Part 7

Next powder the face, and curl and perfume the mustache. If you think his hair needs trimming tell him so, and if he has it done, do your very best, even taking pains to cut the hair out of his ears. Shave his neck. The most important point is to get a good edge on the hair.

If he takes a shampoo, first give the scalp a good brushing to loosen the dandruff, and then use Silver Gloss Shampoo, giving him to understand that you have it for sale for family use. Rinse hair with warm soft water, and dry with a fine bath towel, and then ask him if you shall apply some of the hair tonic which will cost him only ten cents extra.

Comb his hair in the latest style, and if he desires it, color his mustache with the celebrated German Hair Dye. Help him into his coat, and thanking him bid him come again.

Purchase every good book pertaining to your business, study diligently and practice what you learn, and you will soon stand abreast with the best and most progressive barbers. You should be prompted by no meaner ambition.

SUCCESS.

“If you wish success in life, Make perseverance your bosom friend, Experience your wise counselor, Caution your elder brother, And hope your guardian genius.” Addison.

Taxidermist's Manual.

By T. J. MCCONNAUGHAY.

Taxidermy.

The word taxidermy is derived from the two Greek words, taxis, which means arrangement, and derma which means skin. Hence this term is applied to the art of preserving and mounting the skins of animals for ornamental and scientific purposes. Little is known of the origin of this art, but it would seem from books of travel and natural history, that it is at most, not more than three hundred years old. It began to be practiced in England about the beginning of the 18th century, which fact is proven from the “Sloane Collection” which was formed in 1825, as the nucleus of the present natural history collection lodged in the galleries of South Kensington. It was about the middle of the 18th century that the first book devoted to the principles of taxidermy was published in France. After this, others appeared from time to time in France and Germany, but England contributed no literature on the subject until about the beginning of the present century. In 1828 an Englishman named Scudder, established a museum of mounted specimens in an old alms house in New York City. Previous to this, the art seems to have been absolutely unknown in America. It was not till the exhibition of 1851, that the French and German taxidermists taught the English the principles of scientific treatment.

Since that time several works have appeared from the pens of English and American authors. Prominently among the American writers, were Charles Waterton and Titian R. Peale who greatly improved the art in this country.

Jules Verreaux, of Paris, brought the art to a still higher perfection, and introduced methods for giving to specimens a life-like expression, which elevated it quite to the realm of higher art. Great were his accomplishments in the art of expressing the actions and characteristic attitudes of the living animals. Since his day taxidermy has rivaled the plastic art, and today, it has reached such a degree of perfection that the most artistic and æsthetic effects may be wrought by the hands of any operator who possesses artistic faculties. The Illinois State Natural History Society of Bloomington, published an illustrated pamphlet from the pen of one Mr. Holder, which is a very valuable contribution to taxidermic literature. The author was doubtless greatly improved by his associations with Audubon and Bell, and in his book he gives the results of a ripe experience. This book ranks as one of the best yet published. We submit the results of our own patient study and practical experience, and hope it may prove a worthy addition.

ARTICLE I. ON SKINNING, STUFFING AND PRESERVATION OF BIRDS.

SKINNING.

Immediately after the bird is killed, the nostrils, throat and wounds should be stuffed with cotton to prevent the blood from oozing out and staining the plumage; but should any blood get on the plumage, it should be removed as soon as possible. This can be done by taking a cloth or sponge and dipping it in clean water, wringing it out so as to leave it only moist, and rubbing the feathers gently until all traces of blood stain are removed. Now sprinkle the feathers with plaster of paris, and shake out before it sets. Repeat this until they are perfectly dry, and then wrap the specimen in paper to protect the plumage until ready to skin, which should be done as soon as the bird cools.

In proceeding to skin a bird, spread a cloth on a board or table and lay the bird on its back. Separate the feathers on the breast with a scalpel or knife. Insert the knife at the top of breast-bone and cut the skin from there to the tail. Great care should be taken not to cut too deep over the intestines, as it is only necessary to cut through the skin. Now begin where you first inserted the knife and proceed to separate the skin from the flesh, either with the fingers or the back of the scalpel or knife. Tear some small pieces of paper, say about an inch square, and put under the skin on the flesh as you get them separated, which will keep the feathers from sticking to the flesh and becoming soiled; or sprinkling cornmeal over the flesh and skin while skinning, will answer the same purpose. Press carefully down each side to backbone. Now press the thighs forward and inward, draw the skin from the thighs, unjointing them at the first joint from the body.

The skin is now removed over the rump, and the tail unjointed, taking care not to injure the tail feathers. Now for convenience, take a cord and fasten it to a nail on the wall or ceiling, put a wire hook on the other end, and fasten in the bird so you can suspend it high enough above the table to work on it easily. Now pull the skin downwards until you get to the wings, which are to be unjointed at the shoulder joint. It is then pulled down over the skull until the ears are reached. Here many valuable specimens are spoiled by cutting the ears too close to the skin, so be sure to cut the ears close to the skull.

The eyelids are often spoiled also by inexperienced hands. Be sure and cut them well back and, if necessary, trim them afterwards. Now remove the eyeballs and unjoint the skull from the neck, enlarge the opening at the base of skull, where the neck came off, and remove the brain with spoon made for that purpose. Now remove the flesh from the thigh bone down to knee joint, and turn them back in place; then skin the wings out to first joint and remove the flesh. There is yet one job and the skinning process is completed. Divide the feathers on the under side of the wing between the second and third joints, cut the skin, and with a sharp knife cut out all flesh from the bone, and put in some of the preserving powder; cover it with a little cotton and sew it up, being careful not to draw any of the feathers in; press the feathers down smooth, and see that each is in its proper place.

There are some birds with large heads and small necks. With these we cannot draw the skin over the head, but have to push the skin as near the head as it is possible, and cut off the neck bone; then make an opening under the throat large enough to turn out the skull and the remaining part of the neck bone, and proceed to skin the skull, take out brain, etc., as directed heretofore. The flesh must be carefully removed from all parts of the skin, and the preserving powder applied, being very careful that all parts are well powdered.

If you now wish to mount the bird it can be done immediately.

STUFFING BIRDS.

In the first place take some plaster paris, mix it with water to a stiff paste, and fill the eye-sockets with it, then press the glass eye in the paris, using great care to set them in as near a natural position as possible. When the plaster has hardened, which it does very quickly, if the skin has become dry, dampen it with a damp sponge, and turn it back over the skull, then lay the bird on the table and proceed to put in the frame, stuff and sew up.

I give three kinds of frames. One is the wire and wood frame, which you see on page 78, Figs. 9 and 10. The others, wire frames, on page 80, Fig. 3, for birds; also Fig. 11, for humming birds and other small birds, on page 78.

Take frame described Nos. 9 and 10, having the leg wire AA detached from body board, fill the neck with tow, being careful not to fill it too full; run neck wire E through the center of the neck and pass it out at the top of head, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, or through one of the nostrils. I prefer the latter, because it does not break the skin and holds the head more steady. Then put the tail support E through the center or heavy part of the tail, raise the body board and place under it some tow or cotton; or pad the board by placing some cotton on it and tacking some cloth over it to keep the frame off from the back; then take the leg wires, Fig. 13, AA and put them in the legs, as shown in cut No. 3, and fasten on to the body board with blind staples, as represented in cut No. 3; proceed with the stuffing; finish filling out the neck and breast, shaping it while filling, using care not to get it too full, as that is a fault of most beginners; after filling it down to the opening, the next should be the legs; if the leg bone is left in from the knee up, wrap it to the leg wire with a strip of muslin and tie it; then stuff the leg up to the body, fill the body and sew up; in sewing be careful not to draw any of the feathers down with the thread. After it is all sewed up, place all the feathers down smooth and in their proper place, as much depends on this.

Next place the specimen on a board or perch; if on a board, procure a suitable one, bore two holes the size of the leg wires through it, then make a groove on the under side of board running off from each hole to lay wire down in; place the specimen on the board, running the leg wires through it, and draw the wires down until the legs set in proper position, bend the wires down into the grooves and fasten them with small blind staples. In this connection one should use his own judgment in placing the bird on the board; one leg should generally be placed a little in advance of the other. If the bird is to be placed on a limb perch, bore the holes through the limb, place the bird on, and draw the wires tight, and drive a wooden wedge in beside the wire to hold it, then file the wire off close to the under side of the perch. Pose the bird in as natural a position as you can, imitating nature as near as possible. Place the wings in position, then take a piece of wire heavy enough to hold the wings in place. Sharpen one end, and make a square turn about one-fourth of an inch from the other end to keep it from pulling through the wing. Now place the wings in proper shape. Pass the wire through the wings and body in a way to hold them in shape. Pull the wire until the turn on the one end presses against the wing. Cut the wire on other side of bird and turn it back, as on the other side, so that the wire cannot be pulled either way; then arrange the whole body—wings, neck, tail, head, etc. In case the specimen is a web-footed bird, take a thin piece of board, say from a cigar box, cut it to fit in between the toes, and tack them in to hold the web in shape while drying. This should be removed when dry. After all is completed bathe the buts of wings, the feet, legs and beak, with the preserving fluid; this should be repeated for three or four days. Then let the specimen dry in a shady place. It can then be placed on another board or perch and set in the cabinet.

MOUNTING BIRDS ON WIRE FRAME.

(See directions for making frame.)

Skin the bird and prepare it as directed in this article. Fill the neck with tow, put in neck wire, letting the end come out through the nostril; bend leg wires AA back so as to get them in the legs; run them down on the inside of the leg, or through the center of leg bone, and come out in the center of the foot. (See cuts Nos. 2 and 3.) Put tail support E through the under part of the tail, and proceed as directed heretofore in this article, to stuff, sew up, etc.