Part 12

THE PLAIN (HAMADA) OF GHARDAIA.

A superficial view of the plain (hamada) which lies both to the north and to the south of the M’Zab Valley does not suggest any vegetation whatever, at least during the dry season. The desert is quite as barren in appearance, as, for example, portions of the Libyan Desert are in reality. In every direction one sees grayish-brown stones and bowlders, with little earth, and in some places blackened stones, blackened by “fires from heaven” the Arabs believe, but nothing to indicate the presence of plants. Tristram has described the plain as “one mass of naked rock, rough stone, and coarse débris, from the neighboring mountain, but without a scrap of earth or a vestige of the minutest vegetation.” But close study of the plain makes out a better case than this; in fact, where the soil has accumulated in pockets, where there is a slight drainage depression, or where spaces between the rocks are filled with soil, careful examination shows the remains of annuals and not a few living perennials; but like other intense deserts, plants, even when relatively numerous, are not present in sufficient numbers and not of sufficient size to give character to the landscape or to hide the surface of the ground.

The plain on both sides of the valley was studied and a few areas carefully examined with results which are summarized in the following paragraphs.

It has already been mentioned that the walls of the M’Zab Valley at Ghardaia are precipitous, rising between 60 and 100 meters from the valley floor, their summits being the general level of the plain. Both to the north and to the south of the valley there are short but steep tributary gulches. In these gulches, and especially at the heads of the gulches, are pockets filled with earth, and here may be found some perennial vegetation. For example, at the head of such a ravine, 3 kilometers north of the valley, 10 undetermined living species were found, of which 6 were perennials and the balance were long-lived annuals or biennials. (See fig. 20.) In an analogous situation, but on the plain to the south of the valley, the aspect being similar, a larger number of plants were found, including, among other species, Aristida sp., Centaurea pubescens, Deverra scoparia, Fagonia bruguieri, Peganum harmala, and Teucrium pseudo-chamæpitys. A census of plants was taken, where the individuals were most numerous, with the following result: On an area 16 by 16 meters there were 330 living specimens. The three dominant species were Aristida sp., Deverra scoparia, and Helianthemum sessiliflorum.

On the level portions of the plain one sees almost no perennials and only the dried remains of annuals, although here and there may be found an isolated specimen of Peganum harmala or even of Citrullus colocynthis, the latter strangely out of its proper surroundings. In one place, also, a small date palm was found surviving the extremely arid conditions. But on the hamada it is only in relatively favorable situations that plants are to be found. One such was given above and another was found on the open plain, but near the base of a low mountain, where there was a slight depression and where some water was received from the mountain run-off. The area alluded to is 10 kilometers north of the north valley wall; the south base of the nearest mountain is 100 meters to the north of the area. The ground inclines gently to the south, and rises slightly both to the east and to the west. The surface is thickly strewn with stones and the soil is clay mixed with sand, the latter predominating in the center of the depression, where there is also a relatively large proportion of small pebbles. The area studied, 16 meters square, was so selected that the depression crossed the middle portion, leaving the two sides as representing the larger part of the plain. (Fig. 21.) In a country where the conditions of plant life are so severe it is of interest to observe how slight advantages of whatever kind, such as in the square under consideration, work for the betterment of the vegetation. The dominating species was a bunch-grass, probably Aristida sp., but there was also present Haloxylon sp. (eaten to the surface of the ground by the passing flocks) with other undetermined forms. On the area given 414 living perennials were found with numerous dead annuals. All of the plants were growing in the depression, there being, in fact, none on the adjacent but somewhat higher parts of the hamada. The character of the soil of this square and a discussion of the root characters of plants growing in it are given in another place.

How far the paucity of plants on the plain is owing to the arid conditions obtaining there, apparently a sufficient explanation in itself, and how far to the fact that herbivorous animals, wild as well as domestic, for several centuries have been gaining their food from the plain, can not at present be well told. Observations given below, however, indicate that if areas are protected against the depredations of animals, the plants are noticeably more numerous and of a larger size than when there is no protection. This conclusion applies to portions of the plain as well as to the other habitats under discussion.

THE MOUNTAINS ABOUT GHARDAIA.

The vegetation of the low mountains and of the rocky valley walls is extremely meager, mainly on account of the small amount or total absence of soil. In certain places (for example, near Melika) the plants of the hamada descend the rocky gulch nearly to the floor of the valley, and a similar condition has already been noted at the heads of two of the larger gulches. In such places we find species of grass and Haloxylon articulatum mainly, but these species are not typical of this habitat. Only two forms appear to occur on the walls of the valley or on the mountains, and nowhere else. These are the “kabar,” Capparis spinosa, and one or more crustaceous lichens. (See figs. 22 and 23.) The kabar is a large shrub, 1 to 2 meters high, which bears persistent and fairly large leaves. The shrub is uneaten by animals, owing to some disagreeable flavor, but is provided with small spines. The species is poorly represented, there being but few individuals, and it does not exhibit exposure preference, but grows in crevices between rocks, sometimes at the base of the walls, or wherever it can attain a foothold. I have seen lichens on the flat and horizontal upper surfaces only of a ridge of low mountains about 4 kilometers north of the valley of the M’Zab; search failed to reveal any on the north surface of the mountains or on any rocks vertically placed; their position would thus subject them to the greatest temperature ranges and to the most intense aridity (fig. 26).

THE VALLEY OF THE M’ZAB.

The bottom lands, as already has been shown, are relatively favorable for plant life; here the soil is the deepest and the water relations are the best. Accordingly we should expect to find in the valley of the M’Zab more plants than we have seen on the plain, and we will not be disappointed in these expectations; but it is almost certain that in primitive times the vegetation of the valley was even richer than at present. In fact we now find in the unprotected places only such plants as are too small for fuel or are not good for food, and the useful sorts are largely wanting. In other and similar valleys, which have not been so much disturbed by man as the M’Zab and where primitive conditions still largely obtain, there is a surprising wealth of vegetation. Such conditions were seen between Ghardaia and Ouargla and will be specially noted on another page.

At present no trees occur naturally in the valley in the vicinity of Ghardaia or any of the sister cities. The French portion of Ghardaia contains ornamental or shade trees, such as the ash, sycamore, and betoum. The largest native shrubs are a species of Tamarix, growing by the oued, and a few specimens of Zizyphus lotus, the latter confined to the side gulches and numbering half a dozen specimens. Among the most generally distributed plants in the valley are Peganum harmala (figs. 27 and 28) and Haloxylon articulatum; the former is a half-shrub of wide distribution in southern Algeria, occurring from Biskra on the north, and although not strictly confined to the flood-plains of the oued is most abundant where the soil is relatively deep. The leaves are rather large and do not appear to have unusual protection against drought. Like its relative in the southwestern portion of the United States, the creosote bush (Covillea tridentata), it is not eaten by any animals, although not armed and not poisonous. This species, therefore, is one of the few which to-day probably retains essentially the same distribution and appearance it had before the country was inhabited. It is interesting to note that Peganum is generally distributed through the M’Zab Valley, being especially abundant between Ben Isguen and Melika. Here in November Peganum, except where trodden under foot by the flocks and caravans, retained much of its foliage, although rain was said not to have fallen for twelve months. In the protected areas also, as will be mentioned below, this species was found to be fresh green, showing little or no indication of the long drought. Of other species found in unprotected places in the valley, Haloxylon articulatum and Henophyton deserti, although eaten by animals so as to be recognized only with difficulty, were also fairly abundant. There were found also Euphorbia guyoniana, called “le bain” by our French-speaking Arab helper, because it is used by the natives as a soap, and Nolletia chrysocomoides, Æluropus sp., and others.

PROTECTED AREAS NEAR GHARDAIA.

Of the plant habitats whose leading characteristics have been briefly given above, only the oasis and its gardens are secure against the inroads of animals. However, owing to the long settlement of the region, rather large tracts of land are at present in what must nearly approach their primitive condition. The areas referred to are the cemeteries, which, for the reason suggested, possess special interest to the botanist, showing briefly what plants might be expected to occur in the region naturally. The typical M’Zab cemetery is of varying size and surrounded by a stone wall. No plants are introduced to decorate it and no irrigation is practised within its walls. The only disturbance of the natural condition of the land is in the use for which it is set aside. The interments are so conducted that the ground appears to be always used progressively, that is, there is always an older portion and always a newer portion, and the part once used is never afterwards made use of again. From this fact, as well as others which need not be entered into, the more ancient portion of the cemeteries, after a lapse of several centuries, or even several decades, without disturbance, must be in essentially the same condition as regards the soil and water relations, which would be most affected by the fact of interment, that they were in pre-M’Zabite times.

Several cemeteries near Ghardaia and the other M’Zab towns vary greatly in their position as well as exposure; some are on the valley floor below the town of Ghardaia, and others are in side cañons; one is on the south wall of the valley with a northern exposure, and another is on the opposite wall and hence with a southern facing; one cemetery is on the edge of the plain itself. So far, therefore, as the flora of the older portions of these areas represent the ancient vegetation of the same areas, we have in them at present a means of learning something of the kinds as well as the abundance and the habits of the plants which formerly occurred here, and (by inference) of the plants which were in the region in primitive times.

Below and not far from Ghardaia, in the valley floor, is a very ancient cemetery, or rather a cemetery with a very ancient part. In the old portion the drifting sand has obliterated all traces of graves, which have long since been forgotten by the citizens of the town. In the newer portion, farther from the edge of the oued and on higher ground, the sand gives place to clay. In the older portion of the cemetery may be found a fairly rich flora and rather large plants—a striking contrast to the vegetation of the unprotected area immediately without the wall. Here one finds Haloxylon articulatum and Henophyton deserti, both species eagerly eaten by animals, as well as Deverra scoparia, Lithospermum callosum, Zilla macroptera, and Helianthemum sessiliflorum; also grasses and other plants which I did not know. Something of the abundance and the large size of the plants is indicated in figs. 29, 31, and 32.

In one of the cemeteries situated against the south wall of the valley, but not including the wall, the conditions are somewhat different from those just sketched; the soil is a sandy loam, with rocks of various sizes in abundance, and here may be found a fairly rich flora. In the ancient portion of this cemetery the most numerous species is perhaps Haloxylon articulatum, also Fagonia glutinosa, Fagonia bruguieri, Cleome arabica, Echinopsilon muricatus, Helianthemum sessiliflorum, Zollikoferia resediflora, Salsola sp., and others. The plants are relatively abundant and of fairly large size.

In a cemetery on the north wall of the valley, reaching from the floor to the plain above, the wall is less precipitous than at other places and there is a small amount of earth. The number of species here is very limited, being confined almost wholly to Haloxylon articulatum, which is fairly abundant; but in the upper portion of the cemetery are also found Peganum harmala and Capparis spinosa.

The cemetery situated wholly on the edge of the plain has an unexpectedly large number of plants, almost all of them Haloxylon articulatum, which is of good size. Outside this protected area the species is neither large nor abundant, since it is eagerly sought after by camels, sheep, and goats, and a shoot no sooner appears than it is eaten to the base.

The sentiments of the residents of Ghardaia, which led to the establishment and protection of the cemeteries, made a close botanical study of them injudicious. Enough was seen, however, to establish several points, the most important being, at least for the areas considered, that there is growing in them, without irrigation, a somewhat rich flora composed of relatively large perennials. And from this fact it seems probable, if also protected against the predatory attacks of animals, that other areas under the present rainfall and other physical environmental conditions now obtaining would support a much heavier vegetation than is generally the case. How far the presence of man and of his flocks has otherwise modified the flora, especially as regards its composition, is another question, but it certainly has not been without its effect. In the portions of the M’Zab region, except certain areas rather remote from the towns, where there is no protection, the only forms which are at all abundant, or at least conspicuous, are such as are armed, poisonous or distasteful, or too small for use as fuel. Among these are Peganum harmala, Zilla macroptera, Tamarix, and others seen later. However, Haloxylon articulatum, although eaten by all animals so as never to develop in a normal manner, is surprisingly abundant, although by no means conspicuous.

ROOT-HABITS IN THE GHARDAIA REGION.

Owing to the small amount of soil, close observation of the root-systems of the plants growing on the mountains and the plain was difficult; examination of the roots in the field was therefore carried on mostly in the valley, although enough was seen of the roots of plants in the other habitats to permit a characterization of them. The roots of several species growing on the hamada close to the valley were examined with the following as the leading results: Deverra scoparia was found to have a main root running directly downward 20 cm. without giving off large laterals; at that depth it forked, the resultant branches running thereafter in a horizontal direction. (See fig. 33.) Teucrium pseudo-chamæpitys, Centaurea pubescens, and Salvia ægyptica, all from the hamada to the north of the M’Zab Valley, have pronounced main roots. A similar type of root was seen in Zollikoferia resedifolia and Fagonia bruguieri from the plain to the south of the valley. Grasses growing on the plain had roots which, as usual with grasses, showed more diversity, but on the whole penetrated rather deeply. The root-system of Haloxylon articulatum is of the modified generalized type, penetrating deeply also, and will be best described as an inhabitant of the valley.

From these observations it would appear that the roots of most of the plants growing on the plain have a well-developed main root, and that few, if any, perennial roots lie near the surface of the ground. This condition is rather different from that seen at Laghouat, where the root-system of typical inhabitants of a similar habitat is of the strictly generalized type and may point to a difference in some character of the habitat—for instance, the precipitation at Ghardaia.

In certain portions of the floor of the M’Zab Valley the soil conditions favor full and normal development of all forms of root-systems, but in other portions, because of the presence of an impervious hardpan, such development is not possible. Where there is hardpan the presence of species with obligate tap-roots is precluded, while such as have a more flexible root-system (e.g., Peganum harmala) can to a degree accommodate themselves to the unfavorable soil conditions. However, one instance was seen, which will be reported below, where a plant with a tap-root was found growing on a hardpan stratum so hard as to be excavated with the greatest difficulty. The character of the root is very greatly modified by the presence of the hardpan. Following is a sketch of the root-systems of a few plants growing naturally in the valley.

Peganum harmala is one of the most characteristic plants of the floor of the M’Zab Valley; so far as my observations go, it usually occurs where there is much soil and where the water relations are the most favorable. Several studies of it were carried out on plants growing in different parts of the valley. In order to make the leading study of its roots, a typical habitat was selected east of Ghardaia and nearly in the midst of the valley. Here the upper soil, to a depth of about 20 cm., is a fine sand carrying water-worn pebbles and coarse stones. Below the sand is a denser stratum a few centimeters in thickness, but not the hardpan described in another place. Below the harder stratum, to an undetermined depth, are mingled sand and gravel coarser in texture than the superficial sand.

The first specimen of Peganum studied in this habitat was about 30 cm. high and in full leaf. Its roots were fibrous, that is, they were not fleshy. The root-system consisted of a main root, which ran directly downward 17 cm., and several laterals. Probably owing to the influence of the hard stratum, the main root at length turned abruptly and maintained a horizontal course for 1.5 meters. It was 1.35 cm. in diameter at the crown and 2 mm. in diameter where left, at a depth approximating 27 cm. The main root gave off a lateral 5.5 cm. from the surface of the ground, which also branched; the ultimate branches followed a fairly level course for 45 cm. At the sharp bend of the main root another branch arose and this branched in turn, the daughter branches going somewhat downward for over 43 cm. Branches from the latter roots descended to within 8 cm. of the surface. (See fig. 35.)

Differing in details, the roots of other individuals of the same species in the same habitat have on the whole a root-system essentially like the one just sketched. Even in relatively or actually deep soil the roots of this species do not penetrate deeply, but reach rather widely. They are of the generalized type, similar in many ways to the root-system of Covillea tridentata of the Tucson region. When growing in a habitat where hardpan comes close to the surface, the main root is not so well developed, but there is a better development of laterals than in the specimen more favorably situated as regards soil, in the habitat above alluded to.

Growing in or near the habitat of Peganum harmala, whose root-system has been sketched, were other species whose roots were also examined. Among these were Haloxylon articulatum and Euphorbia guyoniana; the former is one of the native plants most eagerly sought by animals for food, for which reason it was not found possible to secure for study specimens whose shoots were entirely normal; but the plants finally chosen were the least damaged of any found outside of the protected areas. The shoot of the specimen of Haloxylon examined was about 50 cm. high; its gnarled base showed that it had been subject to intermittent attacks by animals. It was found to have a main root which ran directly downward more than 30 cm.; at a depth of 10 to 15 cm. a few small laterals took their origin. (Fig. 36.) The other specimens studied showed the same type of root-system, so that Haloxylon has here a well-developed main root.

Growing not far from the two species whose root-systems have just been sketched, and under similar soil conditions, were several specimens of Euphorbia guyoniana, whose roots were also examined. This plant has a habit of growing in groups whose members are more or less widely separated. The first specimen studied was one of a colony of a half-dozen whose habit of growth is shown in fig. 38. Its shoot was about 15 cm. high and bore several narrow, smooth leaves, and was 2.5 mm. in diameter at the base. The shoot was found to go directly downward until it joined a horizontally placed fleshy root, from which the other individuals of the colony were seen to take their origin. This, apparently a root-stock, was 8 mm. in diameter and gave off two branches, 3 and 5 mm. in cross-section, which were also horizontally placed.