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Part 13

Journal of a Visit to Constantinople and Some of the Greek Islands in the Spring and Summer of 1833 · John Auldjo — chapter 13 of 19 · ~2,288 words · public domain

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"Black as death, their lashes the same hue, Of downcast length--in whose silk shadow lies Deepest attraction."

Her hair was of a deep glossy brown, nearly approaching to black, and fell in luxuriant ringlets on a neck of ivory; while her tall, commanding figure seemed to have been moulded by the Graces; and though somewhat inclining to the embonpoint, she moved with an elegance and dignity befitting Juno herself.

I have already observed, that the ankle of the true Grecian race is remarkable for its exquisite symmetry; and hers was a model of perfection, which plainly indicated her descent from a people, among whom beauty is the most decided national characteristic. Her delicate small foot was chaussée'd in a very neat black shoe, with a stocking of snowy whiteness: in a word, she seemed the personification of Dudú,

"Somewhat large, languishing, and lazy, But of a beauty that would drive you crazy."

The other ladies, if seen elsewhere, might have been considered handsome; but on this occasion their charms were completely eclipsed. In attempting to describe the person of so singular and lovely a female, I feel conscious how inadequate my language has been to convey any idea of the reality; which, like a Peri descended from the celestial paradise, flits before my eyes, "rich in all woman's loveliness."

"Who hath not proved how feebly words essay To fix one spark of Beauty's heavenly ray? Who doth not feel, until his failing sight Faints into dimness with its own delight-- His changing cheek--his sinking heart confess The might--the majesty of loveliness?"

I could not discover who the enchantress was, further than that her party came from the Fanal. After remaining but a very short time, they reentered their light bark, and sped swiftly down the stream.

This was my farewell excursion to the Keathane, for I had no opportunity of visiting it afterwards; but the happy moments I passed there, will ever be among the most delightful recollections of my visit to the East.

He found the Seraskier seated smoking upon his divan, and he politely inquired the purport of his visit. George, who was in his plain sailor's clothes, addressed his Excellency by all his titles, and replied, that he was a British officer, one of several others, who were waiting outside, because they felt unwilling to intrude on his Seraskiership; that the party could remain in Stamboul but a few days, and having heard much talk of the magnificent mosque of St. Sophia, they were most anxious to be admitted within its sacred precincts; for which favour they should be ever grateful, and devoutly pray, &c.

To this the Seraskier replied, that he highly applauded the laudable curiosity of the spokesmen and his friends: that truly, the mosque was an object worthy of their inspection, and did the order for admission depend on him, he would grant it instanter. It was, however, entirely foreign to his department, and he could only refer them to the Scheik Islam, or to the Reis Effendi, either of whom, on his recommendation,--and he desired George to convey to them his humble respects,--would grant the object of their petition. He prayed to God they might succeed, for God was great.

So saying, he bowed George out of the audience chamber into the court, where we stood, bursting with laughter at the ridiculousness of the scene, and well aware, that the permission was never granted, except as an especial favour, and always by a firman regularly signed and sealed by the Sultan, and delivered through the various officers about the court, on the payment of heavy fees.

Her eyes and eyelashes were intensely black; though I suspect the latter were stained of a dye deeper than the natural one. Her complexion was beautifully fair, with the slightest tint of carnation suffused over the cheek. Her lips! sweet lips! "that make us sigh even to have seen such." Her glossy hair, which was bound with a kalemkeir or painted handkerchief, representing a whole parterre of flowers, fell in loose curls upon her shoulders, and down her back: she wore a short black velvet jacket, embroidered with gold lace; trowsers of sky blue silk; an under-jacket of pink crape, and one of those beautiful transparent shirts which ravish the beholder, and "half reveal the charms they fain would hide." A magnificent Persian shawl encircled her waist, which had nature's own form, never having been compressed by the cruel bondage of stays.

Her feet were in slippers, and two or three ugly rings deformed her white and slender fingers, the nails of which were dyed with henna. Around her neck she wore a double row of pearls, from which hung an amulet. Her skin was very white and beautiful; the constant use of the dry vapour bath having reduced it to a fineness, which I can only compare to highly polished marble; and it looked as glossy and as cold. She was well pleased with the drawing I made of her; and, on rising to go away, she put on her yellow boots over the beautiful white foot and ankle, which it was a sin to conceal: then donning her gashmak and cloak, she bade us adieu, with a grace and elegance which few English ladies could equal.

No wonder the Turks sigh for paradise, when they believe heaven to be peopled with houris such as these! Egad! it requires the exertion of all one's philosophy and self-denial to resist the temptation of turning Turk too.

It was really delightful to watch the elegant manner in which this young and lovely creature moved, and with how graceful, yet unstudied attitude she accepted the sweetmeats I presented to her. Who would wish for spoons, forks, or knives, when such fair hands are plunged with yours into the dish, and draw forth the contents with an air that fills one with admiration? So soft, so gentle is the touch with which every thing is handled,--the contact being effected with the extreme tip of the finger alone,--that it reminds you of the half hesitating, half fearful, yet graceful, motion with which a well-bred cat dips her paw into water.

I repeatedly thanked our hostess for the pleasure she had afforded me, by an introduction to this very beautiful representative of the much talked-of, and far-famed, Turkish ladies.

Considering the rigid seclusion of eastern women at home, and the ingenuity with which their apparel is contrived for concealing their persons when abroad, I have reason to congratulate myself on my good fortune in having seen so many.

Thursday, 13th.--To-day the Sultan crossed in the state caique to his new palace near Beglerbeg. The frigates, &c. manned yards, were dressed in all their colours, and fired a royal salute. Unfortunately, this transferring of his sacred person from Europe to Asia was not previously made known, so that I did not witness the procession; but the thundering of the cannon announced that some great event was going forward.

In such a scene as this, it sounded like the voice of the Divinity calling on every frail mortal to confess and own the power of the omnipresent Being, the Great Spirit who made the temple of the universe for his worship. The humbled sinner acknowledges the awful summons, and offers the outpourings of a heart full of gratitude to the Eternal, who made him, and this beautiful world for his enjoyment; and responds to the voice of God, speaking through nature, with an intensity of feeling which is the sure pledge of its sincerity.

On nearing the Actæon, the Captain came on board, and we lay to for some time, while a boat was despatched to that vessel for a Russian flag, and when it arrived we steamed on again. Another salute was fired as we passed the Russian admiral, which he was so long in returning, that it was supposed they did not think our boat worth replying to. However, it came at last, with a bad grace, though better late than never.

A long discussion now arose, whether the boat should remain until the next evening at Buyukdere, or proceed onwards to Galata, after landing those who wished to disembark at the former place. After a stormy debate, the first-named proposition was carried by a large majority, a majority decided by the democratic principle of vote by ballot. Notwithstanding this apparent settlement of the question, the captain changed his mind, and, landing those who were Buyukderotes, he left them to find their way to Stamboul, and obtain lodgings for themselves as they could: rather a difficult thing, by the by; for to-morrow evening the Austrian ambassador gives a grand fête, dinner, ball, and supper to the Prince of Bavaria, who is to review the Russian troops in the morning, and leave Stamboul on Monday. All attempts have failed to procure him an audience of the Sultan, who will not receive him, because, he says, naturally enough, "What has he to do with me, or I with him? He is brother of the King of Greece: granted: but why come to intrude himself here? I will not see him; it can do no good." These were the Sultan's words, in answer to the application.

After partaking of a few bottles of London porter, we embarked in my caique which had been waiting for me, and away we rowed to Terapia. We dined at the palace, and went to bed early, to be up betimes, and over the water, in order to accompany the Prince at the review. By the by, the splendid lobsters we had for supper must not be forgotten. I never saw such immense shell-fish; any one of them would have satisfied the cravings of an alderman.

We first visited the Turkish camp, and then proceeded to that of the Cossacks. A guard of the latter, wild fierce-looking marauders, led the way; then followed the Prince and his staff; and the procession was closed by a troop of Turkish lancers, very odd-looking soldiers, and our party of pedestrians, who managed, by making short cuts, to get before the main body of reviewers. The tents were all whitened, and put in the best possible order for the occasion; and it must be allowed they looked very pretty and comfortable, being surrounded by tall green branches, which were stuck into the ground; so that, in walking between them, we seemed to be moving through a grove of shady trees. Each regiment was drawn out, with its arms piled, and the soldiers were dressed in grey great-coats, though it was the hottest day I ever remember to have experienced during my stay at Constantinople.

As the royal cortège passed along the line, the soldiers doffed their caps, and when it arrived at the centre of each regiment, the fugle-man gave a signal, and they raised a loud shout, followed by a short expressive ejaculation, in their native language, which means, "God save the Emperor!" But the most striking and novel portion of the whole was, when the regiments, after being reviewed, successively poured forth one of those beautiful solemn chants, which I heard once before, from the quarter-deck of the Actæon. [Sidenote: GIANT'S MOUNTAIN] In the present instance, the whole army did not commence singing together, but each regiment caught up the strain as the preceding one dropped it, so that the music lasted for a considerable period; and never did the elaborate productions of the most celebrated composers, sound to me half so beautiful as these sacred simple melodies, when chanted by a thousand united voices, and spreading heavenly music over the whole mountain. I shall not readily forget the effect produced on my feelings by this harmonious "concord of sweet sounds;" and at that moment how highly poetical did the rich descriptive imagery of Shakspeare appear, where he makes one of his characters exclaim:--

"That strain again;--it had a dying fall: O, it came o'er my ear like the sweet south, That breathes upon a bank of violets, Stealing, and giving odour!"

After following the Prince to the top of the Giant's Mountain, we allowed him to descend without our train, and remained to enjoy the wide extended prospect.

Behind the mosque situated on this eminence, is an oblong narrow garden, full of rose trees and jasmine, which vulgar tradition points out as the grave of the giant who gives name to the mountain, and who figures in the Pagan annals as a hero of extraordinary size and valour. Among the Christians, he is said to have been a vast and ferocious giant; while the Mussulmans will have him to be a holy dervish. In each tradition he was a monster, that sat on the top of the mountain, and dangled his feet in the waters of Buyukdere to cool himself. According to the poets, every one who passed the Bosphorus was compelled to engage him in single combat, until he fell, at last, by the hand of Pollux. The Christian version of the story, that describes him as the stirrer up of whirlpools, and the devourer of the sailors who attempted to pass the channel without paying tribute, is equally wild and fabulous. The Mussulman account, which makes him a dervish that lived to a vast age, and whose favour it was the object of every one of the Faithful to gain, is the least improbable of the whole.

We descended by a different route, through part of the ground marked out for a new camp, the necessity for which it is difficult to comprehend, unless more troops are expected. We got into the Sultan's Valley, and lounged under the trees till dinner-time, when we passed over to Terapia.

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