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Part 5

Barbers' Manual (part 1) · T. J. McConnaughay — chapter 5 of 14 · ~1,224 words · public domain

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Fear of this disease causes many men to shave themselves, and this class would otherwise be among the very best customers.

When these men observe how careless the average barber is with his towels, mugs, tools, etc., they become disgusted and purchase a shaving outfit and quit the barbers' chair, except when they want a hair-cut.

I believe every barber should know how to treat this disease. Hence I will make a few suggestions as to its causation and treatment.

Scabies, or itch, in its various forms is a disease caused by the irritation produced from the presence in the skin of what is called the itch mite and the ova of the same. The cure involves the destruction of these parasites. Get a doctor, if possible, to prescribe; if no doctor can be got who understands it, I would try the following: An ointment made from the flour of sulphur and lard or sulphur and vaseline, is about the best remedy known. Rub in well at night and wash off in morning. Or take citron ointment 1 ounce and mutton tallow 1 ounce. Melt together and stir till cool. This I have found one of the best salves for all skin diseases I have ever tried. Apply twice a day, but use with care since it contains mercury.

HAIR OILS AND HAIR DRESSINGS.

While oiling the hair is a thing of the past, we might indulge a few remarks as a matter of history. Thirty years ago almost every customer used oil on his hair, and every barber was expected to know how to mix his own oils. A favorite preparation was made as follows: 1 pint of alcohol and 1½ pints of castor-oil were shaken together, and then perfumed with citronella or bergamot.

Another favorite was made of raccoon oil and lard mixed half and half, and perfumed with the oil of cloves.

Some used the coon oil straight; others used the oil of birds, geese, chickens or ducks, etc. Bear oil was considered a great oil for the hair as well as for many other purposes. My own favorite among all the home made preparations was made from beef marrow. The marrow was tried out and a little salt was added. The oil was then perfumed with bergamot.

POMADES.

In selecting material for pomade, have a butcher get you some fine leaf lard and some of the finest suet, which should be taken from young animals. Render out separately in porcelain vessels and strain off.

DIRECTIONS.—Take lard 1 pound, tallow 1 pound; mix them and heat gently, and cook for one hour over a slow fire; remove and let stand a few minutes to settle; now pour off carefully. When almost cold add some suitable perfume, say oil of bergamot 4 drachms, oil of lemon 3 drachms, oil of cassia 2 drachms, oil of nutmeg 75 drops. Mix thoroughly with the pomade and pour into small jars.

STICK POMADES.

Take of the prepared tallow 1 pound, pure, clean bees wax 3 ounces, gum benzoin, in a coarse powder, 1¼ drachms. Melt together with a slow heat, mixing all the while. When partly cooled add some suitable perfume. Pour it off in moulds and when cold take out and wrap in tin foil, then put on a nice label as outer covering.

To make the above into a coloring pomade, take 3 pounds of the prepared lard and tallow, before being perfumed; add to it 2 pounds of fresh walnut hulls, cut up fine; put into a porcelain vessel and heat gently for four hours. Take off and strain, and proceed as in making the black pomade. This will gradually color the hair or beard to a nice brown by being used daily until the desired shade is obtained.

HOW TO STOP BLOOD.

Every barber should have at hand a preparation for stopping blood. The best of barbers are liable to bring blood from rough or tender faces. An astringent pencil, which is very good and very handy, may be obtained from the barber supply houses in the cities at a cost of only 10 cents each. However, I prefer Monsell's Powdered Iron which may be obtained from any drug store. The only objection to it is, it is liable to discolor the skin. However, by being careful to put on only a small amount, it may easily be washed off when the blood has ceased to ooze.

If a small bump has been cut off or a shallow cut made in the smooth skin, it will generally suffice to cover it with a thick lather and let it remain until the shaving is completed.

Alum is also used but is too slow in its action.

HAIR RESTORERS.

I could give a formula that would make the hair fall out, but thus far I have not been able to find a preparation that will produce a new growth of hair on bald heads. As a preventative treatment I might suggest as follows:

Boil burdock root in soft water until strong, and then add to one pint of it, a half pint of alcohol, a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 ounce of glycerine. This used once a day will prevent the hair from falling out. Or make a strong decoction of black tea or sage and mix with the alcohol, salt, and glycerine as above and use as above.

The basis of most hair tonics is the tincture of cantharides, quinine, ammonia, camphor, and salt. A solution of borax in camphor water is used by some as a stimulant for the scalp. I have a friend who is experimenting on a new line with very encouraging prospects of successfully producing hair on bald heads. If any party interested will address me a few months hence, I may be able to advise them how to reproduce hair on bald heads.

GLASS HONES.

A glass hone is easily made, and no barber should be without one. Procure a piece of heavy plate glass and have a glass cutter cut it into pieces 3×8 inches in dimensions. Take the gloss off the face and also around the edges on a grindstone, and then finish by rubbing the face of the hone with pumice-stone kept wet with water. Continue this rubbing until the gloss is entirely removed and the hone is smooth. Before honing take a rubber, such as is used on a water hone, and, after wetting hone rub until you have a sort of lather. Hone on this as you would on any other hone. You will find it excellent for smoothing shears after grinding, or a razor after having been over honed.

MUGS, BRUSHES AND SOAPS.

The mug should be large and heavy and the brush used to make the lather should also be large and first-class in every particular. In regard to brushes, I would suggest that it pays to buy the very best.

A poor brush that is continually shedding hairs is very annoying to the customer, and it hinders the barber. I prefer the rubber ferruled brush, but be sure to get the genuine.

In regard to soap I must admit that I am partial to the J. B. Williams barber soap. However, there are other brands that give good satisfaction. There are no soaps too good. Hence get the best.

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