Part 58

4. Mr. Lally, first assistant engineer, with the surveyor, was dispatched by the way of Bangor and Houlton to the same point of rendezvous on 18th June for the purpose of procuring boats and engaging laborers. Mr. H.B. Renwick, first assistant, with Mr. F. Smith, second assistant, were placed in charge of the chronometers and the necessary astronomic instruments, with instructions to observe on the meridian of the St. Croix at Houlton, and again at its intersection with the river St. John, for the purpose of ascertaining the rate taken by the chronometers when carried. These preliminary operations being successfully performed, the party was completely organized at the Grand Falls of the St. John on the 2d July. The energy and activity of the persons intrusted with these several duties was such that this date of complete preparation for the field duties was at least a week earlier than any calculation founded on the experience of former years rendered probable. The commissioner, advised of the negotiation in progress, had made his arrangements to reach the Grand Falls of the St. John on the 10th July. Being directed by the State Department to remain in New York, he sent orders by mail to the party to halt until further instructions.

5. These orders were not received, for the party, being fully organized, left the Grand Falls in three different detachments on the 4th, 6th, and 8th of July. The first detachment was composed of the surveyor, Mr. Bell, and an engineer having instructions to make a survey of Green River. The second was in charge of the assistant commissary, and was composed of three bateaux and fourteen pirogues, carrying stores and equipage for three months' service. The third was formed by the two first assistants, who, after performing the necessary astronomic observations at the Grand Falls and at two points on Green River, passed the surveying party and reached the portage between Green and Kedgwick rivers on the evening of the 13th July.

6. Green River has a fall and rapids near its junction with the St. John, which are passed by a portage of 1-1/2 miles. At 15 miles from its mouth is a second fall, which is passed by a portage of 82 yards. The stream for this distance and for 5 miles above the second fall is very rapid, its bed being in some reaches almost filled with rocks. For the next 10 miles it has deep still reaches, alternating with gravel beds, or else the river flows over ledges of rock. It is then interrupted by a third fall, requiring a portage of 176 yards. Thence to the second fork of the lakes it has the same character as for the last 10 miles, except that in some places it flows with a gentle current between low banks covered with alder. From the second fork of the lakes to the southern end of the Green River and Kedgwick portage the stream is very narrow and may be styled one continuous rapid. It is upon the whole the most difficult of navigation of all the streams running into the St. John from its northern side, and approaches in its character of a torrent to the waters on the St. Lawrence side of the highlands.

7. The portage from Green River to the South Branch of Kedgwick is 5-1/4 miles in length, and passes over the summits of two of the highest mountains in the ceded district, as well as several ridges. No vessel heavier than a birch canoe had ever before been carried over it. It therefore became necessary to clear it out before the bateaux and other heavy articles could be transported. Fifteen extra laborers, who had been engaged, with their pirogues, to carry some of the stores from the St. John, were retained to aid in making this portage, which swelled the number to twenty-seven. This large force was industriously engaged for eight days in carrying the stores and equipage over the portage, with the boats and canoes required for the future operations of the party. In the meantime the portage was surveyed, and a great number of observations were made, by which the latitude of the southern end of the portage and its difference in longitude from that of the meridian line were determined with great accuracy. In addition to the other labors of the party, a storehouse and observatory were erected.

8. The commissioner, learning that the party had left the Grand Falls before his letter could have reached that place, addressed fresh orders to the engineer in command. These were sent under cover to the British postmaster at Lake Temiscouata, who was requested to send them up Green River by an express. By these he was directed to stop the progress of the party and to proceed himself to the river Du Loup, there to await fresh instructions.

These orders did not arrive in time to prevent the party intended for the survey of the boundary from setting out. The engineer who had hitherto been in command returned to the St. John in pursuance of his original instructions and met the express on his way down Green River. The commissioner, being advised on the 13th July that the treaty had been signed, immediately dispatched a special messenger, who joined the chief of the division at the mouth of Green River on the 24th July. Measures were now taken for the recall and return of the party in the woods, and the whole division was assembled at the stationary camp at the north end of the portage on the 11th of August.

9. The party engaged in the survey of the remaining part of the boundary line had before the orders of recall reached them successfully accomplished that duty, having connected their survey with points in the survey of the previous year and thoroughly explored the culminating points of the valley of Rimouski. As had been anticipated from the level of the streams seen in 1841, this portion of the boundary claimed by the United States is more elevated than any other portion of that line between the Temiscouata portage and the northwest angle of Nova Scotia. This survey would therefore have added an important link to the argument of the United States had not the question been settled by treaty.

The party having received its orders of recall, all the articles of equipment which could not be carried in the boats which had been launched on the waters of the Restigouche were transported to the other end of the portage and embarked in pirogues sent up Green River for that purpose under the direction of the assistant commissary. The engineers then set out on their return by the Bell Kedgwick, the Grande Fourche, and the Southwest Branch of Restigouche. Ascending the latter stream, this party reached the Wagansis portage on the 21st August, and arrived at the Grand Falls on the 25th August.

The descent of the Bell Kedgwick was attended with great difficulties in consequence of the low state of the waters. Until its junction with Katawamkedgwick, to form the Grande Fourche of Restigouche, it was necessary to drag the boats by hand.

10. The detailed map of the surveys of this division, exhibiting the more important points whose altitudes were determined by the barometer, has already been lodged in the Department of State under date of 27th December.

Although the interest of this survey to the United States has now passed away, yet, as it is probable that many years may elapse before this country shall be again explored, and as it may still possess some interest to the nation into whose undisputed possession it has now fallen, it may not be improper to state the methods employed in the survey, for the purpose of showing to what degree of faith it is entitled.

The latitude and longitude of the mouth of Green River were furnished by Major Graham. The three portages on that river were surveyed by chain and compass. The courses on the navigable parts of the river were taken with a compass and the distances measured by a micrometrical telescope by Ertil, of Munich. This instrument, which had given satisfactory results on Metis and Mistigougeche in 1841, was still more accurate in the present survey. The latitude of the south end of the Kedgwick portage as given by the plot of Green River on the original projection differed no more than 5" from that given by numerous astronomic observations, an agreement so close that it might be almost considered as arising from happy accident. This survey therefore required but little correction, which was applied from the observations already cited and from those at two intermediate points.

The survey of Kedgwick portage was performed with chain and compass. In the woods between the Bell Kedgwick and the boundary and along the whole line of survey the same method was used, observations for time and latitude being also taken whenever the weather permitted. As the lines intersected those of the last year, it can now be stated that every part of the boundary claimed by the United States, from the height of land on the Temiscouata portage which divides the waters of the Green River of the St. Lawrence from those of the St. Francis to the northwest angle of Nova Scotia, as well as its connections with the St. Lawrence and Lake Temiscouata by the Temiscouata portage, and with the St. Lawrence a second time by the Metis and Mistigougeche, and with the St. John by Green River, has been actually surveyed. This result is one that neither the Department in its original instructions nor the commissioner on his first view of the country had contemplated. In stating this the commissioner feels it his duty to acknowledge his obligations to the untiring zeal and energy of the gentlemen who have acted under his orders, and especially to his two first assistants, who, entering upon duties of an entirely novel character, not only to themselves, but to the country, have in the course of the operations of two years accumulated under the most disadvantageous circumstances a stock of observations which for number and accuracy may compare with those taken with every convenience at hand by the most practiced astronomers.

In addition to the latitude of numerous points determined astronomically by the party engaged in surveying the line through the woods, the latitude of a point near the southern end of Green River and Kedgwick has been determined by eighty-six altitudes of sun and stars taken with a repeating and reflecting circle.

The whole number of altitudes of sun and stars taken during the expedition for time and latitude was 806.

III.

1. The operations of this division during the three seasons which it has been engaged in field duties have given a view of nearly every part of the country which has now been ceded to Great Britain to the north of the St. John River and the Temiscouata portage. During the year 1840 the commissioner proceeded in person by the wagansis of Grand River to the waters of the Bay of Chaleurs, ascended the Grande Fourche of the Restigouche to Lake Kedgwick, and then traversed the country from that lake to the Tuladi by a route never before explored. In 1841 the Rimouski and Metis were both ascended--the first to the limits of its navigation by canoes, the latter to the lake in which the waters of its western branch are first collected. From this lake lines of survey repeatedly crossing the boundary claimed by the United States were extended to a great distance in both directions. The operations of the year were closed by a survey of so much of the boundary as incloses the basin of Lake Temiscouata and intersects so frequently the great portage. These latter surveys covered in some degree the explorations of one of the parties in 1840, which, therefore, are not quoted as a part of the work of that year. In 1842 the valley of Green River was explored, that stream was carefully surveyed, and the remainder of the boundary line dividing the sources of Rimouski from those of Green River and the eastern branches of Tuladi run out with chain and compass.

In these surveys and explorations the character of the country, its soil, climate, and natural productions, have been thoroughly examined, and may be stated with full confidence in the accuracy of the facts.

2. Beginning on the southern side of the ceded territory, the left bank of the St. John is for a few miles above the Grand Falls uncultivated and apparently barren. Thence to the confluence of the Madawaska it presents a continued settlement upon land of good quality, producing large crops of potatoes and grass. It also yields wheat, oats, and barley, but the crops are neither abundant nor certain. The Madawaska River presents but few attempts at settlement on either of its banks. Its left bank is represented to be generally barren, but some good land is said to exist on its southwestern side. The shores of Lake Temiscouata are either rocky or composed of a light, gravelly soil, which is so poor that it will not repay the labor of cultivation, even when newly cleared, without the aid of manure. Some tolerable meadows are found, which are at the moment highly valued in consequence of a demand for forage by the British troops. The valley of Green River has in some places upon its banks intervals of level alluvium which might be improved as meadows, and it has been represented as being in general fertile. A close examination has not confirmed this impression.

Mr. Lally reports that--

"In the valley of Green River there are some tracts of land capable of cultivation, but the greater portion of it is a hard, rocky soil, covered with a growth of poplar and trees of that description. Some of the most desirable spots for farms had been formerly taken up by settlers from the Madawaska settlement, but although the land is as good as that on the river St. John, they were obliged to abandon their clearings on account of the early frosts and the black flies. It can hardly be conceived that the latter would be a sufficient cause for leaving valuable land to waste, but such is the fact, as I have been informed by some of those who made the attempt to settle, and I can well believe it from my own experience there."

3. The explorations of 1840, in which the ground lying between the western sources of Green River and Squattuck, a branch of Tuladi, was traversed, showed a considerable extent of better land than any other in the ceded territory. The commissioner traveled for a part of two days along a table-land of no great elevation, covered with rock, maple, and a thick undergrowth of moosewood, both said to be signs of good soil; of this there may be from seven to ten thousand acres, and it is a far larger body of tillable land than is to be found in any other part of the country north of the settlements on the St. John.

4. By far the greater portion of the territory in question is composed of the highlands in which the streams that flow to the St. Lawrence and the Atlantic take their rise. With but three exceptions no part of this is less than 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is a perfect labyrinth of small lakes, cedar and alder swamps, and ridges covered with a thick but small growth of fir and spruce, or, more rarely, of birch. No portion of it appears to be fit for tillage.

5. In respect to timber, it was found that the pine, the only tree considered of any value, ceased to grow in rising from the St. Lawrence at less than 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. Only one extensive tract of pine was seen by any of the parties; this lies around the sources of the St. Francis, and may cover three or four thousand acres. This river, however, discharges itself from Lake St. Francis through a bed of bowlders, and is sometimes wholly lost to the view. This tract, therefore, although repeatedly examined by the proprietors of sawmills on the St. Lawrence and the St. John, has been hitherto found inaccessible. The pine timber on the seigniory of Temiscouata has been in a great degree cut off or burnt by fires in the woods. There is still some timber on the waters of Squattuck, but it has been diminished by two or three years of active lumbering, while that around Tuladi, if it were ever abundant, has disappeared. It would, however, appear from report that on the waters of the North Branch of Restigouche to the eastward of the exploring meridian there is some valuable timber. This is the only portion of the district which has not been explored.

6. As to the valley of Green River, the engineer who has already been quoted reports as follows:

"This river has had the reputation of having on it large quantities of pine timber, but as far as I have been able to judge it is small and rather sparsely scattered along the slopes of the ridges. Above the third falls of the river, which are rather more than 30 miles from its mouth, there is scarcely any to be seen. Some of the Madawaska settlers, who have explored nearly every tributary of the river, report that there is good timber on some of them. Judging from the language that they used in relation to some that I saw myself, I infer that what they call good would not be so considered by the lumbermen of the Penobscot. The people who lumber in this vicinity do it on a small scale when compared with the operators in Maine. They rarely use more than two horses to draw their lumber to the stream, so that a tract which would not afford more than a month's work to an extensive operator would keep one of these people employed for years."

7. As respects climate, the country would be considered unfit for habitation by those accustomed to the climates even of the southern parts of Maine and of New Hampshire. Frosts continue on the St. John until late in May, and set in early in September. In 1840 ice was found on the Grand River on the 12th of that month, and snow fell in the first week of October on Lake Temiscouata. In the highland region during the last week of July, although the thermometer rose above 80°, and was once above 90°, white frost was formed every clear night. Upon the whole, therefore, it may be concluded that there is little in this country calculated to attract either settlers or speculators in lumber. The former were driven to it under circumstances of peculiar hardship and of almost paramount necessity. Their industry and perseverance under adverse circumstances is remarkable, but they would have been hardly able to overcome them had not the very question of the disputed boundary led to an expenditure of considerable money among them.

VETO MESSAGE.