Herzegovina

CHAPTER II.. Military Road to Metcovich--Country Boat--Stagno--Port of

Military Road to Metcovich--Country Boat--Stagno--Port of Klek--Disputed Frontier--Narentine Pirates--Valley of the Narenta--Trading Vessels--Turkish Frontier--Facilities for Trade granted by Austria--Narenta--Fort Opus--Hungarian Corporal--Metcovich--Irish Adventurer--Gabella--Pogitel-- Dalmatian Engineer--Telegraphic Communication--Arrival at Mostar--Omer Pacha--Object of Campaign 16--32

CHAPTER III.. Herzegovina--Boundaries--Extent--Physical Features--

Herzegovina--Boundaries--Extent--Physical Features-- Mountains--Mineral Products--Story of Hadji Ali Pacha--Forests--Austrian Timber Company--Saw-Mill-- Rivers--Towns--Villages--Population--Greek Catholics-- Church Dignitaries--Roman Catholics--Monks--Franciscan College--Moral Depravity--Fine Field for Missionary Labour 33--49

CHAPTER IV.. Introduction of Christianity--Origin of Slavonic

Introduction of Christianity--Origin of Slavonic Element--First Appearance of the Patarenes in Bosnia--Their Origin--Tenets--Elect a Primate--Disappearance--Dookhoboitzi, or Combatants in Spirit--Turkish Conquest--Bosnian Apostasy--Religious Fanaticism--Euchlemeh--Commission under Kiamil Pacha--Servian Emissaries--National Customs--Adopted Brotherhood--Mahommedan Women--Elopements--Early Marriages 50--64

CHAPTER V.. Agricultural Products--Cereals--Misapplication of

Agricultural Products--Cereals--Misapplication of Soil--Tobacco--Current Prices--Vine Disease--Natural Capabilities of Land--Price of Labour--Dalmatian Scutors--Other Products--Manufactures--Commerce--Relations with Bosnia--Able Administration of Omer Pacha--Austria takes alarm--Trade Statistics--Imports--Exports--Frontier Duties--Mal-administration--Intended Reforms 65--75

CHAPTER VI.. Government--Mudirliks--Mulisarif--Cadi of Mostar--Medjlis--

Government--Mudirliks--Mulisarif--Cadi of Mostar--Medjlis-- Its Constitution and Functions--Criminal and Commercial Tribunals--Revenue and Taxes--Virgu--Monayene-askereh-- Customs--Tithes--Excise--Total Revenue--Police 76--83

CHAPTER VII.. Omer Pacha--Survey of Montenegro--Mostar--Bazaars--

Omer Pacha--Survey of Montenegro--Mostar--Bazaars-- Mosques--Schools--Old Tower--Escape of Prisoners--Roman Bridge--Capture by Venetians--Turkish Officers--Pacha's Palace--European Consulates--Clock-Tower--Emperor's Day--Warlike Preparations--Christian Volunteers--Orders to March 84--93

CHAPTER VIII.. Bosnia--Turkish Invasion--Tuartko Ii. and Ostoya

Bosnia--Turkish Invasion--Tuartko II. and Ostoya Christich--Cruel Death of Stephen Thomasovich--His Tomb--Queen Cattarina--Duchy of Santo Saba becomes a Roman Province--Despotism of Bosnian Kapetans--Janissaries--Fall of Sultan Selim and Bairaktar--Mahmoud--Jelaludin Pacha--Expedition against Montenegro--Death of Jelaludin--Ali Pacha--Revolted Provinces reconquered-- Successes of Ibrahim Pacha--Destruction of Janissaries-- Regular Troops organised--Hadji Mustapha--Abdurahim-- Proclamation--Fall of Serayevo--Fresh rising--Serayevo taken by Rebels--Scodra Pacha--Peace of Adrianople--Hussein Kapetan--Outbreak of Rebellion--Cruelty of Grand Vizier--Ali Aga of Stolatz--Kara Mahmoud--Serayevo taken--War with Montenegro--Amnesty granted 94--117

CHAPTER IX.. Hussein Pacha--Tahir Pacha--Polish and Hungarian

Hussein Pacha--Tahir Pacha--Polish and Hungarian Rebellions--Extends to Southern Slaves--Congress convened--Montenegrins overrun Herzegovina--Arrival of Omer Pacha--Elements of Discord--Rising in Bulgaria put down by Spahis--Refugees--Ali Rizvan Begovitch--Fall of Mostar, and Capture of Ali--His suspicious Death--Cavass Bashee--Anecdote of Lame Christian--Omer Pacha invades Montenegro--Successes--Austria interferes--Mission of General Leiningen--Battle of Grahovo--Change of Frontier--Faults of new Boundary 118--127

CHAPTER X.. Insurrection of Villagers--Attack Krustach--Three Villages

Insurrection of Villagers--Attack Krustach--Three Villages burnt--Christian Version--Account given by Dervisch Pacha--Deputation headed by Pop Boydan--Repeated Outrages by Rebels--Ali Pacha of Scutari--His want of Ability--Greek Chapels sacked--Growth of Rebellion--Omer Pacha restored to Favour--Despatched to the Herzegovina--Proclamation--Difficulties to be encountered--Proposed Interview between Omer Pacha and Prince of Montenegro--Evaded by the Prince--Omer Pacha returns to Mostar--Preparations for Campaign 128--140

CHAPTER XI.. Leave Mostar for the Frontier--Mammoth Tombstones--Stolatz--

Leave Mostar for the Frontier--Mammoth Tombstones--Stolatz-- Castle and Town--Christian Shopkeeper--Valley of the Stolatz--Disappearance of River--Temporary Camp--My Dalmatian Servant--Turkish Army Doctors--Numerical Force of the Turks--Health of the Army--Bieliki--Decapitation of Prisoners--Christian Cruelty 141--164

CHAPTER XII.. Tzernagora--Collusion Between Montenegrins and Rebels--Turks

Tzernagora--Collusion between Montenegrins and Rebels--Turks abandon System of Forbearance--Chances of Success--Russian Influence--Private Machination--M. Hecquard--European Intervention--Luca Vukalovich--Commencement of Hostilities--Dervisch Pacha--Advance on Gasko--Baniani-- Bashi Bazouks--Activity of Omer Pacha--Campaigning in Turkey--Line of March--Pass of Koryta--The Halt--National Dance--'La Donna Amabile'--Tchernitza--Hakki Bey--Osman Pacha--Man with Big Head--Old Tower-- Elephantiasis--Gasko--Camp Life--Moslem Devotions--Character of Turkish Troops--System of Drill--Peculation--Turkish Army--Letters--Scarcity of Provisions--Return of Villagers 155--173

CHAPTER XIII.. Expedition to Niksich--Character of Scenery--Engineer

Expedition to Niksich--Character of Scenery--Engineer Officers--Want of Maps--Affghan Dervish--Krustach--Wallack Colonel--Bivouac--Bashi Bazouks--Pass of Dougah--Plain of Niksich--Town and Frontier--Albanian Mudir--Turkish Women--Defects of Government by Mudir and Medjlis 174--189

CHAPTER XIV.. Return to Gasko--Thunderstorm--Attacked by Rebels--Enemy

Return to Gasko--Thunderstorm--Attacked by Rebels--Enemy repulsed--Retrograde Movement--Eventful Night--Turkish Soldiers murdered--Montenegrin Envoy--Coal-Pit--Entrenched Camp assaulted--Return of Omer Pacha to Mostar--Distinctive Character of Mahometan Religion--Naval Reorganisation-- Military Uniforms--Return to Mostar--Dervisch Bey--Zaloum-- Express Courier--Giovanni--Nevresign--Fortified Barrack-- Mostar--Magazine--Barracks--Wooden Block-houses--European Commission--Tour of the Grand Vizier--Enquiry into Christian Grievances--Real Causes of Complaint--Forcible Abduction of Christian Girls--Prince Gortschakoff's Charges--The Meredits--Instincts of Race 190--214

CHAPTER XV.. Excursion to Blato--Radobolya--Roman Road--Lichnitza--

Excursion to Blato--Radobolya--Roman Road--Lichnitza-- Subterraneous Passage--Duck-shooting--Roman Tombs--Coins and Curiosities--Boona--Old Bridge--Mulberry Trees--Blagai--Source of Boona River--Kiosk--Castle--Plain of Mostar--Legends--Silver Ore--Mineral Products of Bosnia--Landslip--Marbles--Rapids--Valley of the Drechnitza 215--226

CHAPTER XVI.. Wealthy Christians--German Encyclopædia--Feats of

Wealthy Christians--German Encyclopædia--Feats of Skill--Legend of Petral--Chamois-hunting--Valley of Druga--Excavations--Country Carts--Plain of Duvno--Mahmoud Effendi--Old Tombs--Duvno--Fortress--Bosnian Frontier--Vidosa--Parish Priest--National Music--Livno-- Franciscan Convent--Priestly Incivility--Illness--Quack Medicines--Hungarian Doctor--Military Ambulance--Bosna Serai--Osman Pacha--Popularity--Roads and Bridges--Mussulman Rising in Turkish Croatia--Energy of Osman Pacha 227--242

CHAPTER XVII.. Svornik--Banialuka--New Road--Sport--Hot Springs--Ekshesoo--

Svornik--Banialuka--New Road--Sport--Hot Springs--Ekshesoo-- Mineral Waters--Celebrated Springs--Goitre--The Bosna--Trout Fishing--Tzenitza--Zaptiehs--Maglai--Khans--Frozen Roads--Brod--The Save--Austrian Sentry--Steamer on the Save--Gradiska--Cenovatz--La lingua di tré Regni--Culpa River--Sissek--Croatian Hotel--Carlstadt Silk--Railway to Trieste--Moravian Iron--Concentration of Austrian Troops--Probable Policy--Watermills--Semlin--Belgrade 243--258

SERVIA:

Its Social, Political, and Financial Condition 261--285

CONCLUSION 286

Appendix 287--288

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

A MOONLIGHT BIVOUAC Frontispiece.

OFFICIAL SEAL OF OMER PACHA On Title-page.

SIGNATURE OF AUTHOR IN TURKISH CHARACTERS page vi

MAP OF MONTENEGRO To face page 1

MAP OF SLAVONIC PROVINCES OF EUROPEAN TURKEY " 288

HERZEGOVINA.

CHAPTER I.. Object of Travels--Start--Mad Woman--Italian

Object of Travels--Start--Mad Woman--Italian Patriot--Zara--Sebenico--Falls of Kerka--Dalmatian Boatmen--French Policy and Austrian Prospects--Spalatro--Palace of Diocletian--Lissa--Naval Action--Gravosa--Ragusa--Dalmatian Hotel--Change of Plans.

'Omer Pacha will proceed with the army of Roumelia to quell the disturbance in Herzegovina.' Such, I believe, was the announcement which confirmed me in the idea of visiting the Slavonic provinces of European Turkey. Had any doubts existed in my mind of the importance attached by the Ottoman government to the pacification of these remote districts, the recall to favour of Omer Pacha, and the despatch of so large a force under his command, would have sufficed to remove them. As it was, the mere desire to keep myself au courant of the events of the day, together with the interest which all must feel in the condition of a country for whom England has sacrificed so much blood and treasure, had made me aware that some extraordinary manifestation of feeling must have occurred to arouse that apathetic power to so energetic a measure. Of the nature of this manifestation, little or no reliable information could be obtained; and so vague a knowledge prevails touching the condition of these provinces, that I at once perceived that personal observation alone could put me in possession of it. The opinions of such as did profess to have devoted any attention to the subject, were most conflicting. Whilst some pronounced the point at issue to be merely one between the Turkish government and a few rebellious brigands, others took a far more gloomy view of the matter, believing that the first shot fired would prove the signal for a general rising of the Christian subjects of the Porte, which, in its turn, was to lead to the destruction of Turkish suzerainty in Europe, and to the consummation of the great Panslavish scheme. To satisfy myself on these points, then, was the main object of my travels,--to impart to others the information which I thus obtained, is the intention of this volume.

On August 31, 1861, I left Trieste in the Austrian Lloyd's steamer, bound for Corfu, and touching en route at the ports on the Dalmatian coast. Having failed in all my endeavours to ascertain the exact whereabouts of the Turkish head-quarters, I had secured my passage to Ragusa, reckoning on obtaining the necessary information from the Ottoman Consul at that town; and in this I was not disappointed.

It is not my intention to enlarge upon this portion of my travels, which would indeed be of little interest; still less to tread in the steps of Sir Gardner Wilkinson, whose valuable work on Dalmatia has rendered such a course unnecessary; but rather to enter, with log-like simplicity, the dates of arrival and departure at the various ports, and such-like interesting details of sea life. If, however, my landsman-like propensities should evince themselves by a lurking inclination to 'hug the shore,' I apologise beforehand.

My fellow-passengers were in no way remarkable, but harmless enough, even including an unfortunate mad woman, whose mania it was to recount unceasingly the ill-treatment to which she had been exposed. At times, her indignation against her imaginary tormentors knew no bounds; at others, she would grow touchingly plaintive on the subject of her wrongs. That she was a nuisance, I am fain to confess; but the treatment she experienced at the hands of her Dalmatian countrymen was inconsiderate in the extreme. One who professed himself an advocate for sudden shocks, put his theory into practice by stealing quietly behind his patient, and cutting short her lugubrious perorations with a deluge of salt water. This was repeated several times, but no arguments would induce her to allow her wet clothes to be removed, so it would not be surprising if this gentleman had succeeded in 'stopping her tongue' beyond his expectations. The only other lady was young and rather pretty, but dismally sentimental. She doated on roses, was enamoured of camelias, and loved the moon and the stars, and in fact everything in this world or out of it. In vain I tried to persuade her that her cough betrayed pulmonary symptoms, and that night air in the Adriatic was injurious to the complexion.

The man-kind on board included an Austrian officer of engineers, a French Consul, and a Dalmatian professor. Besides the above, there was an Italian patriot, whose devotion to the 'Kingmaker' displayed itself in a somewhat eccentric fashion. With much mystery, he showed me a portrait of Garibaldi, secreted in a watchkey seal, while his waistcoat buttons and shirt studs contained heads of those generals who served in the campaign of the Two Sicilies. It was rather a novel kind of hero-worship, though, I fear, likely to be little appreciated by him who inspired the thought.

September 1.--Landed at Zara at 6.30 A.M., and passed a few hours in wandering over the town and ramparts. These last are by no means formidable, and convey very little idea of the importance which was attached to the city in the time of the Venetian Republic. The garrison is small, and, as is the case throughout Dalmatia, the soldiers are of Italian origin. The Duomo is worthy of a visit; while the antiquarian may find many objects of interest indicative of the several phases of Zarantine history. Here, in a partially obliterated inscription, he may trace mementos of Imperial Rome; there, the Campanile of Santa Maria tells of the dominion of Croatian kings; while the winged lion ever reminds him of the glory of the Great Republic, its triumphs, its losses, and its fall. On leaving we were loudly cheered by the inhabitants, who had collected in large numbers on the shore. A few hours' run brought us abreast of Fort St. Nicholas, and ten minutes later we dropped anchor in the harbour of Sebenico. Here the delight of the people at our arrival was somewhat overwhelming. It vented itself in an inordinate amount of hugging and kissing, to say nothing of the most promiscuous hand-shaking, for a share of which I myself came in. My first step was to negotiate with four natives to row me to the Falls of Kerka, about three hours distant. This I had succeeded in doing, when, having unfortunately let them know that I was English, they demanded seven florins in place of four, as had been originally agreed. Resolving not to give way to so gross an imposition, I was returning in quest of another boat, when I met a troop of some six or seven girls, young, more than averagely good-looking, and charmingly dressed in their national costume. I presume that my T.G. appearance must have amused them; for they fairly laughed,--not a simpering titter, but a good honest laugh. To them I stated my case, and received a proper amount of sympathy. One offered to row me herself, while another said something about 'twenty florins and a life,'--which, whatever it may have meant, brought a blush to the cheek of the pretty little volunteer. At this juncture the boatmen arrived, and on my assurance that I was perfectly satisfied with the company to which they had driven me, which my looks, I suppose, did not belie, they came to terms. Leaving the bay at its NW. extremity, where the Kerka flows into it, we proceeded about four miles up that river. At this point it opens out into the Lake of Scardona, which is of considerable size, and affords a good anchorage. There is an outlet for the river to the N., close to which is situated the little town of Scardona. The banks of the river here begin to lose their rocky and precipitous appearance, assuming a more marshy character, which renders it unhealthy in the summer. The Falls are approached by a long straight reach, at the end of which they form a kind of semicircle, the entire breadth being about 250 feet. In winter, or after heavy rains, the effect must be very grand; but at the time of my visit they were, in consequence of the great drought, unusually small. Below the falls is a mill worked by a Levantine, who appears to drive a flourishing trade, grinding corn for Sebenico, Zara, and many other places on the coast.

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