CHAPTER V.

Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about Clarence River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and Fog--A sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians meditated--Enter the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin.

I knew, from the descriptions of Cook and Burney, that the shore about Icy Cape resembled that we had already passed, in being flat, and difficult of approach; while the general trending of the coast from the Mackenzie to the west-north-west, nearly in the direction of Icy Cape, combined with the information we had collected from the Esquimaux, led me to conclude that no material change would be found in the intermediate portion.

The preceding narrative shows the difficulties of navigating such a coast, even during the finest part of the summer; if, indeed, any portion of a season which had been marked by a constant succession of fogs and gales could be called fine. No opportunity of advancing had been let slip, after the time of our arrival in the Arctic Sea; and the unwearied zeal and exertion of the crews had been required, for an entire month, to explore the ten degrees of longitude between Herschel Island and our present situation, I had, therefore, no reason to suppose that the ten remaining degrees could be navigated in much less time. The ice, it is true, was more broken up, and the sea around our present encampment was clear; but we had lately seen how readily the drift ice was packed upon the shoals by every breeze of wind blowing towards the land. The summer, bad as it had been, was now nearly at an end, and on this point I had the experience of the former voyage for a guide. At Point Turn-again, two degrees to the south of our present situation, the comparatively warm summer of 1821 was terminated on the 17th of August, by severe storms of wind and snow; and in the space of a fortnight afterwards, winter set in with all its severity. Last year, too, on the 18th and following days of the same month, we had a heavy gale at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and appearances did not indicate that the present season would prove more favourable. The mean temperature of the atmosphere had decreased rapidly since the sun had begun to sink below the horizon, and the thermometer had not lately shown a higher temperature than 37 degrees. Ice, of considerable thickness, formed in the night, and the number of the flocks of geese which were hourly seen pursuing their course to the westward, showed that their autumnal flight had commenced.

While a hope remained of reaching Behring Straits, I looked upon the hazard to which we had, on several occasions, been exposed, of shipwreck on the flats, or on the ice, as inseparable from a voyage of the nature of that which we had undertaken; and if such an accident had occurred, I should have hoped, with a sufficient portion of the summer before me, to conduct my party in safety back to the Mackenzie. But the loss of the boats when we should have been far advanced, and at the end of the season, would have been fatal. The deer hasten from the coast as soon as the snow falls; no Esquimaux had been lately seen, nor any winter-houses, to denote that this part of the coast was much frequented; and if we did meet them under adverse circumstances, we could not, with safety, trust to their assistance for a supply of provision; nor do I believe that, if willing, even they would have been able to support our party for any length of time.

Till our tedious detention at Foggy Island, we had had no doubt of ultimate success; and it was with no ordinary pain that I could now bring myself even to think of relinquishing the great object of my ambition, and of disappointing the flattering confidence that had been reposed in my exertions. But I had higher duties to perform than the gratification of my own feelings; and a mature consideration of all the above matters forced me to the conclusion, that we had reached that point beyond which perseverance would be rashness, and our best efforts must be fruitless. In order to put the reader completely in possession of the motives which would have influenced me, had I been entirely a free agent, I have mentioned them without allusion to the clause in my instructions which directed me to commence my return on the 15th or 20th of August, "if, in consequence of slow progress, or other unforeseen accident, it should remain doubtful whether we should be able to reach Kotzebue's Inlet the same season."

In the evening I communicated my determination to the whole party; they received it with the good feeling that had marked their conduct throughout the voyage, and they assured me of their cheerful acquiescence in any order I should give. The readiness with which they would have prosecuted the voyage, had it been advisable to do so, was the more creditable, because many of them had their legs swelled and inflamed from continually wading in ice-cold water while launching the boats, not only when we accidentally ran on shore, but every time that it was requisite to embark, or to land upon this shallow coast. Nor were these symptoms to be overlooked in coming to a determination; for though no one who knows the resolute disposition of British sailors can be surprised at their more than readiness to proceed, I felt that it was my business to judge of their capability of so doing, and not to allow myself to be seduced by their ardour, however honourable to them, and cheering to me.

Compelled as I was to come to the determination of returning, it is a great satisfaction to me to know, as I now do, that the reasons which induced me to take this step were well-founded. This will appear by the following extract from Captain Beechey's official account of his proceedings in advancing eastward from Icy Cape, with which I have been favoured.

"Mr. Elson, (the master,) after quitting the ship off Icy Cape, on the 18th August, had proceeded along the coast without interruption, until the 22nd of the month, when he arrived off a very low sandy spit, beyond which, to the eastward, the coast formed a bay, with a more easterly trending than that on the west side; but it was so low that it could not be traced far, and became blended with the ice before it reached the horizon. It was found impossible to proceed round the spit, in consequence of the ice being grounded upon it, and extending to the horizon in every direction, except that by which the boat had advanced, and was so compact that no openings were seen in any part of it. This point, which is the most northern part of the continent yet known, lies in latitude, by meridian altitude of the sun, 71 degrees 23 minutes 39 seconds N.; and longitude, by several sets of lunar distances, both observed on an iceberg, 156 degrees 21 minutes W.; and is situated one hundred and twenty miles beyond Icy Cape. Between these two stations, and, indeed, to the southward of the latter, the coast is very flat, abounding in lakes and rivers, which are too shallow to be entered by anything but a baidar. The greater part of the coast is thickly inhabited by Esquimaux, who have their winter-habitations close to the beach.

"The barge had not been off this point sufficiently long to complete the necessary observations, when the same westerly wind, which had induced me to proceed round Cape Lisburn, brought the ice down upon the coast, and left the boat no retreat. It at the same time occasioned a current along shore to the northward, at the rate of three and four miles per hour. The body of ice took the ground in six and seven fathoms water, but pieces of a lighter draft filled up the space between it and the shore, and, hurried along by the impetuosity of the current, drove the barge ashore, but fortunately without staving her. By the exertions of her officers and crew she was extricated from this perilous situation, and attempts were made to track her along the land wherever openings occurred, in execution of which the greatest fatigue was endured by all her crew. At length all efforts proving ineffectual, and the spaces between the ice and the shore becoming frozen over, it was proposed to abandon the boat, and the crew to make their way along the coast to Kotzebue Sound, before the season should be too far advanced. Preparations were accordingly made; and that the boat might not be irrevocably lost to the ship, it was determined to get her into one of the lakes, and there sink her, that the natives might not break her up, and from which she might be extricated the following summer, should the ship return. During this period of their difficulties they received much assistance from the natives, who, for a little tobacco, put their hands to the tow-rope. Their conduct had, in the first instance, been suspicious; but in the time of their greatest distress, they were well disposed, bringing venison, seal's flesh, oil, &c., and offered up a prayer that the wind would blow off the shore, and liberate the boat from her critical situation. Before the necessary arrangements were made respecting the barge, appearances took a more favourable turn; the ice began to move off shore, and after much tracking, &c., the boat was got clear, and made the best of her way toward the sound; but off Cape Lisburn she met with a gale of wind, which blew in eddies so violently, that it is said the spray was carried up to the tops of the mountains; and the boat, during this trial, behaved so well, that not a moment's anxiety for her safety was entertained. I must not close the account without expressing my warm approbation of the conduct of Mr. Elson."

The barge rejoined Captain Beechey on the 10th September, at Chamisso Island, the Blossom having gone thither to wood and water, and being further forced to quit the coast to the northward, in consequence of strong westerly winds.

Could I have known, or by possibility imagined, that a party from the Blossom had been at the distance of only one hundred and sixty miles from me, no difficulties, dangers, or discouraging circumstances, should have prevailed on me to return; but taking into account the uncertainty of all voyages in a sea obstructed by ice, I had no right to expect that the Blossom had advanced beyond Kotzebue Inlet, or that any party from her had doubled Icy Cape. It is useless now to speculate on the probable result of a proceeding which did not take place; but I may observe, that, had we gone forward as soon as the weather permitted, namely, on the 18th, it is scarcely possible that any change of circumstances could have enabled us to overtake the Blossom's barge.

A gale rose after noon from N.E. by N., which enabled us to shape a course for Foggy Island, where we arrived at three P.M., just at a time when the violence of the squalls, and the increased height of the swell, would have rendered further proceeding very hazardous. We now enjoyed the comforts of a good fire and a warm meal, which we had not had since the evening of the 16th. The men were afterwards employed in erecting a square pile of drift timber, on the highest part of the island fronting the sea, on which a red cornet flag was left flying, and underneath it was deposited, in a tin case, a letter for Captain Parry, containing an account of our proceedings; also a silver medal and a halfpenny: and in order that government might have some chance of hearing of our proceedings, should any accident subsequently befal the party, there was also deposited an unsealed letter, wrapped in bark, addressed to the Russian Fur Traders, in the expectation that the Esquimaux might probably convey it to their Establishment. An ice-chisel, a knife, a file, and a hatchet, were hung up on the pile, for the Esquimaux. On digging to erect these posts, the ground was found frozen at the depth of sixteen inches; and the thermometer, during the day, seldom rose above 37 degrees. This evening the temperature was 33 degrees. [Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.] We were vexatiously detained the 19th, and following day, by the continuance of the gale, and a thick fog; during which time many large flocks of geese were observed passing away to the westward. The tides were now much higher than during our first visit.

Renewing our course, we passed on the outside of the ice until we were nearly abreast of Mount Conybeare, when the wind came strong from the eastward, and obliged us to have recourse again to its shelter. This barrier, however, terminated at the end of five miles, and being then exposed to the wind and swell, against which the men were unable to pull, we encamped.

The experience we had now gained of the ice being packed upon this shore by a wind from the sea, assured us of the correctness of the report which the Esquimaux had given, and likewise afforded a reason for their expression of surprise at our being unprovided with sledges, as it was evident, unless a strong wind blew from the land, that the new ice would soon unite the pack with the shore, and preclude the possibility of making the passage in boats, unless by going outside of the ice, which would be extremely hazardous, from the want of shelter in the event of a gale springing up. The pieces of ice were generally from ten to fifteen feet in height, many of them were from twenty to thirty feet: their length was from twenty to one hundred yards. We saw several white whales in the open water, and a flock of white geese at the encampment, which were the first noticed on this coast. The rising of the wind from E.N.E. this afternoon was accompanied by an increase of temperature from 43 degrees to 53 degrees, and we felt a comfortable sensation of warmth, to which we had been strangers for the preceding month.

During the above run Augustus entertained us with an account, which he had learned from the two Esquimaux, respecting the Mountain Indians; the substance was as follows:--Seven men of that tribe had been to Herschel Island to trade with the Esquimaux, who showed them the different articles they had received from us, and informed them of our being still on the coast, and that our return by this route was not improbable. This intelligence they set off at once to communicate to the rest of their tribe, who, supposing that we should ruin their trade with the Esquimaux, resolved on coming down in a body to destroy us; and that they might travel with expedition, their wives and families were left behind. They came to the sea coast by the Mountain Indian River, opposite Herschel Island, and finding that we had not returned, but supposing it possible that we might pass them there, as they had no canoes to intercept us, they determined on travelling to the mouth of the Mackenzie, where they could conveniently subsist by fishing and hunting until our arrival. They had been informed of the manner in which we had been robbed by the Esquimaux at that place, and they formed a similar plan of operations. When our crews were wading and launching the boats over the flats in Shoal Water Bay, a few of them were to have offered their assistance, which they imagined would be readily accepted, as we should probably take them for Indians belonging to the Loucheux tribe, with whom we were acquainted. While pretending to aid us they were to have watched an opportunity of staving the boats, so as to prevent them from floating in the deeper channel, which runs close to the land near Pillage Point. The rest of the party, on a signal being given, were then to rush forth from their concealment, and join in the assault. They were, in pursuance of this plan, travelling towards the Mackenzie, when they discovered our tents; and it appeared that the two young men who brought us the intelligence, had been sent as an act of gratitude by an old Esquimaux, to whom we had given a knife and some other things, on the preceding day. After hearing the plans of the Indians, he called the young men aside and said to them, "These white people have been kind to us, and they are few in number, why should we suffer them to be killed? You are active young men, run and tell them to depart instantly." The messengers suggested that we had guns, and could defend ourselves. "True," said he, "against a small force, but not against so large a body of Indians as this, who are likewise armed with guns, and who will crawl under cover of the drift timber, so as to surround them before they are aware; run, therefore, and tell them not to lose a moment in getting away, and to be careful to avoid the flats at the mouth of the river by entering the western channel."

As the goods which the Mountain Indians exchange with the Esquimaux at Herschel Island, are very unlike those issued from any of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts, I conclude that they obtain them from the Russians; but the traders of that nation being prohibited by their government from supplying guns to any Indians, I am at a loss to account for these people having them;--perhaps, the prohibition only applies to the Esquimaux, or the people on the sea coast. That the Mountain Indians have fire-arms we learned, not only on the present occasion, but in our first interview with the Esquimaux, at Herschel Island.

The few general remarks which I have to offer, on the subject of a North-West Passage, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative; and here I shall only state, that we traced the coast, westward from the mouth of the Mackenzie, three hundred and seventy-four miles, without having found one harbour in which a ship could find shelter.

The distance travelled in the three months of our absence from Fort Franklin, amounted to two thousand and forty-eight statute miles, of which six hundred and ten were through parts not previously discovered.

I cannot close this account of our sea voyage without expressing the deep obligation I feel to Lieutenant Back for his cordial co-operation, and for his zealous and unwearied assiduity during its progress. Beside the daily delineation of the coast in the field book, the service is indebted to him for numerous drawings of scenery, as well as of the natives; and for an interesting collection of plants. My warmest thanks are likewise due to the men of my party, who met every obstacle with an ardent desire to surmount it, and cheerfully exerted themselves to the utmost of their power. Their cool, steady conduct is the more commendable, as the sea navigation was entirely novel to the whole, except the seamen Duncan and Spinks, and Hallom, the corporal of Marines. The Canadian voyagers, Felix and Vivier, first saw the ocean on this occasion.

The following Chapters contain the narrative of the proceedings of Dr. Richardson in his own words; and I embrace this opportunity of conveying my sincere thanks to him, to Mr. Kendall, and to their respective crews. I may be allowed to bear my testimony to the union of caution, talent, and enterprise in the former, which enabled him to conduct, with singular success, an arduous service of a kind so foreign from his profession and ordinary pursuits; and to the science and skill, combined with activity, of Mr. (now Lieutenant) Kendall, which must heighten the character he has already obtained for general ability and energy in his profession. I must not omit to state, that these officers describe the conduct of their crews to have been excellent.

ABSTRACT of the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake.

1826. Daily Date. Mean Wind and Weather. Situation. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- July. degs. 1 52.8 NNW, WNW, moderate, gloomy Fort Good Hope 2 58.3 West, fresh, clear } Mackenzie River, 3 50.3 WNW, fresh, clear } betwn lat. 67 deg. 4 55.8 West, SSW, N, light, gloomy } 28 min., & 60 deg. 5 53.7 SW, NE, moderate, gloomy, foggy } 53 min. N., longitude 6 45.1 NNW, ENE, fresh, moderate, rain } 130-1/2 deg. & 7 41.6 SE, moderate, clear } 136-1/2 deg. W. 8 } Not Mouth of the } regist'd. Mackenzie. 9 } Thermom. ENE, strong, fog and rain 10 } stolen by } Between the 11 } Esquimaux. } Mackenzie & 12 51.6 EbyN. fresh, gloomy } Herschel Isld. 13 53.3 Variable, fog and rain } lat 68 deg. 53 min. & 14 50.5 Calm, rain, ENE, moderate, clear } 60 deg. 34 min. N., 15 48.6 Calm, clear, NW, moderate, foggy } long. 136 deg. 19. min 16 47.3 SSE, moderate, snow, fog } & 139 deg. 5 min. W. 17 44.8 NW, North, moderate, hazy Herschel Island. 18 43.6 NW, moderate, clear } 19 43.4 NW, moderate, heavy rain and fog } 20 39.3 NW, fresh, fog } 21 51.3 East, SE, clear } 22 58.5 SE, light, clear } Between Icy Reef & 23 51.6 West, calm, East, clear } Herschel Island, 24 45.6 Calm, variable, clear } latitude 69 deg. 34 25 42.0 West, light, calm, foggy } min. & 69 deg. 44 26 44.3 Calm, NW, fog } min. N., longitude 139 27 41.4 West, NW, moderate, fog } deg. 5 min. and 141 28 43.2 ENE, light, gloomy } deg. 30 min. W. 29 41.6 ENE, strong, misty } 30 40.3 ENE, fresh, moderate, clear } 31 42.7 NE, moderate, clear, fresh and } ----- foggy } Mean 47.61 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Aug. 1 42.0 NE, gale, foggy } Between Icy Reef & 2 44.6 ENE, strong, moderate, clear } Flaxman's Island, lat. 3 44.1 ENE, moderate, clear } 69 deg. 44 min. & 70 4 40.7 East, moderate, clear } deg. 11 min. N., long. 5 42.6 Calm, WbyN, moderate } 141 deg. 30 min. & 145 6 43.2 Calm, ESE, light, clear } deg. 50 min. W. 7 42.8 ENE, fresh, clear _} 8 42.9 ENE, strong, fog } 9 41.6 NE, strong, fog } 10 39.5 ENE, strong, fog } Foggy Island, lat. 11 41.1 NE, moderate, fog } 70 deg. 16 min. N. 12 41.1 East, moderate, very foggy } longitude 147 deg. 13 41.6 NE, strong, foggy } 38 min. W. 14 41.3 ENE, NE, moderate, foggy } 15 38.1 NE, fresh, hazy }

ABSTRACT the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake.

1826. Daily Date. Mean Wind and Weather. Situation. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Aug. degs. 16 35.0 ENE, fresh, foggy } Return Reef, lat. 17 37.4 NE, gale, very foggy } 70 deg. 26 min. N. lg. 18 36.2 NE, strong, clear } 148 deg. 52 min. W. 19 36.4 NE, strong, foggy } Foggy 20 36.4 NE, fresh, foggy } Island. 21 35.7 NNE, North, moderate, clear } 22 37.6 North, NE, light, clear } Between Foggy Island & 23 41.0 Calm, clear } the Mouth of the 24 39.4 Calm, clear, foggy in the night } Mackenzie, lat. 70 25 41.2 Calm, fog, NE, light, ESE, strong} deg. 16 min. and 68 26 39.6 WNW, NW, heavy gale, snow, sleet } deg. 53 min. N. lon. 27 39.8 Calm, ESE, light, clear } 147 deg. 38 min. and 28 43.0 SW, strong, clear } 136 deg. 19 min. W. 29 52.5 SSW, heavy gale _} 30 45.6 NW, Heavy gale, rain } Mackenzie 31 42.4 Calm, SW, gloomy } River. ----- Mean 40.85 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Sept. 1 38.3 NW, gale, snow } 2 38.6 NW, strong, clear } 3 41.1 Calm, moderate, SE, clear } 4 41.3 SE, NW, moderate, clear } 5 45.9 SE, light, clear } 6 51.0 Variable, light, clear } 7 44.8 SE, light, NW, strong } 8 41.0 NW, strong, snow } 9 39.3 East, moderate, clear } 10 45.8 SE, light, clear } Mackenzie 11 45.8 NW, moderate rain } River. 12 37.3 NW, moderate, gloomy } 13 37.2 Calm, SE, light, clear } 14 37.9 ESE, moderate, clear } 15 42.7 Calm, moderate, fresh, gloomy } 16 44.5 Variable, light, gloomy } 17 36.9 Variable, moderate, rain } 18 29.4 NW, fresh, gloomy } 19 24.6 NW, moderate, gloomy } 20 29.2 ESE, fresh, clear } 21 31.1 ENE, fresh, clear Fort Franklin. ----- Mean 39.22 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- NOTE.--The thermometer used in this register, was compared with those in use at Fort Franklin during ten days after our return, and found to coincide with them.

FOOTNOTES:

I have recently learned, by letter from Captain Beechey, that the barge turned back on the 25th of August, having been several days beset by the ice. He likewise informs me, that the summer of 1827 was so unfavourable for the navigation of the northern coast of America, that the Blossom did not reach so high a latitude as in the preceding year; nor could his boat get so far to the east of Icy Cape, by one hundred miles. The natives, he says, were numerous, and, in some instances, ill-disposed.

DR. RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT OF THE EXPEDITION.