk al-Khuzayriyah, or greengrocers’ market of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Zuk al-Habbabah, or grain market of Al-Madinah, 391 Sula, or Sawab, Jabal, near Al-Madinah, ii. 48 Sulayman the Magnificent, the Sultan, his donations to the shrines of Meccah and Al-Madinah, i. 310, n., 368 Sulaymani, the poison so called, ii. 86 Sulaymaniyah Munar, i. 333 Sulaymaniyah, or Afghan quarter of Meccah, ii. 153 Quarrels of the, with the Shamiyah ward, 153 Suls character of Arabic, i. 322, n. A Koran in the library of the Prophet’s Mosque written in the, 338, n. Sumaydah, a sub-family of the Benu Harb, i. 256 Sun, his fierce heat on the Red Sea, i. 207 Effects of, on the mind and body, 208 Majesty of the sunset hour, 208 Heat of, in the Deserts of Arabia, 251 Remarks on sunstrokes, in the East, 365, n. Hour at which it is most dangerous, 275 Adoration of, by kissing the hand, ii. 165, n. Sunnat, or practice or custom of the prophet, i. 340, n. Sunnat al-Tawaf, or practice of circumambulation, ii. 170 Sunnis, their antipathy to the Shi’ahs, i. 321, n. Their reverence for the memory of Abu Bakr, 354 Superstitions of the Arabs, i. 427 Error of Niebuhr respecting, ii. 153, n. That respecting the ceiling of the Ka’abah, 207 The superstitions of Meccans and Christians compared, 237 Those of Arabs and Africans respecting the aloe, 248 Supplication, efficacy of, at the Masjid al-Ahzab, ii. 47 Surat, tobacco of, i. 179 Surgery among the Badawin, ii. 108 Suri (Syrian), Shami, or Suryani, tobacco, i. 65, n. Surrah, or financier of the Caravan, i. 374 Suwan (granite), of Meccah, ii. 295, n. Suwaykah, celebrated in the history of the Arabs, i. 275 Origin of its name, 275, n. Suwayrkiyah, headquarters of the Benu Hosayn, ii. 3 Confines of, 72 The town of, 124 The inhabitants of, 123 Swords of the Arabs, i. 248, ii. 106 Their sword-play, 107 Syria, expedition of Tobba al-Asghar against, i. 350 Abhorrence in which it is held by the Shi’ah sect, ii. 133, n. Wars in, caused by sectarian animosity, 133, n. Syrians on the Red Sea, i. 202 Detestation in which Syria and the Syrians are held by the Shi’ahs, ii. 133, n. Called “abusers of the salt,” 133, n.

TABRANI, AL-, his account of the building of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 361 Tafarruj, or lionising, i. 308 Tafl, or bole earth, eaten by Arab women, i. 415 Tafsir (exposition of the Koran), study of, in schools, i. 107 Tahamat Al-Hijaz, or the sea coast of Al-Hijaz, i. 377 [p.472] Taharah, the kind of circumcision among the Badawin so called, ii, 110 Tahlil, or cry of welcome, ii. 159 Taif, population of, i. 393, n. Pears of, 405, n. The “Rubb Rumman” of, 405 The blue peaks of, ii. 148 Takat al-Kashf (niche of disclosure), of the Mosque of Al-Kuba, i. 410 Takiyah, or Darwayshes’ dwelling-place in Cairo, i. 85 The Takiyah erected at Al-Madinah by Mohammed Ali, 285 Takruri pilgrims, their wretched poverty, ii. 62 Takht-rawan, or gorgeous litters, i. 418 Expenses of one, from Damascus and back, ii. 65, n. Talbiyat, or exclaiming, when approaching Meccah, ii. 139 Derivation of the term, 140, n. Talhah, friend of Mohammed, sent forward by the Prophet to Al-Madinah, i. 354 Tamarisk tree, i. 403 Tamattu, Al- (possession), the pilgrimage so called, ii. 281 Tanzimat, folly of, i. 286 Tarawih prayers, i. 80 Tarbush and fez, ii. 15 Tarik al-Ghabir, the road from Al-Madinah to Meccah, ii. 58 Tarikh Tabari, referred to, i. 347 Tarikah bin Himyariah, wife of Amru bin Amin, i. 348 Tariyak (Theriack) of Al-Irak, the counter-poison so called, ii. 108 Tarshish, i. 189 Tarwiyat, origin of the ceremony of, ii. 289, n. Tashrih, the Madani children’s bodes marked with, ii. 13 Tashrit (gashing), the ceremony at Meccah so called, ii. 234, n. Taslim, to say “salam,” i. 329 Tatarif, or cartridges of the Badawin, ii. 116 Taun (the plague), never in Al-Hijaz, i. 384 Tawaf, or circumambulation of the House of Allah at Meccah, i. 305 Ceremonies of, at the Ka’abah, ii. 165 Its probable origin, 165, n. The Sunnat al-Tawaf, or practice of circumambulation, 170 Sketch of the ceremony of Tawaf, 286 Tawarah tribes of Arabs. See Arabs, and Sinaitic tribes Tawashi, the generic name of the eunuchs of the Mosque, i. 371, n. Taxation in Egypt, i. 112, n. Capitation tax levied on infidels, 233, n. No taxes paid by the Madani, ii. 6 Tayammum, the sand-bath, i. 261 Tayfur Agha, chief of the college of eunuchs at Al-Madinah, i. 371 Tayr Ababil, i. 384, n. Tayyarah, or “flying Caravan,” ii. 50 Tazkirah. See Passports Testification, the prayer so called, i. 318, n. Thamud tribe, of tradition, i. 221 Theology, Moslem, observations on, i. 105, et seq. Poverty of an Alim, or theologian, 131 Thieves in the Desert, i. 248 Thirst, difficulty with which it is borne by the Badawin, ii. 69 How to allay, 69, n. Tigritiya, the Abyssinian malady so called, ii. 175, n. [p.473] Timbak (tobacco), from Persia or Surat, i. 179 Tinder, Nubian and Indian, ii, 138, n. Tipu Sahib, his treatment of his French employes, i. 39, n. Tobacco of Egypt, i. 65 Latakia, 65, n. Suri (Syrian), Shami, or Suryani, 65, n. Tumbak, 66, n. Hummi, 66, n. The Shisha, or Egyptian water-pipe, 80 Pipes of the Badawin and Arab townspeople, 144, n. The old Turkish meerschaum, 144, n. Aversion of the barbarous tribes of Africa to the smell of, 194, n. The shisha (hooka) of Arabia, 296 Syrian tobacco generally used in Al-Madinah, 298 Its soothing influence, ii, 63 Waterpipes, 63 Salary of a pipe-bearer, 63, n. Smoking among the Badawin, 118 The shisha, or travelling pipe, 125 Instance of the Wahhabi hatred of, 129, 142 Tobba Abu Karb, i. 350, n. Tobba al-Asghar, his expedition to Al-Madinah, i. 350 And to Syria and Al-Irak, 350 Abolishes idolatry, 351 Tobba, “the Great,” or “the Chief,” i. 351, n. Tombs: that of Daniyal al-Nabi (Daniel the Prophet), i. 12 Of Sikandar al-Rumi, 12 Of Mohammed a1-Busiri, 12 Of Abu Abbas al-Andalusi, 12 Of the martyred grandsons of Mohammed, Hasan, and Husayn, 97, n. Of Kaid Bey and the other Mamluk Kings, 98 Peculiar form of the sepulchre now common in Al-Hijaz, Egypt, and the Red Sea, 155, n. The tomb of Abu Zulaymah, 199 Of Shaykh Hasan al-Marabit, on the Red Sea, 218 Distant view of the Prophet’s tomb at Al-Madinah, 286 Account of a visit to it, 304-342 The Lady Fatimah’s at Al-Madinah, 308, n., 327, 328 Exact place of the Prophet’s tomb, 322 The tombs of Abu Bakr and of Omar, 324 The future tomb of Sayyidna Isa, 326 Tombs of the father and mother of the Prophet, 351, n. Tomb of Mohammed, 359, 363 Attempted robbery of the tombs of Mohammed and of his two companions, 367 The tombs in the Hujrah visited by Al-Samanhudi, 368, n. The tomb of Aaron on Mount Ohod, 423 Hamzah’s tomb, 426 That of Abdullah bin Jaysh at Ohod, 428 Visit to the tombs of the saints of Al-Bakia, ii. 31, et seq. Tombs of Hagar and Ishmael at Meccah, 305 Burial-places of Adam, Abel, and Cain, 160, n. Tombs of celebrity at the cemetery of Meccah, 249, et seq. Eve’s tomb near Jeddah, 273 Tott, Inspector-General, i. 112, n. Trade and commerce, condition of, at Al-Madinah, ii. 8 The three vile trades of Moslems, 149, n. Trafalgar, Cape, i. 7 Remarks on the meaning of the word, 7, n. Travellers, idiosyncrasy of, 16 “Trees of Al-Madinah,” the celebrated, i. 286 Tripoli, i. 190 Tumar character, of Arabic, ii. 215 Tumbak tobacco, i. 66, n. Tunis, i. 190 Tur, the old Phœnician colony on the Red Sea, i. 201 Terrible stories about the Badawin of, 201 The modern town, 202 The inhabitants of, 202 The delicious dates of, 204 [p.474] Tur, Jabal (Mount Sinai), i. 202 Turki pomegranates of Al-Madinah, i. 405 Turks on the pilgrimage, i. 191 Turkish Irregular Cavalry in the Deserts of Arabia, 249 Imbecility of their rule in Arabia, 257 Delenda est marked by Fate upon the Ottoman empire, 259, n. Probable end of its authority in Al-Hijaz, 259 Douceurs given by them to the Arab shaykhs of Al-Hijaz, 266 Their pride in ignoring all points of Arab prejudices, 304 Their difficulties in Arabia, 359 One killed on the march by an Arab, ii. 127 Their dangerous position in Al-Hijaz, 151, n. Turkish pilgrims at Meccah, author’s acquaintance with, 171 Tussun Bey, defeat of, by the Badawin, i. 262 Concludes a peace with Abdullah the Wahhabi, i. 370 Tutty (Tutiya), used in Al-Hijaz for the cure of ulcers, i. 390

UHAYHAH, of the Aus tribe, i. 351, n. Ukab, the bird so called, ii. 62 Ukayl bin Abi Talib, brother of Ali, his tomb, ii. 38, 44 Ulcers (Nasur) common in Al-Hijaz, i. 390 Antiquity of the disease in Arabia, 390 Death of Am al-Kays, the warrior and poet, 390 Mandate of Mohammed Abu (see Mohammed), 390 The Hijaz “Nasur,” and the Yaman ulcer, the “Jurh al-Yamani,” 390, n. Popular treatment of, 390 Umar ibn Fariz, poems of, i. 107, n. Umbrella, the sign of royalty, ii. 150, n., 196 Umrah (the little pilgrimage), ii. 281 The ceremonies of, 241, 292 et seq. Its situation, 341 Urdu, or camp of soldiers in Al-Hijaz, i. 394, n. Urtah, or battalion of soldiers, i. 394, n. Usbu, or seven courses round the Ka’abah, ii. 167, n Ustuwanat al-Ashab, or the Companions’ column, at the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 326, n. Ustuwanat al-Mukhallak, or the perfumed pillar, 335 Ustuwanat al-Hannanah, or weeping pillar at the Prophet’s Mosque, 335 Ustuwanat al-Ayishah, or pillar of Ayishah, 335 Ustuwanat al-Kurah, or pillar of Lots, 335 Ustuwanat al-Muhajirin, or pillar of Fugitives, 335 Ustuwanat al-Abu Lubabah, or pillar of Lubabah or of repentance, 336 Ustuwanat al-Sarir, or pillar of the Cot, 336 Ustuwanat Ali, or column of Ali the fourth Caliph, 336 Ustuwanat al-Wufud, 336 Ustuwanat al-Tahajjud, where the Prophet passed the night in prayer, 336 Utaybah Badawin. Ferocity of, ii. 136, 144 Charged with drinking their enemies’ blood, 136 Their stoppage of the Damascus Caravan, 143 Dispersed by Sharif Zayd 144 Utbah bin Abi Wakkas, the infidel, i. 430 Utum, or square, flat roofed, stone castles in Arabia, i. 347

VALLEYS in Arabia, longitudinal, transversal, and diagonal, i. 252 Vasco de Gama, his voyage to Calicut, i. 187, n. Vegetables of the plain of Al-Madinah, i. 404 Vena, common at Yambu’, i. 389 Treatment of, 389 [p.475] Venus, worship of, by the Hukama, ii. 162 Verdigris used in Arabia for the cure of ulcers, i. 390 Vertomannus Ludovicus, his pilgrimages to Meccah and to Al-Madinah, ii. 333, et seq. Victims, ceremonies of the Day of, ii. 202, et seq. Villages frequently changing their names, i. 245 Vincent on the Moors of Africa, i. 187, n. Vine of Al-Madinah, ii. 404 Visions in the East, ii. 184, n. Visits of ceremony after the Ramazan, i. 116 Of the middle classes in Egypt, 135, n. After a journey, 190 Volcanoes, traces of extinct, near Al-Madinah, ii. 61

WADY, the Arabian, i. 150, n. The Wady al-Ward (the Vale of Flowers), 150 Wady, al-Kura, town of, founded by the Jews, i. 347 The route from Al-Madinah to Meccah so called, ii. 58 Wady al-Subu, town of, founded by the Jews, i. 347 Wady, the Masjid al-, ii. 49 Wahhabis, aversion of to tobacco, i. 194, n. Ruinous effect of the wars between them, and the Egyptians, 254, n. Their defeat of Tussun Bey and 8000 Turks, 262 Their tenets, 306 Their opposition to Ali Bey, 306, n. Their rejection of the doctrine of the Prophet’s intercession, 318, n. Their dislike to onions, 357, n. And of Turkish rule in Al-Hijaz, 360 Their siege of Al-Madinah, 369 Defeated by Mohammed Ali at the battle of Bissel, ii. 89, n. Instance of their hatred of tobacco, 129, 142 Description of their march on the pilgrimage, 142 Their bravery, 143 Their appearance at the ceremonies of the day of Arafat, 193, n. Their destruction of the Chapel on Arafat, 193, n. Note on the ceremonies of the Wahhabi pilgrimage, 197, n. Their unsuccessful attack on Jeddah, 265, n. Wahshi, the slave, slays Hamzah, i. 433 Wahshi, Al-, the date so called, i. 401 Wahy, or Inspiration brought by the Archangel Gabriel from heaven, i. 333. n. Wa’iz in the Mosque, i. l00 Wakalah, or inn of Egypt, description of, i. 41 The Wakalah Khan Khalil of Cairo, 42 The Wakalah Jamaliyah, 42 Those of Al-Madinah, 392 The Wakalah Bab Salam, 392 The Wakalah Jabarti, 392 The, of Jeddah, ii. 266 Wakf, “bequeathed,” written in books, i. 340 Bought up by Mohammed Ali Pasha, 359, n. Abolished in Turkey, 359, n. Established by the Sultan Kaid Bey, 368 Wakil (or substitute), in pilgrimage, ii. 243 Wakin, Al-, or Al-Zahrah, the Harrah so called, i. 421, n. Walid, Al-,the Caliph, i. 327, n. Inventor of the mihrab and minaret, 361, n. His magnificent buildings at Al-Madinah, 364 Visits the Mosque in state, 366 Mosques built by him at Al-Madinah, ii. 48 Walis (holy men), of Alexandria, i. 12 [p.476] Wallin, Dr. George, of Finland, his visit to Meccah, i. 5, n. His death, 5, n. His Eastern name, Wali al-Din, 5, n. His remarks on the Arab tribes referred to, 145, n. His admiration of Badawi life, ii. 97 Walls of Al-Madinah, i. 391 “War of the Meal-sacks,” i. 275, n. War-dance (Arzah) of the Arabs, i. 419 Wardan and the Wardanenses, i. 30, n. Warkan, Jabal, one of the mountains of Paradise, i. 270, n. Wasitah, Al-. See Hamra, Al-, i. 253 Watches worn in Arabia, i. 166 Water-bags in the East, i. 24, 125 Value of water in the Desert, 149 Carried across the Desert to Suez, 158 Water-courses (Misyal) of Arabia, 250, 254 The water found in the Deserts of Arabia, 254 “Light” water, 338 Oriental curiosity respecting, 338 Manner of providing, at Al-Madinah, 381 Music of the water-wheels, 400 Quantity of, in the palm-gardens of Al-Madinah, 403 Purity of, throughout Al-Hijaz, ii. 194 Water-spout (Myzab) of the Ka’abah, ii. 304 Weapons of the Badawin, ii. 106 Weeping-pillar in Mohammed's Mosque, i. 335, 362, n. Weights, the, of Al-Madinah, i. 402, n. Welcome, the Oriental cry of, (Tahlil, or Ziralit), ii. 159 Well, Moses’, at Sinai, i. 204 Ancient wells at Aden, 204, n. Wells of the Indians in Arabia, i. 274, n. The Bir al-Aris at Kuba, 412 The pilgrim’s “Kayf” on the brink of, 412 Former and present number of wells of Al-Kuba, 414 The Saba Abar, or seven wells, 414 The Bir al-Nabi, 414, n. The Bir al-Ghurbal, 414, n. The Bir al-Fukayyir, 414, n. The Bir al-Ghars, 414, n. The Bir Rumah, or Kalib Mazni, 414, n. The Bir Buza’at, 414, n. The Bir Busat, 414, n. The Bir Bayruha, 414, n. The Bir Ihn, 415, n. The three wells of the Caliph Harun at Al-Ghadir, ii. 134 Wellington, Duke of, his remark on the means of preserving health in India, i. 264, n. West, Mr., sub-vice-consul at Suez, his kindness to the pilgrim, i. 169 Wijh Harbour, on the Red Sea, i. 214 The town, 215 Wilkinson, Sir Gardner, his observations on Egyptian passports, i. 18 Wind, the Samum, i. 149 The Sarsar, 151, n. The “poison-wind,” 265, n. The eastern wintry winds of Al-Madinah, 382 Wishah, the style of dress so called, ii. 139 Wives of the Prophet, tombs of, ii. 38 His fifteen wives, 38 Wolf’s tail (Dum i Gurg), the grey dawn, i. 154 Women, shrill cries of joy with which Arab women receive their husbands after returning from a journey, i. 357, ii. 154 Flirtation and love-making at festivals, i. 116 The public amusements allowed to Oriental women, 118 The death-wail, 118 An Armenian marriage, 123 Faults of Moslem ladies’ dressing, 123, n. Condition of, in Egypt, at the present day, 175 The opprobrious term Misriyah, 175 Dress of the women of Yambu’, 229 The face-veil, 229 The lisam of Constantinople, [p.477] 229, n. Retired habits of the women at Al-Madinah, 297 Soft and delicate voices of the Somali women, 297 The Gynæconitis of Arab women, 298 Ablutions necessary after touching the skin of a strange woman, 298, n. A Persian lady’s contempt for boys, 303 The Bab al-Nisa, or women’s gate at Al-Madinah, 308 Disgrace of making a Moslemah expose her face, 365, n. The women of the farmer race of Arabs, 406 Tafl, or bole earth, eaten by them, 415 Women devotees at the Harim, 434 Women sometimes not allowed to join a congregation in Al-Islam, 434, n. Dress and customs of the Indian women settled at At-Madinah, ii. 6 Value of black slave-girls, 12 Price of a Jariyah Bayza, or white slave-girl, 13 Dress of the women of Al-Madinah, 15, 16 Their mourning dress, 16 Decency of the women of Al-Madinah, 19 Their pleasures, 20 Their bad language, 20 Arab marriages, 22, et seq. Unwillingness to name the wife among the Arabs, 84 And in other countries, 84, n. Uncomeliness of the women of Al-Hijaz, 85 Softening influences of the social position of the women among the Badawin, 90 Polygamy and monogamy compared, 91, n. The daughters of a higher clan of Arabs not allowed to marry into a lower, 92 Heroism of women, 94 The Arab oath, “by the honour of my women,” 94 Marriage ceremonies of the Badawin, 111 Frequency of divorces among them, 111 Dress of the Badawin women of Al-Hijaz, 116 Unchastity of the women of the Hitman tribe of Arabs, 121 Ejaculations of women when in danger of exposing their faces, 134, n. Strange dress of pilgrim women, 141 Wahhabi women on the pilgrimage, 142 Place for the female pilgrims in the Ka’abah, 309 The Kabirah, or mistress of a house, 160 How directed to perform the Sai, 288 Moslem prayers for the souls of women, 293 Superstitious rite on behalf of women at Arafat, 189 Manner of addressing respectable Moslem women, 190, n. An adventure with a fair Meccan, 197-199 The slave market of Meccah, 252 Appearance of the slaves, 252 “Wormwood of Pontus,” i. 155 Wounds, Badawin method of treating, i. 271, n., 389 Writing, Oriental, remarks on, i. 103 Skilful penmanship but little valued at the present day, 103, n. The Turkish ornamental character called “Suls,” 103, n. The Persian character, 103, n. The Egyptian and Arab coarse and clumsy hand, 104, n. The Mirza Sanglakh, 104, n. Writing and drawing generally disliked by Arabs, 240 Writing on noted spots, the practice both classical and Oriental, 432 Wuzu (the lesser ablution), i. 6, 77, 230 Wukuf, or standing upon Mount Arafat, Arab legend respecting, ii. 289, n. The pilgrim rites of, 289

Y.S., the chapter of the Koran, i. 366, n., 429 Yaman, Al-, tamarinds from, i. 180 Mountains of, 265, n. Coffee of, 290, n. The birthplace of the Aus and Kharaj, 348 Sufferings of the people of, from ulcers, 390 Mandate of the conqueror Mohammed Abu. See Mohammed, 390 Demoralisation of the Arabs of, ii. 107 Former horse trade of, 195, n. [p.478] Yambu’, tribes inhabiting the deserts about, i. 145 Yambu’ al-Bahr (or Yambu’ of the Sea), 225 The Iambia of Ptolemy, 225 The Sharif of Yambu’, 226 Description of the town, 226 Varieties of the population at, 228 An evening party at, 232 Strength of the walls and turrets of, 242 Attacked by Sa’ud the Wahhabi, 242 Jews settled in, 347, n. Diseases of, 389 Population of, 393, n. Yanbua of the palm grounds, i. 225 Yarab bin Kahtan bin Shalik bin Arkfakhshad bin Sam bin Nuh, descendants of, i. 348 Yasir bin Akhtah, plots against Mohammed, i. 358 Yasrib (now Al-Madinah), settled by fugitive Jews, i. 347 Yaum al-Tarwiyah, ii. 289 Description of, 178 Yaum al-Nahr (the day of throat-cutting), 202, 290 Yazid, son of the Caliph Mu’awiyah and his Badawi wife Maysunah, ii. 191, n. His contempt for his father, 191, n. Cursed by the disciples of the Shafe’i school, ii. 37 Yorke, Colonel P., i. 1 Yusuf, the Jewish “Lord of the Pit,” ii. 78, n.

ZA’ABUT, i. 17, n. Zabit, or Egyptian police magistrate, i. 19 Scenes before, 119 The “Pasha of the Night,” 121 Zafar, the Masjid Benu, also called Masjid al-Baghlah, ii. 45 Zafaran Point, i. 196, n. Zaghritah, or cry of welcome, ii. 159 Zahra, or “bright blooming Fatimah,” i. 327, n. Zahrah, Al-, or Al-Wakin, the Harrah so called, i. 421, n. “Zairs,” visitors to the sepulchre of the Prophet, i. 305, n. Dress and perfumes of the Zairs, 309, n. Zakariya al-Ansari, his theological work. i. 106, n. Zamakhshari, Al-, his grammatical adventures, ii. 98, n. Zananire, Antun, visit to his harim, i. 122 Zarb al-Mandal, the magical science so called in Egypt, i. 388, n. Zaribah, Al-, description of the plain of, ii. 138 Zarka, of Yamamah, story of, referred to, i. 181, n. Zat al-Rika’a, the expedition so called, i. 155, n. Zat al-Salasil (the “Affair of Chains”), ii. 89, n. Zat Nakhl, or “place of palm trees” (Al-Madinah), i. 346 Zawiyah, or oratory, of Mohammed al-Samman, i. 426 Zawwar, or visitors to the tomb of the Prophet, i. 329, n. Zayd, Sharif, his bravery, ii. 144 Disperses the Utaybah robbers, 144 Zaydi sect, ii. 307, n. Zayn al-Abidin, prayers for, i. 328 Tomb of, ii. 40 Zaynab, wife of the Prophet, i. 365, n. Zemzem, the holy well of the Mosque of the Prophet, i. 6, 70, 331 Its supposed subterranean connection with the great Zemzem at Meccah, 338 Rows of jars of the water at the Mosque of Meccah, ii. 297 Description of the building enclosing the well, 309 The Daurak, or earthen jars, for cooling the water, 310, n. Doubtful origin of the word, 162 Esteem in which the water is held, 163 Its qualities, 163 How transmitted to distant regions, 163 Superstitions respecting it, 164 [p.479] Zemzemi, or dispenser of the water of the holy well at Meccah, ii. 125 Ali bin Ya Sin, the zemzemi, 125 Zemzemiyah, or goat-skin water-bag, i. 24 Zikrs, or Darwaysh forms of worship, in Egypt, i. 86 Ziyad bin Abihi, his destruction of robbery in Basrah, i. 258, n. Ziyafah, Bab al-, or gate of hospitality, of Al-Madinah, i. 391 Ziyarat, or visitation, of the Prophet’s Mosque, i. 305, 319 Distinction between Ziyarat and the Hajj Pilgrimage, 305 Where the ceremony begins, 307, n. How regarded by the Maliki school, 311, n. The visitation to Kuba on the 17th Ramazan, 408, n. Ziyarat al-Wida’a, or “Farewell Visitation,” ii. 55 The ceremony of the visit to the Prophet’s tomb, 292 “Ziyaratak,” or “blessed be thy visitation,” the benediction, i. 331 Zubaydah Khatun, wife of Harun al-Rashid, ii. 58 Her celebrated Pilgrimage, 136, n. Zu’l Halifah, the Mosque, i. 279, n. Also called the “Mosque of the tree,” 279, n., 364 Its distance from Al-Madinah, 379 Zuyud schismatics, ii. 6