Part 23

The two other churches founded by Abbot Ulsinus are those of St. Stephen and St. Michael.

St. Stephen's Church stands 3/4 mile S.W. from the Clock Tower, at the junction of the roads from Edgware and Watford. It was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1861-62; but still retains some ancient features; e.g., the late Norman arch in N. wall, formerly in part separating the nave from the N. aisle (now absent), and two Norman windows, widely splayed, in W. wall. Note (1) brass eagle-lectern, believed to have been formerly in the Abbey at Holyrood; (2) double piscina in S. aisle; (3) fifteenth century font. The oldest brass, much worn, is in the S. chapel; it is to the memory of William Robins, Clerk of the Signet to Edward IV., (d. 1482) and Katherine his wife.

St. Michael's Church, about 3/4 mile W. from the Clock Tower, stands on gently rising ground close to the carriage road to Gorhambury. It is believed to occupy, approximately, the centre of what was the ancient city of Verulam (q.v.) and to mark the site of a Roman temple. It has been restored, and the tower rebuilt, by Lord Grimthorpe; the work was only completed two or three years ago. Flint and tiles taken from the surrounding ruins by the builders still exist in the walls; but repeated restorations have almost obliterated the evidences of its antiquity. There are brasses (1) to Thomas Wolvey, an Esquire to Richard II. (d. 1430); (2) to "John Pecok et Maud sa femme" (circa 1340-50); but the monument of paramount interest is that in the recess N. of the chancel, to Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans (d. 9th April, 1626). The great philosopher and Lord Chancellor is represented as sitting in a tall chair, leaning his head upon his left hand; a Jacobean ruff is round his neck and a wide hat upon his head; the sculptor (unknown) has succeeded admirably in imparting an air of abstraction to the countenance. Of Bacon's house at Gorhambury, 11/2 mile farther W., little remains except some fragments of wall and tower, with projecting entrance porch. In the yet remaining spandrels of the arches are medallions of Roman Emperors; over the porch are the arms of Elizabeth. The present mansion, a little E. from the ruins, was commenced in 1778 by James third Viscount Grimston; it has been considerably altered, but retains the grand N. portico; the pediment, supported by ten Corinthian columns, reaches to the roof. The hall is very large, and contains portraits of Francis Bacon, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and other worthies. There are numerous pictures in other apartments, including portraits of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Stafford, Queen Elizabeth, Robert Devereux, Catherine of Braganza and William Pitt.

There were three monastic institutions on the outskirts of the town:--

(1) The Leper Hospital of St. Julian, founded by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, on a spot close to St. Stephen's Church. Of this no vestige remains.

(2) The Hospital of St. Mary de Pre, for women-lepers, founded about fifty years after the above by Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot, on either side of the old Watling Street. Some of the graves in the churchyard attached to the hospital were visible so recently as 1827, and the cottages known as the "Three Chimnies," originally part of the hospital itself, were pulled down in 1849.

(3) Sopwell Nunnery, founded by Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140, at a spot a little S. from the Old London Road, on the river Ver. The masses of ivy-mantled ruins still to be seen, and usually called the "ruins of Sopwell Nunnery," are, at least for the most part, the remains of the house built by Sir Richard Lee, to whom the manor was granted at the Dissolution.

ST. ALBANS ABBEY.--The Abbey has been so repeatedly altered and restored that it may be said to illustrate every style of ecclesiastical architecture from Norman to the present time. Opinions differ widely as to the merits of that scheme of renovation and innovation completed under the direction and by the munificence of Lord Grimthorpe, and no attempt will be here made to criticise or extol the work of so great an expert. Such a description of the venerable Abbey as an architect might love to write would fill a volume in this series. After careful consideration I have decided to sketch its history in such a way as to show, however imperfectly, how it came to be what it is. I have been careful to compare many authorities and to follow the consensus of testimony wherever I have found discrepancy or contradiction.

It has already been stated that, according to Gildas, Bede and other authorities, a church was erected on Holmhurst Hill after the martyrdom of St. Alban. Concerning that church we know little more than that it was almost destroyed by the Saxons. In 793, or very near that date, Offa II., who had murdered the East Anglian King, Ethelbert, resolved to found a monastery, encouraged, as we learn from William of Malmesbury, by Charlemagne. The monastery was duly founded, for an abbot and 100 Benedictine monks, and the little church, renovated, became the original abbey of the foundation. Having discovered the bones of St. Alban and placed them in a costly reliquary, Offa conveyed them to this church, intending to erect a nobler edifice for their reception; but it is doubtful whether the design was carried out during his lifetime. Indeed, we know little as to that enlarging and adornment of the church which must surely have been effected in the days of the early abbots, and the first hints of the erection of the great abbey occur in the lives of Ealdred and Eadmer, eighth and ninth abbots, who collected immense quantities of red, tile-like Roman bricks from the ruins of Verulam; Matthew Paris tells us that Eadmer made some progress in the actual rebuilding of the church. The twelfth abbot, Leofstan (d. 1066), enriched the building with "certain ornaments"; but it was the fourteenth abbot, Paul de Caen (1077-97), who, using the vast stores of material collected by his predecessors, entirely rebuilt the church on a scale almost commensurate with its present size.

The rebuilding of the Abbey Church by Abbot Paul de Caen occupied eleven years. When completed, it was certainly one of the noblest and largest structures in the kingdom. The length of this cruciform Norman church was 426 feet. (The extreme length is now 550, due to additions presently mentioned.) On the E. side of either transept were two apsidal chapels, the one adjoining the presbytery aisle being in each case the larger of the two; there was also an apse at the E. end of the presbytery. A square, battlemented tower flanked the W. front on either side; but the chief glory of Abbot Paul's church was undoubtedly the enormous Norman tower of four stages, triforium, clerestory, ringing-floor and belfry, surmounted by parapets and flanked by angle turrets, of which such considerable portions yet remain. Visitors who saw the Abbey thirty years ago saw the E. portion of the nave, the transepts and the tower substantially as built by Abbot Paul de Caen. The new Abbey was dedicated 1115.

Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth abbot (1119-46), placed the relics of St. Alban in a new shrine.

Robert de Gorham, eighteenth abbot (1161-67), erected the Chapter House and Locutory (Abbot's Cloister); his successor, Symeon (1167-83), completed the erection and embellishment of the Shrine of St. Alban, raising its height so that it could be seen from the High Altar. During his abbacy the relics of St. Amphibalus were brought to St. Albans, and the shrine of that saint was eventually erected in the E. aisle. The Chapel of St. Cuthbert in the Baptistery, built by Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119), was also dedicated about this time.

Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot (1183-95), placed the relics of St. Amphibalus in a feretry, enriching it with gold and silver ornamentation. He placed it behind the High Altar, near the feretry of St. Alban.

John de Cella, twenty-first abbot (1195-1214), commenced to rebuild the W. front, notably the three fine E.E. porches now replaced by those of Lord Grimthorpe, but the work was completed by his successor William de Trumpyntone (1214-35), who added the two flanking towers. This abbot erected the rood screen between the nave and choir, added the octagon above the tower after removing the Norman turrets and parapets, and probably built those E.E. bays on each side of the nave which are nearest to the W. front. He also restored portions of the S. transept and S. aisle, and rebuilt St. Cuthbert's Chapel on the spot now partly occupied by the Rood Screen.

The E. end of the Abbey next received the attention of these architect-abbots. Commencing at the second bay E. from the tower, John de Hertford (1235-60) almost entirely replaced the Norman and E.E. work of his predecessors by work which merged into a graceful E. Dec. The work was carried on by his immediate successors, doubtless sadly hindered by the turbulent state of the times. John de Norton (1260-90) built the S. aisle of the Retro-choir, and part of the Lady-chapel, but his work was supplemented by that of John de Berkhampstead (1291-1302). John de Marinis (1302-8) removed the feretry and tomb of St. Alban to the position which it occupied until about the time of the Dissolution and spent 820 marks in the erection of a tomb of Purbeck marble. Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) built the five moulded Dec. bays of the S. aisle, replacing the Norman work, which had given way, and completed the Lady-chapel at the extreme E., thereby greatly increasing the length of the entire building. There was subsequently, however, for a long period, a passage between the Retro-choir and the Lady-chapel.

Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1335-49) completed the restoration of the S. aisle and repaired the Cloister. His successor, Thomas de la Mere, paved the W. floor, and no doubt minor restorations were almost continually in progress during the latter half of the fourteenth century; but a new chapter in the story of the Abbey commenced when John de Wheathampsted became abbot (1420-40 and 1451-64). This celebrated man, during the two periods of his abbacy, hardly rested in his efforts to beautify the Abbey. It is stated in a Cottonian MS. that this abbot constructed a little chapel near the shrine of St. Alban; this was perhaps the Watching Loft (N. of Saint's Chapel) in which the keeper of the holy shrine and relics (Custos Feretri) spent much of his time. John de Wheathampsted also built the tomb of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester (d. 1447), on the side of the chapel opposite the Watching Loft (a few steps lead down to the coffin); prepared his own tomb W. from that of the duke; built the great Perp. window over the W. porches, now replaced by one Dec. in design, and the nine N. windows of Nave and Ante-Choir; and was probably responsible for the paintings discovered on the choir ceiling, and for many of the embellishments of the Lady-chapel. Perhaps, however, his fame chiefly rests on the High Altar Screen, which he designed, but which was erected by the thirty-sixth abbot, William Wallingford (1476-84).

There were apparently few important features added to the Abbey, and but little restoration effected during the rule of the last four abbots (1492-1539). A few brief paragraphs concerning its modern restorations and present appearance must now be added.

Those modern restorations date largely from the middle of last century. Its condition, internally and externally, was at that time certainly discreditable to everybody concerned in its welfare. In 1856 a National Committee placed the matter in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, under whose direction the building was in part restored; but public funds presently failed and in 1879 the direction of the workers was undertaken by one who had at once the inclination and the funds necessary to its completion--Lord Grimthorpe.

The Abbey, from the W. porches to the E. end of the Lady-chapel and the Chapel of Transfiguration, measures inside 520 feet, outside 550 feet; the entire transept length from N. to S., on the floor, 177 feet; the nave, the longest Gothic one in the world, 292 feet x 75 feet 4 inches; the Lady-chapel, 57 feet x 24 feet; the great Screens are rather less than 170 feet apart; the height of the tower is 144 feet. Visitors will find some slight discrepancies as to measurements in the several guides which have been compiled; but the foregoing figures will assist them to realise the vast dimensions of the building. Its area is approximately 40,000 square feet. Of special interest are:--

(1) The Tower, which is seen to greater advantage since Sir Gilbert Scott removed the exterior plaster, thus exposing the wonderfully preserved Roman tiles with which it was faced by Abbot Paul de Caen. The four enormous piers upon which it rests were weakened by the ignorance of early restorers, who cut into them freely, and dug graves in such manner as to imperil their foundations. The most arduous work of Sir Gilbert Scott was the strengthening of these piers, effected piecemeal by partial reconstruction of the piers themselves and by laying a durable substratum of cement right down to the chalk. The fine ring of eight bells was rehung. Visitors will find the ascent of the spiral staircase long and arduous, but will be rewarded by the almost unrivalled view from between the merlons on its summit.

(2) St. Alban's Shrine (in the Saint's Chapel between the Altar Screen and the Lady-chapel), already referred to (p. 188), disappeared about the time of the suppression of the monastery (1539), and all traces of it were lost except the fragment of Purbeck marble marking its former site on the chapel floor. Yet that shrine, its genuineness unquestioned, stands to-day on the site which it occupied centuries ago! Hundreds of fragments of Purbeck marble were discovered when the central arches of the Lady-chapel were opened by Dr. Nicholson previous to the restorations of Sir Gilbert Scott. Subsequently, other fragments were discovered and the whole collection, the importance of which was suspected, was pieced together with indefatigable ingenuity by the late John Chapple. The feretry itself, mentioned by Matthew Paris, which was supposed to contain the relic of the martyr, has not, and probably never will be, discovered. The vaulted niches are of clunch, but the rest of the shrine is of Purbeck marble. Note the beautiful tracery of these groined niches, the cusps of the arches and crocketted pediments, and the carvings in the tympana, representing scenes from the martyrdom of SS. Alban and Amphibalus.

(3) Shrine of St. Amphibalus (in N. aisle of presbytery). This was discovered in fragments and pieced together in the same manner as that of St. Alban. The whole, however, is of clunch, and, unfortunately, incomplete. Note the fret-like sculpture round the basement, and the name of the saint (imperfect) in carved capitals.

(4) High Altar Screen, or screen of Abbot Wallingford (restored at the expense of Lord Aldenham); is in point of size, as in beauty, perhaps unique in England. Note its resemblance to that at Winchester. It was much dilapidated, its many statues having been entirely destroyed at the time of the Reformation; but its restoration has been admirably executed, the figures of SS. Alban and Amphibalus being especially noticeable: the latter wears a Celtic, not a Roman tonsure. Note also the figures of our Lord and His apostles in alabaster, and those of Adrian IV., Bede, Hugh of Lincoln, St. Edmund and many others.

(5) Chantry Tombs of Abbot Ramryge and Abbot John Wheathampsted, occupying respectively the last arches of N. and S. side of the Sanctuary. Note the fine late Perp. work of the former, and the Wheathampsted arms, three wheat-ears, on the latter.

(6) The Lady-chapel (enter through Retro-choir). This formerly contained much of the finest work in the Abbey and traces of it are still retained, despite its repeated and entire restoration. The present vaulted roof of real stone replaces that of imitation stone built by Abbot Hugh de Eversden. In post-Reformation days it was long used as the Grammar School; but since the removal of the school to the Old Gate House (1869) the chapel has gradually been brought into its present state. Many of its most beautiful features--tracery, mouldings, statuettes, carvings, etc.--had, however, been completely destroyed by the boys. The marble pavement is new; the stained glass in the E. window was presented by the Corporation of London. Note the wonderful variety of carved flowers and fruits with which this chapel is embellished.

From Grose's Antiquities (vol. viii.) I quote the following:--

"Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather, by the mother's side, to Mrs. Shrimpton of St. Albans, was four times mayor of that town; he died about sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He lived when the Abbey of St. Alban flourished before the Dissolution and remembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, the regimen of the house, the ceremonies of the church ... all of which he would often discourse in his life-time. Among other things, that in the Great Hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abbot's table, to which the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at every fifth step, which was a resting-place, at every of which they sung a short hymn. The abbot usually sat alone in the middle of the table; and when any nobleman or ambassador or stranger of eminent quality came thither they sat at his table towards the end thereof. When the monks had waited a while on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables, placed on the sides of the hall and had their service brought in by novices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner."

First Battle of St. Albans.--On May 23rd, 1455, the forces of King Henry VI. assembled in the neighbourhood of St. Peter's Street, and were attacked by those of the Duke of York and Warwick the Kingmaker. Advancing from the fields E. of the town, Warwick's men appear to have approached from Key Fields and Sopwell Lane, and, finally, having fought their way into Holywell Hill, to have united with those of the Duke of York, who had forced the town barriers farther N. The battle was desperately contested; the bowmen, as usual in those times, playing a conspicuous part; Henry VI. was wounded in the neck, Humphrey Earl of Stafford in the right hand, Lord Sudley and the Duke of Buckingham in the face--all with arrows. The wounded king took refuge in the cottage of a tanner; here he was made prisoner and conducted by the Duke of York to the Abbey. The town was at the mercy of the Yorkist soldiers during the latter part of the day; many houses were looted and the Abbey was probably spared only because the royal prisoner had been conducted thither. Several illustrious persons slain in this battle were buried in the Lady-chapel: (1) Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland; (2) Edmund Beaufort, first Duke of Somerset; (3) John, Lord Clifford. Sir Robert Vere, Sir William Chamberlain, Sir Richard Fortescue, Kts., and many squires and other gentlemen also perished.