Part 3

We have just completed a small aquarium, by means of which we hope to become better acquainted with the more minute organisms with which the Rock at this season of the year teems. Apart from the study of man himself, what can be more interesting than to be an actual eye-witness of the gradual evolution of the different forms in the great life-scheme of the Creator, from the simple nucleated speck of protoplasm (amœba), which multiplies by simple division, to the more complex structure of the members of the vertebrate kingdom?

JUNE 1901.

A heavy, pounding, nor’-east swell in the early part of this month has almost denuded the higher portions of the Rock of the young vegetation, the tangles being as cleanly cut as if by a reaper. The paidle-cocks’ nests also suffered, as not a vestige of them was left. Several cocks have been seen wandering aimlessly about, their occupation evidently gone.

On the afternoon of the 14th we had a heavy shower of hail, accompanied with loud peals of thunder; but on the whole the month has been fairly good. At high water on several days the Rock was literally black with poddlies feeding on young sand eels, half-a-dozen terns and several small gulls joining in the feast, while a number of gannets kept wheeling and diving in the vicinity, evidently picking up a decent living. The continual splashing of the fish in pursuit of their prey could be distinctly heard by us through our open window while lying in bed. Strange to say, our efforts to “take in” a few of them met with but little success; probably the sufficiency of eels was the cause of their ignoring our questionable lure. The few that we caught were choke full of eels, several of which were disgorged in our doorway still alive.

On the 4th of the month we had a visit from a carrier pigeon, which had evidently strayed in the haze. It carried no message, but was stamped on the wing, and had a numbered rubber ring on its leg. After feeding, it was liberated next morning, with a message attached. We occasionally have similar visitors. Last year one of them landed home in Warwickshire--the owner thanking us and enclosing a consideration for our kindness to the bird.

“There’s nothing new under the sun.” This much quoted aphorism was forcibly suggested to our minds the other day while collecting specimens for our aquarium. In the first instance, a spider-crab, which, when stranded high and dry, appeared but an unsightly mass of tangled seaweed, when placed in the aquarium assumed all the beauties of a verdant grove. From every available point on the upper surface of his mossy-covered shell beautiful variegated plants streamed and waved their delicately-feathered fronds. Conspicuous amongst this luxurious growth were specimens of the corallines or sea-firs, which a casual observer might easily suppose to be miniature fir trees, but which in reality are plants only in semblance. Each of these delicate looking plants is actually an animal; in fact, a colony of animals. Closely placed along each side of the stem and delicate branches of other growths are slight projections or nodules, each containing a separate animal, which it surprises one to learn is eventually destined to become a jelly fish. The benefits of this partnership between crab and coralline is probably mutual, but the advantage to the crab in being thus arrayed is easily seen, as he can remain completely concealed from his enemies, and be able to stalk his prey with greater certainty of success. Shakespeare, in his tragedy of “Macbeth,” caused an attacking force to advance under cover of a wood they had cut down for that purpose, but here in Nature’s own arena similar tactics are being pursued, and probably were ages before “Birnam Wood came to Dunsinane,” or any of the genus homo ever saw the light.

In the second instance, our attention was centred in a small jelly-fish swimming about in a quiet pool, its translucent body being scarcely distinguishable but for the beautiful flashes of iridescent light it was continually giving off in the bright sunshine. This beautiful object might, without exaggeration, be truly termed a living gem. Transferring it to a glass of sea water for a closer inspection, our curiosity was amply rewarded. In shape and size similar to a nutmeg, its body was divided by eight equidistant bands running, as it were, from its North to its South Pole. Two long filamentous tentacles streamed from the lower portion of the animal, and were constantly being shot forth and withdrawn into its body, probably concerned in some way in the animal’s nutrition. Along one side of each tentacle were ranged delicate filaments, scarcely perceptible to the naked eye, and were probably of service in entangling the minute food forms contained in the water. Each of the eight vertical bands was seen to be furnished with minute plates overlapping each other like the plume of a feather. These plates, being continually in motion, were the means by which the animal was propelled through the water; by reversing the action it moved backwards, and by moving those on one side only, a rotary motion was obtained, the action of the plates producing the most brilliant prismatic effects. Call these plates paddles, and their different movements a-head, a-stern, port and starboard, and man’s wonderful invention the paddle-wheel does not appear so very “new under the sun.” The various motions man obtains by means of ponderous machinery are here vested in this simple, almost structureless animal, which has aptly been likened to a drop of animated sea water, and the facility with which it rises to the surface or descends to any depth might furnish hints towards the solution of the submarine vessel, which is at present so engrossing the attention of naval authorities the world over. Dwellers by the sea at this season of the year should have little trouble in procuring specimens of this most beautiful and interesting animal, which would certainly prove to them “a thing of beauty and a joy for”--well, several days, if the water is renewed.

JULY 1901.

Excessive heat, coupled with an unusual continuance of fog, have been the principle features of this month. The continual booming of our explosive fog-signal every five minutes, night and day, would be rather apt to “get on” a stranger’s nerves were he compelled to sleep within a few feet of it; as a rule, it does not disturb us in the least, but with such protracted spells as we have had this month it does become a trifle irksome. The first shot generally sends the beads of some of the window cases rattling down the traps. This has a more disturbing effect on us when asleep than the actual shot itself, of which we are just dimly conscious.

The few boats which have been prosecuting the lobster fishing here for the last three months have now abandoned it. Although fairly successful at the commencement, they were latterly reduced to a mere pittance. A return of four lobsters for the hauling of fifty “sunks” is but a precarious living. Anchored close to the Rock, in order to avoid being run down by prowling trawlers, they often passed the night, sleeping underneath their sails. Their cooking range, consisting of an old metal pail with holes punched through the sides, set on a stone slab, while an empty meat tin did duty as kettle, fish-pan, or tea-pot, as occasion required. It is only within this year or two that the Rock has again attracted the attention of the lobster fisher, after a lapse of many years. Prior to that time, we could always rely on an occasional lobster being found in the holes on the Rock at low water; while crabs, which could be had in abundance, are now extremely scarce, and the lobster, as far as we are concerned, might well be as extinct as the Dodo. We had rather a surprising catch in a lobster-creel one time here. On hauling our creel, instead of the expectant lobster a huge conger-eel was found in possession, his girth just barely admitting him through the “funnel.” A further surprise, however, awaited us; for, on being cut open, a full-grown lobster was found in his stomach. How the biter in this case escaped being bitten is a mystery, as one would naturally suppose the lobster, with his powerful claws, would be more than his match. This recalls an incident which happened the other day. A pretty little fish, of a kind we had not yet seen, was, after some manœuvring, placed in a bucket of water along with some other fish, sea weeds, and shells. On examining our catch a little later, our pretty stranger was nowhere visible; suspicion falling on an ugly-looking little “poach” complacently resting at the bottom of the bucket, Jeddart justice was summarily meted out to the suspected cannibal; a post-mortem conclusively established his guilt. That these fish are cannibals there is not the slightest doubt. I picked up one about a foot long on a beach in Orkney, which had partly succeeded in swallowing, tail first, a brother half his size, but had been choked in the attempt; the horns on either side of his victim’s head becoming embedded in his gullet, he could neither entertain nor reject him. Amongst the numerous aliases by which the “Poach” is known are the following--Bullhead, Hardhead, Cobbler, Shoemaker, Gunflucker, Comper, and Johnny Mainland, the latter being his Orcadian name.

The terns have increased to over a hundred this month; from daylight to dark their creaking voices are dinning in our ears. Most active little birds, they are almost continually on the wing, wheeling and diving with wonderful celerity. Their prey being surface-swimmers--chiefly herring-fry at present--necessitate a dive of only a few inches. The young birds, of which there is a goodly sprinkling, though almost as big as the parents, have not yet acquired the forked tail nor the pronounced plumage of the older birds. Awanting also in dexterity, they are being frequently fed by their parents. It is amusing to witness the chagrin of a youngster when, as sometimes happens, an old one has mistaken it for its own offspring, and only discovers the error when about to drop the glistening prize into its gaping mouth. Woe to the gull who dares invade their sphere of operations when following a shoal of “fry”; he is soon put to rout at the point of the bayonet--for their bills are quite as sharp pointed. While stationed in Orkney I have, when in the vicinity of their nests, been “assaulted to the effusion of blood” as the police reports say, their bills easily penetrating my tweed cap. Horses and cattle are driven in mad flight before these bold little birds, they all the while pecking mercilessly till well clear of their nursery.

The pleasure steamers which formerly visited the Rock from Leith and Dundee have this summer scarcely made an appearance, possibly the attractions of the Glasgow Exhibition is the cause; as yet, only three visits have been made, and these from Dundee. An hour’s fishing is generally given the passengers by the Dundee steamer. The diversity of tackle with which some of these amateur fishermen are equipped is fearful, and clock-weights, half-bricks, and scrap-iron of every conceivable shape take the place of the ordinary sinker. Closely ranged along the vessel’s sides, one can imagine the result of lines so differently weighted, and should a fish be hooked confusion follows. If the sea happens to be a bit “choppy” many of them may be seen earnestly engaged in compulsorily contributing to the support of their erstwhile intended prey, each drawing his own line of demarcation down the vessel’s side, as if suspicious of his neighbour encroaching on his territory.

AUGUST 1901.

The extreme heat prevalent in the earlier part of this month was characterised by a number of unusual visitors but ill adapted for any lengthened sojourn here. Butterflies, bees, wasps, and moths innumerable were to be seen flitting about the rocks in the daytime and clinging to the lantern at night, numbers of them being drowned every time the rocks were submerged. Several daddy-longlegs and a single specimen of the beautiful painted butterfly were seen among the ill-fated host. Why they should have journeyed to such inhospitable quarters is not very apparent, but possibly the steady westerly wind then blowing was responsible for their presence here, and, finding themselves unable to stem the current, like many other unfortunates, they followed the line of least resistance--then, Facilis descensus Averni, and there you are! We have frequent glimpses at present of an exportation of which the statute-books take no cognisance. Quantities of thistledown are to be seen careering before the off-shore wind, probably with Norway for their future home. What a wonderful provision of Nature that enables these mute messengers of the fleeting summer to virtually wing their way to pastures new! suggestive in their silent flight of the

... whisper down the field, Where the year has shot her yield, And the ricks stand grey to the sun.

The sea in our vicinity is just now actually alive with shoals of immature fish, chiefly sand-eels, herring-fry, and what appears to us to be finger-long whitings. Incessant war is being continually waged upon them by the terns from above and the poddlies from below. Watch this particular shoal of “fry” as it swims with the current past our door; notice the orderliness which prevails amongst them, as of a disciplined army. But from below the poddlies have sighted them, and swift as light they are amongst them with a deadly rush. Completely disorganised, the “fry” scatter in every direction. Some seek shelter beneath the glassy domes of the passing jelly fishes; others, twisting and doubling like hares coursed by hounds, spurt spasmodically along the surface in their frantic endeavours to escape the enemies destined by nature for their destruction. The successful raiders are seen scurrying about, with their glistening prizes dangling from their mouths, dodging the thieving attacks of their less successful brethren in the foray. But suddenly a flash of bronze in the bright sunshine betokens the leap of the lordly lythe, as he in turn seizes his victim from amongst the attacking force and as quickly returns to his lurking-place among the luxuriant tangles. And so the war is waged, the strong preying upon the weak, right down the chain of life, till the unaided eye can but discern the destroyer alone. One is apt to experience a feeling of revulsion at the tactics pursued by the lythe in thus lurking concealed, while above him his prey sport in blissful ignorance of his presence. On the other hand, with what little compunction do we ourselves, by every available means, harry their numbers to supply our table, and a savoury dish they are at present; cooked when freshly caught they are simply delicious.

On Saturday the 10th we had a heavy thunderstorm; the lightning was extremely vivid, and appeared to zig-zag from the sea to the zenith, while the thunder, at first resembling the rippling discharge of small arms, gradually increased to the deep boom of heavy ordnance. The hitherto unbroken sea was threshed into white foam by the heaviest rain I have ever seen here. The poddlies, though busy amongst the “fry” at the time, would not deign to look at our “fly,” and, though we tried our best, we did not succeed in hooking a single one. A similar result is experienced during the operation of our explosive fog-signal. As an instance how fish of the same kind may differ, there is a circular pool on the Rock at low water, a couple of fathoms deep and about four fathoms in diameter, named Neill’s Pool, but which we have jocularly nicknamed “the hospital,” as the poddlies taken from there are, as a rule, extremely poor in flesh, often presenting queer abnormities. Some are twisted and deformed; others have constrictions upon their bodies, where at some period of their existence they had been almost cut in two by the snap of some larger fish, probably a lythe; others, again, have been taken with hooks embedded in their jaws and gills, and, though in the last stages of emaciation, do not apparently profit by their former experience. The full-grown lythe may be truly termed the poor man’s salmon, not from a food point of view--though in itself not to be despised--but as a source of sport. Equipped with a rod such as fishermen use who fish for a living, and for a lure preferably a fresh-water eel about six or seven inches long, skinned from the “busking” downwards, a struggle with one of these lusty fish imparts most of the pleasurable sensations of the salmon fisher. Possibly at the first cast your lure is flipped clean out of the water by a vanishing tail, denoting that his lordship has not quite made up his mind about your invitation. However, your next cast is almost sure to be followed by a swift rush, which carries him well out of the water, and your lure is off to the bottom and possibly your tackle along with it, for, despite your triple gut, unless great care is exercised in the first few mad rushes, there will be a dissolution of partnership. Easily fagged, once you succeed in getting his head above the surface, a little judicious towing will land your two-feet bronzed beauty at your feet.

SEPTEMBER 1901.

The Rock has taken on quite a wintry appearance. The vegetation on the more exposed portions has entirely disappeared under the influence of the heavy seas experienced during the greater part of this month. The acorn barnacles with which the higher parts were encrusted are following suit owing to the ravages of the white whelk; the terns have deserted us, and, to complete the prospect, on the morning of the 19th we had the first visit of our winter boarders, the eider duck. A chip of rock covered with acorn barnacles becomes an interesting object when placed in the aquarium. Each conical shell is packed as close as possible to its neighbour, apex upwards. The apex is open, and fitted with a lid composed of four shells. Under water these lid-shells are seen to separate, and a bunch of “fingers” set on a stalk are thrust out, make a clutch, and are withdrawn. The “fingers” have extremely fine hair-like processes fixed at right angles to them, the whole forming a sort of net through which the water is filtered and the minute food-forms retained. It is interesting to know that although now fixed immovably to the rock these animals began life as free swimmers, and, strange to say, closely resembled the young crab. Another object we had under observation at the same time was one of the sea anemones, named the dahlia wartlet. A fleshy-looking disc studded with pieces of broken shell and sand, it appeared anything but attractive; but seen in the aquarium, the connection with its floral namesake was at once apparent. Unfolding itself from an orifice in the centre, as one would “flype” a stocking, rows of beautiful coloured tentacles were disclosed. These tentacles have the property of adhering to any object they come in contact with, and contain within themselves some wonderful mechanism. Placing a fly on the extremity of one of the tentacles, it was immediately held fast. The whole of the tentacles then curled inwards, carrying the fly with them, thus clearly showing their function.

The heavy easterly surf has deprived us for the present of our fishing, forcing the fish off the rock to deeper water. There are evidently plenty about, as the gannets are to be seen busy diving in the vicinity. It is extremely interesting to watch these birds pursuing their prey. Flitting near the surface, they enter the water at an angle of about twenty degrees; again, at a higher altitude, they drop like a plummet, describing an arc of bubbling foam from their entrance to where they emerge with a bounce a few feet further ahead, beating the water with their wings for several yards before being again fairly on the wing. The air cells pervading various parts of the body of a bird, and which contribute to its buoyancy, are probably vested in a greater degree in the gannet, an extremely large one being situated in front of the forked bone, or clavicles. Several instances are recorded where a bird which had its windpipe temporarily obstructed was able, by means of these cells, to carry on the function of respiration through the wing bone, the broken end of which protruded through the skin. The voluntary compression of these cells, by expelling the air, destroys the buoyancy of the bird, and explains the amazing rapidity of its descent. An objectionable method is practised in some places for the capture of these birds. A submerged piece of planking with a herring fixed to its upper surface is set adrift, or towed from a boat, in the vicinity of their fishing grounds. Swooping from an altitude, say, of a hundred feet, they apparently see but the herring alone, with the result that their necks are dislocated by impact with the plank, the impetus of their descent being sometimes so great as to bury their bills to the base in the wood. It is a common sight here, during the breeding season, to see these birds trooping past in Indian file to their home on the Bass Rock, in batches of a dozen or so, each preserving a regular distance from his neighbour. Though I have frequently watched them pursuing their vocation, I have never seen them bring their prey to the surface, nor could I say whether their dive was successful or not; but occasionally they emerge from their dive with a satisfied “honk,” which may be translated “got ’im.” Gifted with an insatiable appetite, they sometimes gorge themselves to such an extent as to be incapable of rising from the water, when they may be easily captured, as they make no attempt to dive. An instance of this was witnessed by a large crowd one Sunday, a few summers ago, in Arbroath Harbour. Some conception of the carrying capacity of these birds may be had when it is known that a sitting mother bird has been seen to insert her bill into the inviting mouth of her returned partner and deftly extract, one by one, as many as six full-grown herring.

A “false alarm” was occasioned at the end of last month by two cormorants or scarts appropriating the signal poles as a roosting-place. One of these poles is fixed on either side of the balcony, and projects horizontally. When a signal is made from the Rock, two-feet discs are suspended from them in pre-arranged positions. A wire stay from the balcony railing supports the extremity of each pole, and on this stay the birds were seated, one at the outer end, the other in the middle. Discs in this position, but pendant from the pole, by our code reads “Send boat,” and this the keeper on shore duty in Arbroath construed it to be and acted accordingly, with the result that we were somewhat alarmed by the appearance of the harbour tug about eleven the same evening. Our impression was that something serious had happened on shore, and that one of our number was urgently wanted. On the tug hailing us, and saying they had been sent out in response to signals shown from the Rock that afternoon, our minds reverted to the birds, and our fears set at rest. Considerable alarm prevailed amongst our families, and not until the tug returned with the news that “All was well on the Rock” were their fears allayed.

On the morning of the 27th the sea round the Rock was seen to be strewn with apples, a few dozen of which we managed to secure. Their presence here is a mystery, and we trust has no connection with the long spell of fog we have had. On the 24th we completed a fusillade of forty hours, a record run of fog.

OCTOBER 1901.

The flock of eider ducks which keep us company through the winter increases daily, and now numbers over thirty. Swimming and diving amongst the breakers from daylight till dark, it is astonishing how they escape being smashed on the bare rocks. The receding wave may leave them almost stranded, and just as the incoming breaker is about to engulf them, they pop through its base and come up on the other side in a smother of foam. They are sometimes quite close to the tower, and then we have an interesting view of their proceedings. The diving of one is generally the signal for the remainder to follow, and the whole flock may be clearly seen, a couple of fathoms down, scurrying over the rocks in eager quest of the different dainties on their menu, consisting chiefly of small crabs. The capture of one of these crabs by no means ensures that it will ultimately contribute to the duck’s sustenance--this is not intended as a reflection on their digestive power, which appears equal to anything short of nails, considering the quantity of hard-shelled crabs they assimilate during a day’s fishing--for, on gaining the surface with his prize, he may be immediately assailed by the marauding gulls and compelled to dive with his prey. This may be repeated several times, until he reluctantly surrenders the succulent tit-bit, or is compelled to swallow it under water--a proceeding they are evidently averse to, otherwise the gulls would fare but poorly in their nefarious calling. The uncertainty of the crab’s final lodgment is again demonstrated in the case of the successful “blackmailer.” Hastily swallowing his booty to avoid being plundered in turn by his fellows, he is again on watch for the reappearance of his unwilling providers. But retribution occasionally overtakes the despoiler as it does his human prototype, with the difference that in default of imprisonment, he is mulcted in the contents of his stomach, the nemesis in this case being the dusky-coated skua or robber gull, who with his hawk-like flight easily heads him at every turn, and the chase terminates only when the contents of the stomach are disgorged, or the excrement voided, either of which is adroitly caught by this foul freebooter of the sea before it reaches the water.

A hazy moonless night, with a sou’-easterly breeze and drizzling rain--given these conditions, at this season of the year we have numerous visits of various birds, members of the autumnal migratory flight. Making straight for the light, they dash themselves against the heavy plate-glass of the lantern; many of them are thus killed and swept by the wind into the sea. Others, again, arrive with more caution, and though taken in the hand and thrown clear of the tower invariably return, and remain fluttering against the glass till daylight reveals to them the futility of their exertions in that direction. The most numerous of these visitors are the redwings and fieldfares, but blackbirds, larks, starlings, wheatears, finches, tits, etc., may be met with in the course of the season. It is somewhat startling, when on watch in the lightroom, to hear the thud with which they strike. The woodcock, owing to his rapid flight, strikes hardest of all, and the other extreme is met with in the smallest of our British birds, the tiny gold-crested wren, whose presence on the lantern is announced by a feeble tinkling sound, which a robust butterfly might easily imitate. The heavier birds do not always strike with impunity; instances have occurred where ducks have gone clean through the lantern to the derangement of the revolving gear of the light, the splintered glass bringing the machinery to a dead stop. An incident of this nature happened a few years ago at Turnberry Lighthouse, on the Ayrshire coast, the intruder in this case being a curlew or whaup. A storm-pane is considered a necessary adjunct to every lightroom, and is always held in readiness to be shipped in case of such emergency. At some shore stations it is customary on the approach of a favourable night, during the migratory period, to keep the cats indoors to prevent them mangling the expected catch. In one particular instance the birds collected of a morning filled an ordinary clothes-basket, and a few nights later included five wild geese, which were secured out of a large flock that came to grief on the dome.

An hour before daybreak on the 22nd it appeared as if we were about to suffer a bombardment, and that daylight was to witness the commencement of hostilities. No less than seven torpedo-boat destroyers were seen creeping close up to the Rock, their low black hulls scarcely discernible in the feeble light, and not until daylight disclosed the white ensign were we assured of their intentions. A little later they were joined by three gunboats and, after some clever manœuvring, formed into three lines, the gunboats occupying the centre. They then steamed away in the direction of the Firth of Forth. Two hours later other three gunboats passed us, going in the same direction, escorted by four destroyers, and followed shortly after by a solitary gunboat. Extremely interesting it was to witness the precision and dexterity of their movements as they swung into their respective positions for the advance, their semaphores all the while going like windmills. Again, on the 24th, about 11 a.m., a fleet of about a dozen battleships, headed by a dispatch boat, was seen moving in stately procession from the Tay, evidently bound for the Forth.

We have had several heliographic communications from our shore station in Arbroath during the month, and providing there is sunshine there is now no difficulty in transmitting messages to the Rock by this means. Four years ago the late Dr Russell, Arbroath, while on a professional visit to the shore station, for which he was medical attendant, witnessed our initial attempts in this direction, and, convinced of the feasibility of the method, urged upon us, in his characteristically vigorous style, the necessity for persevering in our attempts, at the same time predicting that it would ultimately prove successful. Little did we then dream it was soon to become the means of conveying the sorrowful intelligence of this estimable gentleman’s death.

NOVEMBER 1901.