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Part 7

Electricity for the 4-H Scientist · Eric B. Wilson — chapter 7 of 30 · ~627 words · public domain

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What Did You Learn?

Underline correct answers then discuss in the group. (There may be more than one correct answer.)

1. The part of the lamp that usually wears out first is (the socket) (the cord) (the plug).

2. Lamps that waste electricity are those which have (bad wiring) (frayed cords) (dirty shades or bulb).

3. To unplug a lamp you should grasp (cord) (plug) firmly and pull.

4. Wire in lamp cord usually comes in sizes 16 or 18. Size 16 is the smaller (true) (false).

5. In fastening wire around a terminal post it should go around in a (clockwise) (counter-clockwise) direction.

6. When the switch on a lamp is turned off, the electricity only goes as far as (the wall plug) (the switch).

7. An Underwriters' knot should be used (only when there is room for it in the plug) (whenever there is likely to be strain on the cord, even if you have to replace the plug with a larger one).

SUGGESTED DEMONSTRATIONS

Show how to inspect a lamp and its cord. You might tie tags on the cord and lamp at points of danger or failure--at the plug, wear points next to lamp base, bad sockets.

Demonstrate the process of repairing a lamp cord, socket and plug.

Make a board display of the parts of the lamp socket showing cord attached.

Make a display of the types of lamp cords and plugs in common use.

Using two lamps, one with clean bulb and shade, the other dusty, show how the former gives more light.

For More Information

Lamps have an interesting history. Look it up in your local library. Ask someone from your power supplier or electric dealer to talk to the club about the different kinds of lamps. Your leader has or can get additional information on lamps, if you wish.

What Did You Exhibit

What Did You Demonstrate

LESSON NO. B-4

Credit Points 3

MAKE A TROUBLE LIGHT.

A handy piece of equipment in the home and on the farm is a heavy-duty extension cord with a shielded light and a side outlet on it. When you want to work on the car or tractor in the yard at night, the trouble light is better than a flashlight. You can use it both for light and as an extension cord. It is safer than matches or a lantern, especially around the garage or barn.

It is easy to make a trouble light, and it gives you good practice in electrical work. Of course you can buy one, but you wouldn't have the fun of making it nor would it suit your needs. Trouble lights are not for permanent use--they're for emergency use and to provide light or electricity in places where they are seldom needed. When you find a trouble light being used as permanent wiring, that's the place to install an outlet.

What Size Cord?

Choose the right kind of cord. What length will be best for your various uses? A cord too long may be bothersome to use and store. What will be the heaviest load you are likely to put on the cord, in amperes? Check appliances you may want to connect to it. No. 16 wire can carry 10 amperes safely for a distance of 50 feet, while No. 18 can carry only up to 7 amperes for a distance of 40 feet. You'll want a "hard service" cord, called S, ST, or SO-type cord by electricians. Junior hard service cords, known as SJ, SJT, or SJO, are fine for lighter duty.

Cord, Plug and Guard

A rubber-handled socket should be used for safety and to withstand hard knocks. It should have a switch on it, preferably a push switch in a recess in the handle.

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