A Visit to the Holy Land, Egypt, and Italy

Chapter Ii. Giurgewo--Interior of the Town--Braila--Sanitary

precautions--Galatz--Scarcity of good water--Ridiculous fear of the plague--The steamer Ferdinand--Entrance into the Black Sea--Stormy weather and sea-sickness--Arrival at Constantinople--Picturesque appearance of the city--Mosques--The dancing Dervishes--The Sultan and his barge--Pera--The great and little Campo--Wild dogs--Dirty state of the streets--Preparations in case of fire

Chapter Iii. Scutari--Kaiks--the Howling Dervishes--the

Achmaidon, or place of arrows--The tower in Galata--The bazaar at Constantinople--Mosques--Slave-market--The old Serail--The Hippodrome--Coffee-houses--Story-tellers--Excursion to Ejub--Houses, theatres, and carriages

Chapter Iv. Walks and Drives of the Townspeople--the "sweet

Waters"--Chalcedonia--Baluklid--The great and little Campo--Feasts in Constantinople--Anniversary of Mahomet's death--Easter holydays of the Greeks--Gladiators and wrestlers--Excursion to Brussa--Olive- trees--Mosques at Brussa--Stone bridge--Wild dogs--Baths and mineral springs--Return to Constantinople

Chapter V. Contradictory Reports--Departure From Constantinople

on board the Archduke John--Scene on the steamer--Galipoli--The Dardanelles--Tschenekalesi and Kilidil Bahar--The field of Troy-- Tenedos--Smyrna--Halizar--The date-palm--Burnaba--The Acropolis-- Female beauty--Rhodes--Strong fortifications--Deserted appearance of the town--Cyprus

Chapter Vi. Arrival At Beyrout--Fellahs--Backsheesh--

Uncomfortable quarters--Saida--Tyre--St. Jean d'Acre--Caesarea-- Excursion among the ruins--Jaffa--An Eastern family--The Indian fig- tree--An Oriental dinner--Costume of the women of Jaffa--Oppressive heat--Gnats--Ramla--Syrian convents--Bedouins and Arabs--Kariet el Areb, or Emmaus--The scheikh--Arrival at Jerusalem

Chapter Vii. Residence At Jerusalem--Catholic Church--the "nuova

Casa"--Via dolorosa--Pilate's house--The Mosque Omar--Herod's house-- Church of the Holy Sepulchre--Disturbances at the Greek Easter feasts--Knights of the Holy Sepulchre--Mount of Olives--Adventure among the ruins--Mount of Offence--Valley of Jehosaphat--Siloam-- Mount Sion--Jeremiah's Grotto--Graves

Chapter Viii. Bethlehem--Rachel's Grave--Convent At Bethlehem--

Beggars--Grotto of the Nativity--Solomon's cisterns--St. John's-- Franciscan church at Jerusalem--Mourning women--Eastern weddings-- Mish-mish--Excursion to the Jordan and the Dead Sea--Wilderness near Jerusalem--Convent of St. Saba

Chapter Ix. Ride Through the Wilderness to the Dead Sea--the

Dead Sea--The river Jordan--Horde of Bedouins--Arab horses--The Sultan's well--Bivouac in the open air--Return to Jerusalem-- Bethany--Departure from Jerusalem--Jacob's grave--Nablus or Sichem-- Sebasta--Costume of Samaritan woman--Plain of Esdralon--Sagun

Chapter X. Arrival At Nazareth--Franciscan Convent--Tabarith--

Mount Tabor--Lake of Gennesareth--Baths--Mount Carmel--Grotto of the prophet Elijah--Acre--The pacha's harem--Oriental women--Their listlessness and ignorance--Sur or Tyre

Chapter Xi. River Mishmir--Saida--Arnauts--Desert-Path--

Residence of Lady Hester Stanhope--Beyrout--The consul's-- Uncomfortable quarters--Sickness--The Bazaar--Vexatious delays-- Departure from Beyrout--Beautiful views--Syrian costumes--Damascus-- Aspect of the city--House of the consul

Chapter Xii. the Bazaar At Damascus--the Khan--Grotto of St.

Paul--Fanaticism of the inhabitants--Departure from Damascus--The desert--Military escort--Heliopolis or Balbeck--Stupendous ruins-- Continuation of our voyage through the desert--The plague--The Lebanon range--Cedar-trees--Druses and Maronites--Importunate beggars--Thievish propensities of the Arabs

Chapter Xiii. the Lebanon--Druses and Maronites--Illness of Herr

Sattler--Djebel or Byblus--Rocky passes--Dog's-river--Return to Beyrout--Sickness--Departure for Alexandria--Roguery of the captain-- Disagreeables on board--Limasol--Alarm of pirates--Cowardice of the crew--Arrival at Alexandria

Chapter Xiv. Alexandria--Keeping Quarantine--Want of Arrangement

in the quarantine-house--Bad water--Fumigating of the rooms-- Release--Aspect of the city--Departure by boat for Atfe--Mehemet Ali--Arrival at Atfe--Excellence of the Nile water--Good-nature of the Arab women--The Delta of the Nile--The Libyan desert--The pyramids--Arrival at Cairo

Chapter Xv. Cairo--Quarrel With the Captain--Rapacity of the

beggars--The custom-house--The consulate--Aspect of Cairo--Narrow and crowded streets--Costumes--The mad-house--Disgusting exhibition-- Joseph's well--Palace of Mehemet Ali--Dates--Mosques at Cairo-- Excursion to the pyramids of Gizeh--Gizeh--Eggs hatched by artificial heat--Ascent of the pyramids--The sphynx--Return to Cairo

Chapter Xvi. Christian Churches At Cairo--the Esbekie-Square--

Theatre--Howling dervishes--Mashdalansher, the birthday of Mahomet-- Procession and religious ceremony--Shubra--Excursion through the desert to Suez--Hardships of the journey--Scenes in the desert--The camel--Caravans--Mirage--The Red Sea--Suez--Bedouin Camp--Quarrel with the camel-driver--Departure for Alexandria

Chapter Xvii. Return to Alexandria--Egyptian Burials--Catacombs of

Alexandria--Viceroy's palace--Departure from Alexandria--The steamer Eurotas--Candia--Syra--Paros and Antiparos--The Morea--Fire on board--Malta--Quarantine--St. Augustine's church--Clergymen-- Beggars--Costumes--Soldiers--Civita Vecchia

Chapter Xviii. the Steamer Hercules--Syracuse--Neapolis--Ruins--

Catanea--Convent of St. Nicholas--Messina--The Duke of Calabria-- Palermo--The royal palace--Church of St. Theresa--St. Ignazio-- Catacombs of the Augustine convent--Skeletons--Olivuzza--Royal villa "Favorite"--St. Rosalia--Brutality of the Italian mob--Luxuriant vegetation--Arrival at Naples

Chapter Xix. Sojourn At Naples--Sickness--Laziness of the People--

Royal palace--Rotunda--Strada Chiaga and Toledo--St. Carlo Theatre-- Largo del Castello--Medina Square--Marionettes--St. Jesu Nuovo--St. Jesu Maggiore--St. Maria di Piedigrotta--Public gardens--Academy "degli Studii"--Cathedral of St. Januarius--St. Jeronimi--St. Paula Maggiore--St. Chiara--Baths of Nero--Solfatara--Grotto "del Cane"-- Resina--Ascent of Vesuvius--Caserta

Chapter Xx. Caserta--Costume of the Peasants--Rome--Piazza Del

Popolo--Dogana--St. Peter's--Palaces--Borghese, Barberini, Colonna, etc.--Churches--Ancient Rome--The Colliseum--Departure for Florence- Bad weather--Picturesque scenery--Siena--Florence--Cathedral and palaces--Departure from Florence--Bologna--Ferrara--Conclusion

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

1. JERUSALEM 2. NAZARETH 3. CHURCHYARD AT SCUTARI 4. THE DEAD SEA 5. MOUNT CARMEL 6. LEBANON 7. BALBECK 8. ISTHMUS OF SUEZ

CHAPTER I.. Departure From Vienna--Scene on Board the Steamer--Hainburg--

Departure from Vienna--Scene on board the steamer--Hainburg-- Presburg--The "Coronation-mount"--Pesth--Ofen--The steamer Galata-- Mohacs--The fortress Peterwardein--Discomfort and bad management on board the steamer--Semlin--Belgrade--Pancsova--Austrian soldiers-- The rock Babakay--Drenkova--Falls of the Danube--Alt-Orsova--The "Iron Gate"--Cattle-breeding--Callafat--Vexatious delay.

I had for years cherished the wish to undertake a journey to the Holy Land; years are, indeed, required to familiarise one with the idea of so hazardous an enterprise. When, therefore, my domestic arrangements at length admitted of my absence for at least a year, my chief employment was to prepare myself for this journey. I read many works bearing on the subject, and was moreover fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of a gentleman who had travelled in the Holy Land some years before. I was thus enabled to gain much oral information and advice respecting the means of prosecuting my dangerous pilgrimage.

My friends and relations attempted in vain to turn me from my purpose by painting, in the most glowing colours, all the dangers and difficulties which await the traveller in those regions. "Men," they said, "were obliged gravely to consider if they had physical strength to endure the fatigues of such a journey, and strength of mind bravely to face the dangers of the plague, the climate, the attacks of insects, bad diet, etc. And to think of a woman's venturing alone, without protection of any kind, into the wide world, across sea and mountain and plain,--it was quite preposterous." This was the opinion of my friends.

I had nothing to advance in opposition to all this but my firm unchanging determination. My trust in Providence gave me calmness and strength to set my house in every respect in order. I made my will, and arranged all my worldly affairs in such a manner that, in the case of my death (an event which I considered more probable than my safe return), my family should find every thing perfectly arranged.

And thus, on the 22d of March 1842, I commenced my journey from Vienna.

At one o'clock in the afternoon I drove to the Kaisermuhlen (Emperor's Mills), from which place the steamboats start for Pesth. I was joyfully surprised by the presence of several of my relations and friends, who wished to say farewell once more. The parting was certainly most bitter, for the thought involuntarily obtruded itself, "Should we ever meet again in this world?"

Our mournful meditations were in some degree disturbed by a loud dispute on board the vessel. At the request of a gentleman present, one of the passengers was compelled, instead of flying, as he had intended, with bag and baggage to Hungary, to return to Vienna in company of the police. It appeared he owed the gentleman 1300 florins, and had wished to abscond, but was luckily overtaken before the departure of the boat. This affair was hardly concluded when the bell rang, the wheels began to revolve, and too soon, alas, my dear ones were out of sight!

I had but few fellow-passengers. The weather was indeed fine and mild; but the season was not far enough advanced to lure travellers into the wide world, excepting men of business, and those who had cosmopolitan ideas, like myself. Most of those on board were going only to Presburg, or at farthest to Pesth. The captain having mentioned that a woman was on board who intended travelling to Constantinople, I was immediately surrounded by curious gazers. A gentleman who was bound to the same port stepped forward, and offered his services in case I should ever stand in need of them; he afterwards frequently took me under his protection.

The fine mild weather changed to cold and wind as we got fairly out into the great Danube. I wrapped myself in my cloak, and remained on deck, in order to see the scenery between Vienna and Presburg, which, no doubt, appears lovely enough when nature is clad in the garment of spring; but now I only saw leafless trees and fallow ground--a dreary picture of winter.

Hainburg with its old castle on a rock, Theben with its remarkable fortress, and farther on the large free city of Presburg, have all a striking appearance.

In three hours' time we reached Presburg, and landed in the neighbourhood of the Coronation-hill, an artificial mound, on which the king must stand in his royal robes, and brandish his sword towards the four quarters of the heavens, as a token that he is ready to defend his kingdom against all enemies, from whatever direction they may approach. Not far from this hill is situate the handsome inn called the "Two Green Trees," where the charges are as high, if not higher, than in Vienna. Until we have passed Pesth, passengers going down the river are not allowed to remain on board through the night.

March 23d.

This morning we continued our journey at six o'clock. Immediately below Presburg the Danube divides into two arms, forming the fertile island of Schutt, which is about forty-six miles long and twenty- eight in breadth. Till we reach Gran the scenery is monotonous enough, but here it improves. Beautiful hills and several mountains surround the place, imparting a charm of variety to the landscape.

In the evening, at about seven o'clock, we arrived at Pesth. Unfortunately it was already quite dark. The magnificent houses, or rather palaces, skirting the left bank of the Danube, and the celebrated ancient fortress and town of Ofen on the right, form a splendid spectacle, and invite the traveller to a longer sojourn. As I had passed some days at Pesth several years before, I now only stayed there for one night.

As the traveller must change steamers here, it behoves him to keep a careful eye upon the luggage he has not delivered up at the office in Vienna.

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