Part 18

Camp 48. Beautiful cool breeze from east-south-east; one native seen by Palmer (who was behind with the bullocks) running the tracks of the horses and camels, but when he saw Palmer he was off at full speed; it is strange we don't fall in with more of them in a country where there appears to be lots of food and water for them; started on bearing of 330 degrees, at 120 yards crossed a partially dry lagoon, at a quarter of a mile another, then splendid open forest, well timbered and grassed; at two and a quarter miles struck a creek flowing about 20 degrees north of east, deep sandy bed, no water, followed it down for one mile bearing 70 degrees and crossed, not being able to get up the opposite banks being so abrupt; although there is no water here no doubt from the look of the creek there is abundance both above and below, dead palm tree branches amongst the creek-wash; bearing of 330 degrees through splendid open forest and well grassed; at one mile crossed the same creek flowing to north of west, at three and a quarter miles struck it again and crossed it flowing to north of east, and just in a turning to north, still no water in its bed, at three and three-quarter miles struck it again but did not cross it, it appearing to bear to north-east out of our tracks; bearing of 290 degrees one mile, creek on right hand; bearing of 330 degrees five miles; then bearing of 322 1/2 degrees for one and three-quarter miles; bearing of 330 degrees three miles over open plains with a few shrubs occasionally, came to a small creek flowing to north of east, plenty of water; distance travelled seventeen and three-quarter miles; the grass on all the very open country was very dry and little substance in it, along the large creek passed and crossed various times reeds first met with; the large creek when last seen was bearing to west of north a long distance off, beyond an open plain; the creek I am now upon divides into several branches just here, which makes this one so small. Shot a new bird--dark grey, large tail, something like a pheasant in its flight; it always starts from the ground and settles awkwardly on the trees, its tail appearing a nuisance to it; the specimen shot is too much torn for preservation. The days now are very warm and the nights very agreeable. Short as the time is since they must have had the rain here it is astonishing how it has dried up in many places. The large creek crossed yesterday I have called the William after a young friend of mine.

Friday, May 2.

Camp 49. Beautiful morning; wind south-south-west. Bearing 330 degrees over a plain and at three miles crossed a watercourse flowing east; at three and three-quarter miles crossed another with plenty of water on right hand flowing to north of east; at seven and three-quarter miles came to and crossed a narrow deep creek, plenty water, about fifty yards wide, and have named it the Dugald, flowing north-north-east; small ranges visible at crossing this creek; beyond a plain at south-west; nice open forest before crossing this creek; at ten and a quarter miles over small stony plain, or rather bald hill, as it ascends and descends; came to and crossed a box and gum small watercourse; dry at crossing; first part over plain and latter part over myall forest undulations; at twelve and three-quarter miles came to irregular small creeks flowing to north-north-east, plenty of water; at eighteen miles came to a small creek from the ridges on our left with sufficient water for all useful purposes. From the last creek, undulations of fair and spinifex country; and slopes of ridges covered with spinifex (slopes to northward). At this creek there are a number of beautiful shady trees, leaves about four or five inches broad and from five to six inches long; besides gums and various other trees. Spinifex on both sides of the creek down to its edge. A hill of no great height ahead of us in our course for tomorrow. Saw plenty of turkey.

Saturday, May 3.

Camp 50. Fleecy clouds; wind east-south-east, blew pretty strong towards morning. Started on bearing of 330 degrees; for first three miles over spinifex ridge then small grass flat and another small spinifex ridge; at four miles over a good-sized plain (drainage all towards south and west towards heavy timber--where there is I suppose a large creek or river from the south) and across a small spinifex stony range. Cleared it at twelve and a quarter miles, following along the slopes of the hills, drainage west and north; at fourteen miles came to a watercourse, drainage north, abundance of water; followed along numerous watercourses both on right and left with plenty of water, and along what is here the principal creek--not so much water in it although it is better defined. Camped at sixteen miles. The feed on the open ground is as dry as tinder and not at all of first-class quality, the only green feed being about the creek and watercourses. A great abundance of those fine shady broad-leaved trees; they would be a great ornament in a park; it bears an abundance of seed but not ripe at present although I have taken some of it. Very sultry.

Sunday, May 4.

Camp 51. Mild night and morning. Our small stock of sheep got out of the fold in the night and half of them are missing this morning; I hope they may be got. Sky a good deal overcast. Wind east. I am glad that the missing sheep, after a little looking for, were found close by; the loss of them would have deprived us of at least seven days' food, which would be no light matter in a country where we seldom can even shoot a duck, much less sufficient for all the party who are now, I am happy to say, in excellent health. As this creek--which I have called Davis Creek after one of the party--bears a good deal on my course of yesterday, and has a good many irregularities near the bank which make it rough travelling, I have changed my course to north-west or 315 degrees; at one mile cleared the creek although it keeps pretty close on my present course and appears to be hemmed in on the right by the last ridge I crossed yesterday; then over plains and belts of myall gum; at five and three-quarter miles crossed a small creek flowing northward over similar country, but more sound; at ten and a half miles crossed a couple of small creeks flowing northward (the natives burning a short distance on our left); then over a variety of fair open country and a small portion of very thick and scrubby myall forest; then over spinifex ridge; then over well grassed tablelands for several miles; then over pretty thickly timbered spinifex rise of considerable length; and lastly for the last five miles over plains, light belts of timber here and there; got to a creek with sufficient water at twenty-seven and three-quarter miles. Long day, rather; did not see a drop of water the whole way, but I fancy we could have had what we desired at the early part of the day but we did not require it. The sheep and bullocks got to camp about 8 o'clock p.m., an astonishing journey for the poor little fellows; they are now, with the constant travelling and the long coarse grass, falling off in condition, but had they the feed they were accustomed to they would be much better; as it is they are far from poor--kidneys well-covered yet and fairish caul fat.

Monday, May 5.

Camp 52. Mild night with dew and calm, still morning; very cloudy and rainy-like to north and south of east. Heard a native wailing for some lost friend or relation during the night but as yet have seen none of them, although they were burning on left of our track yesterday within two miles. This creek comes from southward and flows to west of north considerably; it is well defined with box timber, but not at all deep; it appears more like a side creek to a larger stream. There is here a considerable plain on both sides and as yet no main creek visible although I fancy there must be one, all the drainage yesterday being to left of our course, no doubt to meet some large creek to south and west. Started on bearing of 315 degrees; crossed the creek obliquely at starting; then over a plain; at three and a quarter miles into a mulga forest, or rather belts of it, and amongst which there was at three and a quarter miles a swamp with water; then over plains and a gentle rise, thinly interspersed with small lots of shrubs and thin belts of timber (light); at thirteen and a half miles to a watercourse, sufficient water for our use, although rather opaque, but we can easily put up with that once in a way. I have made the journey short today in consequence of yesterday's one being so long. At the conclusion of today's stage from my calculations it places me exactly on Gregory's track, twenty miles east of where he crossed the Leichhardt River. I hope in reality it may be so, but I am hardly sanguine enough to expect it, taking everything into consideration--bad time-keeping watch and nothing to go by but the guess of your horse's pace.

Tuesday, May 6.

Camp 53. Dull morning, cloudy, wind south-south-west. A vast number of galahs, corellas, macaws, cockatoo parrots, hawks, and crows here. Started on bearing of 310 degrees over alternate plains and through belts of small timber. At seven miles passed swampy country where some heavy belts of timber are to the right of course. A great number of birds; water I am sure could be had if required; over alternate plains and strips of forest as before. At seventeen and three-quarter miles came to a native camp near swamp (water). Saw two of them in the distance some few miles further, but they scampered off and I did not go after them. Over similar country, latterly more open and even. At twenty-two and a half miles struck the Leichhardt River at what appears an island. Plenty of deep water; banks too precipitous for the animals to water. Followed down it bearing 330 degrees for two and a half miles and came to a bend of the river. Good sound watering-place; shingly and sandy beach for about a mile. Camped near the upper end of it. Hodgkinson caught a small fish; large one seen but not caught. It is a splendid river and from bank to bank is from 150 to 180 yards where we are encamped; but the water is here and for nearly a mile confined to a space of fifteen to twenty yards. Here on the western side, and a little further in at a crossing-place on the eastern side where it is still running a nice little stream, stony bottom, and only a couple or three yards wide.

Wednesday, May 7.

Camp 54. Very dull morning and sultry; every appearance of rain, sky perfectly overcast. Started down bed of river on east side on bearing of 37 degrees for one and one-eighth miles; crossed; a quarter of a mile on bearing of 220 degrees; bearing 260 degrees for one mile, following along the western banks of river, where it is full of sand and timber, and fully 500 yards wide; bearing 282 degrees, still along the banks for half a mile; then bearing of 310 degrees as the river goes suddenly off north and eastward; one mile on last bearing through, since crossing river, pretty open forest land; on bearing of 352 degrees at one and a quarter miles came to a fine lagoon or swamp with plenty of water and green grass; bearing of 352 degrees, at half a mile further crossed a deep dry creek going west to or by the swamp, at one and a half miles further came to and crossed a deepish creek from the south and west, sandy bottom (water); at one and three-quarter miles further struck the river, plenty of fresh water, and good crossing if necessary; at two and three-quarter miles further came to a nice lagoon, plenty of water and feed, river apparently some distance off, on the right; at seven and three-quarter miles further over open forest and plains with light timber. Seeing no chance of water ahead changed course for the Leichhardt; bearing of 109 1/2 degrees for 3 and one-third miles to river; crossed it and camped in the sandy bed; lots of stones for the last two miles and stony about the riverbank.

Thursday, May 8.

Camp 55. Strong south breeze, all appearance of rain blown away. Started on bearing of 355 degrees, water in the way; at one mile, between the start and that, there were stones and a little spinifex; then over open plains, small belts of clumps of small trees; halted at nine and a half miles; water quite sufficient for our use. I never saw such flights of Sturt's pigeons--at times completely darkening the ground over which they flew--a vast body of them seem to be wending their way to north-west from south-east, but vast numbers are here on the plains notwithstanding; natives burning on the Leichhardt in all directions, and one or two fires towards the Albert; took Middleton with me to ascertain what kind of country there is between camp and coast. On bearing of 355 degrees at six miles came to and crossed a creek, plenty of water, flowing to north-north-east; at sixteen and a half miles struck a creek with heavy box and gum timber, and water where we struck it in small lagoons and side creeks. Camped; natives burning ahead of us and a little east. A great portion of the country we have come over from camp is inundated and has now coarse grass and reeds. This creek flows here about north; south of this it comes more to the north-north-east.

Friday, May 9.

Middleton and I still out; party in camp. Started on bearing of 40 degrees; wind strong, south; at three and a half miles struck the creek, now a very considerable size and flowing to the eastward and a little south; followed it for a quarter of a mile, keeping it on the left on bearing of about 110 degrees, and crossed it at a long grassy flat; in its bed native wurlies between where we first struck it and crossed it; bearing of 40 degrees, long deep reach of water, banks well defined; bearing of 40 degrees, at three-quarters of a mile, creek, recrossed same on a bed of lava, all rent, abundance of water; at five and a half miles further struck the Leichhardt, its bed vast sheets of stones--rocks and small stones opposite side, lower down--the water in its bed is about or upwards of 150 yards wide; at two miles, bearing of about 210 degrees, struck the river at a stony and rocky fall and went westward half a mile to avoid the bend; struck river again at three miles on same course as above; then at four miles struck the river, water in its full width now upwards of 250 yards, a splendid-looking place, and lined on its banks with splendid timber of various kinds, with a variety of palms, etc.; then to the southward of south-west for between six and eight miles, but the rugged banks were so intricate that it was impossible to calculate the distance correctly; in a great many places, half a mile from the riverbanks, the plains drop off precipitously from three to ten feet, and slope off in undermined deep earthy creeks, finishing at last in deep reedy creeks close to the river; water in nearly all the side creeks and compelled us to keep out, but sometimes we were caught in them, thinking the timber we were advancing to was a lagoon or belt of timber, and then we were compelled to go round it; then cross a very fine creek running into the river the same, I believe, we crossed yesterday about six miles from camp on our outward course. From this to our camp I make out about thirteen miles on a bearing of about 200 degrees; got to camp about 8 p.m., for the last seven miles guided by a roman candle shot off at the camp. Fireworks are most useful in expeditions of this kind as in many cases some of our party have been guided up to camp near midnight.

Saturday, May 10.

Camp 56. Very cold during the night; in the morning wind south-east but beautiful weather. Started on bearing of 20 degrees over land subject to frequent inundations, with reeds thinly scattered over it and narrow belt of small timber. At twelve miles came to and crossed the creek seen on our way out on Thursday afternoon last, about six miles from camp (56 the camp). At thirteen miles struck a lagoon, then another, and another at fourteen and a quarter miles, all of which have abundance of water; at the last of which I encamped, excellent feed. I forgot to mention that yesterday on return to camp from first striking in Leichhardt's River I observed apparently a native firing the grass a short distance on my right. I made towards it and saw one coming steadily towards us, still spying us, retreated at full speed; as I had some fish-hooks and line I was determined to pull him or her up. Started off and overtook what turned out to be a gin and her piccaninie, and had a load of something, which in her retreat she dropped. She screamed and cooeed and set fire to the grass all around us to endeavour to get rid of us, but all to no purpose. I held out to her a fish-hook but she would not take them to look at even, but busied herself screaming and firing the grass; upon which I got off the horse and approached her. She immediately lifted up her yam-stick in the position the men throw their spears, and prepared to defend herself, until at last she quieted down on observing the fish-hook, and advanced a step or two and took it from me, evidently knowing the use of it. I then gave her a line and another hook, and by signs explained to her that I would return in the direction the day following. She wished me to understand something, holding up four of her fingers, but what she meant I could not guess. I tried to make out from her how far the coast was, making motions as if paddling a canoe, but could not get any information; as soon as we were clear off she set to work to make an immense smoke to attract the notice of her people to give them the news. This afternoon three of the party went over east-south-east about three-quarters of a mile to the river and caught about a dozen fish of small size and three different sorts, and a turtle about a foot long. The river during the day has almost always been in sight from thirty six miles off till crossing the creek, when it was not more than one mile off.

Sunday, May 11.

Camp 57. Could not have finer weather for travelling; abundance of feed, though on anything like high ground it has shed its seed and is now dry; plenty of good water as yet and fair feed round it generally. Lagoons wooded round generally with rusty gum, box, and white gum; wind east-south-east and pleasant. Started to clear some broken slopes ahead towards the river on bearing of 345 degrees. At two miles over plains came to and crossed a creek running into the river about a mile off; at two and a quarter miles changed course to 9 degrees, over open country--generally sloping to north-east from river with plenty of water on each side; at six and three-quarter miles struck the river at the falls. Messenger overtook me to say that one of the bullocks we had been using for the pack could not be brought on so determined to kill and jerk him; and went west half a mile on a small creek with running water and where the feed was better and more green than on the river. The bullock was got to camp about evening and slaughtered; plenty of guardfish, swordfish, and sharks under the falls, which are about fifty to sixty feet high with no current. Deep water above and below, and water oozing through the fissures of the rock which appears a sort of burnt limestone and indifferent agate. Found an eatable fruit on a handsome tree of the palm kind.

Monday, May 12.

Camp 58. Wind south-south-west; not an ounce of fat upon the bullock; won't take so long to jerk. I started out today to examine the country ahead, taking with me Middleton and Poole. At one mile over plain 5 degrees; changed course to 355 degrees; at five and a half miles struck the river and changed course to 285 degrees; at five-sixths of a mile struck and crossed creek from south to river; at two and five-sixths miles crossed smaller one from same direction; at a quarter of a mile further changed course to 340 degrees; at eleven and three-quarter miles over very bad travelling country, plains subject to much inundation, to a creek running into the river with splendid water and feed; at twelve and a half miles came to the river, with an immense sand-spit opposite; appears to be within the influence of the sea and is about 600 yards wide and dry half across. A number of pelicans up some distance; water either brackish a little or with some other peculiarity about it. Started for apparently another bend of the river, on bearing of 329 degrees. One and three-quarter miles saw a lagoon, on the left ahead; and as the horses are tired will bear for it and turn them out. Course 282 degrees, three-quarters of a mile; abundance of water and feed; lots of geese, ibis, ducks, and spoonbills. North three-quarters of a mile from this is the river, about 500 yards wide, treeless on the west bank and cliffs about twenty to thirty feet high, all round an immense sweep; sandy beach opposite, within the influence of the sea, a rise and fall of four feet observed--and at high-water a little brackish. Caught a few fish; the only thing we had for supper; would have done well had there been sufficient of them.

Tuesday, May 13.

Started on bearing of 330 degrees for a distant point like river timber which turned out to be a small hill or ridge with spinifex; a lagoon on the left at its base; struck it at five miles. At five and a half miles changed course to 355 degrees; at ten miles first part over firm, small, stony plains, good country; then at four miles crossed a salty timberless creek; and then over a succession of salt swampy flats with grassy plots intervening. Middleton's mare Counterfeit knocked up and he had to stay with her. I and Poole went on on a bearing of 355 degrees still; at two miles came to a mangrove creek; at two and a quarter miles the banks of the Albert River; salt arm, from half to three-quarters of a mile broad. Returned to Middleton and started back for the Leichhardt River on bearing of 110 degrees to camp, as soon as we could get water and feed, to endeavour to get the mare back to camp or part of the way. On bearing of 110 degrees for about four miles, first part over salt swamps; passed a long rocky lagoon full of water and half a mile long from north to south, and several other smaller ones between that and the river; mangrove banks in all the flat parts. Banks on this side treeless; country much burnt up. Top tide at least five hours earlier than when we camped last night; caught a few fish--in all about enough for one but had to do for the three of us. Rise and fall of river somewhere about five feet.

Wednesday, May 14.

Wind south; was very cloudy during the night and this morning; mosquitoes very troublesome during the night. Bearing homewards 170 to 215 degrees for the first eight or ten miles, leaving Poole and Middleton to get on to our first camp till I bring on the party on the morrow. Got to camp myself a little after sundown, and to my disgust found all the camels astray and Bell and Davis in search of them.

Thursday, May 15.