Part 9

All Crocuses may be easily increased by offsets, which may be detached when the corms are lifted. Seeds take about three years to produce flowering corms (see p. 34).

=DIERAMA= (=Sparaxis=) =pulcherrima.=--This is a charming South African plant with fibrous-coated corms, and long narrow sword-like leaves. It has beautiful funnel-shaped flowers, which droop from thread-like stalks about September and October, a period when they are sometimes injured by the bad weather. The blossoms, which are shown on Plate 31, fig. 112, are usually crimson in colour, but there also exist white, pale-red, and prettily-striped forms, all borne on stalks 3 to 6 feet high, and beautiful for cutting purposes. D. pendula, with deeply veined lilac flowers, is another species not so well known.

The plants cannot be considered hardy, except in the milder parts of the kingdom. In less favoured spots they may be planted in spring in warm sunny spots sheltered from cold winds, and if left in the ground in winter should be protected from cold rains and frosts with litter, bracken, lights, &c. A light sandy loam, with a little leaf-soil, will suit the plants best, and they may be increased by offsets.

=ERYTHRONIUM= (Dog's Tooth Violet).--These pretty plants of the Lily order have more or less oblong or cylindrical bulbs, sometimes with creeping rhizomes, and leaves more or less marbled or blotched or sometimes green. The 6-petalled blossoms are, more or less, drooping, but are usually conspicuous above the foliage and render the plants very attractive either in the rock-garden, flower-border, or grass-land. The plants like a moist sandy loam and leaf-soil, which, however, must be well drained so that the bulbs may not decay with the winter rains. Offsets are the easiest means of increasing the stock, and are best taken off after the flowers are over and the leaves have withered, i.e., about midsummer.

PLATE 18. CAMASSIA CUSICKI (70) LILIUM PYRENAICUM (71) ALLIUM ERDELII (72) IXIOLIRION PALLASI (73)

The Common Dog's Tooth Violet (E. Dens-Canis) is an old-world plant, and has been in cultivation many years. It has blue-green leaves, marbled with dull purple, and the flowers are of a soft rose or purple hue, although there are various shades (as shown on Plate 13, fig. 54), including a white one. There are now many other species and varieties in cultivation--all natives of temperate North America, and well worthy of a place in the garden. They all blossom from March to May, and vary in height from 3 to 12 inches. The following are the best known at present:--Albidum, white, tinged yellow, or wholly yellow in the variety bracteatum; americanum, golden yellow, tinged purple; citrinum, lemon yellow; Dens-Canis (see Plate 13, figs. 54 and 55); giganteum, white, suffused with orange or yellow; grandiflorum, yellow; Hartwegi, creamy-white and orange; Hendersoni, rose to purple with yellow centre; Howelli, yellow and orange; Johnstoni, rosy-pink (see Plate 12, fig. 94); montanum, creamy-white; propullans, rose-purple; purpurascens, pale yellow tinged purple, or lilac in the variety grandiflorum; this species has sometimes about a dozen flowers on a scape; and revolutum, pink to rosy-purple, or white with a yellow centre in the variety Bolanderi or Smithi.

=EUCOMIS punctata.=--This bold-looking plant is probably the best and most ornamental member of the genus. It has very large bulbs and tufts of gracefully spreading and recurved wavy leaves, bright shining green above, and densely spotted with purple beneath. The creamy-white or yellowish starry blossoms, with a conspicuous violet ovary in the centre, appear from July to September, and are packed close together on a stout purple spotted scape 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. Other species are bicolor, with unspotted leaves and greenish-yellow flowers; nana, which grows only about 9 inches high, has brownish-green blossoms; undulata, greenish-yellow ones; regia, white; and pallidiflora, with leaves over 2 feet long, and 4 inches or more broad, has greenish-white flowers.

They are all natives of South Africa, and may be grown in warm sheltered spots in the milder parts of the country. They like a rich and well-drained sandy loam, and if left undisturbed for a few years, will probably require protection in bleak localities from winter rains and frost. They may be increased by offsets. It takes four or five years to secure flowering bulbs from seeds.

=FERRARIA undulata.=--A distinct looking Iridaceous plant with tunicated bulbs, sword-like wavy leaves, and peculiar dull-purple flowers, each with six wavy segments spotted with purple, and appearing in March and April. This plant flourishes in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil, and may be considered fairly hardy in the milder parts of the kingdom. Increased by offsets.

=FRITILLARIA.=--There are fifty species or more belonging to this genus, but many of them, although highly interesting, are so dull in colour or small in blossom, that they are only likely to be met with in botanical collections. The common Crown Imperial (F. imperialis), shown in Plate 16, figs. 65 and 66, with its sturdy stems, 2 to 3 feet high, bright green wavy leaves, and bright yellow drooping blossoms, is probably the best known; but there are many forms of it in which the flowers vary in colour from yellow to orange and bright red. The Snake's Head (F. Meleagris) is another well-known species to be seen growing naturally in moist meadows in parts of England. Its beautiful white, rosy or purple blossoms (see Plate 8, fig. 33) droop from the stalks, 1 to 1-1/2 feet high in April and May, and are beautifully chequered with deeper coloured bands. For naturalising in the grass with Narcissi, Dog's Tooth Violets, &c., this is a very valuable plant. F. Moggridgei, a dwarf form of the purple, brown, and yellow delphinensis, is another good garden plant shown on Plate 8, fig. 31. The following kinds may be used for naturalising in the grass or for grouping in nooks of the rock-garden:--Fusco-lutea, aurea, citrina, lusitanica, lutea, askabadensis (finely figured in "FLORA AND SYLVA,") discolor, pallidiflora, pudica, Thunbergi, Whittalli, all with yellow or greenish-yellow blossoms, and ranging from 6 to 12 inches high. To these may be added F. recurva (Plate 8, fig. 34), a Californian species, about 1 foot high, and remarkable for its drooping bright orange-scarlet blossoms, the interior of which is yellow blotched with purple. F. camtschatcensis, the "Black Lily," has deep blackish-red flowers. It flourishes in moist sandy loam and peat.

F. Walujewi, with narrow tendril-tipped leaves, has silver-grey flowers suffused with purple brown, and spotted with red and white within (see Plate 8, fig. 32). To these may be added armena, dark purple; Elwesi, green and purple; pyrenaica, green and purple, spotted; persica or libanotica, chocolate, purple and green; latifolia, purple, lilac, yellow, &c.

The Fritillarias have bulbs of various sizes, and many of them--notably those of F. imperialis--emit a very strong and disagreeable odour. They produce offsets freely in most cases, and in this way the stock may be increased. The best time for lifting and transplanting the bulbs is after the foliage has withered.

PLATE 19. ORNITHOGALUM PYRAMIDALE (74) BREVOORTIA IDA-MAIA (75) BRODIAEA LAXA (76) BRODIAEA IXIOIDES (77)

=GAGEA lutea.=--This British plant, with small roundish bulbs, and long narrow leaves, is called the "Yellow Star of Bethlehem" on account of its yellow starry flowers, with a green central line, appearing from March to May on stalks about 6 inches high. It grows in ordinary garden soil and may be increased by offsets.

=GALANTHUS= (Snowdrop).--The common British Snowdrop (G. nivalis) is an old time garden favourite, not only on account of the purity of its blossoms--almost rivalling the whiteness of the snow--but because they appear during the very dullest months of the year, often before Christmas, and lasting till the Crocuses, early Narcissi, Chionodoxas, Bulbocodiums, Leucojums, &c., come to keep them company. A few blooms are shown on Plate 2, fig. 8, not because it was necessary to tell the reader what a Snowdrop was like, but to record the general appearance of other Snowdrops that are now to be met with in cultivation. The most important of these are Elwesi, with its varieties globosus and robustus, all of which have large flowers; Fosteri has been called the "King of Snowdrops" on account of its fine leaves and flowers. Other fine kinds are Imperati, latifolius, and plicatus, the last named recognised by its long broad and plaited leaves. Indeed there are many other varieties--including double-flowered ones--but it is doubtful if the ordinary observer would see any great difference between them and the best forms of the common Snowdrop. They all have roundish bulbs--some larger than others, and offsets are freely produced from them. They flourish in the border or rock-garden in rich sandy soil and leaf-mould, but their natural dwelling place is in the grass, where they should be planted in hundreds and thousands and left to take care of themselves, as they are in many gardens in the kingdom.

=GALTONIA= (=Hyacinthus=) =candicans.=--A noble-looking South African plant, with large roundish bulbs and strap-shaped leaves over 2 feet long. The pure white sweet-scented blossoms (shown on Plate 20, fig. 78) appear during the summer months, 20 or 30 in a raceme, drooping from stout stalks about 4 feet high. =G. princeps= is somewhat similar but not so attractive in appearance, as its white flowers are faintly tinged with green. Both kinds flourish in good garden soil and should be planted in bold clumps for effect in the flower border, and in warm sunny spots, where they may remain undisturbed for several years, until it is necessary to give them more space, or to detach the offsets for increasing the stock.

=GLADIOLUS= (Corn Flag; Sword Lily).--There are several species of Gladiolus rarely seen outside botanic gardens. The florists' varieties, like brenchleyensis, Colvillei, Childsi, gandavensis, Lemoinei, and nanceianus, are much more popular owing to the brilliancy and beauty of their blossoms. G. brenchleyensis (practically a form of gandavensis) is remarkable for its glowing scarlet flowers; G. Childsi (raised from gandavensis and Saundersi) attains a height of four or five feet, and has spikes of bloom often 2 feet or more long. The blossoms are 6 to 9 inches across, and possess many shades of purple, scarlet, crimson, salmon, white, pink, yellow, often beautifully mottled and blotched in the throat (Plate 28, fig. 105). G. Colvillei (raised from cardinalis and tristis) is an early-flowering plant about 2 feet high, with crimson purple and also pure white flowers--according to the variety. The form known as "The Bride" is the best white (Plate 21, fig. 81). Other early-flowering forms are shown in figs. 82 and 83. G. gandavensis (raised from cardinalis and psittacinus) forms a charming group as various in colour as the Childsi forms, the individual flowers being variously striped and blotched with distinct colours. G. Lemoinei (raised from purpureo-auratus and gandavensis) is the origin of a beautiful number of hybrids, distinguished by having a large golden-yellow blotch on the lower segments, bordered with scarlet, crimson, purple, maroon, &c. (Plate 28, fig. 104). The colours are as numerous and as delicate as in the Childsi and gandavensis sections. The nanceianus hybrids are remarkably fine plants, and are only comparable with those of the Childsi group, although the blossoms are not quite so large. The colours vary from purple, claret, violet, carmine, orange, red, scarlet, violet, &c., and are all spotted in various ways (see Plate 28, fig. 103).

The kinds of Gladioli just mentioned may be grown to perfection in a well-drained loamy soil, which has been deeply dug and well manured the autumn previous to planting. From the beginning to the end of March is an excellent time to plant the corms or tubers, each one being inserted in a hole made with a stout dibber, or in a drill about 4 or 5 inches deep, and about a foot apart. Having covered the corms and made the soil fairly firm, little more is needed beyond keeping weeds down, until the flower spikes begin to show in July and August. Short stakes may then be supplied so as to keep the trusses upright. To secure extra fine blossoms the plants, when well-established, should be watered two or three times a week with liquid cow-manure to which a little soot and guano has been added. During hot dry summers especially, copious waterings should be given.

PLATE 20. GALTONIA CANDICANS (78) SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM (79) BRODIAEA HOWELLI LILACINA (80)

When the flowers have faded, and the leaves begin to turn yellow, the corms may be taken up and carefully stored in a dry, airy, frost-proof place until the following March. New plants may be raised from the offsets, and also the spawn or cloves to be found at the base of the new corms. They should be detached and stored, and the following April may be sown like seeds in drills about two inches deep. The larger corms may also be carefully cut in two at planting time, the cut surfaces being dipped in powdered charcoal, soot, or freshly-slaked lime.

Where space will permit, the following natural species of Gladioli may also be grown:--G. blandus, 1 to 2 feet high, white, with red markings and a yellow tube; G. byzantinus, 2 feet, red, shaded with violet or purple; G. dracocephalus, 1 to 2-1/2 feet, soft yellow, striped and spotted with purple; G. floribundus, 1 foot, has flowers varying from white to flesh colour and deep red.

G. oppositiflorus has white flowers, washed with rose or purple (Plate 23, fig. 87); G. psittacinus, 3 feet, rich scarlet, lined and spotted with yellow; G. purpureo-auratus, 3 to 4 feet, sulphur yellow, blotched with purple; and G. Saundersi, 2 to 3 feet, crimson or soft scarlet, spotted with pink and white. As they are all natives of South Africa they should be planted in warm sunny spots in March or April, and lifted the following autumn when growth has ceased.

=HABRANTHUS pratensis.=--A pretty Chilian plant, with ovoid bulbs about 1-1/2 inches through, and narrow leaves 1 to 1-1/2 feet long. The funnel-shaped, orange-red or scarlet blossoms appear in early summer on stems 1 to 2 feet high. Rich sandy-loam and leaf-soil, and warm sheltered spots are most suitable for this plant. In bleak localities the bulbs must be protected in winter. Increased by offsets.

=HYACINTHUS= (Hyacinth).--The florists' Hyacinth, evolved from H. orientalis, has been for generations a great garden favourite, and is still amongst the most popular of bulbous plants for the decoration of the out-door garden, or for growing in conservatories, or the dwelling-house in more or less ornamental receptacles. There is a good deal of difference in the size of Hyacinth bulbs, but the reader must not imagine that the largest bulbs will throw up the best truss of flowers. Indeed it is often the case that quite a small bulb comparatively, will give a finer display than one much larger. Size, therefore, is not the main point about Hyacinth bulbs. Weight or density is the most important feature, and bulbs that are in any way soft or flabby may be regarded as useless.

=Hyacinths in the Open Air.=--What are known as "Bedding Hyacinths," to be had in various colours--red, rose, pink, white, blue, violet and yellow--are generally grown out of doors. They should be planted in October, or not later than November, 5 to 6 inches deep, and 6 to 8 inches apart, care being taken when planting round, oval, oblong, or other shaped beds to keep the lines or curves equidistant so as to secure uniformity in the results. The varieties should not be mixed when formal beds are planted. In vacant spaces in the flower border, however, mixed Hyacinths look very well. Although these Hyacinths will grow well in ordinary good garden soil that has been deeply dug, and contains some well-decayed manure, it may be said that a light sandy loam that has had some old cow-manure incorporated with it some weeks previously is regarded as the best. When the soil is naturally heavy it must be well turned up, and have plenty of sand or grit mixed with it as well as old manure. In such a soil, a further precaution may be taken to have a handful of sand placed in the hole under each bulb to further improve the drainage.

Combinations with out-door Hyacinths are sometimes made by covering the surface of the beds with such plants as Forget-me-Nots, Polyanthuses or Primroses, Silenes, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, and sometimes Narcissi bulbs are planted alternately with the Hyacinths, the object in all cases being to produce a fine effect and contrast in colours in spring. When the plants are in bloom they require but little attention, except perhaps a slender stick here and there to some flower-truss that has been blown down by the wind, or topples over with its own weight. As soon as the blossoms have withered, the flower stems should be cut away, leaving the still green leaves to assimilate food until they begin to turn yellow. The yellowing leaves indicate that the bulbs may be taken up, dried, and cleaned, and stored away in cool airy places until the following September or October. As Hyacinths, however, deteriorate in our fickle climate, it is better to buy new bulbs each year for planting formal beds, while the old ones may be planted in ordinary flower border or shrubbery.

PLATE 21. EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI (81-83)

=Hyacinths in Glasses, &c.=--Ornamental bowls, glasses, vases, &c., of various designs afford an easy and interesting means for growing Hyacinths in the dwelling house. Many fail to have good results with Hyacinths grown in these receptacles because they allow the bulbs to touch the water, or they place them in too high a temperature to begin with. The bulbs should not actually touch the water, the base being little more than 1/8-inch away from the surface. They should then be stood in a dark place with a temperature of about 40 deg. to 45 deg. F., until roots have developed into the water. The plants may then be exposed to more light, after which all that is necessary is to change the water occasionally, about once a week, so that the roots may secure a fresh supply of oxygen. The finest bulbs give the best results naturally when grown in this way. What are known as "Miniature Hyacinths" are suitable for growing in bowls, vases, &c., in moist moss and charcoal, or in Jadoo fibre, or even in coco-nut fibre. Indeed, Hyacinths generally may be grown more easily, perhaps, in this way, instead of in water, the only point to bear in mind being to get the roots started in a cool place before the flower-stem and leaves begin to grow.