Part 3

1. TAPESTRY--to illustrate work on a warp not on a web. From Akhmin in Upper Egypt. Ancient Coptic. (In the Victoria and Albert Museum.)

2. DRAWN-WORK ON FINE LINEN, embroidered with gold and colour. Oriental. (From the collection of Mrs. Lewis F. Day.)

3. DARNING AND SATIN-STITCH on square mesh--The darning leaf, green, follows the lines of the stuff; outlined with yellow, veined with pink and white; stem, yellow, its foliation pink, outlined with white, and ribbed with blue and white. Italian. 17th century. (V. & A. M.)

4. CROSS-STITCH UPON LINEN. Hungarian. Compare Illustration 45.

5. CROSS-STITCH SAMPLER--A and B, solid; C, line work; D, stroke-stitch--called also Holbein-stitch; E, stroke and cross stitches combined.

6. CANVAS-STITCH in coloured silk upon linen. The band Italian, the foliated diaper Oriental. (Mrs. L. F. D.)

7. CANVAS-STITCH--Design comparatively free, but showing in its outline the influence of the rectangular lines of the weaving. Cretan. (Mrs. L. F. D.)

8. CANVAS-STITCH SAMPLER--A, tent-stitch; B, half-cross-stitch; C, cushion-stitch; D, Moorish-stitch, so called; E, plait-stitch; F, couching on canvas.

9. CUSHION AND SATIN-STITCHES UPON CANVAS--The Satin-stitches follow the lines of the stuff, and form a diaper built upon them. Compare Illustration 71.

10. TWO VARIETIES OF CANVAS-STITCH, the pattern in the bare linen, the background worked--A, plait-stitch, the ornament outlined; B, stitches drawn tightly together so as to pull the threads of the linen apart, giving very much the effect of drawn-work. Compare Illustration 2. (Mrs. L. F. D.)

11. CREWEL-STITCH SAMPLER--A and C, crewel-stitch; B and D, outline-stitch; E, back-stitch; F, spots; G and H, stem-stitch; J, crewel and outline-stitches in combination.

12. BACK OF CREWEL-STITCH SAMPLER.

13. CREWEL-WORK--the stem only worked in crewel-stitch. Embroidered in green, blue, and brown wools upon white cotton. Old English. (Coll. of Miss Argles.)

14. CREWEL-WORK, in which crewel-stitch hardly occurs. Embroidered in coloured wools upon white cotton. Old English. (Coll. of J. M. Knapp, Esq.)

15. CREWEL-STITCH IN TWISTED SILK. The scroll in green upon a brownish-purple ground; the smaller leafage upon the scroll in brighter green; the flowers and butterflies in blue and pink. Modern. (Mrs. L. F. Day.)

16. CHAIN-STITCH AND KNOTS--Part of the same piece of work as Illustration 24. Indian. (V. & A. M.)

17. CHAIN-STITCH SAMPLER--A, chain-stitch solid and in line; B, magic stitch; C, church chain; D, cable chain; E, Vandyke chain; F, Mountmellic chain; G, Mountmellic cable--all so called.

18. BACK OF CHAIN-STITCH SAMPLER.

19. CHAIN AND SURFACE STITCHES--the latter a kind of buttonholing, only occasionally worked into the stuff. Part of a lectern cover in white thread upon a thin, greyish white linen stuff. German, 14th century. (V. & A. M.)

20. HERRINGBONE SAMPLER--A, B, C, varieties of herring-bone; D, a combination of A and C; E, fishbone; F, a close variety of A; G, tapestry stitch, so called.

21. BACK OF HERRINGBONE SAMPLER.

22. BUTTONHOLE SAMPLER--A, B, C, ordinary buttonhole and variations upon it; D, two rows of buttonhole worked slanting one into the other; E, crossed buttonhole; F, tailor's buttonhole; G, ladder (called also Cretan) stitch; H, herringbone buttonhole; J, buttonhole diaper.

23. BACK OF BUTTONHOLE SAMPLER.

24. BUTTONHOLE, CHAIN, AND KNOT STITCHES--chiefly in white floss silk on dark purple satin, with touches of crimson at the points from which the stitches radiate. The rings on the outer ground are not worked, but done in the dyeing of the satin. Part of the same piece of work as 16. Modern Indian from Surat. (V. & A. M.)

25. FEATHER-STITCH SAMPLER--A to G, ordinary feather-stitch and its variations; G G, feather chain.

26. BACK OF FEATHER-STITCH SAMPLER.

27. ORIENTAL-STITCH SAMPLER--A to E, Oriental-stitch and its varieties; F, Oriental-stitch worked into buttonhole; G, not properly a form of Oriental-stitch, though bearing some resemblance to it.

28. BACK OF ORIENTAL-STITCH SAMPLER.