Part 2

PUG Fawn 58 Black 59

RETRIEVER Black, curly-coated 60 Black, flat- or wavy-coated 62

ST. BERNARD Rough-coated 64 Smooth-coated 66

SCHIPPERKE 67

SETTER English 69 Gordon 71 Irish 73

SHEEP-DOG (Old English or Bobtail) 75

SPANIEL Blenheim 90 Clumber 77 Cocker 79 Field 81 Irish Water- 83 Japanese 85 King Charles 91 Prince Charles 89 Ruby 89 Sussex 87

TERRIER Airedale 93 Bedlington 95 Black-and-tan 97 Boston 99 Bull 101 Clydesdale 103 Dandie Dinmont 105 Fox (Smooth-coated) 107 Fox (Wire-haired) 109 Irish 110 Maltese 112 Paisley 103 Scottish 113 Skye 115 Toy 116 Welsh 117 White English 119 Yorkshire 121

WHIPPET 123

TREATMENT OF THE DOG IN HEALTH 124

TREATMENT OF THE DOG IN SICKNESS 130

TECHNICAL TERMS 138

BREEDERS’ DIRECTORY 140

PREFACE.

Stonehenge, Shaw, and others have at various times written exhaustive treatises on the dog, its care in health and sickness; and while there is no question but that they are invaluable to the owners of large kennels, I consider that they are too complex for the novice who owns but one or two dogs. They use very largely technical terms not thoroughly understood by the layman, while certain treatments prescribed are quite impracticable except where one has a kennel-man. Besides, I think not one of the above-named writers has ever told the novice what to avoid in selecting a puppy or a grown dog, or what good points to insist upon. Recognizing all these facts, and recalling how I strove twenty years ago to find some work that would aid me in my search for knowledge of the dog, I have concluded to write a short treatise concerning its origin, uses, and all things pertaining to it, that will aid the reader in learning its good points, and bad ones too, the proper scale of “points” that go to make up the perfect specimen, the treatment in health and sickness, and such other data as may be of value to him. Experience as a successful breeder and owner, and having won many prizes largely through “condition,” confirms me in the belief that I may perhaps be able to help a fancier in purchasing the proper kind of dog, or, if he already has one, to aid him in keeping it in health, to know its value, and how to properly show it (if he is so inclined), so that its faults may be hidden to the greatest degree, while its good points may become more pronounced.

Perfection does not exist in either man or beast, so we will strive to select that specimen which has the fewest and least noticeable faults, remembering always that in the large breeds there are ten good little ones where there is one good large one.

If this work shall have aided any lover of the dog in any direction desired, it shall have done its work. If it shall have failed, the public will surely be lenient in its criticism of

THE AUTHOR.

THE BULLDOG (ENGLISH).

BEAVER BROOK SULTAN (formerly Rustic Sultan).]

ORIGIN.—As bull-baiting existed as far back as 1209, the bulldog must have then existed, but its origin is unknown.

USES.—Formerly for baiting bulls, but of late years, since this “sport” has ceased to be indulged in, it is simply kept as a watchdog and for exhibition.

* SCALE OF POINTS, ETC.

Value. General appearance 10 Skull 15 Stop 5 Eyes 5 Ears 5 Face 5 Chops 5 Mouth 5 Neck and chest 5 Shoulders 5 Body 5 Back 5 Tail 5 Fore legs and feet 5 Hind legs and feet 5 Size 5 Coat 5 --- Total 100

NOTE.—An asterisk denotes that the “scale of points, etc.,” given are those adopted by the Specialty Club of that particular breed; the other “scale of points, etc.,” are from “Dogs of the British Isles” and Mr. Rawdon B. Lee.

GENERAL APPEARANCE.—The general appearance of the bulldog is that of a smooth-coated, thick-set, broad, powerful, and compact dog. Head massive, large in proportion to its size; face extremely short; muzzle broad, blunt, and inclined upward. Body short and well knit; limbs stout and muscular; hind quarters very high and strong, but lightly made in comparison with its heavy fore parts. The dog should convey the impression of determination, strength, and activity.

HEAD.—Very large, the larger the better; forehead flat, and skin about the head very loose, hanging in large wrinkles; frontal bones very prominent, broad, square, and high, causing a deep, wide groove between the eyes, called the stop, which should be broad and deep and extend up the middle of the forehead. Eyes set low in skull, as far from the ears as possible, round, very dark, almost black, and showing no white when looking forward. Ears set high, small and thin, “rose-ear” preferred. Face short as possible, with skin deeply wrinkled; muzzle short, broad, turned upward, and very deep from corner of eye to corner of mouth. Nose very large, broad, and black, deeply set back, almost between the eyes; nostrils large, wide, and black, with well-defined straight line between them. Flews thick, broad, pendent, and very deep, hanging over lower jaw at sides (not in front). Teeth should show when mouth is closed; jaw broad, massive, square, and tusks wide apart; lower jaw projects in front of upper, and turns up, with six small front teeth between tusks in an even row. Teeth strong and large.

NECK.—Very deep, thick, and strong, well arched, with much loose skin at throat.