Part 20

Glaucium Flavum Tricolor (Hardy Horn Poppy).--The large, brilliant, orange-red flowers of this plant are very effective in the border, and the bloom is continuous during the greater part of the summer. The seed is rather slow to germinate, but when sown in the open ground in autumn, it blooms from June to August; when sown in early spring it flowers from July to September. Height, 2 ft.

Glaux Maritima (Sea Milkweed).--A pretty little hardy trailing plant bearing flesh-coloured flowers in June and July. It grows in sandy loam, and is raised from seed sown in spring. Height, 3 in.

Globe Amaranthus (Gomphrena).--This tender annual is well known for its clover-like heads of everlasting flowers. It will grow in any rich soil, but to produce really fine plants, much attention must be given to shifting, watering, etc. Increased by seed in the same manner as other tender annuals. Blooms in July. Height, 1 ft.

Globe Flower.--See "Trollius."

Globe Thistle.--See "Echinops."

Globularia Trichosantha.--A pretty dwarf perennial rock-plant bearing pale blue flowers in May and June. It is hardy, thrives in light, sandy soil, and is increased by either seeds or cuttings planted in sand. Height, 6 in. The greenhouse varieties of Globularia grow best in loam and peat.

Glory of the Snow.--See "Chionodoxa."

Gloxinias.--A very ornamental family of tuberous-rooted hothouse plants. They are of two classes, the drooping and the erect. Pot at any time during January and March in a mixture of equal quantities of loam, peat, and sand, with the addition of a little vegetable soil, and place in a warm (60 degrees), moist temperature, where they can be favoured with a little shade. In summer supply the roots plentifully with water, but give them very little in winter. Overhead watering is likely to rot the leaves and flowers. G. Maculata is increased by division. The leaves of most of the others, if taken off close to the stem, and planted, will soon make young plants. They may be raised from seed sown from March to July in a hothouse or frame having a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees. They flower in June, and on into September. Height, 6 in. to 1 ft.

Glycine.--See "Wistaria" and "Apios."

Gnaphalium (Edelweiss).--Hardy everlasting flowers, which are covered with a woolly substance. They may be grown in any light, rich soil. The shrubby and herbaceous kinds may be increased by cuttings or division. The annuals are easily raised from seed. They flower in July. Height, 1 ft.

Goat's Rue.--See "Galega."

Godetia.--Very pretty hardy annuals, that may be grown in any garden soil. Sow in the autumn for early flowering, or in spring for later blooms. July is their ordinary season of coming into flower. Height, 1-1/2 ft. to 2 ft.

Golden Feather.--Hardy annual foliage plants. They are not particular as to soil, and are easily raised from seed sown early in spring. They bloom in July. Height, 1 ft.

Golden Rod.--See "Solidago."

Gompholobium.--Delicate greenhouse evergreen shrubs requiring a soil of sandy loam and peat and but little water. They flower in June, and are propagated by cuttings planted in sand under glass. Height, 2 ft.

Gomphrena.--See "Globe Amaranthus."

Gooseberries.--From the middle of October to the end of November is the best time for planting. To produce good crops the soil should be rich, deep, and well drained. The position should be somewhat cool and sheltered, and a liberal quantity of liquid manure is beneficial. In dry seasons mulching may be resorted to with advantage. Cuttings are taken in autumn as soon as the leaves begin to fall. Select strong shoots about 1 ft. long. Cut the bottom end straight across, just below a joint, and with a sharp knife remove all the buds or eyes from the base to within a couple of inches of the top, so as to prevent the formation of suckers. Plant the shoots firmly 3 in. deep, in rows 1 ft. apart and 6 in. apart in the rows, on a north border. At the end of the second season cut back all leading shoots to two-thirds of their length. In after years remove weak and superfluous branches, as also any that are growing near the ground, but plenty of young wood must always be left on the bushes. The pruning may be done either in spring or autumn. The following varieties may be recommended:--Red, White, and Yellow Champagne, Wilmot's Early Red, Golden Drop, Ironmonger, and Warrington Red for dessert; while for preserving and culinary purposes Old Rough Red, Conquering Hero, Favourite, Broom Girl, British Crown, Ironsides, Lady Leicester, Thumper, Green Walnut, Leader, and Moreton Hero may be classed among the leading varieties. When grown in bush form ample room must be allowed between each to enable one to get round the bushes to gather the fruit.

Gooseberry Caterpillar.--To prevent caterpillars attacking Gooseberries syringe the bushes with a decoction of common foxglove (Digitalis), or dust the leaves with Hellebore powder. If the caterpillar has begun its attack, sprinkle some fresh lime below the bushes, and shake the bushes vigorously, so that the insects are dislodged.

Gorse.--See "Ulex."

Gourds.--Sow at the end of March or the beginning of April on a slight hotbed; pot off when the plants are sufficiently advanced, and transplant to the open border in June. They are well adapted for arbours, trellis-work, or sloping banks. The following are among the most ornamental:--Abobra Viridiflora, Benincasa Cerifera (Wax Gourd), Bryonopsis Erythrocarpa, Coccinea Indica (scarlet fruit), Cucumis Anguinus (Serpent Gourd), Cucumis Dipsaceus (Teasel Gourd), Cucumis Dudaim (Balloon Gourd), Cucumis Erinaceus (Hedgehog Gourd), Cucumis Grossularoides (Gooseberry Gourd), Cucumis Perennis, Cucurbita Argyrosperma, Cucurbita Melopepo, Cyclanthera Explodens (Bombshell Gourd), Cyclanthera Pedata, Eopepon Aurantiacum, Eopepon Vitifolius, Lagenaria Clavata (Club Gourd), Lagenaria Enormis, Lagenaria Leucantha Depressa, Lagenaria Leucantha Longissima, Lagenaria Plate de Corse, Lagenaria Poire a Poudre, Lagenaria Siphon, Luffa Cylindrica, Luffa Solly Qua, Melothria Scabra, Momordica Balsamina, Momordica Charantia, Momordica Elaterium, Mukia Scabrella, Scotanthus Tubiflorus, Trichosanthes Anguina, Trichosanthes Coccinea, Trichosanthes Colubrina, and Trichosanthes Palmata.

Grafting.--The objects of Grafting are to bring a bush or tree into an earlier state of bearing than it would do naturally; to produce good fruit from an inferior plant; and to save space by putting dwarf scions on to rampant-growing trees. By the process of uniting strong-growing trees to those of a weaker nature their exuberance is checked, and weaker ones are improved by being worked on those of a stronger growth. Whatever form of Grafting is adopted, the inner layers of the bark of the stock or tree on which the operation is performed, must be brought into direct contact with the inner layers of the bark of the branch which is grafted, or, as it is called, the scion. This scion should be a branch of the early growth of the previous year's wood, and should be in the same state of vegetation as the stock. If the scion is in a more advanced state than the stock, its growth may be stopped by cutting it off and burying it in the earth under a north wall until the stock has advanced sufficiently in growth. Grafting of all kinds is best done in March, when the sap is flowing freely. Many methods of Grafting are adopted, the following being the principal:--

Whip or Tongue Grafting is suitable for almost any description of trees. Saw the stock off level at any desired height, then make a deep upward slanting cut through the bark at the top 2 or 3 in. in length, and in the middle of the cut turn the knife downwards and cut out a thin wedge-shaped socket. Next cut the scion in a similar manner so that it will fit exactly into the incision of the stock, bringing the bark of each into direct contact. Bind it firmly in position, and cover it over, from the top of the stock to the bottom of the scion, with grafting wax or clay. When the scion and the stock are united, which is demonstrated by the former making growth, remove the wax and cut away all shoots that may be produced on the stock.

In the French mode of Grafting known as the Bertemboise, the crown of the stock is cut at a long level, about 1 in. at the top being left square, and an angular piece is cut away in which the scion is inserted. It is then bound and waxed over.

Theophrastes or Rind Grafting is used where a tree has strong roots but inferior fruit. The branches are cut off about 1-1/2 or 2 ft. from the main stem. A sharp cut 2 or 3 in. in length is made down the bark of the branches, and the lower parts of the scion, selected from a superior tree, having been cut into tongues resembling the mouth-piece of a flageolet, the bark of the branches is lifted with a knife, and the tongues of the scions are slipped in, bound, and waxed.

Side Grafting is useful where it is desired to replenish the tree with a fresh branch. A T-shaped cut is made in the stem of the tree, extending to the inner bark; the scion is prepared by a longitudinal sloping cut of the same length as that in the stem, into which it is inserted, and the two are bound together and treated like other grafts.

Approach Grafting is the most favourable method of obtaining choice varieties of the vine, or of growing weak sorts on roots of a stronger growth. The scion is generally grown in a pot. A portion of the bark is cut from both scion and stock while the vine is in active growth, and the two wounded parts brought into contact, so that they fit exactly. They are then tied together, and moss (kept constantly wet) is bound round the parts. The union may be completed by the following spring, but it is safer to leave the cutting down of the stock to the point of union and the separation of the scion from the potted plant until the second spring.

Grafting Wax (Cobbetts), etc.--Pitch and resin four parts each, beeswax two parts, tallow one part. Melt and mix the ingredients, and use when just warm. It may be rolled into balls and stored in a dry place.

Clay bands are frequently employed for excluding the air from wounds caused in the process of grafting. These are liable to crack, unless the clay is well kneaded and mixed with wood ashes or dry horse droppings.