Part 1

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A Revised And Illustrated Treatise On Grain Stacking

GIVING

Instructions how to Properly Stack Bound Grain so as to Preserve, in the best possible manner, for THRESHING and MARKET.

ILLUSTRATED

So as to Furnish a Comprehensive View of the Theoretical Parts

BY JOHN N. DeLAMATER, NORWALK, OHIO 1884.

Copyright 1884 by

JOHN N. DeLAMATER,

All Rights Reserved.

THE NORWALK CHRONICLE PRINT.

PREFACE.

So far as I am aware, this is an untried field of labor--a work which I have had under consideration for the last fifteen years; during which time the closest attention has been given to details of building, and careful observations made on results, when the stacks were being taken down. JOHN N. DeLAMATER.

TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING.

PLACING FOUNDATION.

If convenient, make a foundation of rails, by placing three rails about four and one-half feet apart and parallel, and then add half or two thirds the length of a rail to each, and cover by laying rails crossways, and finish by laying a large rail or post in the center lengthways.

This will form a foundation large enough for ten or twelve large loads. If rails, poles or boards cannot be had for an entire foundation, endeavor to get something to support the heads of a few center sheaves; for if sheaves are set on end to commence a stack, the middle is apt to settle too much.

COMMENCING TO BUILD.

On the rail foundation, lay around the center in the form of an ellipse, with the heads lapping well across the center rail; lap half and continue to lay towards the outside until foundation is covered. Now commence at the outside and lay a course around, neither laying out or drawing in, except to correct any little error that may occur in the elliptical form of the stack; complete the courses to the center, but don't fill the middle too full; if the outside is lower than the middle, lay a double course around outside; keep your stack flat--full as high at outside as center; build the first load straight up, neither laying out or drawing in, if the stack is to contain ten or twelve loads; if eight or nine, lay the last course out a little.

LAYING OUT.

If the stack is flat and as near an ellipse as the eye can judge, laying out and keeping the stack properly balanced will be very easy. Drive alternate loads on opposite sides of the stack; this will help to keep the stack properly balanced. If the eye detects a place that seems to be lower than the general level, it will be found that it was caused by laying out more there than at other points; to remedy this defect, draw in the next outside course at the low point, six, eight or ten inches, according to the depression. The greater the depression, the more it should be drawn in, and the next inside course at the low point should be shoved out nearly to the buts of the outside course, then continue to build as though nothing had happened. If a high place should be observed, the next outside course should be laid farther out, and inside course at this point drawn well in.

Glance frequently over the stack and see if the outside presents the appearance of an ellipse, and keep a sharp lookout for high and low spots, for they will throw the stack out of balance. If the middle is too full, the outside will slip out, and an undesirable job of propping will begin. Put in two-thirds of what is intended for the stack before commencing to draw in.

Drive so as to leave a little space between load and stack. Don't let a stack stand over night at this stage if it can be avoided, but put on the next two loads as quickly as possible, for the outside of the stack will settle rapidly.

FILLING THE MIDDLE.

Lay a tier of bundles through the central part half the length of the stack, alternating heads and buts, then lay a course around with the heads lapping across the middle tier; now another tier through the center, and two courses around it; then another tier at center and courses around, until the center is three or four feet higher than the outside, depending on size of the stack, and the last course laid laps half way from head to band on the outside course of the stack. It will be seen that while building the main part of the stack, the courses were laid from outside to center, and while filling the middle or putting in the stuffing, the courses are laid from center towards outside. Now commence outside, lay a course, heads out, half way from band to but on outside course; in small stacks omit last instruction; then turn buts out, lap half and lay to center; then lay a course around outside, neither laying out or drawing in.

Now comes a point that should not be overlooked: lay a course, buts out, lapping half way from heads to band on outside course; then lap half and lay to center.

The reason for laying the buts of second course half way from heads to band is to give the buts of the next outside course above a chance to rest firmly on the course below, leaving no unoccupied space; if the buts of second course were laid out to the band of outside course, then the next outside course above, being drawn in, would rest one-third of the way from band to but, on the buts of the course below, leaving a space for rain to drive in and wet the stack. Draw in outside course rapidly; lay buts of second course half way from head to band on outside course as long as stack top is large enough; keep middle well piled up.

A stack can be drawn in very rapidly, without danger of taking in water from a protracted rain, even if the outside of the stack grows green, no sheaf will be found wet above the band, and the middle of stack dry, for the buts of outside course will form a thatch roof to protect the stack.