CHAPTER V. The Potting and Basketing Process

THE POTTING AND BASKETING PROCESS

We are often asked what season is the best for potting and basketing Orchids. Experienced growers say that, with the exception of the winter season, they are engaged in potting operations all the year round, potting each section as it requires it. Springtime is a period when a general overhaul of the plants is usual, and, at that time, plants requiring it should be repotted, but those which are not in the proper condition, or which are showing flower-spikes, should be allowed to remain until their flowering time has passed.

As a general rule, it may be said that the best time to perform the operation is soon after the flowering season has passed, and that no plant should be repotted unless it really requires it; but any plant which has become in a bad condition in the pot by being in unsuitable material should be repotted at once, no matter what season it may be.

Care should be taken to use the pots and crocks in a thoroughly clean condition. Broken crocks are generally used for drainage, although they are not now placed in the pots to the depth of one-half or more, as they used to be. The depth of the crocks varies from about one-third in Cypripediums and terrestrial Orchids generally, to a rather greater depth for Cattleyas, Laelias, and similar Orchids, the depth of crocks also being varied according to the density of the material used, fewer crocks being necessary when a mixture of Osmunda fibre, or other material which lets the water through quickly, is employed in place of peat.

Sand and crushed crocks or potsherds are used by many for mixing with the potting material, but they may easily be dispensed with, or used only in very small quantities.

Turfy loam carefully broken up and mixed in suitable proportions with peat and Sphagnum-moss, or Osmunda, or Polypodium fibre, is necessary for Cypripediums, the proportion of loam being greatest for the stronger-growing plants; certain Selenipediums and Cypripediums require quite one-half of that ingredient. Some good growers use loam fibre with a sprinkling of leaves and broken crocks entirely for Cypripedium insigne and others of the green-leafed class, and also for Calanthes, Phaius, Zygopetalums, and other plants.

In preparing the peat for use in potting, the bracken rhizomes should be set aside to place as a layer over the crocks, with a little Sphagnum-moss. Bracken rhizomes have been used with advantage instead of crocks to form drainage for Odontoglossums, and some growers like it so much for that purpose that the horticultural sundriesmen supply it sterilised in bags.

The methods of potting and choice of material vary with different growers, each pursuing in some matters different methods to those observed by others. It is desirable that an Orchid grower should endeavour to find out the best methods for his own circumstances and, if the results are satisfactory, that he should adhere to them, for there is no more prolific cause of failure than in continually trying experiments recommended by others. The operation of potting or basketing Orchids is very simple, and can be readily learned by observation. The aim should be to avoid injuring the living roots but to leave the plant firm in the pot.

DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM

(At the time the photograph was taken this plant bore 264 flowers.)]

BASKETS AND POTS

It is more in accordance with nature to grow epiphytal Orchids of convenient size in baskets to be suspended from the roof of the Orchid house, and in the case of subjects reputedly difficult to grow the best results are often attained in this way. At the same time, this is due as much to the plants being placed near to the glass of the roof, as to the fact that the air has better access to the roots than when the plants are in pots. Hence it is that for suspending plants of small and medium growth, Orchid pans made in the same way as the flower-pot are found to be a convenient substitute for baskets, as they are not so liable to decay as wood-baskets.

Stanhopeas, Lueddemannias, Acinetas, and some other Orchids which produce their flower spikes directly from the base of the growth, must be grown in baskets to admit of the proper production of their flowers, which, if grown in pots, are sent down into the compost and lost. Gongoras, Cirrhaeas, and similar genera, which produce slender spikes of flowers of drooping habit, are also best in baskets, as they produce their flowers much more freely when the plants are suspended.

The Orchid pan, for suspending, is also equally good for Masdevallias of the Chimaera section, a large number of Bulbophyllums and Cirrhopetalums, and generally for plants of small stature which would be too far away from the glass if placed on the stage. For the bulk of the collection the grower has to use the ordinary flower-pots, which are still unsurpassed for general purposes. The elaborately designed pots, perforated with holes or slits, which were used for Orchids years ago, are not necessary, for there is no defect in the ordinary flower-pot which cannot be overcome by the careful and skilful practitioner.

Rafts and cylinders of teak-wood made in the same manner as baskets are useful for some species, but it has to be remembered that plants on rafts are liable to suffer from lack of sufficient moisture-holding material around them. Broughtonia sanguinea, however, is never so happy as when grown on a horizontally suspended raft without the least potting material.

The great trouble with suspended Orchids, and one which precludes the cultivator employing this culture for so many plants as he could wish, is the drip they cause to the plants on the stages. No Orchid should have another plant suspended above it; if it is not possible to avoid this, the relative positions of the suspended plants should be changed as often as possible; water should only be given them by "dipping" the plants, and they should be allowed to drain thoroughly before being again suspended. As many of the suspended plants as possible should be arranged on each side of the path, and in other situations where there are no plants immediately under them.

Narrow rafts 4 inches wide and 1 foot or so in height are suitable for Angraecum infundibulare, A. imbricatum, and other scandent Angraecums of similar growth. These should be fastened to the rafts with some good Sphagnum-moss between the plant and the raft on the lower half, the base of the plant and the raft being afterwards fastened in a flower-pot with Sphagnum-moss, the raft leaning at a slight angle. Sphagnum-moss can be added on the upper part as the plant grows, and, when sufficiently rooted up the stem, it can be severed half-way up when the base will produce new growths.

STAKING OR FIXING ORCHIDS

Some years ago, when large specimens were favoured, it used to be the practice to stake or "stick" the plants, as it was called, some of them exhibiting almost as many sticks as pseudo-bulbs. The sticks rapidly decayed, often leaving the stumps to harbour fungus and cause injury to the plants.

The compact specimens of the present day, when properly grown, require no support from sticks. In respect to specimens of larger growth, such as Aerides of tall habit, Laelias of the L. purpurata class, and Dendrobiums, when they require sticking at all, they may be securely supported by one stick in the centre, to which one of the strongest growths should be fastened, any others requiring support being looped to the centre stick. The fewer sticks used the better.

Dwarf plants with creeping rhizomes between the pseudo-bulbs used often to be secured when repotted by small wire pegs, and the custom is not yet quite obsolete. Metal, especially galvanised iron wire, which is most commonly used, is very injurious to any portion of an Orchid which is allowed to come in contact with it. Such pegs are unnecessary, for the plants can be fixed with the potting material, and later on the new roots will effectually secure them.

In fastening Orchids on rafts or blocks, fine copper wire should be used, and all the care possible taken to prevent it resting on the rhizomes or stems, a small piece of peat or Sphagnum-moss being placed beneath the wire where it crosses the plant. Where Orchids such as Phalaenopsis are grown in baskets or hanging pans, the leaves should not be allowed to touch the wire suspenders, or injury will result. Where leaves too closely approach the wire suspenders during their growth, the wire should be bent to avoid contact, or have a small shred of cotton-wool or other material bound round it at the point of contact, if the leaf cannot be drawn aside.

For staking Orchids, bamboo canes are preferable to common deal-wood sticks.

LABELLING THE PLANTS

It adds much to the interest of a collection of Orchids, either small or large, if a proper system of recording the plants is arranged for by means of a stock-book, in which the name of each plant is entered as it is acquired, together with the source from which it was obtained, and any other particulars that may be required when the plant flowers. This entry need only be brief, and generally one, or at most two lines will suffice for each plant. If it is intended to keep the plants under numbers, the left-hand margin should bear consecutive numbers from one onward, but if it is desired to have the names on each plant, the names in the stock-book should be arranged in an alphabetical manner. In some collections where numbering is practised the number is written across the top of the label, and the name written lengthwise when desired.

The common deal label is not suitable, because the base soon decays in Orchid houses, causing danger from fungal growth, and rendering the identification of the plant after the label has perished, or fallen away, very uncertain. The lead number for clipping the rim of the pot, or attaching to the wires of the basket or suspending pan, is less objectionable, but they are only convenient where numbers are alone used. Zinc labels and various other contrivances have been tried, but the best and safest label, either for numbers or names, or both, is the white celluloid label, obtainable in all sizes, similar to the ordinary wooden plant label, and in the ticket form for attaching to the baskets by means of fine wire. This kind of label does not decay as the wood labels, and it may be cleaned and used again as long as it remains in a perfect condition. Let all labels be made as small as possible consistent with their being firmly fixed, as it detracts much from the appearance of a house of plants if the labels are too much in evidence. Care must be taken during repotting that the labels removed from the plants should each be returned to its proper specimen. Much trouble may be caused by mixing the labels.