Part 2

Messrs. Werlé and Co., successors to the Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin-- Their Offices and Cellars on the site of a Former Commanderie of the Templars-- Origin of the Celebrity of Madame Clicquot's Wines-- M. Werlé and his Son-- The Forty-five Cellars of the Clicquot-Werlé Establishment-- Our Tour of Inspection-- Ingenious Liqueuring Machine-- An Explosion and its Consequences-- M. Werlé's Gallery of Paintings-- Madame Clicquot's Renaissance House and its Picturesque Bas-reliefs-- The Werlé Vineyards and Vendangeoirs-- M. Louis Roederer's Establishment-- Heidsieck and Co. and their Famous "Monopole" Brand-- The Firm Founded in the Last Century-- Their various Establishments Inside and Outside Reims-- The Matured Wines Shipped by them 63

VII.--THE REIMS ESTABLISHMENTS (continued).

The Firm of G. H. Mumm and Co.-- Their Large Shipments to the United States-- Their Establishments in the Rue Andrieux and the Rue Coquebert-- Bottle-Washing with Glass Beads-- The Cuvée and the Tirage-- G. H. Mumm and Co.'s Vendangeoirs at Verzenay-- Their Various Wines-- The Gate of Mars-- The Establishment of M. Gustave Gibert on the Site of the Château des Archevêques-- His Cellars in the Vaults of St. Peter's Abbey and beneath the old Hôtel des Fermes in the Place Royale-- Louis XV. and Jean Baptiste Colbert-- M. Gibert's Wines-- Jules Mumm and Co., and Ruinart père et fils-- House of the Musicians-- The Counts de la Marck-- The Brotherhood of Minstrels of Reims-- Establishment of Périnet et fils-- Their Cellars of Three Stories in Solid Masonry-- Their Soft, Light, and Delicate Wines-- A Rare Still Verzenay-- M. Duchâtel-Ohaus's Establishment and Renaissance House-- His Cellars in the Cour St. Jacques and Outside the Porte Dieu-Lumière 74

VIII.--THE REIMS ESTABLISHMENTS (continued).

M. Ernest Irroy's Cellars, Vineyards, and Vendangeoirs-- Recognition by the Reims Agricultural Association of his Plantations of Vines-- His Wines and their Popularity at the best London Clubs-- Messrs. Binet fils and Co.'s Establishment-- Wines Sold by the Firm to Shippers-- Their Cellars-- Samples of Fine Still Ay and Bouzy-- Their Still Sillery, Vintage 1857, and their Creaming Vin Brut, Vintage 1865-- The Offices and Cellars of Messrs. Charles Farre and Co.-- Testing the Wine before Bottling-- A Promenade between Bottles in Piles and Racks-- Repute in which these Wines are held in England and on the Continent-- The New Establishment of Fisse, Thirion, and Co. in the Place de Betheny-- Its Construction exclusively in Stone, Brick, and Iron-- The Vast Celliers of Two Stories-- Bottling the Wine by the Aid of Machinery-- The Cool and Lofty Cellars-- Ingenious Method of Securing the Corks, rendering the Uncorking exceedingly simple-- The Wines Shipped by the Firm 86

IX.--THE REIMS ESTABLISHMENTS (concluded).

La Prison de Bonne Semaine-- Mary Queen of Scots at Reims-- Messrs. Pommery and Greno's Offices-- A Fine Collection of Faïence-- The Rue des Anglais a former Refuge of English Catholics-- Remains of the Old University of Reims-- Ancient Roman Tower and Curious Grotto-- The handsome Castellated Pommery Establishment-- The Spacious Cellier and Huge Carved Cuvée Tun-- The Descent to the Cellars-- Their Great Extent-- These Lofty Subterranean Chambers Originally Quarries-- Ancient Places of Refuge of the Early Christians and the Protestants-- Madame Pommery's Splendid Cuvée of 1868-- Messrs. de St. Marceaux and Co.'s New Establishment in the Avenue de Sillery-- Its Garden-Court and Circular Shaft-- Animated Scene in the Large Packing Hall-- Lowering Bottled Wine to the Cellars-- Great Depth and Extent of these Cellars-- Messrs. de St. Marceaux and Co.'s Various Wines 93

X.--EPERNAY CHAMPAGNE ESTABLISHMENTS.

Early Records of the Moët Family at Reims and Epernay-- Jean Remi Moët Founder of the Commerce in Champagne Wines-- Extracts from the Old Account-Books of the Moëts-- First Sales of Sparkling Wines-- Sales to England in 1788-- "Milords" Farnham and Findlater-- Jean Remi Moët receives the Emperor Napoleon, Josephine, and the King of Westphalia-- The Firm of Moët and Chandon Constituted-- Their Establishment in the Rue du Commerce-- Delivering and Washing the New Bottles-- The Numerous Vineyards and Vendangeoirs of the Firm-- Making the Cuvée in Vats of 12,000 Gallons-- The Bottling of the Wine by 200 Hands-- A Hundred Thousand Bottles Completed Daily-- 20,000 Francs' worth of Broken Glass in Two Years-- A Subterranean City, with miles of Streets, Cross Roads, Open Spaces, Tramways, and Stations-- The Ancient Entrance to these Vaults-- Tablet Commemorative of the Visit of Napoleon I.-- Millions of Bottles of Champagne in Piles and Racks-- The Original Vaults known as Siberia-- Scene in the Packing Hall-- Messrs. Moët and Chandon's Large and Complete Staff-- Provision for Illness and Old Age-- Annual Fête Given by the Firm-- Their Famous "Star" Brand-- M. Perrier-Jouët, the lucky Grandson of a little Epernay Grocer-- His Offices and Cellars-- His Wine Classed according to its Deserts-- Messrs. Roussillon and Co.'s Establishment-- The Recognition accorded to their Wines-- Their Stock of Old Vintages-- The Extensive Establishment of Messrs. Pol Roger and Co.-- Their Large Stock of the Fine 1874 Vintage-- Preparations for the Tirage-- Their Vast Fireproof Cellier and its Admirable Temperature-- Their Lofty and Capacious Cellars of Two Stories 101

XI.--CHAMPAGNE ESTABLISHMENTS AT AY AND MAREUIL.

The Establishment of Deutz and Geldermann-- Drawing off the Cuvée-- Mode of Excavating Cellars in the Champagne-- The Firm's New Cellars, Vineyards, and Vendangeoir-- The old Château of Ay and its Terraced Garden-- The Gambling Propensities of Balthazar Constance Dangé-Dorçay, a former Owner of the Château-- The Picturesque Situation and Aspect of Messrs. Ayala's Establishment-- A Promenade through their Cellars-- M. Duminy's Cellars and Wines-- His new Model Construction-- The House Founded in 1814-- Messrs. Bollinger's Establishment-- Their Vineyard of La Grange-- The Tirage in Progress-- The Fine Cellars of the Firm-- Messrs. Pfungst frères and Co.'s Cellars-- Their Dry Champagnes of 1868, '70, '72, and '74-- The Old Church of Ay and its Decorations of Grapes and Vineleaves-- The Vendangeoir of Henri Quatre-- The Montebello Establishment at Mareuil-- The Château formerly the Property of the Dukes of Orleans-- A Titled Champagne Firm-- The Brilliant Career of Marshal Lannes-- A Promenade through the Montebello Establishment-- The Press House, the Cuvée Vat, the Packing-Room, the Offices, and the Cellars-- Portraits and Relics at the Château-- The Establishment of Bruch-Foucher and Co.-- The handsome Carved Gigantic Cuvée Tun-- The Cellars and their Lofty Shafts-- The Wines of the Firm 117

XII.--CHAMPAGNE ESTABLISHMENTS AT ATIZE AND RILLY.

Avize the Centre of the White Grape District-- Its Situation and Aspect-- The Establishment of Giesler and Co.-- The Tirage and the Cuvée-- Vin Brut in Racks and on Tables-- The Packing-Hall, the Extensive Cellars, and the Disgorging Cellier-- Bottle Stores and Bottle-Washing Machines-- Messrs. Giesler's Wine-Presses at Avize and Vendangeoir at Bouzy-- Their Vineyards and their Purchases of Grapes-- Reputation of the Giesler Brand-- The Establishment of M. Charles de Cazanove-- A Tame Young Boar-- Boar-Hunting in the Champagne-- M. de Cazanove's Commodious Cellars and Carefully-Selected Wines-- Vineyards Owned by Him and His Family-- Reputation of his Wines in Paris and their Growing Popularity in England-- Interesting View from M. de Cazanove's Terraced Garden-- The Vintaging of the White Grapes in the Champagne-- Roper frères' Establishment at Rilly-la-Montague-- Their Cellars Penetrated by Roots of Trees-- Some Samples of Fine Old Champagnes-- The Principal Châlons Establishments-- Poem on Champagne by M. Amaury de Cazanove 129

XIII.--SPARKLING SAUMUR AND SPARKLING SAUTERNES.

The Sparkling Wines of the Loire often palmed off as Champagnes-- The Finer qualities Improve with Age-- Anjou the Cradle of the Plantagenet Kings-- Saumur and its Dominating Feudal Château und Antique Hôtel de Ville-- Its Sinister Rue des Payens and Steep Tortuons Grande Rue-- The Vineyards of the Coteau of Saumur-- Abandoned Stone Quarries converted into Dwellings-- The Vintage in Progress-- Old-fashioned Pressoirs-- The Making of the Wine-- The Vouvray Vineyards-- Balzac's Picture of La Vallée Coquette-- The Village of Vouvray and the Château of Moucontour-- Vernou with its Reminiscences of Sully and Pépin-le-Bref-- The Vineyards around Saumur-- Remarkable Ancient Dolmens-- Ackerman-Laurance's Establishment at Saint-Florent-- Their Extensive Cellars, Ancient and Modern-- Treatment of the Newly-Vintaged Wine-- The Cuvée-- Proportions of Wine from Black and White Grapes-- The Bottling and Disgorging of the Wine and Finishing Operations-- The Château of Varrains and the Establishment of M. Louis Duvau aîné-- His Cellars a succession of Gloomy Galleries-- The Disgorging of the Wine accomplished in a Melodramatic-looking Cave-- M. Duvau's Vineyard-- His Sparkling Saumur of Various Ages-- Marked Superiority of the more Matured Samples-- M. Alfred Ronsteaux's Establishments at Saint-Florent and Saint-Cyr-- His convenient Celliers and extensive Cellars-- Mingling of Wine from the Champagne with the finer Sparkling Saumur-- His Vineyard at La Perrière-- M. E. Normandin's Sparkling Sauternes Manufactory at Châteauneuf-- Angoulême and its Ancient Fortifications-- Vin de Colombar-- M. Normandin's Sparkling Sauternes Cuvée-- His Cellars near Châteauneuf-- High recognition accorded to the Wine at the Concours Régional d'Angoulême 139

XIV.--THE SPARKLING WINES OF BURGUNDY AND THE JURA.

Sparkling Wines of the Côte d'Or at the Paris Exhibition-- Chambertin, Romanée, and Vougeot-- Burgundy Wines and Vines formerly the Presents of Princes-- Vintaging Sparkling Burgundies-- Their After-Treatment in the Cellars-- Excess of Breakage-- Similarity of Proceeding to that followed in the Champagne-- Principal Manufacturers of Sparkling Burgundies-- Sparkling Wines of Tonnerre, the birthplace of the Chevalier d'Eon-- The Vin d'Arbanne of Bar-sur-Aube-- Death there of the Bastard de Bourbon-- Madame de la Motto's Ostentatious Display and Arrest there-- Sparkling Wines of the Beaujolais-- The Mont-Bronilly Vineyards-- Ancient Reputation of the Wines of the Jura-- The Vin Jaune of Arbois beloved of Henri Quatre-- Rhymes by him in its Honour-- Lons-le-Saulnier-- Vineyards yielding the Sparkling Jura Wines-- Their Vintaging and Subsequent Treatment-- Their High Alcoholic Strength and General Drawbacks 157

XV.--THE SPARKLING WINES OF THE SOUTH OF FRANCE.

Sparkling Wines of Auvergne, Guienne, Dauphiné, and Languedoc-- Sparkling Saint-Péray the Champagne of the South-- Valence with its Reminiscences of Pius VI. and Napoleon I.-- The "Horns of Crussol" on the Banks of the Rhône-- Vintage Scene at Saint-Péray-- The Vines and Vineyards Producing Sparkling Wine-- Manipulation of Sparkling Saint-Péray-- Its Abundance of Natural Sugar-- The Cellars of M. de Saint-Prix and Samples of his Wines-- Sparkling Côte-Rotie, Château-Grillé, and Hermitage-- Annual Production and Principal Markets of Sparkling Saint-Péray-- Clairette de Die-- The Porte Rouge of Die Cathedral-- How the Die Wine is Made-- The Sparkling White and Rose-Coloured Muscatels of Die-- Sparkling Wines of Vercheny and Lagrasse-- Barnave and the Royal Flight to Varennes-- Narbonne formerly a Miniature Rome, now Noted merely for its Wine and Honey-- Fête of the Black Virgin at Limoux-- Preference given to the New Wine over the Miraculous Water-- Blanquette of Limoux and How it is Made-- Characteristics of this Overrated Wine 165

XVI.--THE SPARKLING WINES OF GERMANY.

Origin of Sparkling Hock and Moselle-- Sparkling German Wines First Made on the Neckar-- Heilbronn, and Götz von Berlichingen of the Iron Hand-- Lauteren of Mayence and Rambs of Trèves turn their attention to Sparkling Wines-- Change of late years in the Character of Sparkling Hocks and Moselles-- Difference between them and Moussirender Rheinwein-- Vintaging of Black and White Grapes for Sparkling Wine-- The Treatment which German Sparkling Wines Undergo-- Artificial Flavouring and Perfuming of Sparkling Moselles-- Fine Natural Bouquet of High-Class Sparkling Hocks-- Impetus given to the Manufacture of German Sparkling Wines during the Franco-German War-- Annual Production-- Deinhard and Co.'s Splendid New Cellars at Coblenz-- The Firm's Collection of Choice Rhine and Moselle Wines-- Their Trade in German Sparkling Wines-- Their Sources of Supply-- The Vintaging and After-Treatment of their Wines-- Characteristics of their Sparkling Hocks and Moselles 172

XVII.--THE SPARKLING WINES OF GERMANY (continued).

XVIII.--THE SPARKLING WINES OF AUSTRO-HUNGARY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, SPAIN, RUSSIA, &C.

Sparkling Voslauer-- The Sparkling Wine Manufactories of Graz-- Establishment of Kleinoscheg Brothers-- Vintaging and Treatment of Styrian Champagnes-- Sparkling Red, Rose, and White Wines of Hungary-- The Establishment of Hubert and Habermann at Pressburg-- Sparkling Wines of Croatia, Galicia, Bohemia, Moravia, Dalmatia, the Tyrol, Transylvania, and the Banat-- Neuchâtel Champagne-- Sparkling Wine Factories at Vevay and Sion-- The Vevay Vineyards-- Establishment of De Riedmatten and De Quay-- Sparkling Muscatel, Malmsey, Brachetto, Castagnolo, and Lacryma Christi of Italy-- Sparkling Wines of Spain, Greece, Algeria, and Russia-- The Krimski and Donski Champagnes-- The Latter Chiefly Consumed at the Great Russian Fairs 196

XIX.--THE SPARKLING WINES OF THE UNITED STATES.

Earliest Efforts at Wine-Making in America-- Failures to Acclimatise European Vines-- Wines Made by the Swiss Settlers and the Mission Fathers-- The Yield of the Mission Vineyards-- The Monster Vine of the Montecito Valley-- The Catawba Vine and its General Cultivation-- Mr. Longworth one of the Founders of American Viticulture-- Fresh Attempts to make Sparkling Wine at Cincinnati-- Existing Sparkling Wine Manufactures there-- Longfellow's Song in Praise of Catawba-- The Kelley Island Wine Company-- Vintaging and Treatment of their Sparkling Wines-- Decrease of Consumption-- The Vineyards of Hammondsport-- Varieties of Grapes used for Sparkling Wines-- The Vintage-- After Treatment of the Wines-- The Pleasant Valley and Urbana Wine Companies and their Various Brands-- Californian Sparkling Wines-- The Buena Vista Vinicultural Society of San Francisco-- Its Early Failures and Eventual Success in Manufacturing Sparkling Wines-- The Vintage in California-- Chinese Vintagers-- How the Wine is Made-- American Spurious Sparkling Wines 203

XX.--CONCLUDING FACTS AND HINTS.

Dry and Sweet Champagnes-- Their Sparkling Properties-- Form of Champagne Glasses-- Style of Sparkling Wines Consumed in Different Countries-- The Colour and Alcoholic Strength of Champagne-- Champagne Approved of by the Faculty-- Its Use in Nervous Derangements-- The Icing of Champagne-- Scarcity of Grand Vintages in the Champagne-- The Quality of the Wine has little influence on the Price-- Prices realised by the Ay and Verzenay Crûs in Grand Years-- Suggestions for laying down Champagnes of Grand Vintages-- The Improvement they Develop after a few Years-- The Wine of 1874-- The proper kind of Cellar to lay down Champagne in-- Advantages of Burrow's Patent Slider Wine Bins-- Increase in the Consumption of Champagne-- Tabular Statement of Stocks, Exports, and Home Consumption from 1844-5 to 1877-8-- When to Serve Champagne at a Dinner Party-- Charles Dickens's dictum that its proper place is at a Ball-- Advantageous Effect of Champagne at an Ordinary British Dinner Party-- Sparkling Wine Cups 212