The colonel kept his word: no sooner said than done; retiring instantly in the direction of home, and never halting for breath until he reached the city, a march of about seven or eight miles, which was accomplished in a time that proved highly creditable to the wind and bottom of both himself and such of his corps as stuck to their chief throughout this rapid movement.
The worthy militia colonel was tried by court-martial, and broke, for this wise exercise of his judgment; he still, notwithstanding, rejoices in his military title; and follows the hounds stoutly at a good healthy old age, which in all human probability would never have arrived had he waited to change his front with a veteran corps actively deploying on his flank in open field.
We drew a great extent of cover, but found no fox; indeed, if we had, the day came on too hot for either dogs or horses to have followed far. I was sufficiently delighted with my ride; the woods were beautiful, and from the Neck both the harbour and city show to great advantage.
During this visit to Baltimore, I had changed my scene of action from the "Front Street" to the "Holiday Theatre;" smaller, but more comfortable than my first quarters: this city is not so theatrical as the others I have visited, but no audience can be more agreeable; they certainly ought to like a play, for when they do come they enjoy it heartily; and during my present visit the house was unusually well attended. As a residence I like Baltimore much; its market is equal to any other in the States, and cheaper than either Philadelphia or New York.
The great race-meeting, on the central course here, being to take place on the 21st of this month, I resolved to attend it; and spent my intervening fortnight between Philadelphia and Princeton, where I passed a few days at Mr. S----n's, quail-shooting, in company with a countryman, whose society made the longest day light, and sometimes indeed did as much for the longest night. On the 18th I again quitted the hospitable Princeton, and accompanied Captain S----n to Bristol, via Trenton. In the latter place we found the whole community rejoicing over the triumph of the democratic or Jackson party, in favour of which the past election had proved most decisive. At Bristol we took the steamer for Philadelphia, and next day on to Baltimore for the races: the weather for the last ten days unexceptionable.
Tuesday, 21st.--Attended the central course: a pleasant ride of six miles or so. On this day was made the first attempt at running three-year old horses with our weight and for our distance, instead of the four-mile heats usual here; the attempt was a decided failure: an evident prejudice existed against it amongst the sporting men; only six horses were entered, and of these four paid forfeit: the race became a match therefore, and went off tamely. I doubt whether the experiment will ever succeed here, if even it is repeated.
Nothing can be more meagre than the ordinary accessories of an American race-course: here is no assemblage of the beau-monde, no populace, no four-in-hand drags, no costermongers, no donkeys, no dukes, no thimble-rig, no gipsies; in short, "no nothin'," except a few quiet-looking hacks and a sprinkling of sulkies.
On this day, I observed about a dozen ladies in the comfortless stand: these were here in order to qualify for the race-ball, the stewards having given out that no invites would be extended to any ladies who did not, on one day at least, grace the course with their presence.
24th.--A better assemblage on the course than I have yet seen: a good deal of excitement stirring in consequence of "Shark" being entered once more to run against the pet of the South, "Trifle." The stand presented quite a goodly show of women: a greater number of pretty ones it would be difficult to collect in any city of the size.
The race was won by the favourite "Trifle" in two four-mile heats, two of the horses entered being distanced in the first: the time of the first heat was seven minutes 28 seconds; and of the second, seven minutes 27 seconds.
"Shark" again ran under great disadvantages; for, during his journey from Princeton in New Jersey, he had thrown out a bad curb on his off-hock, close to the articulation of the joint. Captain S----n was resolved, however, that there should be no disappointment, and started him accordingly. He was badly ridden, and ran lame for the first three miles, but came well in. For the second heat his rider was changed, and he made a slashing race, coming in close to the little mare. "Shark" is an Eclipse colt, of remarkable power and beauty, and will yet, I think, turn out one of the first race-horses of the country.
In the evening, the race-ball took place, and here were congregated most of the assembly-going beauty of Baltimore; but, I should say, the cathedral is the place where the greatest portion may be seen. I do not know whether or not my judgment is correct, but the general style of dress struck me to be in better taste here than I had elsewhere observed it; perhaps because it was plainer, a style that suits my fancy better than any mode having more pretension.
A good supper was one of the provisions not least admirable; a majestic corned round of beef stood on a side-table; an object of admiration not often presented to view in the States, but of whose beauty there could be no two opinions: for myself, I did more than admire; I at once addressed it ardently, and for its return of tenderness can avouch: I gratefully remember it, still cherishing the fond recollection.
A compassionate countryman of my own, who saw me drinking iced champagne, bade me follow him: with that provident attention to trifles, so characteristic of Ireland on similar occasions, this thoughtful soul had not "forgotten to remember" that a little whisky-punch might be acceptable on a cold night before facing the air of morning. The compound in question had been prepared by an experienced hand, and the material was great indeed; I was assured that the spirit had been just fifteen years away from its native city, Cork. Honoured be its parent. Still! may the turf ever burn bright beneath it, and the New World long rejoice in its fruitfulness!
"For Oh! there's a spell
In its every drop, 'gainst the ills of mortality. Talk of the cordial that sparkled for Helen, Her cup was a fiction, but this a reality."
Sunday, 26th.--Was called early, having an engagement to pass a couple of days with Mr. C----l at his country-house: found a gale of wind blowing, with an accompaniment of heavy rain: countermanded the vehicle I had ordered, and returned to bed, since a country excursion on this day was out of the question.
27th.--Accompanied Mr. S----r to Carrol's Island, having arranged to visit this celebrated ducking-ground on our way to Mr. Oliver's seat.
We reached the house about eleven o'clock, the distance being sixteen miles: the cottage, which forms the head-quarters of the club of gentlemen who farm this sporting-stand, was plain enough for the most republican spirit. One sitting-room, and a couple of dormitories containing a camp-bed for each member, with pegs and racks for arms and implements, formed the whole of the appointments and furniture; but the sport is first-rate; and the plain simplicity of this menage gives increased zest to the meeting, and promotes the hardihood essential both to the successful pursuit of game and to the healthful enjoyment of the sport.
Before the hour of dinner, we walked down on to the long neck of land where the shooters patiently abide the flight of the ducks: on one side is the Seneca, and on the other the Gunpowder river; both favourite feeding-grounds of all the water-fowl frequenting this region of creeks, rivers, and bays. About the central line of the neck of land, a dozen or so of stands are ranged at equal distances, built about four feet high, each large enough for two gunners; with shelves within for the various traps needful, a plank floor, and a couple of stools.
Here the men on duty take post; and, chewing the quid of "sweet and bitter fancies" patiently abide the moment when it may please the canvass-back to give his bosom to the breeze, and quit one river for the other. Half a dozen Retrievers, of a mixed breed, lay lounging on the grass in front of this line of watch-boxes, awaiting the moment when work should be cut out for their Sagacities. These were admirably trained to their vocation, as I had an opportunity of judging whilst a looker-on here. On the occasion of a small flight, a couple of long shots were made, and a duck winged slightly: it made a good downward slant, and fell forty yards from the shore into the Seneca: at the same moment in dashed four dogs after it, helter-skelter: there was a little sea on, and the object of their search at first unseen by them: a wave of the hand from the sportsman was the signal by which their line was regulated, and for this one of the four would occasionally look back. The wounded bird, on being neared, dived, followed by the foremost dog; the others staunchly pursuing the line of their under-course, directed by the air-bubbles rising to the surface: in a little time, up came the duck ahead of its pursuers, and the dog close upon it; being hard pressed, down again went the duck, and down went another dog; and for several times was this repeated, until the chase was nearly a mile from the beach, when the dogs were recalled from a pursuit which is rarely successful unless the game has received some bodily wound, or has a limb broken,--so active and so strong are these birds in the water.
At two o'clock we sat down to a most capital dinner,--a joint of roast-beef, fine fish, and Canvass-backs, that had been on the wing within a couple of hours, together with the Red-head, Teal, and two or three other specimens; all excellent in their way, but not comparable for delicacy, fat, or flavour with that inimitable work of nature the right Canvass-back duck of these waters, where the wild celery on which they love to feed abounds, and to which they owe the delicate aromatic flavour so prized by the gourmand.
At five o'clock P.M., after witnessing some sport, S----r gave the word to mount, and off we set for Mr. Oliver's. An hour's ride brought us within his domain, where lofty deer-fences, blackthorn hedge-rows, well-made drives, and carefully cultivated land, formed a striking change from the wild but beautiful forest-country through which we had ridden.
We first came upon the farm-yard and offices of the estate, all well-arranged and in good order: here we left our horses, and walked on to the house,--a plain sporting-lodge, without any outward appearance or pretension. It is well situated upon a gentle eminence overlooking a couple of fine reaches of the Gunpowder river; on the land side the deer-park spreads away to the forest, being divided from the lawn by an invisible fence.
Himself an ardent lover of the sports of the field, Mr. Oliver, for a time, took infinite pains to cultivate a legitimate taste for it; but, I believe, without much success, although he pursued his plans on a scale and at a cost not often imitated in this country. Indeed, to say truth, men of fortune have little encouragement here to be liberal in this way; since, when a gentleman has surrounded himself with all the appliances to sporting, it is next to impossible to bring them fairly into play; or, however social his own spirit may be, yet harder to find persons possessing the time and taste for their enjoyment.
The worthy old sportsman gave me a grievous list of difficulties which he had encountered from a desire to promote on this fine estate the breed of certain animals and birds. Keepers were provided from Europe with first-rate characters; but they found all their ancient habits were to be unlearned here, and were soon completely at fault.
The foxes killed his pheasants; the neighbouring farmers, or boatmen from the rivers, had decoyed his dogs and shot down his deer; and, after a hopeless struggle, he had given up his hounds: the deer alone he managed to domesticate and increase, his stock at present amounting to four hundred head.
No spot could have been better chosen for an experiment of this kind, as the whole estate lies within a natural ring-fence, bounded by deep waters on two sides, and cut off from all neighbours on the other by a belt of close forest. Under other laws, time would be afforded for the regular improvement of this domain, and the plans of the founder might be carried out by his successors; but, as it is, the present worthy possessor once laid beneath the turf, the object of all his pains-taking and labour will, in all probability, be cut up into small farms, or be allowed once more to degenerate into forest, as may appear most profitable to his heirs.
Impressions of America During the Years 1833, 1834 and 1835. Volume 2 (of 2) · The Wunder Library — complete classics, free to read, with narration.