Part 35

When puppies are about three weeks old they should be taught to lap scalded milk (sweetened a little) by gently putting their noses into it. They will instinctively lick it off, and after a few lessons will soon lap eagerly. This is always a great relief to a nursing mother, especially where the pups are vigorous or the litter large. A little bread or rice added when they are about four weeks old will do them a vast deal of good. Remember always, if you want strong, healthy dogs, that as puppies they should be fed nutritious food.

Bitches in whelp and while nursing pups should be fed on a soft or mushy diet, such as soups, porridge, etc., as it produces more and better milk, and often prevents fevers.

If you accompany your dogs to a show, and they are not accustomed to the usual food given there, it is always best to give them scraps from a neighboring restaurant, as some dog-biscuits cause excessive purging. There, too, they frequently become very nervous, lose their appetites, and often take cold, resulting in fevers; so it is not a bad scheme during a show to give your setters, for instance, one grain powdered quinine twice a day (smaller or larger dogs in proportion) during the entire show and for some days after it is over. It has been tried with most beneficial results.

VALUE OF EXERCISE.

All dogs, whether large or small, should have exercise, and plenty of it, in order to aid digestion, keep the heart and lungs in good action, and thereby insure a good appetite. Puppies, as is natural to them, take plenty of exercise; but it is when they are grown up that care should be taken that they do not become sluggish and so pave the way to obesity, which tends to affect the coat, digestion, and general appearance. The small varieties will generally of themselves keep “on the go,” but mastiffs, setters, and such other large dogs are not always disposed to move about much of their own free will; hence make them the companions of your walks. It is twofold in its good results: it makes you understand each other better, and does the dog no end of good. Bitches in whelp should have plenty of gentle exercise.

WASHING AND GROOMING.

Do not wash your dogs too often, as it removes the natural oil and consequently the gloss, which is so much desired. Careful and daily brushing with a dandy-brush, followed by a rubbing down with mittens made of chamois leather, will keep a dog’s coat in wonderfully fine condition and for a long while. The hound gloves are found to be of great value with smooth-coated dogs, such as Great Danes, pointers, bull-terriers, etc. In the long-haired classes use a brush with one-and-a-half-inch bristles, and a comb with teeth very short and wide apart, not unlike a barber’s comb. When washing, best results are attained with pure Castile soap, and after rinsing off the dog then using the imported German green soft soap. The latter seems to restore the gloss, is better than using eggs, and does not leave the hair so dry. Don’t wash your dog within two hours after feeding, and when you do it, do it as quickly as possible, using lukewarm water. Exercise the dog freely after it has been well dried. Towels made of salt-sacks are the best for drying purposes.

Great care should be taken in washing Yorkshires and toy spaniels, as, their coats being soft, they hold the dampness even after they appear to be thoroughly dry. The best and safest mode is as follows: Place the dog in a little foot-tub of lukewarm water deep enough to reach to its elbows, and cover the body with soap-suds, never putting the soap on the coat. With a soft hair-brush of long bristles brush the hair with the suds, always brushing from the center downward, thus reaching all parts of the body, including the head. When the dog is cleaned gently force all the suds and water out by smoothing the hair as instructed in brushing, then lift it into another tub of clean lukewarm water and with a soft sponge rinse well. Stand the dog on a table, envelop the body in a soft towel or cloth, and gently press the hands over it until the water and moisture are all absorbed by the cloth. Never ruffle or rub the hair; simply smooth it.

Now with a comb of short and widely separated teeth comb out the hair, and with about three brushes, always kept dry by being laid before the fire, brush the hair till it is perfectly dry. Then lay the dog before the fire, where it will be very warm, thus insuring it from catching cold. Such prominent breeders as Senn, Burkhardt, et al., dry their dogs in an oven made especially for the purpose.

After the dog is thoroughly dried, brush it, let it run about the house for an hour or so, and then let it rest on a linen-covered cushion, which is far better than velvet or plush, as the coat does not adhere to it. A very little fine oil in the palm of the hand rubbed over the coat will generally restore the gloss after washing.

FLEAS.

The bane of a dog’s existence is fleas. They are especially troublesome to puppies, worrying them till they become fretful, causing them to irritate the skin and tear their coats through scratching, seeking relief from itching. In addition, where fleas are particularly numerous on a dog they will often so affect it that its appetite is impaired and its digestive organs affected by worriment.

Carbolic soaps will kill these pests, also destroy the hair if constantly used; therefore the greatest permanent relief is found in using a powder. The best results can be attained by taking the dog into the yard or street, dusting it thoroughly with P. D. Q. Compound Powder, rubbing it well into the skin, when both fleas and nits will cease to exist. It is not injurious either to the dog or its hair, and if used on furniture or carpets will prove equally efficacious.

KENNELING.

If you desire to kennel your dog out of doors, remember always that it can stand almost any amount of cold, provided its kennel is clean and dry and elevated about six inches above the ground. The elevation allows a free circulation of air and prevents the bottom of the kennel from getting damp and remaining so. The boards should be tongued and grooved so as to shut out all drafts. Provided always with clean, dry straw, the dog will thrive. Foul and damp bedding produces mange, rickets, distemper, rheumatism, etc. If possible avoid keeping the dog on chain, as it frets and irritates it and is very apt to sour its disposition.

PREPARING A DOG FOR EXHIBITION.

To show a dog “for all there is in him,” its coat should be in perfect condition, free from all dead hair, and in the form as called for in the standard pertaining to its special breed. The body should be round, the ribs well covered; and in sporting and large specimens the muscles should be well developed and hard. Where two exhibits about equal in points of conformation come together in the judging ring, the one shown in the best “condition” will receive the blue ribbon. Grooming in the smaller breeds is generally “nine points” toward conditioning.

TREATMENT OF THE DOG IN SICKNESS.

In sickness the patient should always receive the very kindest treatment and be spoken to very gently. Rough or harsh handling is peculiarly hurtful where affections are of a nervous character.

When exhaustion is very great, and the patient absolutely refuses to eat, soft, nutritious food should be forced down the throat by first placing it in the mouth, then closing the jaws gently yet firmly, and softly rubbing the windpipe with the hand, thus causing the patient to swallow. Strange to relate, almost any sick dog will eagerly eat meat which has been masticated by its attendant. Warmth and perfect quiet are great factors of a complete and early recovery.

When convalescent the patient should have soft, nourishing food (beef-tea and rice, etc.), and whenever meat is given it should be hashed or cut as fine as possible.

A little port-wine can always be given in this description of food with beneficial results. Food should be administered in small quantities and at short intervals.

BRUISES, SPRAINS, ETC.

Spirits of turpentine ” hartshorn Laudanum Rape-oil

Mix equal parts of above, forming a liniment, and anoint parts affected. Where an abrasion exists, touch it with friars’ balsam, and rub liniment around the broken skin, not on it.

BURNS.

Use equal parts of linseed-oil and lime-water, applying it freely and as soon after the accident as possible.

CANKER OF THE EAR.