Part 15

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH.

Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. presented me with tips of Indian arrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. and I walked out together, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches of the family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off to Church, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable audience rigged out as Mr. B. said in their best, the singing chiefly managed by one person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joined in by the congregation; the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but the sermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses, Original sin, morality, etc. worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worse than English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sunday when the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members having been examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30 years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents are made. Tea, etc., prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serve it out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whose daughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffected person. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see a humming bird. Mr. B. said they were often about some flowers near the pump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than a large bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH.

Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. engaged in writing letters till three o'clock. Mr. B. mentioned a great desire to assist his brother, said £100 for two or three years would enable him to do so; having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promised to send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate some peaches; offered a loan of £100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined. Agreed to meet the younger T. at the steamboat at six the following morning. Walked to F. D.'s warehouse and there found another letter from C. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. telling them of my return by the Hibernia on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with the D.'s. Mrs. D. not very well having been obliged to stop suckling her little one. J. D. charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH.

This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going to Poughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat, and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in reading the "Bolton Chronicle," July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death. Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carville another copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called upon Mr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton, woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going by the Hibernia; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berth in the Hibernia for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not so experienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roasted turkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a glass of water for 9d.; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's; took two glassfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop for two dollars; then to J. D. after tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylor where Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T. formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin to William R. Crook, like J. D., converted by his wife; so much for Unitarianism.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH.

Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to the steamer Erie, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightful morning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side and one behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata very perpendicular. Paid for passage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, but unfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeons leap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in the neighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got to Poughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. and Miss Mary at home in a pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera the last two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H.'s garden about four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along the Hudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. looking better than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the old country. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J., and Mrs. R. like all American wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals of the poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for the carriage three dollars.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH.

Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copied the lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went to the steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the scenery particularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12 observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in first but persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the Champlain, sailed 5 minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for passage and dinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point; one fellow devoured almost more butter at dinner than all Mr. Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats on the banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rocky and precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all the attendants excepting the driver of the hearse were people of colour; two of the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats; a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly with females.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH.

James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas who wished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely in drink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then the fish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by means of a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cart suspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and the front of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in the market of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred. Called at Mr. W. and received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who has been worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and he considered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on each side raise the frame on which the ship is floated. After dinner at the Franklin House, James Dean and I set off to H.; took a ride upon the circular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned by means of an inclined wooden conductor into which the balls are put by the person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautiful shady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautiful white sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautiful road and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a most charming view of New York, the Hudson, etc., etc. Could not get tea at either hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; met Webster, he had seen all our passengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamilton was about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother at Toronto.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH.

Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in Hebron Street, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rather smart and the other a kitchen, etc., etc. Bought another copy of Bryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor and agreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J. Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and a Miss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, no guns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw a mosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden lately owned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be the Presbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting through the street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times. Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; once between a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chat till half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs. D.'s absence, but was gone home before we returned.

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH.

Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves at all times to God. A very respectable looking man but short of enunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs. B.'s illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Went to the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolina not very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. all extempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributed by two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat and uniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea with young Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe, also many peaches. Mrs. C. invisible; the child about the same age as J. D.'s; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquent preacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth," a large proportion of females, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon Abraham Taylor, saw Miss T. and a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T. desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of the country, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible. Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more than two or three.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH.

Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours. Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What a difference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera." Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could not find Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor who gave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visited the Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a good collection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view of different cities, etc., in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianoforte maker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent me to attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought of going; apprehensive about Mrs. D. who cannot be persuaded to leave the house; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman and doctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to be mahogany with a small plate with name, etc., the coffin uncovered and borne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church of England, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eight carriages besides the hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D. made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholy affair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not like them so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up.

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH.

Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. at breakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Bliss is gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying another copy of "Boy's Letter Writer." Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D.'s warehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood, and J. and T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer. Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful; only 7 passengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable; a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D.'s servants two dollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also the passengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten. Paid for washing 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or 2-1/2d. each.

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH.

Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting up felt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part with it. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr. Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but did not keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think I would have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. The Americans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs. Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar; at the same time girding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that she could not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor at Poughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay away from Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should be considered stout.

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH.

Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so long for breakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed much; the morning warm and fine. Sick again. Took a little tea and dry toast with an egg, and found it more disposed to remain with me. Went on deck and was able to read a few of Bryant's "Poems." Took for lunch two peaches and three slices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. Dined pretty well upon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, two peaches and three slices of melon. Read some more B.'s "Poems," and also Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men." Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hours and 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our sovereign of twenty shillings.

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH.

Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably with pleasant dreams, is this occasioned by an empty stomach? Found we had made little way during the night; said to the second mate that we had got on very quickly, but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind had been in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything is managed much silenter than with the Britannia; a calm all day, the evening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. Finished reading Bryant's "Poems," some very good and highly descriptive. Had some conversation with several Irish women about returning home, afterwards insulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is discovered best by a good time piece.

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH.

Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when the stomach was empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, most of them against him without knowing much about him. The wind favourable since three o'clock, going 6 to 8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life of Jackson." Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. A good many petrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared out of the mist with a X upon it. Supposed to be either a French packet, or one to Philadelphia. Another vessel was seen this morning, another sail seen this evening about 5-1/2. Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be a good lunch.