CHAPTER V.. Hives and Boxes

HIVES AND BOXES

An early choice among the innumerable hives is of course demanded; and here let me state with emphasis, that none of the standard hives are now covered by patents, so let no one buy rights. Success by the skillful apiarist with almost any hive is possible. Yet, without question, some hives are far superior to others, and for certain uses, and with certain persons, some hives are far preferable to others, though all may be meritorious. As a change in hives, after one is once engaged in apiculture, involves much time, labor and expense, this becomes an important question, and one worthy earnest consideration by the prospective apiarist. I shall give it a first place, and a thorough consideration, in this discussion of practical apiculture.

BOX-HIVES.

I feel free to say that no person who reads, thinks, and studies--and success in apiculture can be promised to no other--will ever be content to use the old box-hives. In fact, thought and intelligence, which imply an eagerness to investigate, are essential elements in the apiarist's character. And to such an one a box-hive would be valued just in proportion to the amount of kindling-wood it contained. A very serious fault with one of our principal bee-books, which otherwise is mainly excellent in subject matter and treatment, is the fact that it presumes its readers to be box-hive men. As well make emperors, kings, and chivalry the basis of good government, in an essay written for American readers. I shall entirely ignore box-hives in the following discussions, for I believe no sensible, intelligent apiarists, such as read books, will tolerate them, and that, supposing they would, it would be an expensive mistake, which I have no right to encourage, in fact, am bound to discourage, not only for the benefit of individuals, but also for the art itself.

To be sure of success, the apiarist must be able to inspect the whole interior of the hive at his pleasure, must be able to exchange combs from one hive to another, to regulate the movements of the 'bees: by destroying queen-cells, by giving or withholding drone-comb, by extracting the honey, by introducing queens, and by many other manipulations to be explained, which are only practicable with a movable-frame hive.

MOVABLE-COMB HIVES.

There are, at present, two types of the movable-comb hive in use among us, each of which is unquestionably valuable, as each has advocates among our most intelligent, successful and extensive apiarists. Each, too, has been superseded by the other, to the satisfaction of the person making the change. The kind most used consists of a box, in which hang the frames which hold the combs. The adjacent frames are so far separated that the combs, which just fill them, shall be the proper distance apart. In the other kind, the frames are wider than the comb, and when in position are close together, and of themselves form two sides of a box. When in use, these frames are surrounded by a second box, without a bottom, which, with them, rests on a bottom board. Each of these kinds is represented by various forms, sizes, etc., where the details are varied to suit the apiarist's notion. Yet, I believe that all hives in present use, worthy of recommendation, fall within one or the other of the above named types.

THE LANGSTROTH HIVE.

This (Fig. 29) is the hive most in use among Americans and Britons, if not among all who practice improved apiculture. It is stated that the late Major Munn was first to invent this style of hive. He states (see Bevan, p. 37) that he first used it in 1834. But, as suggested by Neighbour in his valuable hand-book, the invention was of no avail to apiarists, as it was either unknown, or else ignored by practical men. This invention also originated independently with Rev. L. L. Langstroth, who brought it forth in 1851, so perfect, that it needed scarce any improvement; and for this gift, as well as his able researches in apiculture, as given in his invaluable book, "The Honey-Bee," he has conferred a benefit upon our art which cannot be over-estimated, and for which we, as apiarists, cannot be too grateful. It was his book--one of my old teachers, for which I have no word of chiding--that led me to some of the most delightful investigations of my life. It was his invention--the Langstroth hive--that enabled me to make those investigations. For one, I shall always revere the name of Langstroth, as a great leader in scientific apiculture, both in America and throughout the world. His name must ever stand beside that of Dzierzon and the elder Huber. Surely this hive, which left the hands of the great master in so perfect a form, that even the details remain unchanged by many of our first bee-keepers, should ever bear his name. Thus, though I prefer and use the size of frame first used, I believe, by Mr. Gallup, still I use the Langstroth hive. (See Appendix, page 287).

CHARACTER OF THE HIVE.

The main feature of the hive should be simplicity, which, would exclude doors, drawers, and traps of all kinds. The body should be made of good pine or white-wood lumber, one inch thick, thoroughly seasoned, and planed on both sides. It should be simply a plain box (Fig. 30), without top or bottom, and of a size and form to suit the apiarist. The size will depend upon our purpose. If we desire no comb-honey, or desire comb-honey in frames, the hive may contain 4,000 cubic inches. If we desire honey in boxes, it should not contain over 2,000, and may be even smaller. If the hive is to be a two-story one--that is, one hive above a similar hive below (Fig. 29)--I prefer that it should be eighteen inches long, twelve inches wide, and twelve inches deep, inside measure. If simply small frames or boxes are to be used above, I would have the hive at least two feet long. A three-fourths inch rabbet should be cut from the top of the sides or ends as the apiarist prefers, on the inside (Fig. 30, c).

The rabbet may equal a little more than one-half the thickness of the board. Heavy tin strips (Fig. 33), three-fourths of an inch wide, should be tacked to the side below the rabbet, so as to reach one-fourth of an inch above the shoulder. These are to bear the frames, and are convenient, as they prevent the frames from becoming glued to the hive. We are thus able to loosen the frames without jarring the bees. I would not have hives without such tin rabbets, though some apiarists, among whom is Mr. James Heddon, of this State, whose rank as a successful apiarist is very high, do not like them. The objection to them is cost, and liability of the frames to move when the hive is moved. But with their use we are not compelled to pry the frames loose, and are not so likely to irritate the bees, while making an examination of the contents of the hive, which arguments are conclusive with me.

Any one who is not a skilled mechanic, especially if he has not a buzz-saw, had better join the sides of his hives after the style of making common dry-goods boxes (Fig. 30). In this case, the sides not rabbeted should project by, else the corners will have to be stopped up where they were rabbeted.

Bevel-Gauge.]

The mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, and unite them by a miter-joint (Fig. 33). This looks a little better, otherwise is not superior to the other method. It is difficult to form accurate joints--and as everything about the hive should be ACCURATE and UNIFORM--this style is not to be recommended to the general apiarist. To miter with a hand-saw unless one is very skillful, requires a perfect miter-box, and, even then, much care is required to secure perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have only to make a carrier as follows: Take two boards (Fig. 31. a, b), each one foot in length, and dove-tail them together, as though with two others you meant to make a square box. Be sure that they form a perfect right-angle. Then bevel the ends opposite the angle, and unite these with a third board (Fig. 31, c), firmly nailed to the others. We thus have a triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make longitudinal slits (Fig. 31, d), so that this can be bolted firmly to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, and from thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge of this a narrow board (Fig. 31, e) should be nailed, which will project an inch above it. This will keep the board to be beveled in line with the carrier, and will retain the right angles. Of course the boards for the hive must be perfect rectangles, and of just the right length and width, before the bevels are cut.

Such a carrier (Fig. 31) I ordered for my Barnes' saw, from a cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints dove-tailed, and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50.

In sawing the ends and sides of the hive, whether by hand or with a buzz-saw, use should be made of a guide, so that perfect uniformity will be secured.

THE BOTTOM BOARD.

For a bottom board or stand (Fig. 32), we should have a single one-inch board (Fig. 32, b) just as wide as the hive, and four inches longer, if the bees are to enter at the end of the hive, and as long, and four inches wider, if the bees are to enter at the side. This is nailed to two pieces of two by four, or two by two scantling (Fig. 32, a, a). Thus the hive rests two or four inches from the ground. These scantlings should extend at one end eight inches beyond the board, and these projections be beveled from the edge of the board, to the lower outer corner of the scantling. Upon these beveled edges nail a board (Fig. 32, d), which shall reach from the edge of the bottom board to the ground. We thus have the alighting-board, whose upper edge should be beveled, so as to fit closely to the bottom board. If the hives are to be carried into a cellar to winter, this alighting-board (Fig. 31, d) had better be separate, otherwise it is more convenient to have it attached. It may be made separate at first, or may be easily separated by sawing off the beveled portion of the scantlings.

Should the apiarist desire his bees to enter at the side of the hive, the scantling (Fig. 32, a, a) should run the other way, and the alighting-board (Fig. 32, d) should be longer, and changed to the side. I have tried both, and see no difference, so the matter may be controlled by the taste of the apiarist.

For an opening to the hive (Fig. 32, c), I would bevel the middle of the edge of the bottom board, next to the inclined board. At the edge, this bevel should be three-quarters of an inch deep and four inches wide. It may decrease in both width and depth as it runs back, till at a distance of four inches, it is one-half an inch wide and five thirty-seconds of an inch deep. This may terminate the opening, though the shoulder at the end may be beveled off, if desired.

With this bottom board the bees are near the ground, and with the slanting board in front, even the most tired and heavily-laden will not fail to gain the hive, as they come in with their load of stores. In spring, too, many bees are saved, as they come in on windy days, by low hives and an alighting-board. No hive should be more than four inches from the ground, and no hive should be without the slanting alighting-board. With this opening, too, the entrance can be contracted in case of robbing, or entirely closed when desired, by simply moving the hive back.

Some apiarists cut an opening in the side of the hive, and regulate the size by tin slides or triangular blocks (Fig. 29); others form an opening by sliding the hive forward beyond the bottom board--which I would do with the above in hot weather when storing was very rapid--but for simplicity, cheapness and convenience, I have yet to see an opening superior to the above. I think, too, I am a competent judge, as I have at least a half-dozen styles in present use.

I strongly urge, too, that only this one opening be used. Auger holes about the hive, and entrances on two sides, are worse than useless. By enlarging this opening, we secure ample ventilation, even in sultry August, and when we contract the entrance, no bees are lost by finding the usual door closed.

Some of our best bee-keepers, as Messrs. Heddon, Baldridge, etc., prefer that the bottom board be nailed to the hive (Fig. 39). I have such hives; have had for years, but strongly object to them. They will not permit a quick clearing of the bottom board, when we give a cleansing flight in winter, or when we commence operations in spring, which, especially if there is a quart or more of dead bees, is very desirable. Nor with their use can we contract the opening in cold weather, or to stop robbing, without the blocks (Fig. 29), tins or other traps. Simplicity should be the motto in hive-making. The arguments in favor of such fastening are: Convenience in moving colonies, and in feeding, as we have not to fasten the bottoms when we desire to ship our bees, and to feed we have only to pour our liquids into the hives.

Of course, such points are not essential--only matters of convenience. Let each one decide for himself, which experience will enable him to do.

THE COVER OF THE HIVE.

The cover (Fig. 33, a) should be about six inches high, and like the lid of a trunk. The length and breadth may be the same as the body of the hive, and fit on with beveled edges (Fig. 33), the body having the outer edge beveled, and the cover the inner. If we thus join the cover and hive with a mitered-joint, we must not be satisfied with anything less than perfection, else in case of storms, the rain will beat into our hives, which should never be permitted. Such covers can be fastened to the hives with hinges, or by hooks and staples. But unless the apiarist is skilled in the use of tools, or hires a mechanic to make his hives, it will be more satisfactory to make the cover just large enough (Fig. 29) to shut over and rest on shoulders formed either by nailing inch strips around the body of the hive, one inch from the top, or else inside the cover (Fig. 29). If it is preferred to have a two-story hive, with the upper story (Fig. 33, b) just like the lower (Fig. 33, c), this (Fig. 53) may join the lower by a miter-joint, while a cover (Fig. 33, a) two inches high, may join this with a similar joint.

If the upper story shuts over the lower and rests on a shoulder (Fig. 29) it may still be made to take the same sized frame, by nailing pieces one-half an inch square to the corners, whose length shall equal the distance from the rabbet in the lower story to the bottom board. Now nail to these upright pieces, parallel to the rabbeted faces below, a three-eighths inch board as wide as the pieces are long. The top of these thin boards will take the place of the rabbet in the lower story. This style, which is adopted in the two-story hives as made by Mr. Langstroth (Fig. 29), will permit in the upper story the same frames as used in the lower story, while two more can be inserted. Upon this upper story a shallow cover will rest. Such covers, if desired, may be made roof-like (Fig. 34), by cutting end pieces, (Fig 34, b) in form of the gable of a house. In this case there will be two slanting boards (Fig. 34, a, a), instead of one that is horizontal, to carry off the rain. The slanting boards should project at the ends (Fig. 34, d), for convenience in handling. In such covers we need thin, narrow ridge-boards (Fig. 34, c), to keep all perfectly dry. These covers look neat, are not so apt to check, and will dry much quicker after a rain.

If we secure comb-honey in crates, and winter out-doors--in which case we shall need to protect in the Northern States--it will be convenient to have a box of the same general form as the main body of the hive, from six to eight inches deep, just large enough to set over the body of the hive and rest on shoulder-strips, and without top or bottom; this to have such a cover as just described. Such is the arrangement of Southard and Ranney, of Kalamazoo, which, on the score of simplicity and convenience, has much to recommend it.

In the above I have said nothing about porticos (Fig. 29). If hives are shaded as they should be, these are useless, and I believe that in no case will they pay. To be sure, they are nice for spider-webs, and a shady place in which bees may cluster; but such are inconvenient places to study the wondrous fabrics of the spider, even were he a friend of the bees, and the most successful apiarist will not force his bees to hang in idle clusters about the hive.

THE FRAMES.

The form and size of frames, though not quite as various as the persons who use them, are still very different. Some prefer large frames. I first used one ten by eighteen inches, and afterward a shallow frame about seven by eighteen (Fig. 29). The advantage claimed for large frames is that there are less to handle, and time is saved; yet may not smaller frames be handled so much more dexterously, especially if they are to be handled through all the long day, as to compensate, in part at least, for the number? The advantage of the shallow frame is, as claimed, that the bees will go into boxes more readily; yet they are not considered so safe for out-door wintering. This is the style recommended and used by Mr. Langstroth, which fact may account for its popularity in the United States. Another frame in common use, is one about one foot square. I use one eleven inches square. The reasons that I prefer this form are, that the comb seldom breaks from the frame, the frames are convenient for nuclei, and save the expense of constructing extra nucleus hives, and that these frames permit the most compact arrangement for winter and spring, and thus enable us to economize heat. By use of a division board, we can, by using eight of these frames, occupy just a cubic foot of space in spring, and by repeated experiments I have found that a hive so constructed that the bees always cover the combs during the early cold weather, always gives the best results. As the honey season comes on more can be added, till we have reached twelve, as many, I think, as will ever be needed for brood. This was the size of frame preferred by Mr. Gallup, and is the one used by Messrs. Davis and Doolittle, and many others of our most successful apiarists. That this size is imperative is, of course, not true; that it combines as many desirable points as any other, I think, is true. For apiarists who are not very strong, especially for ladies, it is beyond question superior to all others.

HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE FRAMES.

In this description, I shall suppose that the frames desired are of the form and size (Fig. 35) which I use. It will be easy, for any who may desire, to change the form at pleasure. For the top-bar (Fig. 35, a) of the frame, use a triangular strip twelve and three-quarter inches long, with each face of the triangle one inch across. Seven-eighths of an inch from each end of this, form a shoulder, by sawing from one angle to within one-fourth of an inch of the opposite face, so that when the piece is split out from the end, these projections shall be just one-fourth of an inch thick throughout. For the side pieces (Fig. 35, b, b), take strips eleven inches long, seven-eighths of an inch wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick. Tack with small brads the end of two of these strips firmly to the shoulder of the top-bar, taking pains that the end touches squarely against the projection. Now tack to the opposite ends or bottoms, the ends of a similar strip (Fig. 35, d) eleven and a half inches long. We shall thus have a square frame.

If comb-foundation is to be used, and certainly it will be by the enterprising apiarist, then the top-bar (Fig. 36, a) should be twelve and three-quarters inches by one-quarter by one inch, with a rectangular, instead of a triangular, projection below (Fig. 36, b), which should be one-fourth by one-eighth inch, the longest direction up and down. This should be entirely to one side of the centre, so that when the foundation (Fig. 36, c) is pressed against this piece it will hang exactly from the centre of the top-bar. If preferred, the bottom of the frame (Fig. 36, e) need not be more than half as wide or thick as described above.

The timber should be thoroughly seasoned, and of the best pine or white-wood. Care should be taken that the frame be made so as to hang vertically, when suspended on the rabbets of the hive. To secure this very important point--true frames that will always hang true--they should always be made around a guide.

Frame, also Cross-Section of Top-Bar.]

A BLOCK FOR MAKING FRAMES.

This may be made as follows: Take a rectangular board (Fig. 37) eleven and a quarter by thirteen and a half inches. On both ends of one face of this, nail hard-wood pieces (Fig. 37, e, e) one inch square and eleven inches long, so that one end (Fig. 37, g, g) shall lack one-fourth inch of reaching the edge of the board. On the other face of the board, nail a strip (Fig. 37, c) four inches wide and eleven and a quarter inches long, at right-angles to it, and in such position that the ends shall just reach to the edges of the board. Midway between the one inch square pieces, screw on another hard-wood strip (Fig. 37, d) one inch square and four inches long, parallel with and three-fourths of an inch from the edge. To the bottom of this, screw a semi-oval piece of hoop-steel (Fig. 37, b, b), which shall bend around and press against the square strips. The ends of this should not reach quite to the bottom of the board. Near the ends of this spring, fasten, by rivets, an inch strap (Fig. 37, a), which shall be straight when thus riveted. These dimensions are for frames eleven inches square, inside measure, and must be varied for other sizes.

To use this block, we crowd the end-bars of our frames between the steel springs (Fig. 37, b, b) and the square strips (Fig. 37, e, e); then lay on our top-bar and nail, after which we invert the block and nail the bottom-bar, as we did the top-bar. Now press down on the strap (Fig. 37, a), which will loosen the frame, when it may be removed, all complete and true. Such a gauge not only insures perfect frames, but demands that every piece shall be cut with great accuracy. And some such arrangement should always be used in making the frames.

The projecting ends of the top-bar will rest on the tins (Fig. 33), and thus the frame can be easily loosened at any time without jarring the bees, as the frames will not be glued fast, as they would in case they rested on the wooden rabbets. The danger of killing bees is also abolished by use of the tins.

When the frames are in the hive there should be at least a three-sixteenths inch space between the sides and bottom of the frames, and the sides and bottom of the hive. Even doubling this would do no harm; though a much wider space would very likely receive comb, and be troublesome. Frames that fit close in the hive, or that reach to the bottom, are very inconvenient and undesirable. To secure against this, our lumber must be thoroughly seasoned, else when shrinkage takes place our frames may touch the bottom-board.

The distance between the frames may be one-fourth of an inch, though a slight variation either way does no harm. Some men, of very precise habits, prefer nails or wire staples in the side of the frames, at top and bottom, which project just a quarter of an inch, so as to maintain this unvarying distance; or staples in the bottom of the hive to secure the same end. Mr. Langstroth so arranged his frames, and Mr. Palmer, of Hart, Michigan, whose neatness is only surpassed by his success, does the same thing. I have had hives with these extra attachments, but found them no special advantage. I think we can regulate the distance with the eye, so as to meet every practical demand, and thus save the expense and trouble which the above attachments cost.

COVER FOR FRAMES.

Nothing that I have ever tried is equal to a quilt for this purpose. It is a good absorbent of moisture, preserves the heat in spring and winter, and can be used in summer without jarring or crushing the bees. This should be a real quilt, made of firm unbleached factory, duck, or cambric--I have used the first with entire satisfaction for four years--enclosing a thick layer of batting, and hemmed about the edges. My wife quilts and hems them on a machine. The quilting is in squares, and all is made in less than fifteen minutes. The quilt should be a little larger than the top of the hive, so that after all possible shrinkage, it will still cover closely. Thus, when this is put on, no bees can ever get above it. When we use the feeder, it may be covered by the quilt, and a flap cut in the latter, just above the hole in the feeder, enables us to feed without disturbing the bees, though I place the feeder at the end of the chamber, wherein are the bees, and have only to double the quilt back when I feed. The only objection that I know to the quilt is, that the bees will fasten propolis, and even comb, between it and the frames, and this looks bad. A little care 'will make this a small objection. Mr. Langstroth used a board above the frames, which Mr. Heddon uses even now. Perhaps Mr. Heddon never used the quilts. Perhaps his love of order and neatness caused him to discard them. Still, I feel to thank Mr. A. I. Root for calling my attention to quilts.

DIVISION BOARD.

A close-fitting division board (Fig. 38) for contracting the chamber, is very important, and though unappreciated by many excellent apiarists, still no hive is complete without it. I find it especially valuable in winter and spring, and useful at all seasons. This is made the same form as the frames, though all below the top-bar--which consists of a strip thirteen inches long by one inch by three-eighths, and is nailed firmly to the board below--is a solid inch board (Fig. 38, b), which is exactly one foot square, so that it fits closely to the inside of the hive. If desired, the edges (Fig. 38, e, e) can be beveled, as seen in the figure. When this is inserted in the hive it entirely separates the chamber into two chambers, so that an insect much smaller than a bee could not pass from the one to the other. Mr. A. I. Root makes one of cloth, chaff, etc. Yet, I think few apiarists would bother with so much machinery. Mr. W. L. Porter, Secretary of the Michigan Association, makes the board a little loose, and then inserts a rubber strip in a groove sawed in the edges. This keeps the board snug, and makes its insertion easy, even though heat may shrink or damp may swell either the board or hive. I have not tried this, but like the suggestion.

The use of the division board is to contract the chamber in winter, to vary it so as to keep combs covered in spring, to convert the hive into a nucleus hive, and to contract the chamber in the upper-story of a two-story hive, when first adding frames to secure surplus comb-honey.

THE HUBER HIVE.

The other type of hives originated when Huber hinged several of his leaf or unicomb hives together, so that the frames would open like the leaves of a book; though it has been stated that the Grecians had, in early times, something similar.

In 1866, Mr. T. F. Bingham, then of New York, improved upon the Huber hive, securing a patent on his triangular frame hive. This, so far as I can judge, was the Huber hive made practical.

In 1868, Mr. M. S. Snow, then of New York, now of Minnesota, procured a patent on his hive, which was essentially the same as the hives now known as the Quinby and Bingham hives.

Soon after, the late Mr. Quinby brought forth his hive, which is essentially the same as the above, only differing in details. No patent was obtained by Mr. Quinby, whose great heart and boundless generosity endeared him to all acquaintances. Those who knew him best, never tire of praising the unselfish acts and life of this noble man. If we except Mr. Langstroth, no man has probably done so much to promote the interest and growth of improved apiculture in the United States. His hive, his book, his views of wintering, his introduction of the bellows-smoker--a gift to apiarists--all speak his praise as a man and an apiarist.

The fact that the Bingham hive, as now made, is a great favorite with those who have used it, and is pronounced by so capable a judge as Mr. Heddon, to be the best movable-comb hive in existence, that Mr. Quinby preferred this style or type of hive, that the Quinby form is used by the Hetherington brothers. Captain J. E., the prince of American apiarists, and O. J., whose neatness, precision, and mechanical skill are enough to awaken envy; that the Russell hive is but a modification of the same type, are surely enough to awaken curiosity and bespeak a description.

Frame, Bottom-Board and Frame-Support of Quinby Hive.]

The Quinby hive (Fig. 39), as used by the Hetherington brothers, consists of a series of rectangular frames (Fig. 39) twelve by seventeen inches, outside measure. The ends of these frames are one and a half inches wide and half an inch thick. The top and bottom one inch wide and half an inch thick. The outer half of the ends projects one-fourth of an inch beyond the top and bottom. This projection is lined with sheet iron, which is inserted in a groove which runs one inch into each end of the end-pieces and are tacked by the same nails that fasten the end-bars to the top and bottom-bars. This iron at the end of the bar bends in at right-angles (Fig. 39, a, a), and extends one-fourth of an inch parallel with the top and bottom-bars. Thus, when these frames stand side by side, the ends are close, while half-inch openings extend between the top and bottom-bars of adjacent frames. The bottom-bars, too, are one-fourth of an inch from the bottom-board. Tacked to the bottom-board, in line with the position of the back end-bars of the frames is an inch strip of sheet-iron (Fig. 39, b, b) sixteen inches in length. One-third of this strip, from the front edge back, is bent over so it lies not quite in contact with the second third, while the posterior third receives the tacks which hold it to the bottom-board. Now, when in use this iron flange receives the hooks on the corners of the frames, so that the frames are held firmly, and can only be moved back and sidewise. In looking at the bees we can separate the combs at once, at any place. The chamber can be enlarged or diminished simply by adding or withdrawing frames. As the hooks are on all four corners of the frames, the frames can be either end back, or either side up. Boards with the iron hooks close the sides of the brood cavity, while a quilt covers the frames.

The entrance (Fig. 39, e) is cut in the bottom-board as already explained, except that the lateral edges are kept parallel. A strip of sheet-iron (Fig. 39, d) is tacked across this, on which rest the ends of the front end-bars of the frames which stand above, and underneath which pass the bees as they come to and go from the hive. A box, without bottom and with movable top, covers all, leaving a space from four to six inches above and on all sides between it and the frames. This gives chance to pack with chaff in winter, and for side and top storing in sections or boxes in summer.

Frames and Bottom-Board of the Bingham Hive.]

The Bingham hive (Fig. 40) is not only remarkably simple, but is as remarkable for its shallow depth; the frames being only five inches high. These have no bottom-bar. The end-bars are one and a half inches wide, and the top-bar square. The nails that hold the end-bars pass into the end of the top-bar, which is usually placed diagonally, so that an edge, not a face, is below; though some are made with a face below (Fig. 40, f), to be used when comb is transferred. The frames are held together by two wires, one at each end. Each wire (Fig. 40, a) is a little longer than twice the width of the hive when the maximum number of frames are used. The ends of each wire are united and placed about nails (Fig. 40, b, b) in the ends of the boards (Fig. 40, c, c) which form the sides of the brood-chamber. A small stick (Fig. 40, a) spreads these wires, and brings the frames close together. A box without bottom and with movable cover, is placed about the frames. This is large enough and high enough to permit of chaff packing in winter and spring. The bottom-board may be made like the one already described. Mr. Bingham does not bevel the bottom-board, but places lath under three sides of the brood-chamber, the lath being nailed to the bottom-board--and then uses the blocks to contract the entrance (Fig. 40, g).

The advantages of this hive are, simplicity, great space above for surplus frames or boxes, capability of being placed one hive above another to any height desired, while the frames may be reversed, end for end, or bottom for top, or the whole brood-chamber turned up-side down. Thus, by doubling, we may have a depth of ten inches for winter.

The objection which I have found in the similar Russell hive, is danger of killing bees in rapid handling. In the Russell hive the side-bars are halved together, and held in place by ingeniously contrived wire hooks. There are no bottom-bars. I have used none of these except the Russell. They can be manipulated with rapidity, if we care not how many bees we crush. It hurts me to kill a bee, and so I find the Langstroth style more quickly manipulated. Mr. Snow, too, who was the first to make the above style of hive, has discarded it in favor of the Langstroth. His objection to the above, is the fact that the various combs are not sure to be so built as to be interchangeable. Yet that such apiarists as those above named prefer these Huber hives, after long use of the other style, is certainly not without significance.

* * * * *

APPARATUS FOR PROCURING COMB-HONEY.

Although I feel sure that extracted-honey will grow more and more into favor, yet it will never supersede the beautiful comb, which, from its exquisite flavor and attractive appearance, has always been, and always will be, admired and desired. So, no hive is complete without its arrangement of boxes, section-frames, and crates, all constructed with the view of securing this delectable comb-honey in the form that will be most irresistible.

BOXES.

These are for surplus comb-honey in the most salable form. They may be of any size that best suits the taste of the apiarist, and the pulse of the market.

It is well that the sides of these be of glass. Such (Fig. 41) may be made as follows: For top and bottom procure soft-wood boards one-fourth of an inch thick and of the size desired, one for the bottom and the other for the top of the box. Take four pieces half an inch square and as long as the desired height of the honey-box. In two adjacent sides of these saw grooves in which may slip common glass. These are for corner pieces. Now tack with small brads the corners of the bottom-board to the ends of these pieces, then slide in the glass, and in similar way tack the top-board to the other ends. Through the bottom-board holes may be bored so that the bees may enter. A similar box is made by A. H. Russell, of Adrian, Mich., except that tin forms the corners. These may be made to take from one to three combs, and are certainly very attractive. If made small and set in a crate so that all could be removed at once, they would leave little to be desired. The Isham box (Fig. 42) is essentially like the Russell; only the tin at the corners is fastened differently. Surely, all great minds do run in the same channel. Another form (Fig. 43) which I find very desirable, and which I used in California (where they were introduced by Mr. Harbison) more than ten years ago, is made as follows: Dress off common lath so that they are smooth, cut off two lengths the desired height of the box, and one the desired width; tack this last piece to the ends of the other two, and to the other end tack a similar strip only half as wide. We now have a square frame.

Place such frames side by side till a box is made of the desired length. To hold these together, we have now only to tack on either side one or two pieces of tin, putting a tack into each section, thus forming a compact box without ends. The end frames should have a whole piece of lath for the bottom, and grooves should be cut in the bottom and top laths, so that a glass may be put in the ends. Of course there is ample chance for the bees to enter from below. Now, by placing small pieces of comb, or artificial comb foundation, which ranks as a discovery with the movable-frame hive and honey-extractor, on the top of each frame (Fig. 43), the bees will be led to construct a separate comb in each frame, and each frame may be sold by the retail dealer separately, by simply drawing the tacks from the tins. Barker and Dicer, of Marshall, Michigan, make a very neat sectional honey-box, which is quite like the above, except that paper pasted over the frames takes the place of the tins. These, too, have wood separators as used and sold by the gentlemen named. The honey-boxes may be placed directly on the frames, or in case the queen makes trouble by entering them to deposit eggs--a trouble which I have seldom met, perhaps because I give her enough to do below--we can plaice strips one-fourth of an inch square between the frames and boxes. In case we work extensively for box honey, we should have a rack or crate so made that we can remove all the boxes at once; in which case to examine the bees we would not have to remove all the boxes separately.

SMALL FRAMES OR SECTIONS.

Honey in boxes, unless they consist of sections as just described, cannot compete with honey in small frames, in our present markets, and without doubt they will fall more and more into disfavor. In fact, there is no apparatus for securing comb-honey that promises so well as these sections. That they are just the thing to enable us to tickle the market is shown by their rapid growth in popular favor. Three years ago I predicted, at one of our State Conventions, that they would soon replace boxes, and was laughed at. Nearly all who then laughed, now use these sections. They are cheap, and with their use we can get more honey, and in a form that will make it irresistible.

REQUISITES OF GOOD SECTIONS

The wood should be white, the size small, from four to six inches square, the sections capable of being glassed, at least on the faces, not too much cut off from brood-chamber, cheap, easily made, and so arranged as to be put on or taken off the hive en masse.

DESCRIPTION.

The style of section which I think will soon replace all others, is easily made, as follows: For a section four inches square take a strip of clean, white veneer--cut from basswood, poplar or white-wood--such as is used to make berry-boxes, two inches wide and twenty inches long; for larger sections make it proportionally longer. Make a shallow cut every four inches at right-angles to the sides--though they will do this, if asked to, at the factory. Now with a chisel (Fig. 44) four inches long, with one-eighth inch projections at right-angles to the main blade, cut out sections on the opposite edges of the main strip--which will leave openings one-eighth inch by four inches, between the first and second shallow cut and the third and fourth. We now bend this around a square block (Fig. 45) which will just fill it, letting the ends over-lap, and drive through these over-lapping sections one or two small wrought brads on to an iron, (Fig. 45, b) set into the block, by which they will be clinched. Or, by using glue, we may dispense with the block. Now, if your market requires glassed sections, or if you wish to insert dividers, either tin or wood, glue posts one-fourth of an inch square, four in each section along the uncut sides one-eighth inch from the edges. The ends of these will just come flush with the gouged edges above and below. Now, by use of tins such as are used to fasten window-glass, these can be glassed, or if desired, each one can receive a tin or wooden separator.

If this gluing in of the pieces is thought too troublesome, we may still achieve the same end by using tin separators in our crates, and then glass our sections by cutting a square glass, just the size of the section, outside measure, and with heavy white paper paste two of these glass to the sections. This makes each section perfectly close, and is the method devised by Southard and Ranney for practice the coming season. A paste made of dextrine, tragacanth, or even flour, will answer to fasten the strips of paper, which need not be more than one inch wide. A little carbolic acid, or salicylic acid in solution, will keep the paste from souring.

Every apiarist can make these sections for himself, and thus save freight and profits of making. They are neat, very cheap--costing but two mills each--and are made strong by use of the glued posts. They are also light. Very soon our customers will object to buying wood and glass, if our unglassed sections of comb-honey are kept in close glassed crates.

The Hetherington brothers make a very neat section, as follows: The top and bottom are each two inches wide, of one-quarter inch white pine. These receive a groove one-eighth inch from the ends, which receives the sides, one inch wide and one-eighth inch thick, which is pressed through to a central position and glued. This section is five and a half inches square. They use wooden dividers (Fig. 46, a) one-eighth of an inch thick, as long as the section, but one inch less in height, so that below and above is a half-inch space, which permits the bees to pass readily from one section to another. These are held by a half-inch strip of tin (Fig. 46, b, b), which passes through a groove (Fig. 46, c) in the ends of the dividers, and reaches half an inch farther; then turns at right-angles and ends in a point (Fig. 46, b), which, when in use, sticks into the top or bottom pieces; and so the four points hold the dividers in place. When ready to sell, they insert half-inch glass in the grooves each side the narrow side-pieces, and with tins fasten glass on the faces, and have a very handsome section. I think this preferable to the Russell or Isham box or section, as the one-inch strip of wood covers the part of the comb where it is fastened to the sides, which is never attractive, while the rest is all glassed. Such sections were praised in New York and Cincinnati last season as very fine and neat; equal, if not superior, to all others.

A. I. Root prefers sections made as are children's toy-blocks, the sides fastened by a sort of mortise and tennon arrangement (Fig. 47). I have received from Mr. James Heddon a similar section, but neater and more finished, which is made in Vermont. These are too complex to be made without machinery, are no better for their fancy corners--in fact, they are not as strong as is desirable--and, as we cannot afford to purchase our apparatus when we can as well make it ourselves, I cannot recommend them for general use.

The Phelps-Wheeler-Betsinger sections (Fig. 48) are essentially the same. The top and bottom are a little more narrow than the sides, and are nailed to them. The Wheeler sections-invented and patented by Mr. Geo. T. Wheeler, Mexico, New York, in 1870--are remarkable for being the first (Fig. 52, K) to be used with tin separators (Fig. 52, M). Instead of making the bottoms one-quarter of an inch narrower for a passage, Mr. Wheeler made an opening in the bottom, as does Mr. Russell.

HOW TO PLACE SECTIONS IN POSITION.

There are two methods, each of which is excellent, and has, as it well may, earnest advocates--one by use of crates, the other by frames.

SECTIONS IN FRAMES.

I prefer this method, perhaps because I have used it most. These frames (Fig. 49) are made the same size as the frames in the brood-chamber, except that they are made of strips two inches wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick, though the bottom-bar is a quarter of an inch narrower, so that when two frames are side by side, there is one-fourth of an inch space between the bottom bars, though the top and side pieces are close together. The sections are of such a size (Fig. 50, K) that four, or six, or nine, etc., will just fill one of the large frames. Nailed to one side of each large frame are two tin strips (Fig. 50, t, t′) as long as the frame, and as wide into one inch as are the sections. These are tacked half an inch from the top and the bottom of the large frames, and so are opposite the sections, thus permitting the bees to pass readily from one tier of sections to another, as do the narrower top and bottom-bars of the sections, from those below to those above. I learned of such an arrangement of sections from A. I. Root.

Captain Hetherington tells me that Mr. Quinby used them years ago. The tin arrangement, though unlike Mr. Wheeler's (Fig. 52, M), would be readily suggested by it. It is more trouble to make these frames if we have the tins set in so as just to come flush with the edge of the end-bars of the frames, but then the frames would hang close together, and would not be so stuck together with propolis. These may be hung in the second story of a two-story hive, and just so many as to fill the same--my hives will take nine--or they can be put below, beside the brood-combs. Mr. Doolittle, in case he hangs these below, inserts a perforated division-board, so that the queen will not enter the sections and lay eggs. I used them very successfully last summer without division-boards, and neither brood nor pollen were placed in a single cell. Perhaps wider tins would prevent this should it occur. In long hives--the "New Idea"--which I find very satisfactory, after several years' trial, especially for extracted honey--I have used these frames of sections, and with the best success. The Italians entered them at once, and filled them even more quickly than other bees filled the sections in the upper story. In fact, one great advantage of these sections in the frames is the Obvious and ample passage-ways, inviting the bees to enter them. But in our desire to make ample and inviting openings, caution is required that we do not over-do the matter, and invite the queen to injurious intrusion. So we have Charybdis and Scylla, and must, by study, learn to so steer between, as to avoid both dangers.

SECTIONS IN RACKS.

These are to use in lieu of large frames, to hold sections, and are very convenient when we wish to set the sections only one deep above the brood-chamber. Though, if desired, we can place one rack above another, and so have sections two, and even three deep.

Southard and Ranney, of Kalamazoo, use a very neat rack (Fig. 51), in which they use the thin veneer sections which we recommend as superior to all others for the general apiarist. They have used these with excellent success, but without separators, which they wish to insert. Perhaps by taking out the board partitions (Fig. 51, B, B), and putting tin separators the other way across, they would accomplish their object. In this case, the ends of the adjacent sections would not be separated, and the width of the rack would just accommodate two, three, or four sections, to be governed by size of hive and sections. The sheet-iron rests (Fig. 51, H, H, H) which, with their bent edges, just raise the rack one-fourth of an inch from the brood frames, would then run the other way, and give the requisite strength. Thus, the tins would not be liable to bend, as they would if run the shorter way of the rack. The end-board, too (Fig. 51. A), would be a side-board, and the strips (Fig. 51, G, G), with the intervening glass, would be at the ends.

The Wheeler rack (Fig. 52) simply holds the sections, while each section is glassed separately.

Captain Hetherington sets a rack of sections above the frames, and stands sections one above the other on the side for side storing. Mr. Doolittle makes a rack by placing frames, such as I have described--except they are only half as high, and hold but two sections--side by side, where they are held by tacking a stick on top across each end of the row. He also places two tiers, two deep, at each end of the brood-chamber, if he desires to give so much room.

All apiarists who desire to work for comb honey which will sell, will certainly use the sections, and either adjust them by use of frames or crates.

FOOT-POWER SAW.

Every apiarist who keeps upwards of fifty colonies of bees, and makes apiculture a specialty, will find a foot power saw a very valuable apparatus.

I have now used the admirable combined foot-power saw of W. F. & John Barnes for a year, and find that it grows in value each month. It permits rapid work, insures uniformity, and enables the apiarist to give a finish to his work that would rival that of the cabinet-maker.

Those who procure such a machine should learn to file and set the saws, and should never run the machine when not in perfect order.