Part 3

Whilst standing in the shade of our hotel, the rattle of drums gave note of some display of war; an event of daily occurrence during this season of the year throughout these northern States, where playing at soldiers is one of the choicest amusements. Captain B----n asked a stander-by what volunteer corps was parading to-day: "Why, I don't rightly know; but I guess it may be the Taunton Juvenile Democratic Lancers."

Our informant was quite right; for whilst, puzzled by the gravity of the man, I was considering whether or no he meant a hoax by the style which he bestowed upon the gallant corps, into the square it marched, with drums beating and colours flying. The colonel commanding was a smart little fellow, about twelve years old, dressed in a fancy uniform jacket, and ample linen cossacks; his regiment mustered about forty rank and file, independent of a numerous and efficient staff: they were in full uniform; most of them were about the colonel's age, some of the cornets perhaps a trifle younger, as became their station; they were armed with lances; and their motto was most magnanimous, being all about glory, death, liberty, and democracy. Nothing could be more steady than the movements of this corps on foot; and, when mounted, I have no doubt they prove as highly efficient a body as any volunteer lancer cavalry in the Union.

This could not be called "teaching the young idea how to shoot," since the corps only bore l'arme blanche; but it was highly creditable to the waggery of the citizens of Taunton, and the most efficient burlesque upon the volunteer system I had yet seen, although I have encountered many more elaborately gotten up.

Whilst we were devising some means of visiting the principal manufactory, a gentleman entered our room, and introducing himself said, that, having recognised me in the street, he had called to know if he could be of any service in showing myself and friend the only lions of the place,--its manufactories.

This act of politeness, which I have found a common occurrence in every part of the Union, at once relieved us from our difficulty, and off we set in company with our civil guide to visit the largest depot of the place.

The designs of the printed cottons, and the colours, both struck me as being exceedingly good; in texture, however, I did not conceive any of the cloths equal to similar stuffs which I had seen at home in manufacturing towns. One of the partners informed me that they supplied large quantities of goods to the markets both of India and of South America: the manufacturer's chief drawback, he said, was found in the cost of labour; indeed, judging by the dress and neat appearance of the young women employed here, they must be exceedingly well paid: a comparison drawn between them and the same class of employees in England would be singularly in favour of the Taunton "Maids of the Mill."

The cool time of the day being come, we once more had our active ponies put to, and away they went as eager to "go a-head" as on our first start. From this place to Pocassett the ride was lovely: our road lay high above the river; and, over the luxuriant foliage, topsail-schooners, large sloops, and other craft, were seen working their different courses, some bound up, others to Providence, Newport, or the ports on the coast.

A few miles from the town we came upon a small clearing by the road-side, evidently in use as a place of burial, and nothing ever struck me as more neglected; a few decayed boards, with an ill-shaped falling head-stone or two, were all the prosperous living had bestowed upon their departed kindred. This neglect of those little decencies with which, amongst most people, places of sepulture are surrounded, is a thing of common observance in this part of the Union, and is one of the reproaches readily noticeable by all strangers. The distinction in this respect between the North and South is remarkable, and highly creditable to the feelings of the latter.

By the time we reached Pocassett it was nearly dark, and here we settled for the night, having driven the ponies fifty odd miles, without their being in the least distressed, and on a day of no ordinary fervor.

In the evening we attended a book sale, and were much amused by the volubility and humour of the Yankee salesman, who, with his coat off in a close crowded room, lectured upon the merits of the authors he offered, whether poetical, religious, historical, mathematical, or political, with equal ease and grace, greatly to the edification of the bystanders. The editions were chiefly American, made to sell, and thus exceedingly cheap. History and novels appeared to be the literature in demand; and Walter Scott, Byron, and Bulwer, the names most familiar in the verbal catalogue galloped over by the "learned gentleman," as our auctioneer advertisements have it.

The hotel here was remarkably neat and clean; we procured an excellent cup of tea, and next morning found a most substantial breakfast. After seeing the population assemble for church, and walking about the banks of the river, which are very beautiful, we about noon set out for our final destination, over a villanous, rough road, reached Rhode Island, by the long substantial causeway connecting it with the main land, and from this point we had a good turnpike, pulling up at Newport by two o'clock.

The public dinner was already over, being Sabbath; but the proprietor of our hotel, a worthy Quaker named Potter, got us a very comfortable meal at five o'clock, according to our wishes: meantime we rid ourselves of the accumulated dust of two days, and were comfortably established in out-quarters, the hotel being full.

NEWPORT.

RHODE ISLAND.

The appearance of Newport is much less imposing, as approached by land, than when viewed from the noble harbour over which it looks. It consists of one long line of close-built, narrow streets running parallel with the water about the base of the steep hill, with many others climbing up its side. It is indifferently paved, and has a very light soil; so that upon the least land-breeze the lower town is filled with the dust, which is blown about in clouds.

Before the revolution, Newport was a city of comparative importance, and indeed, whilst the importation of slaves continued a part of the trade of the country, held its own with the most thriving cities of the east coast, through the great advantage it derived from its easy harbour, but with the abolition of that traffic came the downfall of its prosperity; for having no back country by the exportation of whose produce it might sustain itself, it was speedily deserted by the mercantile community, and its carrying trade usurped by Providence, although the latter is situated some thirty miles higher up the river. A railroad from Boston through the wealthy manufacturing districts might nevertheless, I should imagine, bestow upon this place the supremacy which the difficulty of land-carriage alone has withheld from it.

Its great natural advantage to visitors is the charming climate with which it is favoured, owing to its being on all sides surrounded by deep water: this is a point that cannot be changed by a decree in Congress, or removed by order of the Board of Trade, and likely to be of more use to the place, if made the most of, than the dockyard and depot which they seek to establish.

If the English plan was adopted, and small snug cottages built and furnished for the use of families resorting here, these families would naturally quit the arks in which they are now congregated, and live each after the manner of its kind, as all wise animals do; in which case, I cannot anywhere imagine a more charming abode, or one possessing superior advantages.

The general aspect of the neighbourhood puts me in mind of the Lothians; whilst some of the rides amongst the shady lanes, through whose high, loose hedgerows glimpses were constantly occurring of the sea and rocky shore, were not unworthy a comparison with portions of that Eden of our western coast, the Isle of Wight.

The harbour of Newport is of vast extent, easy of entrance, and perfectly secure from all the winds that blow: its advantages in the event of a naval war must ultimately render it the chief general depot of these States. The government appears quite sensible of the policy of rendering this noble station perfectly secure in good season: a series of defences, of first-rate importance, are in a course of erection which, when completed, it is supposed will render the harbour impregnable to any attempt from the sea. To Fort Adams, the rough-work of which is completed, I paid more than one visit; and nothing can be more substantially put together.

The necessity of a dockyard of the first order being established at this point appears to have been long and warmly pressed upon the administration by all naval men who have considered the subject: want of money, the great stumbling-block of a cheap government, has hitherto prevented the plan being carried into execution; but it is imagined that this will not be delayed much longer, after the defences are completed. Since the decease of the gallant Perry, this has ceased to be a naval station; during the last years of his life he held a command here, which was almost nominal.

I visited the place where Perry lies buried beneath a simple obelisk of granite: few heroes appear to have lived so universally loved as was the Conqueror of the Lakes. His short but brilliant career, added to his youth and remarkable personal beauty, made him the idol of the people; whilst his generous disposition and winning manners rendered him the delight of his friends. I never heard the name of this officer mentioned without eulogium, mingled with regret for his premature death.

My condition here is enviable enough: I have a pleasant room, with a fig-tree growing before my window, beneath which Captain B----n and myself breakfast daily, well shaded from sun and dust; not a musquito disputes possession with us; and the dinner-table at the "Pottery" is well served enough, and graced by several very handsome women.

Here is another large hotel near to us, which, from its high bare walls and numerous windows, we have named the "Factory;" and a sort of rivalry may be said to exist between the "Pottery girls" and those of this "Factory." The amusements consist of scandal, bathing, riding, with an occasional boating party, but the men are not enterprising, otherwise the facilities for little pic-nics and country excursions abound. The ladies, who have monopolized all the spirit here, contrive frequently to get up little hops at one house or other, and these are conducted with much gaiety and good humour; albeit, parties hold each other at a wary distance, and, although living in common beneath the same roof, have classifications made upon principles which have hitherto eluded my penetration, and are too numerous to be easily defined by the most accomplished master of the ceremonies Margate ever boasted. The laws of our exclusives, however incomprehensible, are, as elsewhere, arbitrary; and the votary of fashion must be content blindfold to follow the despotic goddess, or quit her ranks.

Whilst here, I had observed for some time an advertisement setting forth that on a certain day a steam-boat would make an excursion to Block Island. This I resolved to join: first, because any change was desirable which might kill a day; and next, because I knew the place had been a sort of station whereat our squadron managed to hang on during the war, although singularly wild and harbourless.

BLOCK ISLAND.

Early in the morning, the steamer employed in this service quitted Providence with a full live cargo; and at Newport it brought up for about an hour, during which time several recruits, myself amongst the number, joined her.

It blew fresh from about east by south; and, in consequence, no sooner had we cleared the harbour, than we were met by a heavy head-sea, and nothing was to be seen on all sides but sickness, and the misery consequent upon the dilapidation of the pretty caps and bonnets of the fair Providencials. Never was a party of pleasure-seekers in a more woe-begone plight than was this of ours when we arrived in the open roadstead of the most inhospitable-looking shores of Block Island.