Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone National Park

Part 1

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR HUBERT WORK, SECRETARY

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE STEPHEN T. MATHER, DIRECTOR

FOSSIL FORESTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON 1928

88781°—28——2

THE NATIONAL PARKS AT A GLANCE.

National parks Location. Area in Distinctive characteristics. in order of square creation. miles.

Hot Springs Middle 1½ 46 hot springs possessing 1832 Arkansas. curative properties—Many hotels and boarding houses—20 bath-houses under public control. Yellowstone Northwestern 3,348 More geysers than in all rest 1872 Wyoming. of world together—Boiling springs—Mud volcanoes—Petrified forests—Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, remarkable for gorgeous coloring—Large lakes—Many large streams and waterfalls—Vast wilderness, greatest wild bird and animal preserve in world—Exceptional trout fishing. Sequoia Middle 604 The Big Tree National 1890 eastern Park—Scores of sequoia trees 20 California. to 30 feet in diameter, thousands over 10 feet in diameter—Towering mountain ranges—Mount Whitney, highest peak in continental United States—Startling precipices—Cave of considerable size. Yosemite Middle 1,125 Valley of world-famed 1890 eastern beauty—Lofty cliffs—Romantic California. vistas—Many waterfalls of extraordinary height—3 groves of big trees—High Sierra—Waterwheel falls—Good trout fishing. General Grant Middle 4 Created to preserve the 1890 eastern celebrated General Grant Tree, California. 35 feet in diameter—6 miles from Sequoia National Park. Mount Rainier West central 325 Largest accessible single peak 1890 Washington. glacier system—28 glaciers, some of large size—48 square miles of glacier, 50 to 500 feet thick—Wonderful sub-alpine wild-flower fields. Crater Lake Southwestern 249 Lake of extraordinary blue in 1902 Oregon. crater of extinct volcano—Sides 1,000 feet high—Interesting lava formations—Fine fishing. Wind Cave South Dakota. 17 Cavern having many miles of 1903 galleries and numerous chambers containing peculiar formations. Platt Southern 1⅓ Many sulphur and other springs 1901 Oklahoma. possessing medicinal value. Sullys Hill North Dakota. 1⅕ Small park with woods, streams, 1904 and a lake—Is an important wild-animal preserve. Mesa Verde Southwestern 77 Most notable and best preserved 1906 Colorado. prehistoric cliff dwellings in United States, if not in the world. Glacier Northwestern 1,534 Rugged mountain region of 1910 Montana. unsurpassed Alpine character—250 glacier-fed lakes of romantic beauty—60 small glaciers—Precipices thousands of feet deep—Almost sensational scenery of marked individuality—Fine trout fishing. Rocky Mountain North middle 378 Heart of the Rockies—Snowy 1915 Colorado. range, peaks 11,000 to 14,250 feet altitude—Remarkable records of glacial period. Hawaii Hawaii. 242 Three separate areas—Kilauea 1916 and Mauna Loa on Hawaii, Haleakala on Maui. Lassen Volcanic Northern 124 Only active volcano in United 1916 California. States proper—Lassen Peak, 10,465 feet—Cinder Cone, 6,879 feet—Hot springs—Mud geysers. Mount McKinley South 2,645 Highest mountain in North 1917 central America—Rises higher above Alaska. surrounding country than any other mountain in the world. Grand Canyon North 1,009 The greatest example of erosion 1919 central and the most sublime spectacle Arizona. in the world. Lafayette Maine coast. 12 The group of granite mountains 1919 upon Mount Desert Island. Zion Southwestern 120 Magnificent gorge (Zion 1919 Utah. Canyon), depth from 1,500 to 2,500 feet, with precipitous walls—Of great beauty and scenic interest.

THE FOSSIL FORESTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.

By F. H. Knowlton, United States Geological Survey.

INTRODUCTION.

Isolated pieces of fossil wood are of comparatively common and widespread occurrence, especially in the more recent geological deposits of the West. Not infrequently scattered logs, stumps, and roots of petrified or lignitized trees are brought to light, but only exceptionally are they so massed and aggregated as to be worthy of the designation of fossil forests. Examples of such are the celebrated fossil forests of relatively late geological age near Cairo, Egypt, the huge prostrate trunks in the Napa Valley near Calistoga, Cal., and the geologically much older and far more extensive forests now widely known as the Petrified Forest National Monument in Apache County, Ariz. But in many respects the most remarkable fossil forests known are those now to be described in the Yellowstone National Park. In the forests first mentioned the trunks and logs were all prostrated before fossilization, and it is perhaps not quite correct to designate such aggregations as veritable fossil forests, though they usually are so called. In the fossil forests of Arizona, for example, which are scattered over many square miles of what is now almost desert, all the trunks show evidence of having been transported from a distance before they were turned to stone. Most of them are not even in the position in which they were originally entombed, but have been eroded from slightly higher horizons and have rolled in the greatest profusion to lower levels. As one views these Arizona forests from a little distance, with their hundreds, even thousands, of segments of logs, it is difficult to realize that they are really turned to stone and are now exhumed from the earth. The appearance they present (see fig. 1) is not unlike a “log drive” that has been stranded by the receding waters and left until the bark had disappeared and many logs had fallen into partial decay. Trunks of many sizes and lengths are now mingled and scattered about in the wildest profusion, and the surface of the ground is carpeted with fragments of wood that have been splintered and broken from them. In the Yellowstone National Park, however, most of the trees were entombed in the upright position in which they grew, by the outpouring of various volcanic materials, and as the softer rock surrounding them is gradually worn away they are left standing erect on the steep hillsides, just as they stood when they were living: in fact, it is difficult at a little distance to distinguish some of these fossil trunks from the lichen-covered stumps of kindred living species. Such an aggregation of fossil trunks is therefore well entitled to be called a true fossil forest. It should not be supposed, however, that these trees still retain their limbs and smaller branches, for the mass of volcanic material falling on them stripped them down to bare, upright trunks.

The fossil forests of the Yellowstone National Park cover an extensive area in the northern portion of the park, being especially abundant along the west side of Lamar River for about 20 miles above its junction with the Yellowstone. Here the land rises rather abruptly to a height of approximately 2,000 feet above the valley floor. It is known locally as Specimen Ridge, and forms an approach to Amethyst Mountain. There is also a small fossil forest containing a number of standing trunks near Tower Falls, and near the eastern border of the park along Lamar River in the vicinity of Cache, Calfee, and Miller Creeks, there are many more or less isolated trunks and stumps of fossil trees, but so far as known none of these are equal in interest to the fossil forest on the slopes of Specimen Ridge.

The fossil forests are reached over a road from the Mammoth Hot Springs, or from Camp Roosevelt near Tower Falls, and they are in their way quite as wonderful and worthy of attention as many of the other features for which the Yellowstone National Park is so justly celebrated.

Recently another extensive fossil forest has been found on the divide between the Gallatin and Yellowstone Rivers in the Gallatin Range of mountains, in Park and Gallatin Counties, Mont. This forest, which lies just outside the boundary of the Yellowstone National Park, is said to cover 35,000 acres and to contain some wonderfully well preserved upright trunks, many of them very large, equaling or perhaps even surpassing in size some of those within the limits of the park. Two of the best preserved of these trunks are shown in figures 2 and 3, which are here reproduced by the kindness of Mr. E. C. Alderson, of Bozeman, Mont.

In the beds of the streams and gulches coming down into the Lamar River from Specimen Ridge and the fossil forests one may observe numerous pieces of fossil wood, which may be traced for a long distance down the Lamar and Yellowstone Rivers. The farther these pieces of wood have been transported downstream, the more they have been worn and rounded, until ultimately they become smooth, rounded “pebbles” of the stream bed. The pieces of wood become more numerous and fresher in appearance upstream toward the bluffs, until at the foot of the cliffs in some places there are hundreds, perhaps thousands of tons that have but recently fallen from the walls above. One traversing the valley of the Lamar River may see at many places numerous upright fossil trunks in the faces of nearly vertical walls. These trunks are not all at a particular level but occur at irregular heights: in fact a section cut down through these 2,000 feet of beds would disclose a succession of fossil forests (see fig. 4). That is to say, after the first forest grew and was entombed, there was a time without volcanic outburst—a period long enough to permit a second forest to grow above the first. This in turn was covered by volcanic material and preserved, to be followed again by a period of quiet, and these more or less regular alternations of volcanism and forest growth continued throughout the time the beds were in process of formation.

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