Brittany & Its Byways

Part 1

Brittany & Its Byways

by Fanny Bury Palliser

Edition 02 , (November 9, 2007)

BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS

SOME ACCOUNT OF ITS INHABITANTS AND ITS ANTIQUITIES; DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY.

BY MRS. BURY PALLISER

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS

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London

1869

CONTENTS

Contents. List of Illustrations. Britanny and Its Byways. Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany. Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany. Index. Transcribers’ Notes

CONTENTS.

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CHERBOURG—Mont du Roule—Visit of Queen Victoria—Harbour, 1—Breakwater—Dock-Yard, 2—Chantereyne—Hôpital de la Marine, 3—Castle—Statue of Napoleon I.—Library—Church of La Trinité, 4—Environs—Octeville, 5—Lace-school of the Sœurs de la Providence, 11.

QUERQUEVILLE—Church of St. Germain, 5—Château of the Comte de Tocqueville, 6.

TOURLAVILLE—Château, 7—Crêpes, 11.

MARTINVAST—Château, 12.

BRICQUEBEC—Castle—History, 12—Valognes, 14.

ST. SAUVEUR-le-Vicomte—Demesne—History, 15—Castle—Convent—Abbey, 16.

PÉRIERS, 17—La Haye-du-Puits, 17—Abbey of Lessay—Mode of Washing—Inn-signs, 18—Church, 19.

COUTANCES—Cathedral—Churches, 19—Fête of St. Fiacre, 20.

GRANVILLE—Situation—History—Church, 21—View from the "Roc"—Bathing-machines—Defeat of the Vendean army—Death of La Rochejacquelin, 22—Costume of the Women—Environs—St. Pair, 23.

AVRANCHES—Extensive View—Scene of Absolution of Henry II.—Cemetery, 24.

PONTORSON—Story of the Lady Typhaine, 24—Government by Du Guesclin—Mont St. Michel, 25—Chapel of St. Aubert—Visits of English kings—Pilgrimages of Kings of France, 26—Convent of "La Merveille," 27—Isle of La Tombeleine—Prison, 28—The Iron Cage, 29.

DOL-DE-BRETAGNE—Street Architecture, 30—Cathedral, 31—Tomb of Bishop James—Chapel of St. Samson, 32—Monks, 33—Dyke, 34—Menhir, 35—Château of Combourg, 36—Chateaubriand, 37.

CANCALE—Oysters, 37—Wretched public vehicles, 38—Bay, 39.

ST. MALO—Situation, 39—Sea-wall, 40—Tomb of Chateaubriand—Memorials of him, 41—Watch-dogs, 42—Castle—History, 43—DINARD, 44.

Part 2

DINAN—Ascent of the Rance—Statue of Du Guesclin, 44—Siege of 1359—Duel of Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorbéry, 45—Castle of Montfilant—Story of Gilles de Bretagne, 46—Lunatic Asylum—Castle of Dinan, 50—Church of St. Sauveur, 51—Museum, 52—Environs—Château of La Bellière, 54—Château of La Garaye—Count Claude de la Garaye and his Wife, 57—Jugon, 61—Castle of La Hunaudaye, 62—Legend of La Hunaudaye, 63—Forest of La Hunaudaye—The Chouan War, 66.

LAMBALLE—Jeanne la Boiteuse—War of Succession, 67—Temple of Lanleff, 68—Tradition of the blood-spots, 70.

ST. BRIEUC—Palais de Justice—Tour de Cesson, 71—Church of Notre Dame—Review of his army by James II. of England, 72.

GUINGAMP—Situation—Fishing in the Trieux—Sanctuary of Notre Dame du Bon Secours—"Frérie blanche," 72—Fountain of Duke Peter—Women of Guingamp—Knitting and spinning—Ransom for Du Guesclin, 74—Chapel of St. Leonard patron saint of prisoners—Curious charms against fever, 75.

PAIMPOL—Château de Boisgelin, 75—Abbey of Beauport, 76—Situation of Paimpol—Suspension-bridge of Lézardrieux, 80—Château of La Roche Jagu, 81.

PONTRIEUX—Castle of La Roche Derrien, 82—"War of the two Jeannes"—Church of Langoat—Monument of Ste. Pompée, 83—Burial customs—Excellence of roads in Brittany, 84.

KERMARTIN—St. Ives, 84—Inscription at his birthplace—Interior of a Breton dwelling, 86—Church of Minihy-Tréguier—Will of St. Ives, 87.

TRÉGUIER—Cathedral—Burial-place of St. Ives, 88—Constable Clisson, 89—Cemetery, 90—Skull-boxes, 91.

LANNION—Difficulty of the road, 91—Perros Guirec—Ploumanach—Roche Pendue, 92—Situation of Lannion—Fishery—Sea-weed gathering, 94—Castle of Touquédec, 95—Château of Kergrist, 96.

MORLAIX—Situation—Timbered houses, 97—History, 98—Breton characteristics, 99—Protestant Missions, 100—"Fontaine des Anglais," 102—River Scenery, 103.

ST. POL DE LÉON, 103—Religious Monuments—Character of the Léonnais, 104—Church of Notre Dame de Creizker—Legend of St. Génévroc, 105—Cathedral, 106—St. Pol and the Dragon, 109—Ursuline Convent—"Droit de Motte," 110.

ROSCOFF—Contraband trade with England—Vegetable produce, 111—Historic importance, 112—Church—Island of Batz—Enormous old fig-tree, 113.

ST. THÉGONNEC STATION—Cabaret—Church, 114—Guimiliau Church—Sculptures, 115—Calvary, 116—Buckwheat, 117—Castle and Church of La Roche Maurice, 118.

BREST—Situation, 118—Harbour, 119—Church of the Folgoët—Legend, 120—Kersanton stone, 122—Sculptures in Kersanton stone, 123—The Fool’s Well, 124—Exterior of Church, 125—Churchyard, 127—Monthly Fair of Brest—Peasants’ Costumes, 133.

FINISTÈRE—Abbey of St. Mathieu, 129—Sea-fights, 130—Pont Launay and Châteaulin, 134.

QUIMPER, 135—Legend of St. Corentin, 137—Cathedral, 139—National costume, 140.

CONCARNEAU, 142—Sardine Fishery, 143—Aquarium, 147—Dolmen and Rocking-stone of Trégunc—Château of Rustéphan, 149—Valley of Pontaven, 150.

QUIMPERLÉ—Fishing, 151—Buildings—Tomb of St. Gurloës, 152—Tomb of John de Montfort—Ruins of St. Columban, 153—Dirtiness of the Bretons—Animals and Farm produce—Butter Indulgence, 154.

LORIENT—Bisson and the Pirates, 155.

HENNEBONT—Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, 156—Church of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, 157.

STE. ANNE D’AURAY, 158—Scala Sancta—Fête, 159—Chartreuse, 160—Battle, 161—Deaf and Dumb School, 164—Massacre of Quiberon, 165—Champ des Martyrs, 168—Celtic Remains, 169.

LOCMARIAKER—Tumulus—Celtic and other Remains, 170—Tumulus of Gavr’ Inis, 175.

CARNAC—Celtic Remains—Menhirs of Kermario, 177—Legend of St. Cornély, 178—Jade Celts, &c., at Plouharnel, 180—Dolmen of Concorro, 181.

VANNES—History—Promenade, 183—Cathedral, 184—Château Gaillau—Tour du Connétable, 185—Model Village of Korner-hoët, 187—Peninsula of Rhuys, 188—Fortress of Sucinio, 189—Abbey of St. Gildas, 192—Abelard and the Breton Monks, 193—The Breton "Blue Beard," 194—Butte d’Arzon—Castle of Elven, 199—Growth of Chestnuts, 203.

PLOËRMEL, 203—Church, 204—Tombs, 205—Column of the Thirty, 206—Battle of the Thirty, 207—Château of Josselin, 209—Church of Josselin, 213.

MONTFORT-SUR-MER—Forest of Paimpont—Fairy tales, 215.

RENNES, ancient capital of Brittany—Entry of Henry IV.—Scenery of the Loire, 216—Castle of Champtoceaux, 218.

NANTES—Cathedral, 221—Tombs, 222—Castle—Anne of Brittany, 223—Promenades and Boulevards—Museum, 227—Jardin des Plantes—Descent of the Loire—The Noyades, 228.

Part 3

ST. NAZAIRE—Historical associations, 230—Le Croisic, 232—Salt-pans, 233—Costume of the Paludiers, 234—Saulniers—Chouan: origin of the name and of the War, 241—Church of Batz, 243—Situation of Le Croisic, 244—Chapel of St. Goustan, 245.

GUÉRANDE—Church of St Aubin—Chapel of Notre Dame Blanche, 246—La Roche Bernard, 247—Wedding Festivities, 248—National Music—Female Costume—Fête de la Vierge and of the Emperor, 249—Scenery of the River Loch, 250.

BELLE ISLE—Le Palais—M. Trochu’s Model Farm, 251—Breton fatalism, 252—Grotte du Port Coton, 255—Historical associations of Belle Isle, 256—Fishery, 257.

PONT L’ABBÉ, 257—Costumes, 258—Church, 259.

LOCTUDY—Romanesque Church, 261.

TORCHE DE PENMARCH, 262—Church of St. Guenolé, 263—"Le filet saint"—Ruins of the old Town, 264—Fontenelle the Leaguer, 267—Church of St. Nonna, 268—Menhirs at Kerscaven, 269.

AUDIERNE—Lighthouse—Bathing-machines, 269—Town, 270.

POINTE DU RAZ—Popular superstitions—Church of St. Collédoc, 271—"Enfer de Plogoff"—Island of Sein—Druidesses, 272—Dangerous passage, 273—Baie des Trépassés—Submerged city of Is, 274—Legend of King Gradlon and his daughter Dahut, 275.

DOUARNENEZ—Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, 276—Chapel of Notre Dame de Comfort—Wheel of Sacring-Bells—Town of Douarnenez, 279—Pardon of Ste. Anne-de-la-Palue, 280—Costume, 281—Church of Ste. Anne—Procession, 282—Holy Well of Ste. Anne, 285.

SCAËR—Old Customs and Superstitions, 285—Wrestling—"Pierres de Croix," 286.

LE FAOUÉT—Chapel of St. Barbe, 287—Wedding ceremonies and amusements, 288—Fishing, 289—Old Breton superstitious still prevalent—Lavandières de la Nuit, 290—Church of St. Fiacre—Elaborately carved Rood-screen, 293—Painted glass—Ruined Castle of Poncallec—Plot of Cellamare, 294—Montagnes Noires, 296.

CARHAIX—Situation, 297—Statue of La Tour d’Auvergne, 298—Fair and Market—Church of St. Tremeur—Skull-boxes, 299.

HUELGOAT, 300—Lead-mines, 301—Cascade of St. Herbot—Chapel of St. Herbot, 303—His tomb, 304—Patron of cattle—Offerings of horsehair and cows’ tails, 304—Homeward journey, 307.

USEFUL DATES in the History of Brittany 309

CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE of the Dukes of Brittany 310

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VIGNETTE—St. Michael’s Mount, Title-page. 1. Querqueville Church, 6 2. Plan of Querqueville Church, 6 3. Château of Tourlaville, 9 4. Castle of Bricquebec, 13 5. Badge of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, 17 6. Coutances Cathedral, 20 7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, 31 8. Front of the Tomb, 32 9. Menhir, near Dol, 35 10. Château of Combourg, 37 11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, 38 12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand’s Tomb, 40 13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, 52 14. Château of La Bellière, 54 15. Chimney, Château of La Bellière, 56 16. Château of La Garaye, 60 17. Section of Lanleff Church, 69 18. Plan of Lanleff Church, 70 19. Fountain of Duke Peter, 73 20. Abbey of Beauport, 77 21. Skull-box, 91 22. The Creizker, 107 23. Calvary, Guimiliau, 116 24. The Fool’s Well, Folgoët, 124 25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, 131 26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant, 133 27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin, 135 28. Begger, Quimper, 141 29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, 143 30. Dolmen, Trégunc, 146 31. Rocking-Stone, Trégunc, 148 32. Château of Rustéphan, 150 33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d’Auray, 159 34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, 169 35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, 171 36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, 173 37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr’ Inis, 175 38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr’ Inis, 176 40. Dolmen of Corcorro, 182 41. Castle of Elven, 200 42. Column of the Thirty, 206 43. Château of Josselin, 212 44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, 235 45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, 237 46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, 239 47. La Roche Bernard, 247 48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, 253 49. Device of Fouquet, 257 50. Peasant Girl, Pont l’Abbé, 258 51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, 260 52. Torche of Penmarch, 262 53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch, 264 54. Church of Guenolé, Penmarch, 265 55. Fleur-de-lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, 269 56. Pointe du Raz, 270 57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, 277 58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, 279 59. Costume of a Finistère Bride, 281 60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, 284 61. Cross Stones, 286 62. Rood-screen or Jubé, St. Fiacre, 291 63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 304 64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 305

BRITANNY AND ITS BYWAYS.

A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole to Cherbourg. It was dusk when we entered the harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing its beauty until the following morning, when we ascended a height behind the town, called the Mont du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by carriage, the Emperor having ordered a road to be made up to the fort which crowns the heights, on the occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in 1858, of her Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were immediately set to work, and, in a few days, an easy carriage-road was finished, up which the Emperor drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace. The view from the fort is lovely, commanding the whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin, from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to Barfleur. The water of the harbour, owing to its great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in likening to that of the Bay of Naples. Across its entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet of our yacht squadron, which the day before had run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We took a boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded at each end by a fort, with another in the centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy weather the sea washes over the breakwater, and sometimes for days prevents all communication between the forts, and the supplies consequently are stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells of the Venus’ ear, which inhabits the rocks of the breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the fish-market exposed for sale, and, on expressing some curiosity as to how they were eaten, the landlord had a dish prepared for us. These fish resemble the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require a great deal of beating with a wooden mallet to make them tender enough to eat. They are called "ormer," or "gofish." The table d’hôte was very plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout Normandy and Brittany, cider, the customary beverage of the country, was always placed upon the table. It varies very much in quality in different districts; that of Bayeux is most esteemed.

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