Where but one dog, or even two or three are kept in a home, the danger of sickness is very small, especially if the behests as laid down in the preceding chapters are followed. Dogs in the home are not exposed like those which are kept in a kennel where new ones are constantly coming in and going out. Nor is the danger of contagious or infectious disease as great as when the dogs are exhibited at bench shows. Nevertheless, the highly bred dog is a fine-spun piece of mechanism and it is therefore best to know what to do as first aid in case sickness does come. To the novice, however, my advice is, send for the veterinarian, if a good one lives in your vicinity, as soon as you notice something seriously wrong with your dog. If no qualified canine practitioner is available, then seek the advice of some dog expert, but do not resort to all manner of dosing for dosing’s sake, as so many do, for in many cases too much medicine has led to more serious consequences than the illness itself.
The principal disorders that the one-dog owner is likely to encounter, are probably distemper, worms, skin diseases, fits and other various temporary stomach and intestinal ailments, most of which right themselves by the administration of a dose of castor oil or some other purgative.
Very frequently a dog will go off form due to overeating or perhaps because of devouring something that was harmful, or possibly because of lack of exercise. In most cases this is only temporary and the animal will doctor himself, provided he has access to grass. Do not be alarmed if your dog eats grass upon occasion, even though he partakes of it copiously. He is simply finding in this green element a nature remedy that will act as a conditioner. Fortunate is the canine that has the opportunity to do this, for he is thus finding a home remedy which is perhaps more effective than the most skilled veterinarian might be able to prescribe.
Sometimes old dogs suffer from constipation and it is well, occasionally, to put a little olive oil in their food, or even resort to a purgative. One of the best ever-ready remedies I know of is equal parts olive oil, cascara sagrada and castor oil. This may be mixed up and kept on hand indefinitely as there is nothing in it that will spoil. If your dog should go off his feed without showing any symptoms of something more serious coming on, give him, if he is a dog of from thirty to forty-five pounds, a tablespoonful of this night and morning for four or five days, and he will soon come back to his natural form. For smaller or larger dogs the dosage should be graded accordingly. All dog owners, however, should know when a dog is coming down with something serious. One of the most dreaded ailments is distemper, a contagious disease which may be communicated either by direct contact with a dog which has distemper, by being put in a place that was recently occupied by a distempered animal, or by associating with a dog which might be himself immune, but which had recently come from a place where he was exposed. In this manner such a dog is able to carry the disease even to some distant locality. Thus many dogs have been subjected to disease through their companions which were exhibited at bench shows, and which, though immune themselves, carried it home to their kennel companions.
First of all it should be said that the normal temperature of the dog is from 100 to 100-1/2 degrees when taken under the forearm or inside of the thigh. Taken per rectum it is one degree higher. This temperature may vary some in the larger and the smaller breeds, but it is the general average. If the dog appears listless, apathetic, refuses to eat and possibly begins to sneeze or water at the eyes, if his temperature has gone three or four degrees above normal, then it may be taken for granted that he is in the first stages of distemper. On the other hand, he may only show the dullness and the high temperature; there may be no discharge from the eyes or nose, but a dry, husky tell-tale cough may be noted. Any of these forms are the symptoms of distemper and the victim should be isolated at once and the first act should be to administer a liberal dose of castor oil. At this stage I have found it very efficacious to give quinine and hyposulphite of soda, each in two-grain doses, either together or one following the other within half an hour, four times a day. The dog must be placed in a warm and dry room and should not be allowed to go out for anything. The room should be kept at a temperature of seventy degrees, but must be ventilated by windows opening from above so that there can be no draughts with which the victim will come in contact. The disinfectant used should also be some dry form, such as the various sanitary sawdust preparations that are on the market. Any dampness in the room is detrimental to the patient. The principal thing to remember in distemper is good care, for it will be found more effective than medicine, whether given in serum form or by mouth. The dog’s strength must be kept up and to this end eggs, broth, and even finely chopped up raw beef in small quantities will be beneficial. Some kennel men object to the beef, but nevertheless many a dog will eat this where he refuses everything else and certainly nothing is more nutritious than beef. Every symptom must be combated as it arises and many complications are likely to set in. One thing must always be kept in mind, and that is, to make the dog take nourishment, for once he refuses to eat, then the case is practically hopeless.
Those who prefer the serum treatment should begin giving it, as per directions, subcutaneously, with hypodermic syringe. There are several good serums or vaccines on the market, but the one that I have had the most experience with is that put up by a Detroit laboratory. This firm makes not only a curative vaccine, but one known as a preventative. It is useless to give the prophylactic or preventative after the dog has once been exposed. Rather await the earliest developments and then begin with the curative and give the six doses as per direction. Begin with bulb number one and follow up at the intervals indicated until all have been given. In the meantime, however, exercise the usual care in the way of even temperature in the place where the patient is confined and in the matter of diet. This is imperative, no matter what treatment is being used. The prophylactic or curative treatment consists of three doses. It is also given with hypodermic syringe, subcutaneously. It is well to keep this serum on hand to use if one expects to show his dog or run him in field trials, but the treatment should be given at least a month before the time he is to appear in public. The success of this serum treatment seems to be general, although many breeders have no faith in it. This may be due to the fact that they begin too late or failed to follow instructions. The treatment is supposed to combat all symptoms that arise in the most virulent cases of distemper.
The worst complication of all distempers is that affecting the nervous system; the brain and its membrane may become inflamed and fits follow, or the spinal cord and its membranes are attacked, in which event paralysis or chorea, or sometimes both occur. These can be overcome, but it is a long drawn out and a very uncertain thing. Generally, chorea occurs after the virulent phase of the disease is passed and it is mostly due to too early exposure. The patient should not be allowed to go out of doors or get excited in any way until the temperature has been normal for at least ten days.
Common sense and good nursing win out more times than all the medicine, but the complications as they arise must be combated. For instance, the eyes must be looked after. The discharge should be washed away frequently during the day with a warm boracic acid solution by dissolving one teaspoonful of the boracic acid in half a pint of warm water. The following lotion should be used afterward as it will help keep the eyes clear:
Chinosol 3 grains Water 6 ounces
As the dog recovers from the distemper and the eyes have that opaque appearance so often noted, use an ointment made of 1 grain yellow oxide of mercury mixed with one dram of vaseline. Drop a bit about the size of a pea into the corner and rub well under the lids. Sometimes red pustules will appear all over the underbody and occasionally on all parts of the body. This should be treated with the ordinary mange remedies. At other times the disease attacks the bowels, which must then be looked after. Try bismuth in ten grain doses for medium-sized dogs. If this does not stop the diarrhea, then the following mixture might be effective:
Powdered Extract of Kino 1 dram Powdered Ipecacuanha 8 grains Powdered Opium 6 grains
Mix and divide into twelve pills.
Dose, from one-half to two pills, according to the size of the dog, four times a day. After the acute stage is passed, then a good tonic is desirable and for this purpose either Le Roy’s Condition Pills, Sergeant’s or Glover’s are useful.
Another serious complication that frequently arrives is when it attacks the lungs, and this is not at all uncommon; pneumonia being one of the situations to guard against. Where there is a sudden rise in temperature and the dog is inclined to sit on his haunches, bracing himself on his forelegs, which are spread far apart, and his breathing comes fast and sharp, it may be taken for granted that pneumonia is the cause. By placing the ear to the chest one can hear the labored breathing which sounds very much like someone walking over frozen snow.
If the dog is not already wearing a chest jacket make one for him at once. Sometimes strong liniments are effective. But one of the simplest things to use is hot lard and turpentine. Grease the chest well with this, wrap flannels around him and put the jacket over all. Apply fresh turpentine and lard every two hours, until the breathing is easier. The following is a very good formula to use internally:
Extract of Belladonna 1/2 grain James’ Powder 4 grains Nitrate of Potash 8 grains
Extract of Gentian, enough to make one pill
For medium-sized dogs make up twelve pills with the above ingredients and give 1 three times daily. If the fever does not subside readily it might be well to give them drops of aconite in a tablespoonful of water, every three hours. Perpetual vigilance is necessary in the successful combating of pneumonia and as in every other phase of distemper, care and good nursing are most important. For a more extended treatise on distemper, “Dogcraft,” third edition, will be of great benefit to all dog owners.
Few dogs go through life without having Worms at some time in their career and in the case of puppies, we doubt if any ever escape these intestinal pests. Usually the kennel owner or dealer, worms the puppies before he sells them, hence the future owner has little to fear, although it must not be supposed that when a vermifuge is given to a puppy once or even two or three times during his young life, that he will be forever free from worms. On the other hand, he is likely to have them at any time, though the danger of fatal results is far less.
There are numerous remedies that may be used very effectively for the various kinds of worms, such as areca nut, santonin, pink and senna, kamala, etc., but I believe the safest plan for the novice is to procure any one of the reliable proprietary remedies that are on the market, for it will be less trouble to give these and there is little danger of going wrong, which might be the case were the neophyte to dabble with unknown drugs.
For Tape Worm--and many more dogs suffer from this than one might suppose--kamala and areca nut in equal parts is very effective. That is, for large dogs give two grains (one grain of each drug) to the pound weight of the dog after fasting twenty-four to thirty-six hours. One hour after giving the vermifuge the dog should have a liberal dose of castor oil. The symptoms of tape worm are varied. The dog may have a capricious appetite, his coat becomes harsh and stary, he looks thin and emaciated and he has a habit of rubbing his sides and back up along fences or buildings. His breath is usually offensive and his eyes lack luster and frequently form pus in the corners.
In the South the Hook Worm is the bane of all dog owners and it is becoming more prevalent every year. Indeed, of late years it has been invading the North also, which is probably due to field trials and bench shows, as dogs from the North are taken South where they become infested and thus bring the pests back to their homes. Recently a very good specific for hook worms has been discovered and from all accounts it is giving excellent results. The drug is carbon tetrachloride. The dose is one drop for each pound weight of the dog after fasting twenty-four hours. The drug should be placed in hard capsules and administered in that manner. It is not necessary to follow with a purgative as is the case with most other vermifuges. This new remedy has been given to very young puppies with the best results. It should always be remembered, however, that the dosage should be one drop to the pound weight of the dog, no matter how large or how small he is.
A dog affected with hook worms usually grows very thin, is dull and apathetic, his coat is harsh and unnatural, his eyes lack fire and he has little or no ambition, but the greatest tell-tale sign of all is his gums and the mucous membrane of his eyes. Instead of being a healthy pink, they become white and waxy. When the gums and mouth are in this condition, then it is time to begin treatment for hook worms.
One of the common disturbances that house dogs are subject to is Fits. It is rather disheartening to the novice to see his dog roll over suddenly and become stiff and rigid, for in most cases he is at a loss what to do. Fits arise from various causes; through worms, constitutional nervous disorders, the aftermath of distemper, but in most cases with house dogs, because of constipation or indigestion. If the trouble is due to the two latter causes, then they may be easily overcome by a change of diet and more exercise, for there is where the trouble generally lies. The dog is fed heartily, frequently of indigestible food, he obtains little or no exercise and the inevitable result is a disarrangement of bowels, stomach or liver. If the fits are the aftermath of distemper, the dog may outgrow them, but if they are constitutional, then little or nothing can be done. However, it is fits of the first order--that is, due to derangement of the digestive organs--which are the commonest among house dogs. The victim may suddenly fall over, or he may remain on his feet, and if he does, the toe nails will dig into the rug or carpet in a way that once seen will always be recognized. These seizures are generally easily overcome by applying warm applications to the abdomen, or hand massage. The victim, however, should be given a purgative once a day for several days, and if there is reason to suspect worms, a vermifuge is not out of order. Exercise him in the open every day, but do not overdo this at first. In severe cases an enema may be given once daily, for three days following the attack, in place of giving the castor oil.
The more alarming cases of fits are seizures which attack highly-strung young dogs of an extremely nervous temperament. These fits usually attack the animal when he is out at exercise and they cause such violent contortions that many an ignorant person might suppose the dog to be mad. A dog suffering in this way, may be going along nicely when suddenly he will utter a distressing cry, stagger a few times and fall down in convulsions. While in this condition he will snap wildly at anyone or anything near him. Unless secured his next proceeding is to get up and run; he seems to be wholly deaf to the voice of his master and does not even recognize him. Sometimes, after recovering from the attack, he will be unable to distinguish his master for several hours. The owner of a dog subject to such fits should take prompt measures to secure him while he is in one of these paroxysms, or he will run amuck when he arises and there will be difficulty in catching him. It is such dogs which frequently cause the reports of mad dogs being in a neighborhood and many a poor innocent victim is dispatched, an innocent sacrifice, immolated on the altar of ignorance. Naturally, the owner of the dog is not likely to have medicines near at hand when his dog is thus attacked, and in such a contingency, the best thing to do is to dash cold water on his head and in his face, continuing this for several minutes. Get the dog home as soon as possible, then administer a dose of castor oil, or the preparation recommended for constipation, namely, equal parts olive oil, castor oil and cascara sagrada. After this, begin a course of bromide; the dosage being from two to fifteen grains according to the size of the animal, to be given twice daily. The food should be nourishing, but not too stimulating, and in small quantities at a time; it is well to feed three times daily, each meal to be about one-half an ordinary one. Remove all causes of nervous excitement and build up the dog by common-sense treatment.
Rabies is not common, but nevertheless it is a real affliction of the canine race, consequently if your dog has been bitten by a supposedly rabid dog it is well to keep him isolated to watch results. Rabies may appear at any time from eight days to three months after being bitten by a mad dog, hence great care is essential. The disease can only be communicated through a bite or where the saliva of a rabid dog comes in contact with an abrasion of the skin. The owner of a single dog who never allows his animal to run at large except when he is present is not likely to ever encounter rabies, but it is well to know the symptoms in case such a contingency does occur. Not all dogs bitten by a dog known to suffer from rabies is likely to contract the disease, hence one must not become hysterical at once and destroy the animal so exposed. Rather isolate him and watch developments. The disease, as is well known, is communicable to all animals, even to the human species, but with the latter the percentage is very small indeed.
The first symptoms are a rise in temperature from two to three degrees above normal. The dog will constantly lick himself at some particular spot which is probably the place where he was bitten and inoculated. The disposition of the victim undergoes an entire change. The cheerful one becomes morose and sullen, the quiet one is restless, and the ordinarily good-tempered dog quarrelsome and inclined to hide in dark corners, although when called will generally come to his master and probably be very affectionate. Frothing of the mouth, as generally supposed, is not a symptom of the rabid dog. The mouth may be more moist than normal at first, but it soon becomes dry and of a very dark red color. The rabid dog is very much inclined to attack others; the timid pet without provocation will attack others much larger than himself and after biting his victim will emit a peculiar howl, which when once heard will never be mistaken. The rabid dog’s voice undergoes an entire alteration which is one of the decided characteristics of the disease. It begins with a peculiar sharp bark and ends with a dismal howl. If the animal obtains his liberty he will wander for miles on a kind of dog trot, with head and tail lowered, going out of his way to attack dogs and other animals, but usually remaining away from human beings, unless they interfere with him. In a day or two he will return to his home. He will refuse any kind of food, but he will gnaw at sticks, stones, timber or anything that may be near him. He will drink water until his throat becomes so swollen that it is impossible for him to swallow, but even then he will attempt to drink by putting his nose in a pail or basin of water. He becomes weaker rapidly and if not killed, will die in four or five days.
In Dumb Rabies the lower jaw is dropped and the dog is unable to close his mouth. It is not often that a rabid dog will attack his master, but he will fly at a stranger without provocation. There is no cure for either form of rabies and as soon as one is convinced that the dog is suffering with the disease he should be put out of his misery by a painless death.
As I have said, rabies is very uncommon and many kennel men have gone through life without ever having seen a case, though it is the height of folly to dismiss the subject on this account and proclaim there is no such disease. It is very real and should be guarded against. There are many cases of pseudo rabies that one hears about through the daily newspapers which are merely the creations of some fanatic or ignorant persons who would not recognize the true from the false if they saw them.
Skin Troubles such as the various forms of mange and eczema are likely to occur occasionally though the owner of one or two dogs need not worry about this if he grooms his dogs and cares for them as indicated in the chapters of this book. A very good ointment to have on hand in case of skin trouble is the following:
Flowers of sulphur 4 ounces Oil of tar 2 ounces Carbolic acid 2 drams
Add this to twelve ounces of linseed oil and stir well in order to thoroughly mix the ingredients. Apply to affected parts or abrasions of the skin. It is scarcely necessary to say that when this ointment is applied to the dog’s coat he must be forbidden to house unless one wishes to have his rugs, carpets and furniture ruined.
Poisoning is one of the banes of a dog owner’s existence, for one is likely to encounter the poison fiend anywhere at any time. However, there are also many cases of accidental poisoning. Whether accidental or otherwise, the majority of cases occur through arsenic, strychnine or powdered glass.
From the symptoms displayed one can usually determine the kind of poison used. Strychnine causes pain, twitching, possibly vomiting and purging. In fatal cases, convulsions with prolonged spasms of the muscles, with more or less frequent relaxation. This continues until death ends the struggle.
Arsenic causes gastritis and enteritis, hence a burning thirst, vomiting and purging, the dog usually dying from exhaustion or collapse.
Ground glass poisoning will produce bloody discharges, great pain and distress and frequently vomiting of blood. There is no relief for the victim of such an experience and the most humane thing to do is to put the dog to death promptly by administering chloroform.
In the treatment of arsenical and strychnine poisoning, the primary object should be to get the poison out of the system as soon as possible. To this end emetics should be administered promptly, unless the animal is already vomiting freely. As an emetic, fifteen to twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in a teaspoonful of wine of ipecac is very good, but if this is not at hand, anything should be resorted to that will produce the desired results, such as mustard or baking soda in lukewarm water. In strychnine poisoning every effort should be made to neutralize the effect of the poison on the spinal cord. Bromide of potassium and chloral hydrate are the best. Either may be given to medium-sized dogs by mouth or rectum in twenty-grain doses. This may be repeated at short intervals until one dram has been given. In all cases of poisoning except phosphorus, which is very rare, oil may be given, also calcined magnesia or lime water, as they are harmless and protect the stomach mechanically. Other simple things, such as white of eggs, flour, etc., may be used with good effect. For arsenical poisoning the best antidote is hydrated oxide of iron. This can be prepared quickly by adding baking soda to tincture of iron so long as there is any effervescence. When the neutral point has been reached, it may be given freely in teaspoonful doses, every ten minutes.
* * * * *
DOGCRAFT
By A. F. HOCHWALT
Third Edition--Revised and Enlarged
Here is a book every sportsman will want to have in his library for ready reference--and study. It tells everything you want to know about dogs--290 pages of expert information.
DOGCRAFT is a complete study of the various breeds of dogs; their care and management in health and disease. You will find many interesting chapters on gun dogs, sight hunters, house and watch dogs, pastoral dogs--and you’ll find out just how the particular breed you are interested in should be trained and cared for.
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Practical Dog-Keeping
For the Amateur
Written so as to be Understood
By A. F. HOCHWALT
the eminent authority and writer
The author has compiled in this valuable book a mass of facts and information in a clear and concise style that can be understood by every one. He has avoided unfamiliar terms and used only words and phrases of our every-day language.
All phases of dog-keeping are carefully explained--the latest methods in feeding, conditioning and grooming--directions on care in case of sickness--observations on breeding--proper diets, and many other important subjects.
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The Working Dog and His Education
By A. F. HOCHWALT
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A Splendid Book Every Camper Will Want in His Kit
Camp Cookery
By HORACE KEPHART
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Illustrated with Pen Drawings of Useful Camp Utensils, Outfits, Etc.
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The Modern Pointer
By A. F. HOCHWALT
The object of this book is to briefly consider the development of a dog which for many years has been one of the favorites of the sportsman, and which is likely to continue so for all time to come.
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The Modern Setter
By A. F. HOCHWALT
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TWENTIETH CENTURY BIRD DOG
Training and Kennel Management
By ER. M. SHELLEY
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* * * * *
Transcriber’s Notes:
Illustrations have been moved to paragraph breaks near where they are mentioned.
Punctuation has been made consistent.
Variations in spelling and hyphenation were retained as they appear in the original publication, except that obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
Dogs As Home Companions · The Wunder Library — complete classics, free to read, with narration.