Part 2

The Invalides--Elevation of different Buildings--Buonaparte desirous of Eclat--Champ de Mars--Place de Grenelle--Of the Plan of General Mallet and his Execution--Visit to the Museum of French Monuments--Infidelity of its Promoters--Of Colbert--Gardens of Tivoli--Great Numbers of Military Officers in Public Places--Of the Capture of Paris by the Allies--View of Paris from Montmartre--Vanity of the French--Their Love of Novelty--The Emperor Alexander's Entry into Paris--Of the Establishment of M. Delacroix--At the Tuilleries--Of the King--His Regard for England--France still unsettled--Advice of Galba to Piso--Curious Glass Stair Case--Of the French Theatres, and their Italian Opera--Number of Bureau d'Ecrivains. 61

CHAP. V.

Visit to the Royal Palaces--St. Cloud--St. Cyr--Malmaison--Versailles--Its Formality--Accuracy of Pope's Description of the Old Style of Decoration--Comparison of Windsor and Versailles--City of Versailles greatly reduced--Trianon--Sèvres--Porcelain Manufactory--Barrier of Passy--Of the Harvest--Castle of Vincennes--Few private Carriages at Paris--Great Numbers of Fiacres and Cabriolets--Attend at the Foreign Office for Passports to leave Paris--Arrive at Fontainebleau--Memorable for the Abdication of Buonaparte--Reflections on the Captivity and Character of the Pope--Reflections on Buonaparte--At Montereau; Battle near the Town--Sens--Auxerre--Description of the French Diligence--Dinners, &c. 79

CHAP. VI.

At Avalon--Public Promenades--Number of Beggars--Villages and Country Houses more numerous in Vine than in Corn Countries-Farming in this District--Land Tax and Customs of Descent--Dijon--A large and handsome City--Its Public Buildings--Company in the Diligence increased by the Arrival of two French Officers--Their Political Opinions--Advantage of the Diligence--Arrival at Dole--Battle near Auxonne--Genlis--Poligny--Vin d'Arbois--Woods but without Birds--Moray--English Breakfast--Resemblance to North Wales--Magnificent View of the Lake of Geneva--Excellent Roads made by Buonaparte--Visit to Ferney--Description of Geneva--View from its Cathedral--Its Manufactures--Population--Territory--Determination to visit the Alps; and not to go into Italy 100

CHAP. VII.

Departure for Chamouny--Bonneville--Valley of Cluse--Cascade d'Arpennas--St. Martin--Extravagant Bill--Proceed on Mules--Their astonishing Safety--River Arve--Pont de Chèvres--Cascade of Chede--Extravagance of English Travellers very prejudicial--Lake of Chede--Servoy and its Mines--Visited by the Empress Maria Louisa--Glaciers des Bossons--Definition of Glacier--Of the Valley and Village of Chamouny--Guides--Politics of the Savoyards--State of Taxation--Ascent of Montanvert--Magnificent and awful Spectacle of the Mer de Glace--Height of various Mountains, compared with Mont Blanc--Simile from Pope--Return to Chamouny--Larch and Fir mixed on these vast Mountains--Their Productions--The Valley continually threatened with Avalanches 119

CHAP. VIII.

Leave Chamouny--Delightful Situation of Valorsine--Festival there--Of the Savoyard Peasants--Anecdote from M. de Saussure--Country difficult to travel through--Trient--Magnificent View from the Fourcle--The French not so much disliked in the Valais as their Cruelty deserved--Castle of la Rathia--Martigny--Unsuccessful Attempt of two English Gentlemen to ascend Mont Blanc--Less adventurous, we did not ascend Mount St. Bernard--Cascade of the Pisse Vache--Number of Idiots and Goitrous Persons in the Valais--Opinion of Mr. Coxe on the Subject--Opinion of M. de Saussure--St. Maurice--Its strong Position--Roman Bridge and Antiquities--Passports demanded here--Different Colour of the Rhone here and at Geneva. 139

CHAP. IX.

Bex--Industry of the Inhabitants of this Country--Their Cottages and Wandering Lives--Salt Springs--Aigle--Growth of Corn--Villeneuve--Agitated State of the Lake--Labours of the Inhabitants often destroyed by the Fall of Rocks--Chillon--Clarens--Vevay--Magnificent View from its Church--Of General Ludlow--Lausanne--Its singular Situation--Its Antiquity--Its Cathedral--View from the Church-yard--Population and Manufactures--French Manners prevail here--Gibbon--Pope Felix V. a singular Character--Reformation--Morges--Festivity there--Rolle--Its Spa--Country Seats--Delightful Scene from the Garden of its Castle in the Evening--Nyon--Château de Pranqui--Joseph Buonaparte--Vines--Swiss Artillery--Copet--Anecdote of Md^e. de Staël--Versoi--Return to Geneva 156

CHAP. X.

On the Introduction of History into Tours--Early Government of Geneva--Reformation--Alliance with Berne and Zurich--A few Laws peculiar to Geneva--Theatre--Town Hall--Permission obtained to reside at Geneva--Lodging procured in Consequence--Fortifications of Geneva not devoid of Utility--Views from the Ramparts--Maintenance of the Allied Troops very expensive to Geneva--Regret of the Genevese at the Destruction of some ancient Avenues by them--Meet a Person who gives a melancholy Account of the State of Geneva under the French--State of Society--Fête de Navigation--Dress, &c.--Epigram by a Prince of Hesse--Rousseau--Voltaire--Raynal--Remarks of a Savoyard Peasant--The College of Geneva--The Library--Of Calvin--Water Works--Society of Arts--Corn Magazine--Churches, Service, &c. at Geneva. 184

CHAP. XI.

Excursion to the Perte du Rhone--Magnificent Spectacle which it affords--Rise of the Rhone--Hop Gardens--Malt Liquor badly made--Climate of Geneva--Of Switzerland in general--Opinion of Haller--Soil, Grain, and Population of Switzerland--Quantities of Cattle--Various Plants--Visit to a Watchmaker's Warehouse--Its elevated Situation--Great Ingenuity, but want of what in England would be thought good Taste--Circles of Genevese--Introduced to a French Gentleman who bad twice escaped the Guillotine--Walks and Rides--Junction of the Rhone and Arve--Coligny--Carrouge--St. Julian--Battle there--Inferiority of the Austrian Troops to the French--French Politics--Empress Maria Louisa--Lord Castlereagh at Geneva 193

CHAP. XII.

Regret at leaving Geneva--Lake of Joux--Coponex--Robbers--Lassera--Curious Separation of a Rivulet---Orbe--Face of the Country--Price of Land--Yverdun--Sea View--Spa--School--Anecdote of a Conductor--Game--Bridge of Serrier--Neufchâtel, said to resemble Naples--Description of its Territory--Anecdote respecting the Religion of Landeron--David Riri--Sketch of the History of Neufchâtel--Competitors for its Sovereignty--Lake of Bienne--Island of St. Pierre--Singular Government of Bienne--Great Change on passing the Pont de Thiel--Charge of Rapacity against the Swiss--Pleasant Travelling--Extensive View from Julemont--Agriculture--Arberg 205

CHAP. XIII.

Morat--famous for Kirschwasser--Monument commemorating the Defeat of the Burgundians removed by the French--Its Inscription--Seedorf--View of the Island of St. Pierre--Beauty of the distant View of Berne--Its Interior also handsome--Its Fortifications--Stags and Bears kept in the Trenches--Public Library--Botanic Garden--Chemists' and Bakers' Shops--Convicts chained in the Streets--Beautiful Public Walks--Government of Berne--Opinion of Pope--Excursions to Hofwyl and Hindelbanck--Extent of the Canton of Berne--Its Population, Productions, &c. &c--State of the Clergy--Departure from Berne--Village of Worb--Saw Mill--Bleach Greens--Care which the Swiss take of their Horses--Sumiswald--Little Wooden Inn--Zell--Castle of Haptalla--Irrigation--Beautiful Situation of Lucerne--Its Melancholy Interior--General Pfiffer's Model--Beautiful Lake--Mount Pilate and Rigi--Visit two Classic Spots--And the Small Canton--Gersau--Intolerance--Lake and Canton of Zug--Swiss Honey--Magnificent View of Zurich, described by Zimmerman--Considerations on the Difference between the Swiss Cantons, &c 222

CHAP. XIV.

Zurich--Its Interior not answerable to its distant Appearance--Population, Buildings, &c.--Dinner at the Table d'Hote--Excursion on the Lake--Country and Villages near Zurich--Winter there--Cascade of Lauffen--Its magnificent Effect--Cyder--Bad Vintage--Schaffhausen--Its Bridge--Population--Laws--Manufactures, &c.--View of Mount Banken--Chapsigre Cheese--Swiss Tea--Set out in the Diligence with a Doctor of Leipzig--His uncommon Love of Smoking--Civility, Dress, &c. of the Germans--Deutlingen--Pass the Danube--Taste of the Germans for Music, preferable to the political Arguments of the French--Passports--Subdivisions of Germany--Trade--Posts well conducted--Accident at Bahlingen--House of Hohenzollern 242

CHAP. XV.

Tubingen--Its University--Different from ours--Agree to post to Frankfort--Of German Posting, and Dinners--Feather-beds--Stoves--Stutgard--A handsome City--Palace, its Decorations--Industry of the Queen--Council Chamber--Royal Stables--Garrison composed handsome Troops--Palace at Ludwigsburg--Waggons and Traffic on the road--Heilbron--Escape from being overturned--Sinzheim--Cossaok arrives there--Heidelberg--Its Castle--Venerable in Ruins--The Inn--Rich Country--Quantity of Potatoes--Manheim--Regularly built, but much deserted--The Palace in Decay--Walks--Darmstadt--Unfurnished and ill situated--Palace--Handsome Gardens--Frankfort a Magnificent City--Inns--Opulence of its Merchants--Population--Jews--Gates and Fortifications--Cassino--Villas--Orchards--Hochst--Inscription-- Hochheim--Rhiagau Wines--Mayence--Its Strength--Handsome only at a Distance--Its Bridge--Cathedral--Population--Exportation of Corn--Large Cabbage 258

CHAP. XVI.

Embark on the Rhine--Political Rhapsodies of two Frenchmen--Beautiful Scenery--Gulph of Bingerlock--Blighted state of the Vines--Most distressing to the Inhabitants--Boppart--'God Save the King'--Bonfires--Size of Paris and London--St. Goar--Coblentz--Royal Saxon Guards--Ruins of Ehrenbreitstein--Andernach--The Devil's House--Lowdersdorf--Linz--Bonn--Illuminations, Balls, &c.--End of the Picturesque Scenery--Boat driven on Shore--Walk to Cologne--A vast and gloomy City--Simile of Dr. Johnson's--Few Country Houses on the Rhine--Rubens--His excellence as a Painter and his great Modesty--Juliers--Aix la Chapelle--Its Antiquity--Waters--Pleasant Situation--Population not equal to its Estent--Burscheid--Manufactures of Cloth, &c.--Cathedral--Sunday ill observed--Liege--A large and extremely dirty City--Booksellers--Cutlery--Distress of the Manufacturers--Thieves--Bad Money--Expeditions Public Carriage--Axiom of Rousseau--St. Tron--Chimes--Tirlemont, its much reduced Manufactures 278

CHAP. XVII.

Population of the Netherlands--Louvain--Its Public Buildings--University--Character of the Belgians--By some represented as the worst in Europe--That Statement probably overcharged--Extortion--John Bull at Paris--French Kitchens, &c.--Breweries--Roads--Taste in Gardening--Canals not an agreeable mode of Travelling--Heavy Taxes--Unsettled Political State--Vast Numbers of English at Brussels--Its Extent, Population and Appearance--The Park--Anecdote of Peter the Great--Town House--Churches--Collections of Paintings--Anecdote of Bassano--Hotels--Table d'Hote, like the Tables at Cheltenham--Expence of Living--Houses--Jurourin--Forest of Sogne--House of Correction compared with ours--Walk round the City--Fortified Towns--Sieges of Ostend, Valenciennes, Troy and Azotus--Malines--Considerations on its Decline--Its Silk--Population--Buildings--Manner of cutting the Trees near the Roads--Antwerp, its Importance--Docks--River--Riches of Belgium--Buildings at Antwerp--Accuracy of the Flemish Painters--Appearance of the Country--The Inns not equally decorated with those in Germany--Wooden Shoes 296

CHAP. XVIII.