Life At Puget Sound: With Sketches of Travel in Washington Territory, British Columbia, Oregon and California

CHAPTER III.. Indian Chief Seattle.--Frogs and Indians.--Spring Flowers

Indian Chief Seattle.--Frogs and Indians.--Spring Flowers and Birds.--The Red Tamáhnous.--The Little Pend d'Oreille.--Indian Legend.--From Seattle to Fort Colville.--Crossing the Columbia River Bar.--The River and its Surroundings.--Its Former Magnitude.--The Grande Coulée.--Early Explorers, Heceta, Meares, Vancouver, Grey.--Curious Burial-Place.--Chinese Miners.--Umatilla.--Walla Walla.--Sage-Brush and Bunch-Grass.--Flowers in the Desert.--"Stick" Indians.--Klickatats.--Spokane Indian.--Snakes.--Dead Chiefs.--A Kamas-Field.--Basaltic Rocks. 38

CHAPTER IV.. Two Hundred Miles on the Upper Columbia.--Steamer

Two Hundred Miles on the Upper Columbia.--Steamer "Forty-Nine."--Navigation in a Cañon.--Pend d'Oreille River and Lake.--Rock Paintings.--Tributaries of the Upper Columbia.--Arrow Lakes.--Kettle Falls.--Salmon-Catching.--Salmon-Dance.--Goose-Dance. 63

CHAPTER V.. Old Fort Colville.--Angus Mcdonald and His Indian

Old Fort Colville.--Angus McDonald and his Indian Family.--Canadian Voyageurs.--Father Joseph.--Hardships of the Early Missionaries.--The Coeurs d'Alêne and their Superstitions.--The Catholic Ladder.--Sisters of Notre Dame.--Skill of the Missionaries in instructing the Indians.--Father de Smet and the Blackfeet.--A Native Dance.--Spokanes.--Exclusiveness of the Coeurs d'Alêne.--Battle of Four Lakes.--The Yakima Chief and the Road-Makers. 75

CHAPTER VI.. Colville to Seattle.--"red."--"ferrins."--"broke Miners."--a

Colville to Seattle.--"Red."--"Ferrins."--"Broke Miners."--A Rare Fellow-Traveller.--The Bell-Mare.--Pelouse Fall.--Red-Fox Road.--Early Californians.--Frying-Pan Incense.--Dragon-Flies.--Death of the Chief Seattle. 93

CHAPTER VII.. Port Angeles Village and the Indian Ranch.--a "ship's

Port Angeles Village and the Indian Ranch.--A "Ship's Klootchman."--Indian Muck-a-Muck.--Disposition of an Old Indian Woman.--A Windy Trip to Victoria.--The Black Tamáhnous.--McDonald's in the Wilderness.--The Wild Cowlitz.--Up the River during a Flood.--Indian Boatmen.--Birch-Bark and Cedar Canoes. 109

CHAPTER VIII.. Voyage to San Francisco.--Fog-Bound.--Port Angeles.--Passing

Voyage to San Francisco.--Fog-Bound.--Port Angeles.--Passing Cape Flattery in a Storm.--Off Shore.--The "Brontes."--The Captain and his Men.--A Fair Wind.--San Francisco Bar.--The City at Night.--Voyage to Astoria.--Crescent City.--Iron-Bound Coast.--Mount St. Helen's.--Mount Hood.--Cowlitz Valley and its Floods.--Monticello. 124

CHAPTER IX.. Victoria.--Its Mountain Views, Rocks, and

Victoria.--Its Mountain Views, Rocks, and Flowers.--Vancouver's Admiration of the Island.--San Juan Islands.--Sir James Douglas.--Indian Wives.--Northern Indians.--Indian Workmanship.--The Thunder-Bird.--Indian Offerings to the Spirit of a Child.--Pioneers.--Crows and Sea-Birds. 137

CHAPTER X.. Puget Sound and Adjacent Waters.--Its Early

Puget Sound and Adjacent Waters.--Its Early Explorers.--Towns, Harbors, and Channels.--Vancouver's Nomenclature.--Juan de Fuca.--Mount Baker.--Chinese "Wing."--Ancient Indian Women.--Pink Flowering Currant and Humming-Birds.--"Ah Sing." 151

CHAPTER XI.. Rocky-Mountain Region.--Railroad From Columbia River to

Rocky-mountain Region.--Railroad from Columbia River to Puget Sound.--Mountain Changes.--Mixture of Nationalities.--Journey to Coos Bay, Oregon.--Mountain Cañon.--A Branch of the Coquille.--Empire City.--Myrtle Grove.--Yaquina.--Genial Dwellers in the Woods.--Our Unknown Neighbor.--Whales.--Pet Seal and Eagle.--A Mourning Mother.--Visit from Yeomans. 165

CHAPTER XII.. Puget Sound to San Francisco.--a Model Vessel.--the

Puget Sound to San Francisco.--A Model Vessel.--The Captain's Relation to his Men.--Rough Water.--Beauty of the Sea.--Golden-Gate Entrance.--San Francisco Streets.--Santa Barbara.--Its Invalids.--Our Spanish Neighbors.--The Mountains and the Bay.--Kelp.--Old Mission.--A Simoom.--The Channel Islands.--A New Type of Chinamen.--An Old Spanish House. 182

CHAPTER XIII.. Our Aerie.--the Bay and the Hills.--the Little

Our Aerie.--The Bay and the Hills.--The Little Gnome.--Earthquake.--Temporary Residents.--The Trade-Wind.--Seal-Rocks.--Farallon Islands.--Exhilarating Air.--Approach of Summer.--Centennial Procession.--Suicides.--Mission Dolores.--Father Pedro Font and his Expedition.--The Mission Indians.--Chinese Feast of the Dead.--Curious Weather. 199

CHAPTER XIV.. Quong.--His _protégé_.--His Peace-Offering.--the Chinese and

Quong.--His Protégé.--His Peace-Offering.--The Chinese and their Grandmothers.--Ancient Ideas.--Irish, French, and Spanish Chinamen.--Chinese Ingenuity.--Hostility against the Chinese.--Their Proclamations.--Discriminations against them.--Their Evasion of the Law.--Their Perseverance against all Obstacles.--Their Reverence for their Ancestors, and Fear of the Dead.--Their Medical Knowledge.--Their Belief in the Future.--Their Curious Festivals.--Indian Names for the Months.--Resemblance between the Indians and Chinese.--Their Superstitions. 220

CHAPTER XV.. Chun Fa's Funeral.--Alameda.--Gophers and Lizards.--Poison

Chun Fa's Funeral.--Alameda.--Gophers and Lizards.--Poison Oak.--Sturdy Trees.--Baby Lizards.--Old Alameda.--Emperor Norton.--California Generosity.--The Dead Newsboy.--Anniversary of the Goddess Kum Fa.--Chinese Regard for the Moon and Flowers.--A Shin Worshipper. 242

LIFE AT PUGET SOUND.

At Sea.--Mariguana Island.--Sea-Birds.--Shipwreck.--Life on Roncador Reef.--The Rescue.--Isthmus of Panama.--Voyage to San Francisco.--The New Baby.

ATLANTIC OCEAN, May 26, 1865.

It is a great experience to feel the loneliness of the sea,--to see the whole circle of the heavens, and nothing under it but the rising and falling water, from morning till night, day after day.

The first night we were out the porpoises came up at twilight, and sported round the vessel. I saw some sea-birds that seemed to be playing,--running and sliding on the green, glassy waves. In the wake of the vessel were most beautiful changing colors. Little Nelly S. sat with us to watch the phosphorescence. She said, "The stars in the sea call to me, with little fine voices, 'Nelly, Nelly, are you alive?'"

MAY 27, 1865.

We have had our first sight of land,--Mariguana, a coral island, one of the Bahamas. Every one stood in silence to see it, it was so beautiful. The spray dashed so high, that, as it fell, we at first took it for streams and cascades. It was just at sunrise; and we cast longing looks at the soft green hills, bathed in light. Now it is gone, and we have only the wide ocean again. But a new color has appeared in the water,--a purplish pink, which looks very tropical; and there are blotches of yellow seaweed. Some of it caught in the wheel, and stopped it. The sailors drew it up, and gave it to the children to taste. It was like a little fruit, and they say the birds eat it.

The sea is growing quite rough. I was thinking of being a little afraid, the vessel plunged so; but Mother Cary's chickens came out, and I thought I might as well consider myself as one of them, and not in any more danger than they are.

CARIBBEAN SEA, May 28, 1865.

We have had a great experience of really rough weather. The spray dashed over the deck, and only the hardiest could keep up. Any one who tried to move was thrown off his feet. Preparations were made for divine service by lashing two boxes together in the middle of the deck, and spreading a flag over them. It was conducted by a Scotch Presbyterian minister. As he began his prayer, he received quite an addition to his congregation, in a flock of great birds, that appeared on my side of the vessel. They wheeled round, and settled down softly together. I do not know what they are, but suppose they are gulls of some kind. They have long, narrow wings, brown, with a little black, and snow-white underneath. I am half inclined to envy these wild, soulless creatures, that know no fear.

RONCADOR REEF, June 5, 1865.

On Tuesday morning, May 30, between three and four o'clock, we were awakened by the sharp stroke of the engine-bell, a deep grinding sound, and the sudden stopping of the vessel. We knew that we had not arrived at our port of destination, and felt instinctively that something extraordinary had happened. For a moment all was silence; then inquiries arose from all sides, as to what was the matter. The engine seemed to be in a great state of commotion; and the vessel began to writhe with a heavy, laborious movement, as if attempting to free herself from the grasp of some monster. We dressed hastily, and went into the cabin, where we found a good many of the passengers, and learned that the vessel had struck on a coral-reef. We put on life-preservers, and sat waiting until daylight, expecting every moment the vessel would split. As soon as it was light enough, we went upon deck, and saw the sailors cut away the masts and smoke-stacks, which went over the side of the ship. The water dashed over the deck, so that we were obliged to go below. It seemed there as if we were under the ocean, with the water breaking over our heads. Chandeliers, glasses, and other movable articles were crashing together around us. The cabin was filled with people, quietly sitting, ready for they knew not what. But among all the seven hundred passengers there was no shrieking nor crying nor groaning, except from the little children, who were disturbed by the noise and discomfort. How well they met the expectation of death! Faces that I had passed as most ordinary, fascinated me by their quiet, firm mouths, and eyes so beautiful, I knew it must be the soul I saw looking through them. Some parties of Swedish emigrants took out their little prayer-books, and sat clasping each other's hands, and reading them. A missionary bound for Micronesia handed out his tracts in all directions, but no one took much notice of them. Generally, each one seemed to feel that he could meet death alone, and in his own way.

In the afternoon a faint semblance of land was seen off on the horizon, and a boat was sent out to explore. It was gone a long time, and as night approached was anxiously looked for. Just about dark, it appeared in sight. As it drew near, we saw the men in it waving their hats, and heard them shouting, by which we knew they had succeeded in finding land. The men on the vessel gave a hearty response, but the women could not keep back their tears.

That night the women and children were lowered with ropes, over the side of the vessel, into boats, and taken to a raft near by, hastily constructed on the rocks at the surface of the water, from loose spars, stateroom-doors, and such other available material as could be secured from the vessel. All night long we lay there, watching the dim outline of the ship, which still had the men on board, as she rose and fell with each wave,--the engine-bell tolling with every shock. The lights that hung from the side of the vessel increased the wild, funereal appearance of every thing about us. They continually advanced and receded, and seemed to motion us to follow them. There was a strange fascination about them, which I could not resist; and I watched them through the whole night.

At daylight the next morning the ship's boats began to take us over to the island discovered the day before, which was slightly elevated above the surface of the water, and about four miles distant from the wreck. As we approached the shore, some new birds, unlike any I had seen before,--indolent-looking, quiet, and amiable,--flew out, and hovered over the boat, peering down at us, as if inquiring what strange creatures were about to invade their home. Probably they had never seen any human beings before. The sailors said they were "boobies;" and they certainly appeared very unsophisticated, and quite devoid of the wit and sprightliness of most birds.

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