Part 16

The Jerusalem Artichoke needs only to be planted in order to thrive. Its tubers can be made into quite palatable pickles, and I have seen instances where, in the absence of cucumber pickles, the artichoke tuber was prepared the same way and used as a substitute.

CHIVES.

Chives are perfectly hardy perennial little members of the onion tribe, and are grown exclusively for their tops, which are used wherever the flavor of onion is required. Planted in small clumps in any common garden soil, they will grow readily, and in time increase so as to render a division necessary. The tops appear very early in spring, and can be shorn throughout the season, hence this valuable little plant should have a place in every garden.

PARSLEY.

As parsley seed is so obstinate about germinating in spring, it does better if sown in autumn, as soon as ripe. Where that is not possible, the seed may be sown in spring, but “don’t look for the plants till you see them coming,” since parsley seed just comes up when it feels like coming up, and not before. The plants should be given a moist, rich soil and a partly-shaded situation. The curled sorts are ornamental, but the plain-leaved is best for general use in cookery. When once established, a supply can easily be kept up from self-sown seed.

AROMATIC HERBS.

Aromatic or Sweet Herbs are worthy of more attention than they generally receive. If cooks used them more freely, doctors would have less occasion for prescribing them. The soil of the herb bed should be mellow and warm, but not over-rich. Deep, fertile soil produces an increase in size and foliage at the expense of fragrance, strength and flavor. The seeds should be sown as early in spring as the ground can be prepared.

Sweet Basil, Summer Savory, Sweet Marjoram, Sage and Thyme are grown for their foliage, which is used for seasoning, while Sweet Fennel, Dill, Coriander, Anise and Caraway are chiefly prized on account of their aromatic seeds. Aside from being useful for culinary purposes, most of the above-named plants possess valuable properties.

This completes the permanent bed.

Before proceeding any further I wish to have it understood that hereafter, in the course of this paper, all seeds advised to be sown broadcast are to be sown in long, narrow beds, with narrow walks between the beds, for convenience in gathering the crop and to protect the plants from being trodden upon.

Where sowing in drills is advised, it is likewise to be understood that all drills are to be not less than eighteen inches apart, and the cultivation between them to be done with a hand cultivator or wheel hoe, followed by hand hoeing between the plants if necessary.

Where planting in rows is recommended, it is intended that all rows, unless otherwise mentioned, should be not less than two and a half feet apart, to admit of the cultivation with a one-horse plow or cultivator, followed also by hand hoeing around the plants or hills.

Concerning the distance plants should be apart in the rows or otherwise, it may be safely said that each plant should stand so that when fully matured its outside leaves will just touch those of its nearest neighbor. This rule does not apply to onions and root crops, which may stand closer.

Concerning the best varieties of the different kinds of vegetables the reader is referred to the catalogues of reliable seedsmen. I shall recommend such varieties as I know to be good from personal experience.

PARSNIPS AND SALSIFY.

Alongside of the permanent bed, plant parsnips and salsify. Parsnip seed germinates slowly and quickly deteriorates by age, therefore early sowing and seed of unquestionable freshness are of primary importance. The subsoil should by all means be thoroughly loosened by the subsoil plow, unless it is naturally of a loose, friable texture. When it is borne in mind that parsnip roots grow wholly under ground, and when well grown measure over eighteen inches in length, the necessity for this will be seen at once. Sow in drills and thin to five inches apart. Parsnips may safely be left in the ground all winter, as frost greatly improves them in saccharine quality.

Salsify or oyster plant, as the name implies, possesses the flavor of the oyster to a marked degree, and is highly esteemed by many on this account. It should have the same treatment in every respect as directed for the parsnip, and like it, too, is improved by frost. In the ground adjoining the parsnips and salsify, plant such vegetables as lettuce, spinach, radish, peas, bush beans, onions, kohl rabi, early cabbage, cauliflower, early potatoes and sweet corn. These mature nearly in the order named, and in time enough to be succeeded by other vegetables which will be mentioned hereafter.

LETTUCE, SPINACH AND RADISH.

Seed of lettuce, spinach and radish should be sown broadcast and as early as possible, with later sowings at intervals of about two weeks for a successive supply. Soil for lettuce and spinach should be of more than ordinary richness, and should contain sufficient moisture to insure rapid continuous growth. The best lettuce heads are raised by sowing seed in a hotbed and transplanting to the open ground when plants are two inches high. Cabbage varieties should be selected for this purpose. In this way I have grown heads of the New York Lettuce to weigh two pounds each, under ordinary treatment. Hanson, Burpee’s Golden Heart and Perpetual Lettuce are all good sorts. The Cos varieties do best if tied up a few days before using, to blanch all the inner leaves.

The Radish will thrive in any good garden soil, but a light sandy loam is better than heavily manured ground. In order to be crisp and tender, the growth should be rapid and unchecked. I can recommend French Breakfast, Golden Globe, White Stuttgart and Chartiers. The latter is of unusual merit.

PEAS.

As we all want green peas as early as possible, the seed should be planted early--the earlier the better. Peas will bear a great deal of cold without the slightest injury, either in the ground or after they are up. Sow in drills at the rate of one pint of seed to thirty-five feet of drill. To keep up a succession make a sowing of an early, medium, and a late variety at the same time. In about two weeks make another sowing as before. Soil for early varieties should be warm and very rich. Late varieties should be planted deeper than early sorts, but the soil should not be so rich, as late varieties are more productive on moist, cool ground, not over rich. Philadelphia Extra Early, American Wonder and Telephone can be relied upon. After trying various methods for training pea vines I am satisfied that brush is the most effective support. Place a few short twigs or sticks on each side of dwarf peas, to prevent them from leaning over and decaying on the ground, as is often the case in a wet season.

DWARF OR BUSH BEANS.

Dwarf or bush beans should not be planted before danger from frost is over. Being very tender, nothing is gained by planting earlier. They may be planted in hills one foot apart, with four plants to the hill, but the better way, I think, is to plant in drills, with plants three inches apart in the drill.

Seed should be covered lightly with mellow soil. Beans often fail to come up, from being covered too deeply, especially if there is much rain after planting. Two plantings of both early and late varieties, at intervals of two weeks, will give a supply until pole beans come in season. Beans should never be hoed while the foliage is wet, as that produces rust. Black Wax, Early Valentine and Golden Wax are standard sorts.

ONIONS.

Onions may be raised successfully either from seed or from sets. If to be grown from seed no time should be lost in getting it sown in the spring. Sow in drills and thin the plants when about the size of quills, disturbing the remaining plants as little as possible. For southern latitudes and for an early supply it is better to grow onions from sets planted three inches apart, in drills. Sets are small onions grown the previous year, from seed sown quite thickly. Sets may be planted very early, as they will not be injured even if the ground should freeze after they are planted. Wethersfield and Danvers are good varieties. For extra large specimens, select Italian varieties.

KOHL RABI, EARLY CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER.